First trip here- it was amazing! We did the little Sugarloaf mountain hike the first evening, camped, and caught the 8:30 (free!) hiker's shuttle to the top. Although the campground was filled up, there weren't too many people with us on this weekday trip.
We did the "long" loop, and were fairly alone on the trail most of the time. It was really rewarding. We did hear some sort of "meow" a few times on the mushroom rock segment. The short spur trail to inspiration point is neat, and at least is flat after the climb up mushroom rock trail. Recommended because you get to look down on the spires.
The Big Balanced Rock mesa was the neatest part in my opinion. Lunch in the Heart of Rocks and back down Sarah Deming. Then down down down Rhyolite canyon to the Visitor Center. I was impressed that my mother (who is just a little younger than the rock formations themselves-- just kidding mom ) made it down just fine.
Combined this trip with a trip to Kartchner Caverns on Friday. Awesome.