I've had the Zion Traverse on my bucket list for a while now, and I was happy to finally check it off this weekend. To summarize, although it was really cool to get into the Zion backcountry and see new parts of the park (some of which were truly incredible), I think I was expecting more of a Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim experience and Zion just doesn't hold a candle to the Grand Canyon. I was also dealing with really bad ankle pain (probably tendinitis) the entire day, which only got worse with each step. My friend Ellie had a rough day, as well, and a few puking breaks and long stretches of walking made our expected ~11 hour day far out of reach.
The Traverse links several trails, listed below. Much of the day is already blending together, so I'll try to give a brief description of each section. Also, for all you trolls out there, I am well aware that the mileage listed below adds up to 47.3 and I called this run 48 miles. My watch said 48.5 and Ellie's was well over 50. So spare me the arithmetic lesson; I'm calling it 48.
East Rim to Weeping Rock TH (9.8 miles) - We started our day just after 5:30 am AZ time (6:30 Utah time). It was a crisp 36 degrees at the start; perfect running weather, in my opinion. The first section of the trail steadily gains elevation through the Checkerboard Mesa part of the park with several nice viewpoints of various canyons along the way. After climbing several hundred feet, we dropped down about 2,000 into Echo Canyon. I've been to the Echo Canyon area before and it's a beautiful part of the park. We only saw a couple people during our first several miles, but the crowds started to thicken as we reached Weeping Rock TH.
Main Canyon Road from Weeping Rock to Grotto TH (1.2 miles) - Once at Weeping Rock, there's a mile road run to the Grotto TH. This was one of the most painful parts of the day on my ankle (pavement is so unforgiving), but the views were gorgeous and we ran it quick. The Grotto TH is where the Angel's Landing hike begins; we were mentally prepared to battle the crowds, but that didn't make it any more pleasant.
West Rim Trail (14.2 miles) - There's a steep climb up to the Angel's Landing turn-off (~3,000 ft) and it's all pavement. My ankle felt a million times better going uphill rather than down, so I had no complaints. Ellie isn't a fan of switchbacks like I am, so I scurried up this section pretty fast and waited at the top away from the crowds. We opted to not do Angel's Landing (I've done it twice and Ellie wasn't enthused by the crowds), and continued on the West Rim Trail. A few minutes past the Angel's Landing turn-off, we were again able to enjoy the solitude of the canyon. The West Rim trail has tons of interesting rock formations and wave-like striations. I had run a good chunk of this trail a couple years ago so I was honestly a little bored during this section (or have I just been too spoiled by the canyon recently??).
Wildcat Canyon Trail (4.7 miles) - I'll be honest; this is the part of the day where my memory gets a little foggy. I believe it was the last few miles of the West Rim trail that I found to be the least scenic, but it might have been the Wildcat Canyon trail... In any event, there was a pretty long stretch in the middle of the Traverse that was barren, muddy, and exposed, creating more of a mental challenge than anything. Another tricky/time-consuming thing about this run compared to R2R2R is finding reliable water sources. There were a few creeks that were dried up, but we were able to filter water from a spring right off the side of the trail around mile 25. A few minutes later, I tripped and came down so hard on my ankle that I thought I broke it, making the next couple hours extra miserable.
Connector Trail (3.9 miles) - The Connector Trail goes through a nice forested area with smooth dirt trails. Nothing to write home about but very runnable.
Hop Valley Trail (6.6 miles) - This is where the trail finally started to get beautiful again! We ran through open meadows with red canyon walls on either side of us, and a small creek running alongside. The trail crosses the creek several times, providing ample opportunities to wet your hat/Buff and cool down. This part of the run was so serene; didn't see another soul for a dozen or more miles. This was probably my favorite part of the run (other than finishing).
La Verkin Creek Trail to Lee Pass (6.9 miles) - When we dropped into Kolob Canyon and saw the sign stating 6.5 miles to Lee Pass, I thought I was going to cry tears of joy! Kolob Canyon is magical, rivaling the Hop Valley trail in its beauty. There were 9 or so campsites along this last stretch, each one more idyllic than the last. You gain about 1,000 ft in elevation over this last section, but I didn't notice it at all. I actually stopped and checked Route Scout at one point because I was convinced we weren't gaining enough elevation. I guess after 40+ miles of running up and down hills, 1,000 ft is cake. I reached the trail head right around sunset, and Ellie followed about 45-60 minutes later, just as the final light was leaving the sky.
FINAL THOUGHTS: Injury aside, I felt really good on this run and enjoyed the day, overall. Anything that challenges me mentally and physically is time well-spent, and there were a few very special parts of this trail that I won't forget any time soon. I also want to get back out to the Kolob Canyon/La Verkin Creek side of the park for a backpack at some point; I'm sure there's much more to explore.