Should be regular FR access, at least up to Jacob Lake. Not sure about north of there, but the official website should have good info on vehicle access.
As far as canyon views, I don't think there will be any views on Passage 39. It just heads north, away from the rim. The southern end is at N Kaibab TH, so you'll have good views nearby. But not on the trail itself. Passage 40 has some excellent views along the East Rim of the Kaibab Plateau.
Probably doesn't matter much which direction you go, but if you haven't seen the canyon, it'll probably be better to go N to S so you have payoff at the end of the trail.