Got to the TH at 7:30, just after sunrise and well before the Hikers' Express shuttle. Snow on the Rim; I used instep crampons as far as Ooh-Aah Point and a little "brown ice" further down. So cold and still at the top, nad then suddenly so warm! I couldn't figure out why the guy behind me took so long to overtake me - then I realized he was doing the same thing I was: stopping to take a picture every ten feet. Unfortunately my camera was dying and the vast majority came out out-of-focus.
Saw two other people going down S. Kaibab (more coming up), and no-one at all on the Tonto leg. Even the Bright Angel was relatively unpopulated. At Three Mile Resthouse I went back to crampons, and at One and a Half mile had all my layers back on. Welcome back to winter!