Mad Cow 5.10c (?!)
Danny and I were supposed to do one of the hardest multi-pitch climbs on Sheepshead. We didn't realize it was also the hardest to find!
We hiked up there and looked at the routes for about an hour, there are many new routes up there not listed in the guide. We were pretty sure we had found Stampede; a hard slabby, fully bolted, 5.10d. We were wrong! Apparently we were on its neighbor, a mixed route which means it's trad and sport. Part way up the climb we really struggled, the 5.10d slab was brutal! It was balancey, with no hand holds, and paper thin feet that crumbled as you stepped on it!
Then, around pitch #4 we realized that this wasn't a mixed route, the entire pitch had ONLY 2 bolts!
When I was climbing it wasn't a big problem because I was following but when Danny lead the pitch, it was a significant issue. He hadn't brought his rack! (life lesson ALWAYS bring a few pieces just in case.) He used a piece of cordelette to sling a chicken-head hold along the way. We were lucky it was easy climbing or we may have had to rappel off the route there. We finished the climb, on a pitch that was a tough new sport route.(SO HARD!5.11+ slab)
The views at the top were amazing as usual. We finished our Halloween by rejoining the group of climbers. Liz, Brad and I headed in to Tombstone in search of pizza and ended up finding one in a round about way! (crashing a Halloween party)