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Promised Land / Valerie's Book - 2 members in 8 triplogs have rated this an average 4.5 ( 1 to 5 best )
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Dec 23 2018
friendofThunde
avatar

 Guides 18
 Routes 280
 Photos 7,723
 Triplogs 716

37 male
 Joined Jan 21 2013
 AZ
Promised Land / Valerie's BookPrescott, AZ
Prescott, AZ
Climbing avatar Dec 23 2018
friendofThundergod
Climbing
Climbing
 
Linked linked
Partners none no partners
 Pizan 5.9
Top Roped.
 Solito 5.975 ft
Listed as 5.9 + in MP. Carried a number one to protect on way to very run out first bolt, dropped it, because I am a newbie, continued on without, six bolts, ledge to arete, rap, or walk off, two bolts for anchor.
Two Sundays of projecting out here paid off with three leads today and a new PR 5.9 + lead. I bought my first cam for some extra protection to the first bolt because it is pretty run out. However, my first time placing trad gear without supervision ended when I dropped it 15 feet to the ground before ever getting it up to the crack. Oh well I embrace my newbie status and it got a good laugh out of Jackie. I continued on to first bolt. The rest of the route was a little more slow and methodical than when top roping, but I sent it pretty clean. Set up a top rope for Jackie and then had her lower me.
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1 archive
Dec 16 2018
friendofThunde
avatar

 Guides 18
 Routes 280
 Photos 7,723
 Triplogs 716

37 male
 Joined Jan 21 2013
 AZ
Promised Land / Valerie's BookPrescott, AZ
Prescott, AZ
Climbing avatar Dec 16 2018
friendofThundergod
Climbing1.50 Miles 200 AEG
Climbing1.50 Miles
200 ft AEG
 
Linked none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
 Solito 5.975 ft
 Black Cleft 5.10a
 Nappin 5.10a
I headed back to the Promised Land with Jackie. We top roped all of the routes. The chains for Black Cleft and Nappin were a little hard to reach, but I was able to build a pretty nice anchor from a semi precarious stretched position. Top roped all day, but had some real solid climbs nevertheless and sent a clean 5.10 a. I played around with a protected lead on Solito and got some good practice, but not ready to lead that one yet. A pretty scenic area, great temps and the dogs had a good time. We found a lot of glpys in the area.

Most will find the drive in to be a little bit of an adventure, see posted drive route under description.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Duck Tank 26-50% full 26-50% full
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9 archives
Apr 15 2018
jacobemerick
avatar

 Guides 31
 Routes 71
 Photos 795
 Triplogs 96

34 male
 Joined Dec 09 2014
 Gilbert, AZ
Promised Land / Valerie's BookPrescott, AZ
Prescott, AZ
Climbing avatar Apr 15 2018
jacobemerick
Climbing
Climbing
 no routes
1st trip
Linked none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
 Valerie Toprope 5.7
AMC Anchors class. Spent the day before setting up pro anchors at Upper Sullies, camped near Promised Land, and then Sunday was spent climbing on anchors we built. Met lots of great people and did a few climbs... well, I got most of the way up Valerie's and some unnamed 5.5ish routes. I need to work on my climbing some more. Anyways, beautiful area, good class, and awesome people.
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Not sure how I feel about @DallinW. Turns out he's an inch taller then me. I don't trust people who are taller then me...
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Mar 18 2013
clairebear
avatar

 Photos 178
 Triplogs 158

37 female
 Joined Oct 26 2011
 Tempe, AZ
Promised Land / Valerie's BookPrescott, AZ
Prescott, AZ
Climbing avatar Mar 18 2013
clairebear
Climbing
Climbing
 no routesno photosets
1st trip
Linked none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
 Valerie 5.7
 Pizan 5.9
 Black Cleft 5.10a
 Nappin 5.10a
Headed out late on Friday nite with Liz, Adam, and Eric ( k- Shawn) to so we could camp at the Promised Land and just start in the morning. Loni, Jen and Eric ( Heric) joined up with us at the camp. On the way we commented on how aptly named this place is since we drove back and forth on the dirt roads for an hour trying to find it.
7 sleepy climbers finally set up their tents and crashed out at 1am.

I could not believe it was 9:45 when I woke up the next morning~. Charlie and his friend Ronnie and his wolf Nina joined up with us two in the morning and after tearing up camp finally we made our way to the crag. I was very entertained on the hike in when somehow the subject of Ligers came up and Liz informed me that they are a real animal? (not just Napoleon Dynamites favorite animal breed for its skills in magic)

Ok, random stuff aside I do love this hike in. It was my third time climbing here and this area never disappoints. I love the conglamorate rocks that rise up from the wash just before the climbing area.

1st climb Eric (K-shawn) put up a 10A to the Left of Valeries Book. It was a little more than I bargained for as a warm up and the stemming felt very exposed, but still fun.
We did the two 5.9's and then most of the guys split so they could go work on Solomon.
Heric put up a really fun(HARD) trad route to the left of Valerie's book.

I was really hoping to get back over to the 10's on the far right of Solomon Wall, but when we got over there it was getting dark. Heric put up the route and then came off when the inclimate weather came in. These are currently my favotire routes. Super fun overhang with great holds. Also the rock at the promised land does not shred my hands like other places.

Liz shared some beers with us before the hike out ~sitting just below my favorite 10's. Pretty sublime way to end a great day.
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Nov 18 2012
trekkin_gecko
avatar

 Guides 5
 Routes 343
 Photos 4,106
 Triplogs 2,607

61 female
 Joined Nov 17 2008
 phoenix, az
Promised Land / SolomanPrescott, AZ
Prescott, AZ
Climbing avatar Nov 18 2012
trekkin_gecko
Climbing2.00 Miles 500 AEG
Climbing2.00 Miles
500 ft AEG
 no routesno photosets
1st trip
Partners partners
johnr1
 Cupcake 5.5Toprope1 Pitch40 ft
 Delilah 5.7Toprope1 Pitch50 ft
 C.O.B.S Route 5.8Toprope1 Pitch60 ft
john and i signed on for the AMC anchors class over the weekend
saturday's session was held at upper sullivans canyon, where we practiced setting protection and rigging anchors at a number of stations with different scenarios
we were able to put up anchors using natural features and gear, learning a variety of techniques
sunday was at the promised land
our assignment was to set an anchor that we would all climb on for the day
john and i set a solid anchor for cupcake, which we rigorously tested by climbing it twice each
the rest of the day we were free to climb on the routes the other students had set
we got in 7-8 climbs on interesting rock
some of the climbs were unknown routes, where an instructor just picked a line for a toprope
two climbs were on shot wall, not on the bolted routes but one on an arete/face, the other up a large crack with several bulges to get over
moved back to solomon wall and climbed delilah and c.o.b.s. route, which ended up being our favorite of the day
got in another unknown route on valerie's book, and i was able to climb valerie before we tore everything down
nice area, excellent experience gained, and another fun excursion with john
would like to go back there one more time, maybe for lead class, as there are four more good routes on valerie's book i'd like to try
maybe i can talk john into coming along to belay my simulated trad lead :)
great to have so many instructors volunteer their time - well worth the cost of the class
even had good weather; thought it might be cold up there
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Nov 18 2012
johnr1
avatar

 Guides 4
 Routes 17
 Photos 8
 Triplogs 340

72 male
 Joined Dec 22 2007
 tempe, az
Promised Land / SolomanPrescott, AZ
Prescott, AZ
Climbing avatar Nov 18 2012
johnr1
Climbing2.00 Miles 500 AEG
Climbing2.00 Miles
500 ft AEG
 no routesno photosets
1st trip
Partners partners
trekkin_gecko
 Cupcake 5.5Toprope
 Delilah 5.7Toprope
 C.O.B.S Route 5.8Toprope
Kelly and I attended the AMC anchors class which ended with two days in the field building anchors and climbing on them. The outdoor activity was at Sullivan's Canyon and the Promised land. All the climbing was at the Promised land which is NE of Chino valley at the end of a long rough approach road,
The climbing was excellent with cool but not cold temps and nice sunshine. AMC has a neat place for the class since you can easily access the top of most climbs for setting anchors. Many routes were set and we got in 7 climbs together and 1 more for Kelly. The most interesting route was the COBS one which was long and challenging.

It will be fun to go back and lead some of these routes as most are bolted though a bit thinly.
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Sep 16 2012
trekkin_gecko
avatar

 Guides 5
 Routes 343
 Photos 4,106
 Triplogs 2,607

61 female
 Joined Nov 17 2008
 phoenix, az
Promised Land / Valerie's BookPrescott, AZ
Prescott, AZ
Climbing avatar Sep 16 2012
trekkin_gecko
Climbing2.00 Miles 300 AEG
Climbing2.00 Miles
300 ft AEG
 no routesno photosets
1st trip
Linked linked
Partners partners
johnr1
 Valerie 5.7Toprope
 Solito 5.9Toprope
john was taking the lead class with the arizona mountaineering club last week and he arranged for me to tag along on sunday
the promised land is north of chino valley
the drive in is difficult both in terms of direction and road condition, but john's racing background was helpful, as was following someone who knew where they were going
several documented routes on two walls in a nice little canyon, and i understand there are more routes further down
i was able to listen in on some of the lead class presentations, help belay on a practice trad lead, and participate in some of the stations
picked up some very useful general climbing knowledge even though i may never place a piece of gear
once the instructional part of the day was over, we were free to climb
john and i hit cupcake on soloman wall, which is a 5.5 that begged to be led
the amc didn't want anyone leading, so we did respected that and utilized the toprope set up
next moved over to valerie's book and climbed solito and valerie
fun climbing with good edges and handholds
sometimes it's nice to climb on toprope and not worry about leading
finished the day with a nice dinner at bonn fire in chino valley
thanks for arranging this john, really had a nice time, and always enjoy climbing with you
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Sep 16 2012
johnr1
avatar

 Guides 4
 Routes 17
 Photos 8
 Triplogs 340

72 male
 Joined Dec 22 2007
 tempe, az
Promised Land / Valerie's BookPrescott, AZ
Prescott, AZ
Climbing avatar Sep 16 2012
johnr1
Climbing2.00 Miles 300 AEG
Climbing2.00 Miles   7 Hrs      4.00 mph
300 ft AEG   6 Hrs   30 Mns Break
 no routesno photosets
1st trip
Linked linked
Partners partners
trekkin_gecko
everything but a parting of the waters to get there. Attended 2 days of AMC lead climbing course with practical focus on TRAD climbing. I got to place protection and climb on it in a controlled environment. Loved the experience and looking forward to trying out the process for real.

Kelly came along to make sure I had trustworthy belay and promised her we could climb. AMC courses are about the best value per dollar in the buisness. We both learned a lot and had fun in the process
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