username
X
password
register help
GuidesRoutes
 
Photosets
LabelsComments
triplogs photosets comments more
Mount Lemmon / Druid - 1 member in 2 triplogs has rated this an average 3 ( 1 to 5 best )
2 triplogs
  All Months
2 Triplogs
Jan
0
Feb
0
Mar
0
Apr
0
May
0
Jun
2
Jul
0
Aug
0
Sep
0
Oct
0
Nov
0
Dec
0
 

Jun 22 2016
rvcarter
avatar

 Guides 33
 Routes 304
 Photos 2,146
 Triplogs 236

73 male
 Joined Mar 27 2008
 tucson, az
Mount Lemmon / DruidTucson, AZ
Tucson, AZ
Climbing avatar Jun 22 2016
rvcarter
Climbing
Climbing
 
Linked none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
 Bloodly Likely 5.8Sport
 In Lightning 5.8Sport2 Pitches180 ft
Bob and I gave Druid a second chance. Our goal was to toprope from anchors at the top of the lip. Surprise, surprise, there are no top anchors for In Lightning. There is only one set of anchors in the vicinity, and they are 20 feet to the left and would be helpful only for Lights Out or Bron-yr-aur. So after rigging from a huge boulder at the top (see picture), we used a doubled 100 foot rope to reach over the draggy lip, then tied our two 200 foot ropes together to do the 2 pitch climb all at once. From this position we were able to do all of In Lightening at one time, about 175 feet. That made it a very tiring route, so we only did a few climbs. Belaying with the significant rope drag was also an effort. We managed passing the knot by attaching a second belay device above the knot while the climber was in a safe zone and still attached to the first belay device.

Druid is a difficult setup for toprope. All of the routes appear to lean mixed or trad climbing. If you are a confident 5.8 or 5.9 leader, you'll do ok on the moderate routes. But, this is a confusing wall.
_____________________
Check out my Instagram posts at "cartershift", and my Youtubes at my channel "roy v carter".
Jun 15 2016
rvcarter
avatar

 Guides 33
 Routes 304
 Photos 2,146
 Triplogs 236

73 male
 Joined Mar 27 2008
 tucson, az
Mount Lemmon / DruidTucson, AZ
Tucson, AZ
Climbing avatar Jun 15 2016
rvcarter
Climbing
Climbing
 
Linked none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
 Admiral Throckmorton 5.8Toprope1 Pitch60 ft
Hard pull over the bulge, but Bob made it. Not many bolts but nice anchors over the bulge.
 Bloodly Likely 5.8Sport
Only the lower part
 In Lightning 5.8Sport2 Pitches180 ft
Only the lower part
 Corporal Punishment 5.9Toprope1 Pitch60 ft
Great route, but hard heel hook over the bulge, Bob made it. Bolted all the way and nice anchors over the bulge.
 Lights Out 5.10dSport1 Pitch75 ft
This is not the same as Lights out at 10 Candles out at 11, according to SQL III. What we did is just to the left of Bloody Likely and is a great 8+ or 9- 75 feet route that ends at the mid wall chains. You may have to manuever around some, but it is fun.
The wall has PM sun, but belayers will have shade all day. Nice, mostly two pitch, crag with some interesting, some might say confusing, routes that stop in the middle of nowhere, and cross over each other at will. Some good additional information on Mountain Project and in Squeezing the Lemmon III, without which I think one would have a hard time figuring out how to attack the wall. Next time we visit, we'll explore toproping opportunities, but I had a hard time seeing exactly where to drop a rope over the edge. Also, the belay stations are few and far between, meaning you'll have to use the anchors and chains at mid wall which have poor footing. However, the easy approach and cool temps at nearly 8000 feet will mean lots of use on Summer weekends. Based on Bob's grunting and panting while on lead, I would expect the leads to be a little harder than similar grades at, say, The Havens. I suggest starting/warming up with the two toprope routes over the bulge and go from there. Lovely view down Palisades Canyon, worth the trip out by itself.

One last thing, the FS does not want people to park in the Showers Point CG, but the camp host we talked to did not mind one dropping off gear at the water tank if the gate is open, which saves a couple hundred yards of carrying a heavy pack. There are climber's paths around both sides of the crag to the west and south walls. Both are hard, but they are short.
_____________________
Check out my Instagram posts at "cartershift", and my Youtubes at my channel "roy v carter".

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

help comment issue

end of page marker