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Sep 14 2019
DennisWilliams
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 Photos 472
 Triplogs 71

65 male
 Joined Feb 06 2012
 Mesa, AZ
Jacks Canyon / Main WallPayson, AZ
Payson, AZ
Climbing avatar Sep 14 2019
DennisWilliams
Climbing
Climbing
 no routes
1st trip
Linked none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
 Blackened Lead 5.10aSport1 Pitch40 ft
 TakeYour Pick Lead 5.10aSport1 Pitch55 ft
 Windchill Lead 5.10aSport1 Pitch55 ft
A pretty good day climbing.

My climbing buddy Brett and I spent the day at Jack's Canyon, located about half-way between Clint’s Well and Winslow along SR87 just as the pines give way to the cedars and junipers. A cool and scenic hiking destination as well as a climbing crag. It has over 200 bolted routes on decent limestone. The climbs tend to be short and with hard first moves. This means that it can be tough just to get started on a route with somewhat easier but sustained climbing above. The upshot is that you can really go for it knowing that the toughest stuff will be over quickly and you don’t have to conserve energy for higher up. The routes also tend to be pretty much vertical or overhung, reducing the risk of a lead fall as long as you are above the second bolt. It may seem counter-intuitive that overhung routes are less dangerous but with proper rope handling the risk in falling is from hitting things on the way down and not so much from hitting the ground. An overhung route has nothing to hit, leaving you hanging in space if you fall.

The three routes listed are all on the Main Wall and are the easiest to be found there. We also did Mickey Goes To Vegas over on the nearby Casino Cliffs at 5.9. I led these four and on-sighted them all. In fact, this was my first experience leading at 5.10. It's true that it is sport climbing and Jack's has a reputation for soft grading, but I'll take it! We spent the rest of the time burning ourselves out on nearby 5.11s that we top roped from anchors we could reach from the easier routes.
_____________________
"Aequanimitas."

- Antoninus Pius
Apr 16 2011
Hikergirl81
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 Photos 1,529
 Triplogs 112

40 female
 Joined Mar 03 2009
 Flagstaff, AZ
Jacks Canyon / Main WallPayson, AZ
Payson, AZ
Climbing avatar Apr 16 2011
Hikergirl81
Climbing
Climbing
 no routes
Linked none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
••••• Genesis 5.10dSport
 Sacrificial Lizard 5.11b
 Tales From The Grypt 5.11c
I took Madison along to another Meetup event at Jack's Canyon. It was a lot of fun, we met JB and Jacob up there after a nice breakfast here at my house with Mike. As he headed to Jump in Eloy, we headed up north to Jack's. I am so impressed with how tough Madison can be; I have her carry her own pack with her own provisions. She didn't climb the first day but Joe got her to try a climb on Casino cliffs on day 2.
We climbed a few more climbs then headed to the main wall. As we passed the Swiss Wall, I thought I heard familiar voices. Patty and Scott were there and they were climbing right beside the group Liz had came up with. Joey, Claire, and a few other first time climbers had come up just for the day. We went over and hung out a bit and then headed to main wall to say goodbye to make the trek back to Goodyear!
_____________________
I don't have a computer… Not because I'm against having one. Really just hasn't been a top priority on my gear list.
I am now attempting to navigate, post, reply (etc..) this site with only an iPhone… Wish me luck!
Mar 27 2011
Hikergirl81
avatar

 Photos 1,529
 Triplogs 112

40 female
 Joined Mar 03 2009
 Flagstaff, AZ
Jacks Canyon / Main WallPayson, AZ
Payson, AZ
Climbing avatar Mar 27 2011
Hikergirl81
Climbing
Climbing
 no routes
Linked none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
••••• Genesis Lead 5.10dSport
Great tough warm up lead climb for main wall
 Mighty Morphin Toprope 5.11b
Great climb, I'll have to lead this my next trip.
 Pretty Pasties Toprope 5.11b
tough start (over the water)
Mike and I camped out at Jack's. We met JB and Patrick there and shared their campfire. The next day we had a nice breakfast, courtesy of Mike, and began our climbing day. I really like the main wall of Jack's, except most of the climbs there are still way above my grade.

I find that it's easy just to TR everything when you climb with really talented, strong climbers, BUT I have to lead more! For a warm up, I led Genesis a 5.10d. I sat at the bolt under the crux to shake out my forearms before making the 'tough' moves. It was so much easier than I had remembered it; next time I'll try to get it clean, even as a warm up.(JP NOTE: many holds and good feet the whole climb, go to the very top and stabilize before clipping the anchors) We then met up with Pat and JB and a few of Mike's friends, we also ran into Deidre; She helped develop the area and wrote the guide. Deidre is an awesome person and is a inspiration for all of us female climbers in AZ!

The I got on a 12a with a bouldery start, I could touch the next hold but I decided to stop after about 10 unsuccessful attempts. There were a limited amount of climbs in that area due to some residual flooding. I got on a few more climbs including another one that I have to lead next time called Mighty Morphine (JP NOTE: it was very intuitive and had good feet crux was near top where it was balancy but holds are around the edge to the L)

I got to belay Mike on his project; Hall of flame a 5.13b. He did amazing, and got the send on his first attempt, I think it was his first time climbing it clean. He had many great sends that day and it was great to watch everybody's graceful technique on this powerful wall. Someday I hope I can lead these tough climbs, with as much confidence and skill.
Fauna
Fauna
Dog
_____________________
I don't have a computer… Not because I'm against having one. Really just hasn't been a top priority on my gear list.
I am now attempting to navigate, post, reply (etc..) this site with only an iPhone… Wish me luck!
Jun 23 2007
Vaporman
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 Guides 3
 Routes 4
 Photos 8,687
 Triplogs 931

42 male
 Joined Mar 28 2005
 SLC, Utah
Jacks Canyon / Casino CliffsPayson, AZ
Payson, AZ
Climbing avatar Jun 23 2007
Vaporman
Climbing4.00 Miles
Climbing4.00 Miles2 Days         
 no routesno photosets
1st trip
Spent another weekend climbing up at Jacks Canyon with a large group of loose friends who were there for a B-day party. Half the people in the canyon this weekend I recognized from the Phoenix Rock Gym. It always suprises me how small the climbing community actually is. :)

Most of our climbing was on Casino Cliffs & Cracker Jack, but we also got a few in on Swiss Wall and a quick one on the Main Wall. The weather was perfect considering how concerned we were about it being too hot. As long as you chase the shade and bring plenty of water, it's actually quite comfortable. :bigth:
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Yea, canyoneering is an extreme sport... EXTREMELY dramatic!!! =p
Aug 12 2006
Vaporman
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 Guides 3
 Routes 4
 Photos 8,687
 Triplogs 931

42 male
 Joined Mar 28 2005
 SLC, Utah
Jacks Canyon / Cracker Jack CliffsPayson, AZ
Payson, AZ
Hiking avatar Aug 12 2006
Vaporman
Hiking4.00 Miles
Hiking4.00 Miles
 no routesno photosets
Partners none no partners
My first time ever climbing at Jack's Canyon and I can't wait to get back. The canyon just opens up in what otherwise appears to be a large stretch of flat land off of Highway 87. The limestone cliffs are very sweet and are just begging to be climbed on.

We dropped into the canyon and hiked up to the Cracker Jack wall. Just as we were looking for a first good route to warm up on, the heavens just opened up on us and we went running for an overhanging cliff. :twisted: The dry creek bed started filling up pretty fast with side canyons spouting muddy waterfalls. The rain let up a bit and we went and checked out the temporary waterfalls. We went back to get our gear and start climbing, but the rain started up again. Eventually it let up again and we started hiking towards the exit. We got to the main wall and saw some friends climbing some 5.11s and 5.12s in the overhanging section. We watched them thrash about a bit while the skies finally cleared up. We went over to the Casino Cliffs and were able to setup two climbs before the rain started up yet again as I was rushing up to clean a route. It eventually let up as we were hiking out, but by then it was late in the day and we still needed to drive a bit and find our entrance for tomorrow's canyon. :D
_____________________
Yea, canyoneering is an extreme sport... EXTREMELY dramatic!!! =p

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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