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River Trail - Grand Canyon - 26 members in 114 triplogs have rated this an average 4 ( 1 to 5 best )
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May 16 2021
survivordude
avatar

 Routes 61
 Photos 975
 Triplogs 208

40 male
 Joined Aug 19 2009
 The Basin
Grand Canyon Corridor LoopNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar May 16 2021
survivordude
Hiking19.50 Miles 4,975 AEG
Hiking19.50 Miles   10 Hrs   3 Mns   2.77 mph
4,975 ft AEG   3 Hrs    Break
 
Solo dolo down SK, 2.5 hours to the river. Swim at the beach for an hour. The canyon runner population has exploded. I love the river trail, its so easy going. Hot slog up to IG for about an hour break/siesta. Lots of wildlife. About 3 hours up to the top. Good to see all the youth out enjoying the outdoors. Quads were toast at the Coconino. Definitely slower than my last time up BA, but I did go to the river this time and it was a longer hike, so there's that. I enjoyed taking my time with this one.
Named place
Named place
Grand Canyon National Park
_____________________
“There is nothing outside the thought of the immediate moment.”
Oct 24 2020
kyleGChiker
avatar

 Guides 1
 Routes 23
 Photos 351
 Triplogs 30

male
 Joined May 28 2019
 Phoenix, AZ
Rim to RimNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar Oct 24 2020
kyleGChiker
Hiking44.50 Miles 11,000 AEG
Hiking44.50 Miles   49 Hrs   56 Mns   1.19 mph
11,000 ft AEG   12 Hrs   33 Mns Break45 LBS Pack
 
no photosets
1st trip
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout Popup | MapDEX
After previously backpacking every mile of trails/routes on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, I decided it was time to complete Rim to Rim! :y: I got a permit for my last choice weekend, October 24-26, and backpacked across the North Kaibab/Bright Angel route.

Along for the trip were my parents, two siblings, and my brother's girlfriend (a total of six people). For some strange reason, NPS gave us a permit for 7 people, stating in an email that we had miscalculated the total fee for the permit, and they would be charging us for 7 people. Even after calling to make sure they knew we only had 6 people, they refused to update the permit or give a refund for the 7th person that didn't go along on the trip! Oh well...I guess it all worked out fine because we got to camp at the nice group sites. :lol:

We found a friend on Facebook (lives in Page) who was willing to be our shuttle driver from South to North since the normal shuttles aren't running this year. After being dropped off, and after enjoying our sandwiches on the rim before the hike, we realized we forgot our pot and fuel at home! :o Apparently, somewhere along the way, there was a miscommunication in who was taking what. :shaggy: Sure enough, when we got home, there was our 4-liter pot and 16 oz. of fuel, sitting right next to the fish bowl! ](*,) Well, after talking through the options, we decided that since we were on corridor trails, we would be able to find sufficient kind hikers from whom we could buy/bribe/borrow some fuel. A kind man on the rim overheard our plight and gave us his stainless steel doggy bowl to use as a makeshift pot. It only held 2.5 cups, but we were grateful nonetheless. To finish out this story, at Cottonwood campground, I finally found someone who had some extra fuel, so I borrowed their canister for our dinner (they refused to accept payment). Our breakfast was cold-soaked oatmeal, which rehydrated quite well overnight. On the trail the next day, we met some backpackers who were from Chicago and had some extra fuel. They couldn't take it with them on the plane anyway, so they were happy to give it to us. We're thankful for the kindness of our fellow backpackers and hope we have a chance to help someone out similarly some day. :)

The North Kaibab trail itself is a very nice trail, quite smooth and gradual. The 5,000+ feet of descent really seems to go by quite quickly, and in no time, we were at Cottonwood campground! We enjoyed the amazing stargazing both in the evening, and early the next morning before the sun rose. In addition to identifying numerous stars and constellations, we also spotted Saturn and Jupiter. I tried my hand at some night sky photography, and was quite pleased with the results (I'm writing this at work while I wait for a test to run...will probably have a photoset uploaded sometime late this evening or tomorrow afternoon for you all to enjoy). The next day was a long day from Cottonwood to Indian Gardens, and especially being in a group of six, we move pretty slowly (due to the nature of group dynamics, not any particular person). We woke up at 4:45, and got out of shortly after first light. About half-way from Cottonwood to Phantom Ranch, we came across a group of 7 bighorn sheep drinking water from Bright Angel Creek. Apparently, they decided to move on, and we watched in amazement as they climbed over 200 ft high overhead on very steep (almost vertical) terrain. Within minutes, they had ascended easily 200 ft. but we continued watching for another half hour or so, as they were so interesting to watch. Eventually they got beyond the ridgeline and we couldn't see them any longer. It was definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience!

We spent a bit of time at the beach along the Colorado River before climbing up the Bright Angel trail. The highlight there was watching 2 kayaks, 3 rafts, and a dory boat run the small rapids there (the dory looked like a replica of the Bass boat at Bass beach in the Western Grand Canyon).

That night, at Indian Gardens, the temperatures dropped substantially and the wind was very strong. Forecasts posted at Phantom Ranch indicated gusts around 25 mph, and I felt like at Indian Gardens, they were even stronger. We secured our tents with several guy lines to large rocks, and they did fine. The rangers also warned us of a potential 1/2 inch snow at Indian Gardens and up to 5 inches on the South Rim. Thankfully, the weathermen were wrong ( :app: ), and we got no precipitation to speak of (maybe a grand total of 10 or 20 rain drops on the tent :lol: ). As usually happens when a cold front moves in, the next day was gorgeous, with blue sky and good visibility, albeit just a little cold. When we left camp, it was right around 40, and the temperature slowly dropped all day, until it was just below freezing for the last couple miles of hiking. Driving home through Flagstaff, the temps dropped as low as 24.

Overall, this was a great trip. Everything worked out OK, even though we forgot our pot and fuel (we still had the stove and utensils, so it could have been much worse!). The North Kaibab trail in particular was extremely busy. Just to give you an idea, we talked to a ranger at Indian Gardens who said that the Grand Canyon's previous record for rim-to-rim day-hikers was 1200 in one day. She said they exceeded 2000 rim-to-rim day-hikers on October 24th this year. It felt like someone was going past about every minute in one direction or the other. It was crazy! I now remember why I've done so much wilderness hiking in the Grand Canyon in the past...the crowds simply aren't there. I'm thinking back to when we did South Bass to Boucher, and saw only 1 person in 7 days (except for a few people on the top of the Hermit trail going out). Or the Royal Arch Route where we saw no one for 6 days. I've done Rim to Rim now, just to say that I've done it, but I can assure you my next Rim to Rim will be something like Nankoweep to Tanner or North Bass to South Bass. That'll be far more enjoyable.
foliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observation
Autumn Foliage Observation Light
Some aspen, cottonwood, and oak (though most aspen were past their peak).

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Bright Angel Canyon Heavy flow Heavy flow

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Bright Angel Creek Light flow Light flow
Always flowing nicely!

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Ribbon Falls Light flow Light flow
Just about the same flow as March 2018 when I saw it last.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Roaring Springs Gallon + per minute Gallon + per minute
Heavy flow over the falls from Roaring Springs

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Roaring Springs Canyon Heavy flow Heavy flow
3 archives
Sep 26 2020
ddgrunning
avatar

 Guides 2
 Routes 230
 Photos 4,513
 Triplogs 378

50 male
 Joined Apr 13 2011
 Gilbert, AZ
Rim to Rim, AZ 
Rim to Rim, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Sep 26 2020
ddgrunning
Hiking28.15 Miles 5,846 AEG
Hiking28.15 Miles   10 Hrs   32 Mns   2.82 mph
5,846 ft AEG      32 Mns Break
 
Partners none no partners
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout Popup | MapDEX
When my non-hiking friends ask why hiking is so special to me, I'll point them to this weekend’s R2R as a way to sum it up.

Two days disconnected from internet, tv, media, email, cell phones, politics, COVID-craziness, etc.— and 10+ hours of uninterrupted time with my teenage daughter (a HS senior), immersed in one of the most amazing places on earth.

As this is my youngest daughter, I'm starting to run out of nearby kids to hike with, so I'm trying to build a few more memories while she's still at home. We'll be heading back soon to do a backpacking trip to Nankoweap. :y:

On this trip, we drove up to the North Rim on Friday. We usually stay at the cabins on the North Rim, but this time stayed outside the park at the Kaibab Lodge. It's an eclectic place. Nothing fancy, but the beds were comfortable (which is all that really mattered to me).

Up early the next morning (of course), and on the trail by 5:30 a.m. TH parking was relatively full but not packed, and the trail traffic was relatively lighter (due to COVID?). It was relatively warm by end-of-September standards, which was nice at the start, but portended an oven later on in the hike ....

Hiked by headlamp for the first mile.

Passing through Supai Tunnel is like the entrance to a Disneyland theme park: when you come out the other side, it feels like you are in another world, as the Canyon opens up to dramatic views at that point.

At the Roaring Springs turnoff, I decided to make a short side trip to the rest area. I had never been down there before. It adds another .6 or so to the trip, plus a couple hundred feet of elevation gain. At the rest area, there are bathrooms (closed/locked) and a water spigot (turned off) and not much else in the way of amenities. Views of Roaring Springs along the trail, though, are better than from the NK trail. Also, you notice that there are several other places where the springs are flowing down the side of the canyon walls. The resulting creek in the drainage also has some nice cascades, including a 10-12 ft. fall not very far downstream (by slight bushwhack) from the rest area. There was an anchor and rope that would allow one to downclimb to the base of the small falls, but as I was still in the latter stages of recuperating from a broken collarbone, I decided that further off-trail exploring downstream would have to wait for another trip.

My daughter was not interested in taking any extracurricular detours, so I had to hustle to catch up to her, which I eventually did just around Cottonwood campground.

At the Ribbon Falls turnoff, we checked out the dilapidated bridge and wondered how much longer till it would collapse altogether and crash into the creek.

We didn't venture over to Ribbon by way of the creek, but from the NK trail, it looked like the flow was a bit anemic.

The rest of the way to Phantom was uneventful. I always enjoy the narrow confines of the Box.

After about 5 hours of hiking, we reached Phantom Ranch and soaked our feet in the creek by the BA campground area, while eating lunch.

Then it was over to the Silver Bridge and up Bright Angel. The River was a a deep/vibrant green--beautiful, but seemed a little lower, given the dry winter.

I had planned on giving a go up South Kaibab instead of BA, but my daughter wasn't interested in that waterless, exposed death march, so we stuck with the traditional BA climb.

We hit Devil's Corkscrew at the hottest and most exposed time of day. It made for a bit of slog, but my daughter was a champ, and soon the Corkscrew was conquered.

At Indian Garden, the temperature gauge was showing well over 100 degrees. My daughter soaked her feet in the creek while we steeled ourselves for the final 4.5 mile / 3000 ft. climb. I always tell people that it's just a Flatiron hike to the top from Indian Garden--but less steep! (I also warn them that the last two miles are five miles long!).

As usual, those final miles took their toll, but my daughter set a solid pace and kept on trucking. Luckily, by the time we hit the base of the climbing in earnest (about .75 mi. up canyon from Indian Garden), the trail was largely shaded.

Topped out at 4 pm, and hung around for a beautiful canyon sunset.

Unfortunately, due to COVID, the showers at Mather Campground were closed, so we settled for a hand/face wash and change of clothes for the late drive home.

Back to the question of why hikes like this are so meaningful to me. This is my battery recharging station.

It’s not just the incredible vistas—and they ARE incredible. But incredible vistas can be appreciated in photos, in a magazine, on a poster, or on a social media post of HAZ triplog.

Hiking itself offers an exponentially different level of appreciation—one that is simply not available through two-dimensional, visual perception.

Hiking allows me to jump INTO the photo; to manipulate and appreciate the incomparable artistry of God’s creations from many angles; to interact with, and EXPERIENCE the vistas of the trail with all five of my senses, as well as a touch of the spiritual:

*From the smell of the towering pine trees on the North Rim;

*To the sound of Roaring Springs or the rushing cascades along Bright Angel Creek;

*To the sight of the mighty green (or chocolate) Colorado River underfoot at the Silver Bridge with the powerful, churning eddy swirling upstream on its south side;

*To the taste of fresh water at Indian Garden after conquering the Devil’s Corkscrew in the mid-day heat;

*To the burning/aching of my own muscles and rolling drops of my own sweat, mixing with the powdery layer of dust I’ve carried with me 20+ miles from the North Kaibab Trailhead and across the expanse of the Canyon, as I ascend the seemingly endless climb from Three-Mile-Resthouse to the Bright Angel Trailhead.

Hiking allows me to become part of the landscape—to feel alive and to connect (or reconnect) my life with fellow creations of Mother Earth—both animate and inanimate.

There are some things that cannot be fully appreciated without investing a portion of your very being--your own energy and sweat (and some occasional blood, blisters, tears, and muscle cramps).

Precious few things are more valuable in this world to me than sharing such immersive hiking experiences with someone I love and savoring the resulting shared memories created thereby.
_____________________
Aug 22 2020
desertadapted
avatar

 Photos 117
 Triplogs 23

45 male
 Joined Apr 25 2017
 Phoenix, AZ
South Kaibab TrailNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar Aug 22 2020
desertadapted
Hiking19.25 Miles 5,520 AEG
Hiking19.25 Miles
5,520 ft AEG8 LBS Pack
 no routesno photosets
South Kaibab, River Trail, Bright Angel, Rim Trail. Alpine start. The Canyon was sparsely populated today. You can really feel the impact of COVID-19 and the end of the summer season. I encountered no one the entire way down Kaibab, and few people until 1.5 Mile hut, after which it was the usual mob. Rim Trail, to get back to the car, was less crowded than I've seen it outside of winter.
_____________________
Aug 11 2020
LJW
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 Photos 923
 Triplogs 218

27 male
 Joined Jun 02 2019
 Phoenix, AZ
South Rim - Colorado River Loop, AZ 
South Rim - Colorado River Loop, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Aug 11 2020
LJW
Hiking23.55 Miles 5,340 AEG
Hiking23.55 Miles   9 Hrs   20 Mns   2.91 mph
5,340 ft AEG   1 Hour   15 Mns Break
 
1st trip
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout Popup | MapDEX
Like Twain and Halley's Comet, my twin brother and I were born in the midst of the Perseids. I try to see them every year, and this year I ran back my Perseid hike from last year. Same hike, only started a half hour earlier and added Phantom Ranch. Down year this year, too bright a moon or something. Don't know that much about them, mostly just like to watch.

Last year it seemed cool to walk the Rim Trail from BA to SK. It's easier, however, to crane your neck and stargaze when walking on a wide, paved surface like the highways along the South Rim. So I forewent the Rim Trail dreams and stuck to roads between the trailheads. Left PHX at 11pm to make a 3am start time happen. Parked up from BA and off I went into the dark. Only saw about two dozen shooting stars, way down from last year.

Walked the highways and watched the stars. Didn't really need a headlamp on the roads' reflective surface, used it anyway. Interestingly no elk or deer out. When I passed the visitor center, I locked silvery eyes with something in the monochrome glow of my headlamp, twenty yards from the road under a juniper in the forest. Round, flat face. Didn't take it for a deer or elk. I'd read about Eric York and the tracking info on the lions he tagged, and I remember being surprised at the range of many of the cats that live on the South Rim. Probably imagining things. Comforted myself the rest of the walk to SK by singing tunes of the late John Prine and thumbing the plastic safety clip of a bear spray canister.

S Kaibab down. Only passed two people, and I was the only descending hiker when I got there. TH is closed except to rangers and residents. Beat the sun by quite a bit, and it wasn't up until 6am when I was already past O'Neil Butte. Cool the whole way.

Crossed the black bridge, dunked my head in the river, and soaked my shirt at the boat beach before poking around Phantom Ranch. Had never been there before, must be nice. Lots of friendly deer. 80 by 8am in the shade of the canyon.

Crossed back over to River Trail and enjoyed the bottom while it lasted. Passed no one the whole length of the River Trail. Green water with a stronger flow than last year. Started to get warm working through the sand, but it was shadier than I remembered.

BA up after a short break at the Pipe Creek Beach. Again, got real wet before carrying on. Started to see folks after a couple miles, but I cannot remember a less busy trip up BA. Only the last mile was busy, and not really Grand Canyon busy. Mercifully, clouds started to form over the canyon by the time I was at Indian Gardens and they only got shadier the rest of the way up.

No shuttle means a long walk to make this one work. Even just SK, closest parking is the visitor center. Without all the services of GCNP and the closures of just about all trailheads and pullouts, it's going to be prime for some solitude in the Corridor where it can otherwise be hard to find.
3 archives
Mar 04 2020
DixieFlyer
avatar

 Guides 60
 Routes 588
 Photos 8,302
 Triplogs 525

male
 Joined Jan 07 2017
 Fountain Hills,
Grand Canyon: South Rim-River-South Rim, AZ 
Grand Canyon: South Rim-River-South Rim, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Mar 04 2020
DixieFlyer
Hiking18.70 Miles 4,642 AEG
Hiking18.70 Miles   8 Hrs   7 Mns   2.56 mph
4,642 ft AEG      48 Mns Break
 
I thought that I'd head up to the Grand Canyon before the weather starts getting warm, and this week looked like a good time to go up there.

I did the Rim2River2Rim hike by starting at the South Kaibab Th on the South Rim, going down to Phantom Ranch, and then coming back up to the South Rim on the Bright Angel Trail.

It was a bit cold at the start of the hike -- the temperature was probably in the upper 20's, and I had on a stocking cap, gloves, and a jacket. After about a mile and a half I shed the stocking hat, gloves, and jacket and kept them in my backpack for the remainder of the hike. It was almost too warm down by the river, but I managed to survive it. Other than that, the weather was near perfect for a GC hike.

I saw a couple of mule deer in the Bright Angel Trail near the river between the Bright Angel Campground and the Silver Bridge -- one buck and one doe. The doe was in the middle of the trail, probably not more than 20 feet from me, and she just stood there and stared at me. The buck was similarly unconcerned with my presence.

There was a little ice at the upper part of the Bright Angel Trail, and I put my microspikes on for about the last 0.4 miles. In the morning there was next to no ice on the South Kaibab Trail, so no microspikes were needed.

There did not seem to be as many foreign visitors as normal on the south rim. I wonder if this is due at least partly to the coronavirus?
Flora
Flora
Cottonwood
Fauna
Fauna
Mule Deer
Named place
Named place
Phantom Ranch The Battleship
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation None
I saw no wildflowers anywhere; fortunately there was plenty of nice scenery to compensate for the lack of wildflowers!
_____________________
May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. -- Edward Abbey
1 archive
Aug 23 2019
MAP
avatar

 Routes 91
 Photos 1
 Triplogs 59

40 female
 Joined Oct 21 2016
 Tempe, AZ
Grand Canyon - Inner Gorge - AZT #38Northwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar Aug 23 2019
MAP
Hiking20.50 Miles 6,688 AEG
Hiking20.50 Miles2 Days   13 Hrs   48 Mns   
6,688 ft AEG
 
no photosets
1st trip
Day 1: First in line for the hikers' express shuttle at the Bright Angel Lodge by 3:45 am! One other person ended up showing at that stop. :lol: Different experience from the past (maybe because it's August). On SK trail by 4:40 am. Sunrise, around an hour later, was indescribable. Got to Phantom Ranch around 9 am and took a quick snack break. First time up North Kaibab and we were immediately blown away with the extreme beauty when we entered "the box". It was warm but actually a pretty perfect temperature at that time. We took another break at one of the creek crossings to filter cold creek water and cool down. Met the 2nd park ranger of the day who was giving hikers heat-hiking advice. Those rangers must deal with a lot. :-k We continued on and hit the Ribbon Falls creek trail sign around 11:30 am. It was getting pretty darn hot at that point and Ribbon Falls was the PERFECT oasis to cool down at. The hike to the falls took us about a half-hour. The distance is super short but there are many trails and some are more reasonable than others to follow. Ribbon Falls is out of this world beautiful! We had the place completely to ourselves for two hours while we played in the little cave and relaxed behind the falls. With our water bladders filled and our body temps cooled, we decided to head out and break at each of the (approximately) mile and a half spaced campgrounds ahead. There were a couple other waterfalls we stopped at to make use of the cold water and one with a great freezing cold pool close to the Manzanita Ranger Station. Waived hello to Roaring Springs falls around 5 pm and kept plugging away up the ever increasing grade. From here the side canyon we were heading up, paralleling the rock outcropping the north rim lodge sits on, kept getting prettier and prettier. As the sun went down the colors reflected in the canyon seemed to continuously change. The final few miles of N Kaibab are RELENTLESS! :sweat: Holy moly! Darkness was lovely and I had little bat friends flitting around to keep me company as the vegetation turned to forest forest. I made it to the top around 8:30 pm thinking my two friends were close behind. It was freeeeezing at the top and I immediately put on every piece of clothing I had. My friends arrived about a half hour later and one was feeling pretty bad & ended up throwing up. Unfortunately she had stopped consuming electrolytes once the sun went behind the canyon walls and didn't think about how much she was still sweating. I convinced her to eat some of my saltstick chewables and we made it to the lodge. :y:

Day 2: Woke up in our adorable little cabin feeling surprisingly good! We spent the day leisurely walking around the north rim and of course hitting up the lodge for food food and more food. Loved all the delicious vegan options offered for all three meals at the lodge! :DANCE: Our one friend who experienced heat exhaustion the previous evening ended up securing a spot on the shuttle for the return trip the next day instead of hiking back with us. We were grateful she had that option at the last minute and happy she was feeling better.

Day 3: We got to the N Kaibab TH at 4 am and started our decent. It was cool but more pleasant than the evening of our arrival. We got to the bridge around 5:30 am and light was starting to really expose the canyon colors. Stopped briefly to appreciate the colors in the caves area but no breaks this time around. I'm not going to lie...my calves were tight and my knees were screaming pretty loudly during the entire decent. Up is definitely my preference! We entered "the box" around 10 am (an hour later than our way in) and felt the heavy humid air sucking the energy out of me fo sho. Got to Phantom Ranch around 11:30 am and bought some cups of ice to add to our bladders and took our first break. Stayed for about a half hour and headed out with the intention of stopping at each resthouse area to cool down. Next stop was the beautiful little beach near the Colorado River Resthouse. We met a large family who hiked down just for the day to cook out & hang. They had multiple grills, leftover onions, potatoes, etc. They had packed it in and they were packing it all out (as we all should but unfortunately people don't always). Impressive! Now for the final stretch. We stopped at Indian Gardens around 3 pm and filtered cold water for the last time and cooled down. Heading up Bright Angel...I will never get over that view with the light streaming in and illuminating the angel. No words. The Bright Angel switchbacks feel like cake compared to the North Kaibab switchbacks. Still, our bodies were pretty exhausted at this point and we were moving pretty slowly. It's fun encountering tourists who have only hiked down a mile and a half and don't seem to understand they are blocking the entire trail for exhausted hikers who can't deal with navigating them right now. :lol: My friend made it to the top just before me and was treated to the sight of two mountain goats standing on a rock with a ray of light shinning on them! I saw the picture but missed the goats. Still, I was extremely happy for her to have had such a special treat!
_____________________
1 archive
Aug 11 2019
LJW
avatar

 Photos 923
 Triplogs 218

27 male
 Joined Jun 02 2019
 Phoenix, AZ
South Kaibab TrailNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar Aug 11 2019
LJW
Hiking22.53 Miles 5,600 AEG
Hiking22.53 Miles   7 Hrs   40 Mns   3.07 mph
5,600 ft AEG      20 Mns Break
 
1st trip
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout Popup | MapDEX
Left Phoenix at 11:30pm on Saturday in order to beat the sun by a few hours and avoid the heat down low in the canyon but also to see some stars. Parked close to the Bright Angel Trailhead at 3:20am and headed in the direction of The South Rim/South Kaibab TH. Used a headlamp in the dark and took roads and some stretches of the Rim Trail. The canyon was completely black, and because the moon was off to the horizon and obscured by clouds, the stars lived up to the hype. The band of the Milky Way was visible, as were shooting stars from the Perseid meteor shower about every ten or twenty seconds. Turns out the climax was to be the nights of the 12th and 13th.

It was a 5.5 mile walk to the S Kaibab Trailhead. Headlamps bobbed in the darkness below, splashing light on the canyon walls. Headed down as pre-dawn light lit the trail. Got stuck behind some mules bringing supplies for Phantom Ranch, but they let me pass at the first opening. The air was cool until just passed the Tip Off as the trail dropped down toward the black bridge. Only a few groups of people on Kaibab that early, mostly going down, but one coming up who had gotten an early start on Bright Angel.

Passed a mule train on the black bridge, but from there to Bright Angel I didn't see anyone. It's a strange feeling being on the bottom of The Grand Canyon, especially with no one in sight. From the river to Indian Gardens there were several groups of backpackers coming up and people making a mid-day trip down to the river and back. I was surprised how many people do this. Overall, not too many people until the last two and a half miles. From there I fought against the current of tourists who were mostly all apparently very much in a hurry.

Temperatures were a little warm on the ascent of Bright Angel, but with water at all the stops it's a non-factor with an early start. That said, I planned on bringing all the water I would need and brought 5.5 liters. Drank it all plus a little at the camp by the river.

If I were to do this one again I would do it as a shuttle and try to include a trip to Phantom Ranch/Plateau Point. I think either/both would be very doable without the extra mileage of crossing on foot along the rim.
3 archives
May 18 2019
survivordude
avatar

 Routes 61
 Photos 975
 Triplogs 208

40 male
 Joined Aug 19 2009
 The Basin
Grand Canyon Corridor LoopNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar May 18 2019
survivordude
Hiking19.44 Miles 4,973 AEG
Hiking19.44 Miles   10 Hrs   10 Mns   2.42 mph
4,973 ft AEG   2 Hrs   8 Mns Break
 
_____________________
“There is nothing outside the thought of the immediate moment.”
Mar 09 2019
DixieFlyer
avatar

 Guides 60
 Routes 588
 Photos 8,302
 Triplogs 525

male
 Joined Jan 07 2017
 Fountain Hills,
Grand Canyon: South Rim-River-South Rim, AZ 
Grand Canyon: South Rim-River-South Rim, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Mar 09 2019
DixieFlyer
Hiking17.70 Miles 4,720 AEG
Hiking17.70 Miles   7 Hrs   49 Mns   2.80 mph
4,720 ft AEG   1 Hour   30 Mns Break
 
This is the second tine that Tracie, my intrepid hiking partner, and I have done this great hike.

We started on the South Rim at the South Kaibab TH; went down the South Kaibab Trail to the Colorado River; crossed over the river on the Black Bridge; then took the River Trail over to the North Kaibab Trail and went a short distance to Phantom Ranch where we stopped for a snack break; then we went back across the river on the Silver Bridge and took the Bright Angel Trail back up to the South Rim.

This turned out to be a perfect day for a hike: sunny, not too breezy, and a bit cool. There were a few people on the South Kaibab Trail, but not too many. There was hardly anyone down at Phantom Ranch. There were a number of hikers on the Bright Angel Trail, especially as we got closer to the top. Most hikers were either going down and back up from the Bright Angel TH, or had spent the night at Phantom Ranch and were coming back up to the Rim.
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May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. -- Edward Abbey
Jun 23 2018
John9L
avatar

 Guides 6
 Routes 174
 Photos 5,294
 Triplogs 1,639

male
 Joined Mar 12 2004
 Scottsdale, AZ
Rim to RimNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Backpack avatar Jun 23 2018
John9L
Backpack28.12 Miles 5,500 AEG
Backpack28.12 Miles2 Days         
5,500 ft AEG
 
no photosets
Spontaneous Rim to Rim trip with one night spent at Phantom Ranch.

This trip came together at the last possible minute. I was working on plans that ultimately fell through and had to look for a backup option. I had the Grand Canyon on my mind. The highs at Phantom were forecasted at 110 and I was questioning if this is a good idea. I thought about it and decided to go for it. I booked a seat on the 8am Trans Canyon Shuttle and drove to the south rim on Friday night and slept in my jeep. I woke on Saturday morning and headed over to the Bright Angel Lodge to check into the shuttle. Once there, I asked if there were any Phantom cancellations. They said yes, there are two private cabins and three bunks in the men’s dorm. I thought this sounded fun so I booked a bunk in the men’s dorm and paid for the 6:30pm dinner of Beef Stew. From there, I loaded up into the shuttle and made the long drive around the canyon.

The shuttle dropped me off at the North Kaibab Trailhead around 12:15pm and I got myself situated. I topped off my water and geared up and started in. Right away I could feel the heat. Direct sunlight was hot and shade was limited. I knew I had to be careful on the hike down. I continued on and the crowds thinned as I worked my way down. I kept a modest pace and took short breaks in the shade. I looked forward to the creek down below.

With some effort I passed Roaring Springs and I stopped for water just above Cottonwood. I soaked my bandana and poured water down my back. I feel good overall and I’m drinking plenty of water. I continued on and passed Cottonwood and I headed for Ribbon Falls where I took a short break by standing directly in the pour over. I was soaked head to toe and felt great! After I had my fill I continued south and had about two miles in constant sunlight. It beat down on me. I wore a long sleeve UPF shirt and I wore sunscreen and my bandana over my neck. All is well. I eventually hit The Box and had mostly shade the rest of the way. It was around 4:30pm and the sun was too low for this canyon. I cruised through this final stretch and arrived at Phantom Ranch around 5:30pm.

I checked in and headed into the men’s dorm. I have just under an hour to dinner so I took a shower and relaxed. The men’s dorm can sleep up to ten and includes a bathroom and a shower. The shower at Phantom Ranch was a first for me and was a real treat! It helped cool me off and brought me back to life. I eventually headed over to the canteena and was herded to a community table for dinner. This dinner is another first and was well worth the 36 bucks! There was plenty of food and the conversation was fun. I enjoyed myself! After dinner, I made the easy loop around the Silver Bridge & Black Bridge. I finished right as nightfall set in. I made a quick stop at the canteena where I paged through Death in the Grand Canyon. Someone has made minor changes & also added home towns for many people. It was interesting to see. From there, I went back to the dorm and turned in for the night.

I slept well all night with ear plugs I bought in the canteena. Guys were getting up at various times throughout the night but I didn’t hear a thing. I woke at 5:30am and was surprised to see I was the last one up. Most of the guys left and others were having breakfast. I geared up and topped off water and then started the hike out at 5:45am. The hike out went well. I set a moderate pace and took lots of short breaks in shade. I topped off my water at Indian Garden and took a short break. From there I climbed out. The sun was hot but tolerable. I topped out around 9:45am and headed back to Phoenix.

This was a hell of a hike and I’m glad I took the time and spent the money to make it happen. The spontaneity was the best part. The heat was brutal but tolerable. The key is avoiding direct sunlight whenever possible. And I'm calling this a backpack.
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4 archives
Mar 30 2018
arizona_water
avatar

 Guides 9
 Routes 118
 Photos 1,079
 Triplogs 118

31 male
 Joined Mar 06 2016
 Salt River Valle
Phantom Canyon - LowerNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Backpack avatar Mar 30 2018
arizona_water
Backpack33.07 Miles 11,961 AEG
Backpack33.07 Miles2 Days   6 Hrs   16 Mns   
11,961 ft AEG
 
1st trip
I have two friends who have never been to the Grand Canyon before. They wanted to go backpacking, so I put them on a six-person permit. Quite the intro to the Canyon and to backpacking... :lol:

Day 1
We left Phoenix at 5:15am, hoping to beat spring break/holiday weekend traffic at the south rim entrance gate. Fail. There were long lines of traffic when we pulled up at 9. This, and a long line for the shuttle bus put us on the South Kaibab 10:45, which was much later than I felt comfortable starting. The group had no issues until the Utah Flats route. I must have not done a good enough job of mentally preparing everyone for the second half of their day because they were quite surprised with the elevation gain. Piano Alley was cool, and we experienced some minor route finding in the cactus maze on the plateau before finding the easy-to-follow trail. We arrived at the established campsite at Phantom Creek at 6:40pm. I ran over to the webbing anchor to verify that the rope was solid and the anchor was in good shape. Returning to camp, I realized that my hopes of exploring up-canyon would have to wait for a future trip. What a nice place to sleep! The sounds of flowing water are hard to beat when it comes to nighttime noises.

Day 2
We easily down-climbed the 20ft rope into Phantom Creek Canyon and enjoyed the next 4+ miles of enticing creek hiking. This section was by far the highlight of trip, with narrows sections, waterfalls, and waterslides. We had 3 mandatory swims, but keep in mind that Phantom Creek appeared to be flowing at a lower rate than in previous photos on HAZ. This is likely due to a low snowpack on the rim.

The confluence of Phantom Creek and Bright Angel is amazing because it is uncommon to see a true triangle confluence in small riparian areas. We proceeded up the Clear Creek Trail to a campsite below Sumner Butte. I expected this to be a mediocre dry camp after the previous night's perfect campsite. However, the views were stunning and it was fun to look around and identify all the different points and temples. After sunset, we had a light show as headlights were flashing all around the canyon. I was surprised to see two lights coming down the Brahma Saddle. I was curious about their itinerary, but mostly jealous. :)

Day 3
It was an uneventful hike down to Phantom Ranch and out Bright Angel. We had three rangers stop and talk with us, asking if we approached Clear Creek trail from the Brahma Saddle side. I found this question a bit odd since approaching the Sumner Wash area from the north (departing from phantom creek canyon) would be a considerably difficult hike in one day. One of the rangers had talked with the two climbers who I saw the previous night, coming down from the Brahma Saddle. The ranger told me they were climbing Zoroaster, but in a single day from the SK. While I understand doing Brahma in a single day, the trad climbing up Zoroaster seems like a bit of an EXTRA long day... respect!

Overall, this trip had many high points and only one low point - I lost my sun hat. So if you see an Outdoor Research broad brim hat on the Clear Creek, let me know. ;)


water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Phantom Creek Medium flow Medium flow
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- there's nothing like finding Water in the Desert -
2 archives
Feb 28 2018
DixieFlyer
avatar

 Guides 60
 Routes 588
 Photos 8,302
 Triplogs 525

male
 Joined Jan 07 2017
 Fountain Hills,
Grand Canyon: South Rim to River to South Rim, AZ 
Grand Canyon: South Rim to River to South Rim, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Feb 28 2018
DixieFlyer
Hiking17.90 Miles 4,790 AEG
Hiking17.90 Miles   8 Hrs   29 Mns   2.76 mph
4,790 ft AEG   2 Hrs    Break
 
1st trip
Partners none no partners
I made my first ever trip to the Grand Canyon, and along with my intrepid hiking partner, Tracie, we went down the south Kaibab Trail to the Colorado River; crossed the river on the Black Bridge; came back across the river on the Silver Bridge; then continued on the River Trail to the Bright Angel Trail; then came back up to the Rim on the Bright Angel Trail.

The Grand Canyon was as awesome as I thought that it would be. It was about 20 degrees when we started, and was near 60 when we got down to the River. I imagine that it was in the upper 30's when we got back to the Bright Angel Trailhead. I put on my microspikes for the last 1.5 miles or so -- the trail was snow packed but it really did not seem all that slippery; but since I had my microspikes in my backpack I put them on.

The hike was actually easier than I thought that it might be -- the trails were well groomed and maintained, thus making the footing much better than trails that I often hike in the Valley.

My Garmin GPS recorded 17.9 miles and around a 4,700' AEG.

Next at the GC I think that I will do a Rim2Rim day hike, or maybe even Rim2Rim2Rim spread out over 2 days.
_____________________
May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. -- Edward Abbey
2 archives
Dec 30 2017
friendofThundergod
avatar

 Guides 28
 Routes 314
 Photos 9,133
 Triplogs 868

39 male
 Joined Jan 21 2013
 AZ
Phantom Canyon - UpperNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Backpack avatar Dec 30 2017
friendofThundergod
Backpack35.40 Miles 10,481 AEG
Backpack35.40 Miles3 Days         
10,481 ft AEG
 
1st trip
I headed to the Grand Canyon with @carriejane over the New Years weekend. The goals were: Hippie Camp in Upper Phantom, a recon of the Shiva exit route, a quick trip up Haunted Canyon and then Cheops Pyramid. The trip was also a test run on my surgically repaired shoulder, which is nearing its fourth month of recovery and long awaited end to its five pound limitation/restriction.

Day one included a late start and then an extra trip down the road to the trailhead to go back and grab some containers we had forgotten that would be needed to haul the water for our dry camp on day two. South Kaibab was a bit of a zoo, but the hiking was quick and the views were nice as usual. The Utah Flats Route was the rugged steep little climb we expected, but it went well. The stretch from the top to Phantom Canyon was a real treat, some great clouds and big views. The scramble down to Phantom was a little tedious, but that initial stretch of canyon makes it worthwhile. Initially, we had planned to hike into Hippie camp on the first night, but the attractiveness of the overhang camp and taking off the heavy packs won over.

On day two we day hiked up to Hippie camp and did a quick recon of the Shiva Exit Route, which I have to admit looks pretty intense, but I would still like to utilize it on a future ambitious trip. Although Hippie camp was a minor let down, the area intrigued both of us and we discussed a potential future return during snow melt. There was no time for Haunted Canyon with Cheops Pyramid still on the slate, so we returned to camp, packed up and made our way down stream. After a quick visit to the rope and falls that mark the upper and lower divide of Phantom, we filtered and stocked up on water for Cheops and our upcoming dry camp. Then it was the brisk climb back up U.F.R. and a quick stroll across the Tonto. We dropped the heavy packs and started off for Cheops at about 2:10 p.m. The off trail contour to the pyramid is a bit of a slog, but it seemed to go by quickly and before we knew it we were at the base of the “steps.” This part went a little smoother for me than the last time and we located the little climbs and the cairns marking them with relative ease. On the summit before 3:30 p.m. and after a ten minute break or so we were heading back down. The hike back to our packs was a little slow, but we were still able to retrieve our packs and make our way down trail to a nice campsite just before nightfall.

Day three consisted of slipping and sliding down Utah Flats into Phantom Ranch and then the River Trail to Bright Angel. We detoured off BA to do some of the Old Bright Angel and made the obligatory stop at the archeological site along the way. The last three miles of BA were a major slog for me, but Carrie was unfazed and left me in the dust a little.
Culture
Culture
Mascot

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Hippie Spring North Gallon per minute Gallon per minute

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Hippie Spring South Gallon per minute Gallon per minute

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Outlet Canyon Light flow Light flow
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9 archives
Sep 23 2017
ddgrunning
avatar

 Guides 2
 Routes 230
 Photos 4,513
 Triplogs 378

50 male
 Joined Apr 13 2011
 Gilbert, AZ
Rim to Rim and Upper Ribbon Falls, AZ 
Rim to Rim and Upper Ribbon Falls, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Sep 23 2017
ddgrunning
Hiking
Hiking
 
1st trip
Annual R2R with a great group of friends and family. My 18 year old daughter joined on this trip--her third time. Stayed in the cabins on the North Rim on Friday night; ate at the Lodge and enjoyed the sunset from the veranda, followed by views of the sliver moon.

I don't usually sleep well the night before R2R, but managed the best night's sleep yet this year. Alarm went off at 4:30, and our group was at the North Kaibab trailhead, heading down at 5:40 a.m. With an overnight forecast low of 29 degrees, we were expecting it to be very cold, but were pleasantly surprised to find the TH much warmer--low 40s or upper 30s at worst.

It was quite busy on the upper part of the trail. Lots of groups out enjoying the canyon. After Manzanita Resthouse, people settled into their paces, spread out, and the trail became less crowded.

Just to shake things up a bit, and to get a little more solitude in, I convinced one of our group to join me on a side trip to Upper Ribbon Falls. I had never been before. Very cool place, and indeed, we had it to ourselves. Peeked over the ledge down to Ribbon Falls on the return, and then it was back on the "highway" to Phantom Ranch.

At the bridge crossing over Bright Angel Creek, they've put up a new sign, directing folks to the Bright Angel or South Kaibab trails (really one of the very few spots on the trail where someone could make a wrong turn).

Enjoyed ideal weather on the way up, with a slight breeze and intermittent cloud cover.

Decided to go up the Old Devil's Corkscrew, and then rejoined the new trail as it wraps around the point and joins Garden Creek. Took a dip in the "jacuzzi pools" before saddling up for the jaunt into Indian Gardens.

Felt great on the final 4.5mi/3,000ft climb out of IG. Enjoyed my 8 minute shower at Mather Campground. Then it was on to dinner at Maswick. Very disappointed with the service this time. The two folks running the grill literally spoke no English, and we stood in line and watched the chef burn our hamburgers while he was focused on cleaning his spatulas. Next time, I'm opting for Wendy's in Tusayan--half the price, and twice as quick.

Another incredible trip. So grateful to have this gem so close and accessible to where I live.
Culture
Culture
HAZ - Selfie
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May 14 2017
Dave1
avatar

 Routes 29
 Photos 1,548
 Triplogs 1,802

45 male
 Joined Jan 25 2009
 Phoenix, AZ
Cheops PlateauNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar May 14 2017
Dave1
Hiking23.00 Miles
Hiking23.00 Miles
 no routes
4th try, finally got it done. Yay.

Was supposed to be hot but turned out to be a nice day in the canyon. Overcast and breezy.
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Apr 29 2017
Thoreau
avatar

 Routes 10
 Photos 466
 Triplogs 679

male
 Joined Mar 10 2008
 Phoenix, AZ
Rim to RimNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Backpack avatar Apr 29 2017
Thoreau
Backpack44.50 Miles 11,000 AEG
Backpack44.50 Miles1 Day   9 Hrs   36 Mns   
11,000 ft AEG
 no routes
1st trip
Was not a backpack trip but a single really long hike. Backpacking sure woulda been easier though.

SK :next: NK :next: BA
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3 archives
Apr 08 2017
LindaAnn
avatar

 Guides 65
 Routes 407
 Photos 4,556
 Triplogs 1,379

41 female
 Joined Dec 24 2007
 Ahwatukee, AZ
South Kaibab TrailNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar Apr 08 2017
LindaAnn
Hiking21.13 Miles 4,880 AEG
Hiking21.13 Miles   10 Hrs   32 Mns   2.41 mph
4,880 ft AEG   1 Hour   46 Mns Break
 
1st trip
Partners partners
danielac
Daniela & I got started around 6:30am, and headed down South Kaibab. It was cold and windy at the top, but the wind mostly died down once we got below the rim. Of course, we got started we hordes of other hikers, but everyone quickly spread out at their own pace. Not too far down, I suddenly heard Daniela speaking Slovak with a couple of guys--one was Slovak, the other Czech--and then a little while later, she chatted with a couple from Czech, so Eastern Europe was well represented on the hike. We stopped for a few picture breaks along the way, but made good time down to the river.

At the bottom, we headed over to Phantom Ranch for a snack break, then made our way west on the River trail, then up Bright Angel. We headed over to Plateau Point, where we had another snack break, and relaxed for a while. Then made our way--slowly--up Bright Angel. I could definitely feel that I had been sick all last week. Temps were comfortable all day, and there wasn't too much wind to deal with. Even though I've never been particularly enamored with the Canyon, it was a fun day.
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Moderate
A good variety of wildflowers, and there was an abundance of brittlebush.
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Apr 01 2017
Dave1
avatar

 Routes 29
 Photos 1,548
 Triplogs 1,802

45 male
 Joined Jan 25 2009
 Phoenix, AZ
Cheyava FallsNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar Apr 01 2017
Dave1
Hiking42.00 Miles 10,000 AEG
Hiking42.00 Miles   15 Hrs      2.80 mph
10,000 ft AEG
 no routes
1st trip
Down S. Kaibab, across Clear Creek Trail, then bushwhack to the base of Cheyava Falls. Clear Creek was running higher and browner than usual. Had to walk through it quite a few times. Returned to the rim via Bright Angel Trail. There was a large rock slide along the River Trail last week but NPS already cleared it.
Named place
Named place
Cheyava Falls
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Mar 23 2017
BobP
avatar

 Guides 2
 Routes 186
 Photos 4,027
 Triplogs 2,383

59 male
 Joined Feb 26 2008
 Scottsdale, AZ
Cheops Pyramid 5206Northwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Backpack avatar Mar 23 2017
BobP
Backpack26.20 Miles 8,399 AEG
Backpack26.20 Miles1 Day         
8,399 ft AEG
 no routes
1st trip
Partners none no partners
This was Plan B. Mud stopped us about 14 miles short of Pasture wash. We did make it in ten miles. :scared: We slid off the road twice and almost got hit by a truck sliding in the other direction. We decided to turn around and hope Chumley's group wouldn't miss us too much. Plan A was Pt. Hutzil to Elves Chasm :( . After such a long drive, we had to do something. We went to the BC office and got permits for Thurs night. It was cold and snowy and rainy and we took shelter several times. The route to the pyramid was fun. There were a couple easy climbs but it was mostly a ramp up. The hike out was tough especially since I carried a condo on my back for 23 miles.

My stats are as follows. BA rt 14.9 4,521 aeg based on official route. River trail rt 3.3 and 770 aeg official route . Our Cheops route which I RS'd rt 3.46 1,596 aeg. Utah flats rt 3.5 1,512 aeg based on route info. and some side exploring including Phantom Ranch. Fun time with Dave. Thanks for driving and staying awake. First night, we camped in Williams at a hotel. It was whiteout conditions.
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https://www.seeitourway.org
Always pronounce Egeszsegedre properly......
If you like this triplog you must be a friend of BrunoP
average hiking speed 2.54 mph
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