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I thinking about getting a circular polarizing filter for my Canon 18-55mm kit lens...suggestions? I'm looking at maybe $100 max, but I'd like to keep it under $80.

:GB:

hippiepunkpirate wrote:

joe bartels wrote:Personally I feel sentence 4 is a combined deal

Que?

#4 was The photographer creates a good photo, not the camera.
Perhaps I'm alone on this but I think you need both to create a good photo. About a 70% photographer to a 30% Camera cut IMO...

joe bartels wrote:Perhaps I'm alone on this but I think you need both to create a good photo. About a 70% photographer to a 30% Camera cut IMO...

Ah....you are not alone, I share a similar opinion. However, knowledge of the equipment is a must to bridge the gap between the human and the object.

Definitely and where I lack in situations. No matter how much I read on moon f11 I end up on some other tangent. Though with a hundred plus shots I'd get one or two outta the bunch...lol

I'm still at the tip of the iceberg in the realm of camera knowledge, but I've I'm proud of the strides I've taken over the last few months.

hippiepunkpirate wrote:I'm proud of the strides I've taken over the last few months.

Birthday money??? Did I miss the party? Happy birthday, hpp!

hippiepunkpirate wrote:I'm gonna order one of these bad boys for sure: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Canon+-+Rem ... &cp=1&lp=1

Before you do that, take a look at these guys: http://www.etech.com/item--X1302

Phottix is a solid brand, and wireless is better than wired

azpride wrote:
Before you do that, take a look at these guys: http://www.etech.com/item--X1302

Phottix is a solid brand, and wireless is better than wired

I may have to spring for it

Gotta say I'm a fan of having a c-pol handy. It's limited as far as uses, but it's one of those 'rather have and not need' things I think. It does wonders for enhancing shots that involve a lot of foliage, bodies of water, glass, skies, etc. If i were starting over though I would probably get a GND filter instead/in addition to the circular polarizer. A c-pol isn't nearly as useful for the all-to-common shots in AZ where you have a bright sky and a substantially darker foreground landscape. Ahh to have the spare cash for a nice GND... =)

I'll 2nd everyone's take on the filter choices for the kit lens. They can get really pricey, so save the cash for a higher end filter for when you start upgrading the lenses too.

I'm assuming you're shooting with one of the Rebel series models (it's been a while since I shot mine, so my memory may be a bit off) but it should at least have a 10 second self timer, if not a 2 second option as well. In any case, that, plus a tripod = a great substitute, in my opinion, for a remote trigger of any type. Of course, the cost for a XXXd body remote is pretty small thanks to the built-in IR receiver for it, so if you can find a good deal, it may be worth it to ya. I personally like the 10 second timer because it also forces me to not touch any of the rig for a period of time, thus helping to make sure any lingering vibrations from fondling the gear have a chance to dissipate.

Thoreau wrote:Gotta say I'm a fan of having a c-pol handy. It's limited as far as uses, but it's one of those 'rather have and not need' things I think. It does wonders for enhancing shots that involve a lot of foliage, bodies of water, glass, skies, etc. If i were starting over though I would probably get a GND filter instead/in addition to the circular polarizer. A c-pol isn't nearly as useful for the all-to-common shots in AZ where you have a bright sky and a substantially darker foreground landscape. Ahh to have the spare cash for a nice GND... =)

I'll 2nd everyone's take on the filter choices for the kit lens. They can get really pricey, so save the cash for a higher end filter for when you start upgrading the lenses too.

I'm assuming you're shooting with one of the Rebel series models (it's been a while since I shot mine, so my memory may be a bit off) but it should at least have a 10 second self timer, if not a 2 second option as well. In any case, that, plus a tripod = a great substitute, in my opinion, for a remote trigger of any type. Of course, the cost for a XXXd body remote is pretty small thanks to the built-in IR receiver for it, so if you can find a good deal, it may be worth it to ya. I personally like the 10 second timer because it also forces me to not touch any of the rig for a period of time, thus helping to make sure any lingering vibrations from fondling the gear have a chance to dissipate.

I think HPP is getting pretty good at the blends, therefore eliminating the need for pesky grads Many people still use them, though, and sometimes I wish I had a couple good ones in my bag when I find a shot with a blend that I know will be difficult. Still not worth the money to me...

As far as the remote, I know I bought mine for bulb exposures. Only used it a couple times, but it's a good thing to have, just in case.

The only filter I'd really carry hiking would be a circ pol. However I found myself using it less and less over the years. While the list of positives seems extensive it still increases shadows. When it comes to Photoshop it's more forgiving reducing minor highlights than trying to increase any darkened value that doesn't exist.

Regardless of what camera you have it's still you and the light.

Filters just aren't a solution. They're for minimal instances. For years computers kept getting faster and faster. Then they realized there's more to it than speed. So they expanded to other aspects like cache, bus speed, memory layers and whatnot. Same is true for cameras, we just haven't seen the full potential yet. Someday there will be a consumer priced camera that automatically takes fifty multi stopped images at once and blends them for you with one click. This won't put photographers out of business as it can only give you results equal to the situation. The majority still won't be getting up 2 hours before daybreak to get into position or rushing out when storms approach. Fewer yet will use a tripod.

At any rate, be careful putting any filter on a canon. It's gonna shatter when you fire it.

Just ordered the Phottix wireless remote Now I can try out the star trails thing

The only thing about taking star trail photos is that depending on your camera you may need to take a dark frame with it to subtract out the noise that all cameras have. Some of these are hot pixels in your camera and sometimes it is a hot corner where the chip is heating up. To get a good star trail about 10 minutes is good. I think anything over 2 or more seconds it is a good idea to do a dark frame. Would have to check with the husband cause he is the astrophotographer. He uses a Rebel XTI for some of his astrophotos that has been modified since the normal CCD chip has a filter over it that limits the colors especially the reds....

Dschur wrote:The only thing about taking star trail photos is that depending on your camera you may need to take a dark frame with it to subtract out the noise that all cameras have. Some of these are hot pixels in your camera and sometimes it is a hot corner where the chip is heating up. To get a good star trail about 10 minutes is good. I think anything over 2 or more seconds it is a good idea to do a dark frame. Would have to check with the husband cause he is the astrophotographer.

Didn't know about that...is there any post-processing involved beyond simply taking a dark frame beforehand?

I don't know a whole lot about star trails, but I've heard that it's best to blend several shorter exposures. One ten minute exposure will produce a super grainy image.

I've read that for longer exposures, the camera has a built in function that deletes the noise after the exposure finishes, but it takes an equal amount of time to what the exposure was. For example, if your exposure is 10 minutes, the camera will spend another 10 minutes processing out the noise. Don't know if that's how it really works though.

HPP: Look for a feature on your camera called long-exposure noise reduction.

nonot wrote:HPP: Look for a feature on your camera called long-exposure noise reduction.

Will do. I get lazy about picking up the instruction manual.

When you are doing a star trail you don't want to stop it inbetween or you get a dotted line instead of a solid one of the stars.And yes a shorter picture stacked is better for lots of night photography. A dark frame needs to be taken each time you do an exposure. So if you take one ten minute shot then take another ten minute dark frame right after or before. The reason is as the temp changes so does the noise on the camera and yes there is a function on the camera but that only does so much it doesn't help with the hot spot on the chip for example. You best shots would be at a cool ambient temperature. (On my husbands special CCD for astrophotography he actually runs ice water thru the camera to take pictures in the summer time).