Origin of HAZ:
The Four Peaks, more specifically Brown's Peak and
the uncontrollable desire to reach the summit! On a warm day in mid February 1997 my
hiking adventures began. Looking back I can hardly imagine a more enjoyable
experience. Having lived in the Valley of the Sun for over ten years, one day I just
decided I was going to take a closer look at those mountains jutting up to the east.
Glad I did. To this day even the mention of the Four Peaks gets me all excited.
So I decided to go to the library and see what I
could find out about these mountains to the east of the valley. I checked out all the
maps and easily figured out what I was looking at was called the Four Peaks. Funny
because I'd heard the name at least a dozen times in the past but it never really set
in. Now that I think about it I recall several winters when folks would point over
to the east from the valley and mention the snow covered peaks. Now I did find it
interesting that a guy could be standing in the middle of the desert looking over
at snow on a mountain. So my natural thought was those mountains must be a long ways
away, like maybe the border of New Mexico. Boy was I wrong. The Four Peaks are
the southern terminus of the Mazatzal Mountains. This section is an extreme rise of
jagged rock. Starting at 2,000 feet on the desert floor and jutting up to 7,657 feet at
the very top of Brown's peak which is the northern most peak.
Heading out in my trusty Ford Escort
I attempt to
reach Lone Pine Saddle. This is the parking area for the Brown's Peak trail #133,
Four Peaks Trail #130 and eventually Amethyst Trail #253. The unpaved forest
road #143 is the only logical route up to the saddle from the west side of the mountain.
This forest road is easily identified from State Highway 87 just 21 miles north of
Mesa. Now my first attempt proved I was not mentally prepared for the over twenty
mile stretch up to the saddle. The road is actually in very good shape for such a
remote area. The drive would be more reassuring in a 4WD truck. After a few
trips on this road I have really come to appreciate the beauty of the desert. Okay I
never made it all the way up on this route until about a year later. An easier route
is to go all the way around to the Roosevelt lake side. El Oso Road is the #143
equivalent on the east side of the mountain. This is about half the distance to the
saddle although much steeper. The road is in my opinion very passable to any decent
running car. It takes about thirty minutes to reach the saddle on this forest
road. I usually pass a few grazing cows and an occasional horseman. Along the
way you quickly pass through the various vegetation zones as if you were going up an
elevator in a science project. Nice views of Roosevelt lake open up at several
points along the way. Upon reaching the Mazatzal divide turn right
(south) and follow the inline forest road #648 to the end which is Lone Pine Saddle. The
temperature here in mid day will be about ten degrees cooler from the desert floor
below. I would not recommend the west side 20 mile stretch of forest road #143 to a
regular car. I have made it up and down several times, but... There are a few
streams to cross when water is present and an extreme rocky section just after Mud Springs
that'll rattle your mind at first.
Along the way
up you will drive in and out of the scorched areas caused by the Lone fire in late April
of 1996. The Lone fire is the result of a careless individual dropping a cigarette
at the trailhead of Pigeon Springs Trail #134. Depressing to think about, yet nature
is making a remarkable comeback.
Many books describe the Four Peaks area as a sky
island. I classify this hike as a three part experience. The first being the
drive up to the trailhead. Most folks would be satisfied with the adventure of
getting to the trailhead. Second comes the hike from trailhead to Brown's Saddle.
Third is the nail biting adventure up the
chute topping out on Browns Peak!
The combination of all three will prove to be an exhausting day on your first few
Begin the hike at the well marked trailhead.
You are looking for Browns trail #133. Beginning as a moderate incline numerous
water bars cross the well defined path. The forest is lush and untouched by the Lone
fire in the beginning. After a few switchbacks you will pass Snoopy's friend
. I doubt this is the official name of the rock
but you will see the resemblance. Shortly after the green forest gives way to the
scorched burn areas.
along the trail and the eastern views of the Tonto Basin and Roosevelt Lake open up.
The photo above was taken one year after the fire. Ground cover was just beginning
to surface. Two years after the fire small bushes and thicker ground cover is
taking over. It will take twenty years for the area to get back to the beautiful
forest of trees seen before the fire. Eventually the trail hooks up with the
Amethyst Trail #253. The intersection is nothing to be concerned with, you
will most likely not even know as Browns Trail gives way to the Amethyst Trail.
Follow the Amethyst Trail for a short distance up to Browns Saddle. Take a moment at
the saddle to view the Valley of the Sun to the west. Smog usually fills the valley
making it hard to see many landmarks. On a clear day you can see Camelback, Squaw
Peak, and other small landmarks of the valley. As seen in the photo below even on a
smoggy day the view of the Superstition Wilderness is awesome. Not many folks get to
see the Superstitions from this angle. The ripples of the desert floor are
breathtaking! Even on the calmest day of the year you will feel a breeze on
the saddle. This is a good turn around point for your first attempt.
From Brown's Saddle you can make it to the top of Brown's Peak which is the highest of the
four peaks. The trail heads up from the saddle. If you are traversing the
western face of the peaks you have taken the wrong trail which is the continuation of
Amethyst Trail to the amethyst mine on private property. Hiking up the scrambling
undefined trail to Brown's Peak is confusing at first. After a few attempts you will
figure it out. You will hike over boulders. Depending on the route followed
you may have to squeeze through a narrow gap, this is the route I prefer. Just after
the squeeze a ravine opens up. The ravine is steep. Loose rocks make the hike
difficult and dangerous. Be careful. Looking up the ravine is the scree chute
you are looking to scale to the peak. It appears as if Brown's Peak is right at the
top. It is actually a bit further, just one more jag of trail after the false
peak. Let's not get excited just yet, you still have to make it up this
chute. Looking at the chute from here it seems steep and it is. Be careful, do
not attempt this unless you are with a friend and out of your mind!
Seriously this is dangerous. I would highly recommend attempting this section only
in warm weather. On January 16th 1998 I had the worse experience in Arizona heading up
this crevasse. There were three foot snow drifts on top of an inch of solid
ice. If you enjoy ice slides this is the closest you will find near the
valley. Okay you have decided to make the ascent. Move slowly. Be sure you only go up into places you feel comfortable coming down. Remember it's easier getting up than coming back down.
On to the most difficult section. There is a small wall you must scale. Continue on up to a tiny saddle. There is more evidence of a trail from here on. You shouldn't have any problems finding your way over the last series of boulders to the top. June through September you will be greeted by butterflies and ladybugs! A nice change from the scorpions and tarantulas below. This is it! You are standing on the throne of the wilderness. I usually call my dad from the peak as the cell phone signals are strong up here. If you are equipped with a good knowledge of your surrounding area this is the view you have been waiting for your whole life! You can see as far north as the San Francisco Peaks on an a very clear day. Humphrey's is the highest peak in Arizona but I would recommend Brown's Peak any day! - Jan 15 1998 joe bartelsTonto FS Reports