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Alaska Basin Trail - 7 members in 12 triplogs have rated this an average 5 ( 1 to 5 best )
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Aug 21 2021
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 Guides 15
 Routes 80
 Photos 1,253
 Triplogs 971

49 male
 Joined Apr 30 2008
 Tucson, AZ
The Teton CrestYellowstone, WY
Yellowstone, WY
Hiking avatar Aug 21 2021
azdesertfatherTriplogs 971
Hiking38.83 Miles 7,074 AEG
Hiking38.83 Miles   16 Hrs   47 Mns   2.31 mph
7,074 ft AEG45 LBS Pack
 no routes
1st trip
Epic hike across the TCT.

Day 1: Started at Teton Village, took the gondola partway up the mountain, then hiked the rest of the way to the edge of Rendezvous Summit, following South Fork over to Marion Lake. This hike took much longer than expected, as 3 hours into the hike we hit a major thunderstorm, that dumped 1-2" of rain for 16 straight hours. We were literally toward the end taking a step up the mountain trails and sliding back in the mud before we could take another step up. Even with ponchos and backpack shields, everyone's stuff was completely soaked. I wore a heavy duty trash bag and ziploc-bagged all my clothes, so I at least had dry clothes to put on, but others in the group did not and one person became borderline hypothermic. Thankful for my Wilderness First Aid training, knowing how to deal with it to restore his core temp, as rescue would have totally been out of the question during this severe storm. Thunderstorm continued into the night, with the rain turning to sleet and snow during the early morning hours, and two people's tents flooded. Just brutal.

Day 2: Storm cleared at 6am, and we had sunlight breaking through clouds by 9am. Spent the morning using sunlight to dry out clothes and gear on rocks and in trees. Made good time that afternoon, getting to Fox Creek Pass and hiking across Death Canyon Shelf to just outside the park boundary for our next camp. That area not ideal for camping, but we found a mesa that was relatively flat to camp on, and during the night another storm came. This one had some rain, but a LOT of wind. We estimated 60-65mph winds for about a half hour. I was literally spread eagle in my tent at 4:30am, with one and and one foot in each corner, trying to help the tent pegs hold!

Day 3: Hiked into Alaska Basin, then to Sunset Lake and over Hurricane Pass. Visited Schoolroom Glacier and the lake that the glacier made below it, as we hiked down South Fork Cascade to our campsite. While setting up camp we had a visit by a black bear, who didn't seem particularly interested in us, he was too busy flipping over boulders looking for insects to eat. Views from camp of Grand Teton were breathtaking! Hike partly on the Avalanche trail, but didn't go all the way due to ominous-looking weather that thankfully was just a threat this time.

Day 4: Hiked to North Fork Cascade and all the way to Lake Solitude, then back down to the lowest campsite along North Fork for the night. A couple of our crew jumped into the lake, which up until a few days prior still had blocks of ice floating in it. I was either too smart or too old to follow behind them.

Day 5: Hiked out Cascade Canyon to Jenny Lake, stopping off at Inspiration Point and Hidden Falls on the way out. Took the boat ride across the lake, and to the store to buy a peach slushie (yum!). Then made it to Dornan's Chuckwagon in neighboring Moose for a bison burger, and then to Colter Bay Campground for a desperately needed shower, the first in 6 days. :sk:

RECOMMENDATION: I used Peak freeze-dried meals on this hike instead of Mountain House. Way more protein, and more tasty by a mile! The Mountain Housers in our group were totally jealous, wishing they had spent the extra couple of bucks per meal!
 Fauna
 Fauna [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Black Bear
_____________________
"I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived." — Henry David Thoreau
  1 archive
Aug 08 2021
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 Guides 1
 Routes 39
 Photos 568
 Triplogs 76

male
 Joined May 28 2019
 Phoenix, AZ
Grand Teton Super Loop, WY 
Grand Teton Super Loop, WY
 
Backpack avatar Aug 08 2021
kyleGChikerTriplogs 76
Backpack44.19 Miles 12,682 AEG
Backpack44.19 Miles4 Days   23 Hrs   22 Mns   
12,682 ft AEG45 LBS Pack
 
1st trip
For our vacation this year, we did a trip to Grand Teton National Park, six awesome days of backpacking in a giant loop around the peaks. The itinerary was as follows:
  • Day 1: Up Cascade Canyon to South Fork
  • Day 2: Up and over Hurricane Pass to the Alaska Basin
  • Day 3: Up and over Static Peak Divide, climb Static Peak, and down into Death Canyon
  • Day 4: Down to Phelps Lake
  • Day 5: Across to Bradley Lake
  • Day 6: Hike out to Lupine Meadows Trailhead
Intro: I've been wanting to do this backpacking trip ever since we first backpacked in the Tetons in 2013. Up until this summer, we've been busy going other places like Alaska and traveling abroad. However, this year, in early January, I signed up on recreation.gov for a permit for this itinerary and I got it! Only 1/3 of the permits are reservable in advance, so if I hadn't gotten a permit, we would have still driven up there and tried to get a walkup permit.

The hike: August is a good month to go to the Tetons. Not only were there lots of wildflowers (50+ individual species!), but the weather was relatively good. The daytime temperatures were in the 80's, so a little warm in the afternoon, but being from Arizona, it didn't feel too bad. Nighttime temperatures were around 50 at the lower elevations, and as cold as 32 the night in the Alaska Basin (frost on tent).

Day 1: The hike up Cascade Canyon begins with a boat ride across Jenny Lake (saves 2.5 miles of hiking :lol: ). Then the next milestone is Inspiration Point, which sits at about 800 feet above Jenny Lake. It is a great view indeed! After Inspiration Point, the trail becomes much more gradual and goes all the way to the junction of north and south forks. We were going to the south and continued for another couple hours until we got to about the midpoint of the south fork. Our campsite was off on the left side of the trail, near Cascade Creek, with a great view looking to the north towards Paintbrush divide. For further altitude acclimation, after arriving at camp, we hiked another 500 feet vertical, stayed there a little while, then went back down. Supposedly it helps with the acclimation. Maybe it worked, because none of us had any problems with altitude, even up to 11,308 feet on Static Peak later in the trip.

Day 2: Today, we had to go up and over Hurricane Pass to get into the Alaska Basin on the other side. When I initially reserved the trip itinerary, there was of course some doubt as to whether the snow would all be melted out, or whether we would encounter large snowbanks. With plenty of hot weather this summer, all the snow was melted out and we had a nice trail to hike on the entire way. My mom was pretty worried about this day because she is scared of heights, but it turned out to not be scary at all, even in her opinion. Perhaps she read too many scary stories online about 50+ mph winds, and deep snowbanks that you need an ice axe to traverse. Along the way up to the pass, we stopped by "Schoolroom Lake", my unofficial name for the lake at the base of Schoolroom glacier. Due to the silt in the water, the color was very different than normal lakes, yet similar to many alpine and glacial lakes. The water was very cold. When we noticed a marmot on the other side of the lake heading toward our backpacks, we figured it was time to go. At the top of the next switchback, there is a spur trail that leads you right up to the glacier itself. Definitely take the time to visit the glacier! It is a very unique experience getting to walk right up to it, eat some snow from it, and look around. I was even able to traverse across a small rock ledge (right alongside a 30-40 foot deep crevasse! :scared: ) and climb inside the glacier into a large "ice cave". The ceiling was approximately 30 feet high, and the cave went back about 100 feet. Due to the potential danger being inside a glacier, and not wanting to fall into a crevasse, I only went back 10 or 20 feet. At that point, it got a little steeper, with about a 10 foot drop immediately to my right. Not the best of places to get stuck... I'm assuming this was only possible due to the extra hot weather this summer, such that in normal years, going inside the glacier is not possible, so keep this in mind if you ever visit it and don't try to do something dangerous just because "some guy on HikeArizona went inside the glacier in 2021." You're responsible for your own safety and glaciers are certainly nothing to mess around with. Even with it being pretty melted out, it was still pretty sketchy, and the rest of my family was too scared to go inside the ice cave. The rest of the hike was fairly uneventful. At Hurricane Pass, you actually exit the national park and enter the wilderness area, so we met a lot of hikers doing the Teton crest trail, but only camping outside the park, hence a camping permit was not necessary. Smart thinking if you ask me! After descending down on the other side, the first lake we arrived at is called Sunset Lake. Many people camp at this lake. In fact, we decided it was too crowded so we moved on. We estimate there were about 12 groups camping there on whatever random Monday evening it was in August. Instead, we camped at the Basin Lakes, and chose one where no one else was so we had the whole lake to ourselves! It was absolutely gorgeous, as you'll see when I post my photoset soon. My mom even said it's probably her favorite place she's ever camped. And that's saying a lot because we've gone a lot of places. In my opinion, it was second only to the Wind Rivers, which still hold a special place in my heart due to spending my 17th birthday there.

Day 3: Today was the day I was most excited about of the whole trip. If the weather was good, we were planning to climb Static Peak! Obviously, you wouldn't want to climb it in a thunderstorm, if the name is any indication. :lol: We woke up to some frost on the tent, indicating that the temperatures were around 32 degrees, though it didn't feel that cold. After exploring most of the other basin lakes, we headed up the trail, which climbed steadily to Buck Mountain Pass. The views were incredible, especially looking behind us towards Idaho. Upon reaching Buck Mountain Pass, we were greeted by large boulder fields, which spanned most of the distance from us to Static Peak Divide. There was also a small lake down below at the base of the boulder field. After reaching Static Peak Divide, it got substantially windier, so we prepared for a windy ascent up to the summit, putting on rain pants and jackets simply for comfort. Wind speeds were probably around 20 mph sustained, with gusts much stronger than that. The actual climb to the summit was quite easy, just 800 or so vertical feet on a well-defined use path. Even if the path wasn't there, it's very straightforward where you need to go--to the highest point! At the top, we enjoyed some time alone, and then another hiker joined us, a young lady who lives in the area and teaches at the ski school in the winter. It was quite fun to hear her stories of skiing the slopes of the Tetons, climbing the Grand, and many other adventures! When it was finally time to leave (there was much more smoke rolling in around this time, making the view less enjoyable), we began the loooong descent into Death Canyon. Those 5 miles are definitely the longest 5 miles of my life. Each switchback is about 0.5 miles long. It feels like you're just going down and down and down forever. But eventually we made it. Once at the junction in Death Canyon, we had to hike upstream till we got to the camping zone, which was further than we realized it was. We took the first campsite (thankfully it was available!) and quickly prepared dinner before nightfall. Needless to say, we enjoyed a good long sleep that night.

Day 4: After filtering water from a spring just up the trail from camp, my mom and I enjoyed a hike up to the Group campsite along the Death Canyon trail, all while my sister was still sleeping. Eventually, we worked our way back to camp, amazed at all the downed trees in upper Death Canyon, and thankful for the dozens of trail crew that were out working on the situation. From what we could gather, there was a big storm around Labor Day, 2020, which knocked down hundreds of trees in 100+ mph winds. Last summer still they had cleared the logs that fell across the trail, but there was still tons of work to do this season, including clearing out the approximately half of the campsites that were not usable because of all the trees that fell in them. Since it's a national park, they said they're not permitted to harvest the wood for logging purposes, but can use some of it for reinforcing trails and building structures as needed (tent pads, stairs, etc.) Enough about that, eventually around lunch time we headed out and did the short few miles down to Phelps Lake, where my dad joined us. He hadn't done the rest of the hike up to this point due to not handling high altitudes as well and still recovering from being sick. We enjoyed the rest of the afternoon in the Phelps Lake area, where it was reported that there was a mother black bear and her 2 cubs (or 3 cubs, depending on which sources you trust :-k ) but we never saw them in our 12+ hours hanging out around the lake. We were one of three groups camped at Phelps Lake, and it was especially beautiful at sunrise the next morning.

Day 5: After breakfast, we headed out from Phelps Lake and began the ~8 mile trek to Bradley Lake. It was not a terribly difficult day, although we all noticed how hot it was now that we were down in the valley. Also, despite being "flat", there was a lot of up and down, such that the accumulated elevation plot showed more like 1,000 ft for the day. Overall, there was nothing terribly exciting this day, except adding about 30 species to our wildflower count. Taggart Lake was nice, as was Bradley Lake. It was cool seeing the peaks from the front side, rather than the back side on days 1 and 2. Bradley Lake is nice because there is only one campsite, reserved only for those that are doing loop trips. I got some cool pictures on the shores of the lake with the milky way and the mountains and the lake.

Day 6: A short hike out to Lupine Meadows Trailhead, where my dad had already staged our car. This ended up working out perfectly, because it allowed us to get up to Yellowstone and see a bunch of good geysers still the same day. Met some folks going on an overnight trip to go climb Middle Teton. Middle and South Tetons are both on my radar screen for great future hikes!

Overall, this was a great trip, one of my favorite backpacking trips of all time! The Tetons are such a beautiful place--if you're never been there, you need to go ASAP! :M2C:
 Fauna
 Fauna [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Marmot (Hoary)
 Culture
 Culture [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  HAZ Food
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Substantial
50+ species observed over the course of the trip, mostly on the valley trail between Phelps Lake and Lupine Meadows Trailhead.
  5 archives
Jul 04 2021
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 Guides 30
 Routes 445
 Photos 10,028
 Triplogs 947

40 male
 Joined Jan 21 2013
 AZ
Alaska Basin TrailYellowstone, WY
Yellowstone, WY
Climbing avatar Jul 04 2021
FOTGTriplogs 947
Climbing1.00 Miles 200 AEG
Climbing1.00 Miles
200 ft AEG
 no routes
1st trip
Linked   none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
I have been staying in Pinedale since last Thursday. I spent my first few days hiking some fringe areas that I have not been to before and waiting out a little weather system for a potential trip into the backcountry. Yesterday, I drove a couple of hours to Idaho to climb in Wyoming.

This area is an extremely popular area and the trailhead was almost sickening busy. Of course the weekend and holiday were contributing factors to this, but I was pretty shocked at the amount of people hiking this trail. Nevertheless, the climbing was fun, the setting was amazing and the nature of a couple of the multipitch routes provided a sense of adventure. The rock was granite and relatively featured for granite too, which made the climbing fun. Climbs in the area ranged from five fun easy trad lines to extremely technical sport lines up to 5.14a and a few multipitch routes. I really enjoyed the morning out climbing and the cost of entry could not be much lower, the first crag we went to and main wall is about a ten minute approach from the trailhead. In fact, the formidable main wall can be seen as you pull up to the trailhead. A little warm though, we climbed until there was no shade. I can't imagine climbing on those walls in direct summer sun.

Happy Fourth of July!
_____________________
  2 archives
Jun 30 2019
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 Guides 6
 Routes 174
 Photos 5,442
 Triplogs 1,640

male
 Joined Mar 12 2004
 Scottsdale, AZ
Alaska Basin TrailYellowstone, WY
Yellowstone, WY
Hiking avatar Jun 30 2019
John9LTriplogs 1,640
Hiking12.23 Miles 1,950 AEG
Hiking12.23 Miles   4 Hrs   32 Mns   2.80 mph
1,950 ft AEG      10 Mns Break
 
1st trip
Linked   none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
Lee was heading out on his three week road trip to Banff & Wyoming and asked if I wanted to join him. I tried recruiting the others but it didn’t work out and I decided to head up solo & I’m glad I did. I bought my plane ticket less than a week before I would fly out. Ultimately, I would spend a week in Wyoming. I did a mix of solo day hiking and met up with Lee & a few other people for an outstanding backpacking trip to the Wind River Range.

I flew out of Mesa Gateway on the 6:10am flight to Idaho Falls. It was early but this gave me time to adventure after arriving. The flight went extremely well and I rented a car and stopped for groceries and then headed for Wyoming. I went to buy Bear Spray but everything is closed in Idaho Falls on Sunday! The drive to Alaska Basin took just under two hours and I started hiking around 11am Az time.

The going is very easy as you follow a well developed trail that has a slight incline. There were plenty of people out but the area was not crowded. I passed a couple of people on horseback and continued in. I kept a moderate pace and enjoyed the cool mountain air. I kept at it and started encountering snow around 4-5 miles in. The snow levels quickly increased and travel became more difficult. I was tired after the early wake up time and the flight. I went a little farther and encountered a wet crossing through swift water. I looked for a safe way across and didn’t like my options so I decided to turn around.

After turning around, I climbed up and off trail to a nice vantage point where I took a break and ate some snacks and soaked in the views. I was out here two years ago with the guys and I passed through about a mile from here. Unfortunately I couldn’t get to that point because of the snow. Regardless, I was so happy to be back in Wyoming. The air was cool and comfortable!

I eventually started my return and flew down the trail. Along the way I saw a solo female moose about 100ft off the trail. I took a few pics and continued down. I arrived back to the rental car and loaded up and headed to my hostel, which was close by, for the night. I was off to a good start. My plan is to drive around to the east side of the Tetons the next day to do some day hikes before meeting Lee.
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  1 archive
Jul 20 2017
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 Routes 67
 Photos 2,708
 Triplogs 755

87 male
 Joined Mar 28 2008
 Phoenix, AZ
The Teton CrestYellowstone, WY
Yellowstone, WY
Backpack avatar Jul 20 2017
Tough_BootsTriplogs 755
Backpack40.10 Miles 9,057 AEG
Backpack40.10 Miles4 Days         
9,057 ft AEG
 no routes
1st trip
That 9L really knows how to put together a trip. This one had been in the works for a while and luckily Lee was already up that way and could join us. It was a heavy snow year and we'd been nervous for a while about if we could complete it or not. There were two spots we were worried about. Luckily, Hurricane Pass was no problem. The Paintbrush Divide ended up being intimidating but nothing that microspikes, ice-axes, and determination couldn't conquer. I would absolutely love to spend more time in the Grand Tetons. Its a beautiful range with so much character. I think we caught it at the absolutely perfect time. It was four days of snow and wildflowers.
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Jul 20 2017
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 Guides 84
 Routes 750
 Photos 18,567
 Triplogs 1,767

50 male
 Joined Sep 18 2002
 Tempe, AZ
The Teton CrestYellowstone, WY
Yellowstone, WY
Backpack avatar Jul 20 2017
chumleyTriplogs 1,767
Backpack42.14 Miles 9,514 AEG
Backpack42.14 Miles4 Days         
9,514 ft AEG
 
1st trip
:y: :y: :y:

:D Five HAZopellis for sure! :D

Day 1: Granite Canyon Trail
9.07 miles / 2,684 aeg / 4:34
We parked our car at Leigh Lake trailhead and shuttled via a cab to the Granite Trailhead. The trail climbed steadily through forested terrain along a fast flowing creek. There are a couple of camping zones along the trail with numerous marked campsites. Very few of them are suitable for four tents, but the couple of group sites have more space. Permits assign you to a zone, not a specific site, so you may not be able to camp where you want. We didn't have that problem since we were the only people we saw who were heading up canyon that day. We set up camp near the top of the Upper Granite camp zone just a few minutes before a thunderstorm sent us into our tents. An hour or two later it cleared up and we had a pleasant night at camp.

Day 2: Upper Granite to Alaska Basin
11.15 miles / 2,614 aeg / 7:25
The day started with a short but healthy climb to Marion Lake before ascending farther to the crest and entering the National Forest and Jedediah Smith Wilderness. The next two miles to Fox Creek Pass featured expansive views across the Teton high country. From Fox Creek Pass, it was about 3 miles on the Death Canyon Shelf, with the stunningly beautiful Death Canyon dropping toward the valley below us. Next we climbed the gentle ascent to Mount Meek Pass before descending the Sheep Steps into Alaska Basin. We were all absolutely exhausted at this point, but opted to push another 1.5 miles to Sunset Lake for to camp. To get there, the trail climbs about 400 feet, but it felt like 1000! We camped in some trees northwest of the lake because the prime spot on the cliff above the lake was still snowed in.

Day 3: Alaska Basin to North Fork Cascade
10.14 miles / 2,034 aeg / 5:22
After an exhausting day 2, we were all excited for an easy day 3. :) Of course, it started with a 1000 foot climb to Hurricane Pass, but with fresh morning legs it went fairly quickly. Hurricane Pass brings you up close and personal with the majestic peaks of the Tetons, and drops to the base of Schoolroom Glacier. From here, the trail descends through the very scenic South Fork Cascade Canyon. It seemed a little strange here because we suddenly encountered a moderate number of touristy day hikers, which is unusual for the middle of a backpacking trip. But this canyon is a popular day hike from the valley below and at just 6 miles from the canyon forks to the trailhead, day hikers willing to put 12-15+ miles on a hike can get pretty far up here.

Instead of heading down canyon toward the trailhead however, we turned left and headed up North Fork Cascade Canyon toward Lake Solitude. A roaring stream runs in the middle of the valley, and the down-valley views back to the rugged peaks were some of the best of the trip.

We settled in to a campsite that was smaller than we would have preferred. Like Granite Canyon, the permit is for the zone, not a specific site. Due to it's proximity to the valley (7-8 miles) via the Cascade Canyon Trail, the best sites here go early.

Day 4: North Fork Cascade to Leigh Lake
11.78 miles / 2,189 aeg / 6:21
This was always going to be the most difficult day. We knew that Paintbrush Divide was still snow covered and crossing it would require mountaineering gear. We were all equipped with ice axes and opted for microspikes over full crampons. The initial climb brought us past the still-icy Lake Solitude before climbing an amazing trail cut that climbs a single traverse for over a mile before making two long switchbacks to the divide. The quality of trail and the views on this climb are in my top 5.

Once reaching the divide we were happy that there was evidence of somebody having descended the snowfield before us, but not very happy with how challenging and dangerous it looked. Kudos to Lee for not letting us think about it too long or introduce second thoughts ... :app:

The descent was slow and deliberate. None of us desired to test our amateur self-arrest skills on this slope so the goal was prevention. The snow was getting a slushy, and the sun was unrelentingly hot. I've never been so warm hiking downhill. In the snow. Half an hour later, we had made it to dry ground again, and we all breathed a sigh of relief. From here down there was plenty of snow cover, but nothing nearly as harrowing as the divide had been, and I even managed a fun little glissade on one slope. :DANCE:

We took a break at Holly Lake before dropping down out of the snow and following the trail back the final 7 miles down Paintbrush Canyon to the truck at Leigh Lake.

Final Thoughts
Channeling my inner Jerry Springer!
This was an amazing trip with good team effort. Thank you to 9L for doing the permit legwork and planning. FOTG saved us a few $ in rental cars and shuttles by making this a stop on his drive home from Montana. And tough_boots was the sacrificial hiker who would fall back in case of a grizzly attack :o (not sure we told him that, but it didn't matter since that never happened :sweat: ). And we all supported each other through the new challenge of descending a snowy pass. :app:

We were probably two weeks early due to the heavy snow pack from last winter. But despite the challenges of traveling in snow, the scenery of rugged mountain peaks and valleys dotted with snow combined with fields of wildflowers is unparalleled. I would love to return to the Tetons and explore more of this majestic range! :)
 Flora
 Flora [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Glacier Lily
 Fauna
 Fauna [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Moose
 Meteorology
 Meteorology [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Avalanche  Sunset
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Light
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two scoops!
  1 archive
Jul 20 2017
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 Guides 6
 Routes 174
 Photos 5,442
 Triplogs 1,640

male
 Joined Mar 12 2004
 Scottsdale, AZ
The Teton CrestYellowstone, WY
Yellowstone, WY
Backpack avatar Jul 20 2017
John9LTriplogs 1,640
Backpack40.34 Miles 9,167 AEG
Backpack40.34 Miles4 Days         
9,167 ft AEG
 
1st trip
The idea for this trip started over a year ago when I saw triplogs from @Lucyan and @MikeS. Their pics looked amazing and I knew this was a hike for us. I talked to Chumley and he was just as excited as me. From there the planning began and FOTG & Kyle were both down. I did some research and was at my PC ready to go the morning the permits went on sale back in early January on Recreation.gov. Once we had the permit the rest of the details were planned. Airfare was a bit pricey so we decided to spend a week in Wyoming. The first four days will be backpacking the Teton Crest followed by two days in Yellowstone and one final day back in Jackson Hole where we would catch a flight home in the late afternoon. The days and weeks ticked by and we flew out on Wednesday, July 19th.

We arrived in Jackson Hole around mid-afternoon and met FOTG at the airport. From there we drove to the Tetons Visitor Center and acquired our permit. We went over current conditions and they strongly recommended an ice axe. Kyle and Chumley already had one but FOTG and myself needed one. So from there we drove into town and stopped by the Teton Backcountry Rental where we both rented an Ice Axe for twenty five bucks. After that we checked into our hotel, bought groceries, ate dinner and arranged our shuttle. We went with Daniel’s Cash Cab 307-413-3770. The rest of the evening involved packing and final preparations. All the months of planning were over and it was time to hit the trail!




Day 1 – Thursday, July 20th. Granite Canyon to Upper Granite Canyon
We met our shuttle driver at the Leigh Lake Trailhead around 9am and were shuttled to the Granite Canyon Trailhead to the south. We geared up and headed up the trail. The going is fairly easy with a steady gain. It was a warm and humid day and all of us were sweating in no time. We continued on as the trail parallels a creek heading up canyon. We took some short breaks and only saw a handful of people.

As we got farther back we noticed storm clouds moving in. We were hoping to beat them to camp before rain started falling. We selecting a campsite about a half mile above the group campsite and set up camp right before the rain started falling. We all climbed into our tents as the skies opened. Rain & hail fell as thunder crackled around us. It wasn’t too bad and lasted less than an hour. The rest of the evening was spent relaxing around camp. Fires are not allowed so we put on our jackets to keep warm. Sunset was around 9pm so we had lots of daylight. All of us turned in by 10pm and that was the end of day one.

Day 2 – Friday, July 21st. Upper Granite Canyon to Sunset Lake
Our day two started slowly as we took our time in camp and packed everything up. We hit the trail and started the solid climb to Marion Lake. About a mile up the trail we encountered our first snow. It was patchy as we walked over and around it. Our big concern was post holing but didn’t have any issues. We continued on and passed Marion Lake which is spectacular. We wish we camped here but didn’t have a permit for this zone.

Next up was the Death Canyon Shelf which I was really looking forward to. There were more patches of snow and we passed a few groups going the opposite direction. They gave us an update on the conditions and said they couldn’t get over Paintbrush Divide. They only had one ice axe among a medium size group and that wasn’t going to cut it. We kept at it and really enjoyed the views down Death Canyon. I’d love to return here for a trip down this canyon. It looks awesome! We took a lunch break overlooking the canyon and continued on from there.

We encountered more snow as we neared Alaska Basin and the trail makes a steep drop into the basin. I was glad I had hiking poles because this helped with balance. Once we got into the basin we talked with a national forest employee. He asked us to be bear aware and take proper bear precautions with our food. We told him we were from Arizona and he asked a bunch of questions about the Superstitions. It took little convincing and he is all about a trip this spring! After our chat we took a short break near one of the basin lakes and then continued one more mile to Sunset Lake. We encountered quite a bit of snow through here and it sucked energy. We were all glad to reach the lake and took off our packs and relaxed!

Sunset Lake is a beautiful alpine lake that sits a bit below 10K. We had a wonderful campsite with plenty of space. Our campsite was surrounded by marmots too. They were all over and we counted eight at one moment. We enjoyed a relaxing evening and were in bed again before 10pm.

Day 3 – Saturday, July 22nd. Sunset Lake to North Fork Cascade Canyon
Our third day was going to be big. We had to cross Hurricane Pass and then drop down South Fork of Cascade Canyon and then head up the North Fork where we planned on camping. We left camp around 9am and had roughly a thousand feet to climb to the pass. We talked to some other hikers and they said Hurricane Pass was mostly snow free with some patches about a mile below the pass. This was a relief knowing we have fairly easy going.

We made the long climb to the pass and encountered one steep snow field. FOTG opted to put on Micro Spikes to safely cross. The rest of us scrambled around the snow field. Once above it was easy going all the way to the pass. Once we arrived at Hurricane Pass we were greeted with epic views of the peaks and Cascade Canyon. One of the best features is Schoolroom Glacier. It’s a frozen lake surrounded by a moraine. It made us think of Global Warming. This glacier will probably dry up in my lifetime and it will be a tragic loss. After admiring the views we dropped down into Cascade Canyon and continued north. There were a few patches of snow that took some careful footwork but nothing serious. The snow disappeared as we continued dropping and we set a quick pace as we headed for our low point.

The crowds picked up as we descended and we met a volunteer ranger who checked our permit. She was very friendly and was excited about our itinerary. After that we continued down and then started the climb up North Fork of Cascade Canyon. Today is Saturday and this canyon was very busy. We were concerned on finding a good campsite, especially one that can accommodate four tents. We ultimately found one that was tight but we made it work. We spent another afternoon enjoying the pleasant weather and our epic view of Grand Teton Peak!

Day 4 – Sunday, July 23rd. North Fork Cascade to Paintbrush Canyon and exit the park
We decided to start early on our final day in the park. We were on trail at 7am hoping the snow would be firm by the time we started our descent from Paintbrush Divide. We had to climb nearly 2,000 ft over three miles to the high point of our hike at 10,700ft. The going went well as we passed Lake Solitude and continued on the immaculate trail up. It makes a long traverse followed by a couple of switchbacks. We hit a patch of snow around 10K ft and decided to put on our Micro Spikes and get out the Ice Axe. There were two sections clustered together and I’m glad we hit them. This gave us a chance to get a feel for the snow and our equipment. Once we were over the snow we put our gear away and continued on to the Paintbrush Divide.

I was the first to arrive at the Paintbrush Divide and noticed the epic views down canyon. There was a lot of snow we’re going to need to deal with and this gave me some anxiety. It helped seeing a couple heading down. They passed through before us so I knew the route was doable. There are two routes from Paintbrush Divide. The normal summer route where the trail heads down and the winter route. The trail could not be accessed due to a large block of snow. You would need technical gear to safely pass over the snow here. I checked out the winter route and thought it looked steep but safer. The snow continues down and out. There was no threat of rocks in the event you cannot arrest your fall. Chumley and FOTG both wanted to do the summer route and there was no looking back once the decision was made. We didn’t waste time thinking about it. We geared up and went!

FOTG went first and set the pace. It will be slow going as he dug out steps started by groups before us. I followed and took my time. Every step was slow going as I carefully went one step at a time constantly repositioning my Ice Axe. There were a few times where my downhill foot slipped an inch or two on soft snow. This made my heart skip a beat. The Mircro Spikes helped and I couldn’t do this without the Ice Axe. I had my phone stowed away and didn’t take any pics along the traverse. I barely looked back at Chumley and Kyle fifty feet behind me. It was one foot in front of the other all the way until we were back on solid ground. I was elated after safely crossing the snow field. This was the first time I’ve ever done anything like this. It was a hell of a rush!

Once everyone was down it was fairly easy going. We still had snow fields to cross but none were as treacherous as the descent off the pass. We continued down and saw some day hikers exploring the area. We knew we were home free! We took a short break at Holly Lake and then continued down. The snow disappeared as we got below 9K ft and our pace picked up. The last few miles to the car were bittersweet as we completed our hike. This hike took a lot of work and the snow didn’t make it any easier. What an adventure!




Final Thoughts
The Teton Crest Trail is a spectacular hike that is right up there with the John Muir Trail. The views are magnificent as you hike from valley to pass and back into valley. Each turn brought new jaw dropping views. The trail never disappointed!

There was quite a bit of snow for us. Most of it was patchy and a nuisance but it sucked time and energy. We were fairly spent each day and didn’t do huge mileage.

Having a GPS with a route preloaded helped keep us on track. The snow covered the trail in some areas and the GPS helped with navigation.

I wore trail runners for this hike even though the BCO recommended boots. My feet were soaked on every day except the first day. Luckily it wasn’t a big deal.

We had Micro Spikes and an Ice Axe for this and couldn’t have completed our loop without these tools. We only used these on the Paintbrush Divide Trail. Check with the BCO on current conditions a few days before beginning this hike. Go prepared!

The weather held up nicely for us! The only rain we had was on our first day after getting camp set up. It lasted about an hour and the storm cleared.

Thanks to Chumley, FOTG & Kyle for coming along for this hike. We had a great group and truly enjoyed this trip! Another memorable trip in the books!
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  1 archive
Jul 20 2017
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 Guides 30
 Routes 445
 Photos 10,028
 Triplogs 947

40 male
 Joined Jan 21 2013
 AZ
The Teton CrestYellowstone, WY
Yellowstone, WY
Backpack avatar Jul 20 2017
FOTGTriplogs 947
Backpack40.34 Miles 9,167 AEG
Backpack40.34 Miles4 Days         
9,167 ft AEG
 no routes
1st trip
Chumley and John covered this little trek very well in their triplogs and I would suggest reading theirs for planning purposes, or other pertinent information. In fact, I really do not have anything to add in that area. This was just a great backpack with good friends and the perfect way to end my summer on the road in the northern Rockies.

First of all, a big thanks to @John9L for putting this all together. His meticulous planning kept our backpack and the logistics surrounding it pretty headache free. Although I can't give him too much credit, as once this backpack started, the mountains did all the work.

This was undoubtedly some of the most scenic country I have ever traveled through. There were sections that rivaled the Sierra Nevada and basins and lakes that could compete with anything in Glacier. We dealt with hail, lightning and snow, but it all seemed appropriate and fitting for a forty mile trek across the Continental Divide and I embraced it. After all, scenery like this, should require some grit to be expelled for the privilege to enjoy.

The hiking was also generally perfect and even with some snow, one could see the immense amount of work that has gone into the Crest Trail. The passes will get anyone's heart bumping, however, none of them broke any of us off and they were generally pretty manageable, in terms of lingering winter conditions. As one would expect with our delinquent crew, there was plenty of comic relief and the mood was light. We kept our days very manageable in terms of mileage and there was plenty of time for resting and relaxation at our generally pristine campsites. I even partook in this thing called sleeping in and to be honest after three weeks of binge hiking and backpacking in Glacier, it was lovely.

In the end, we finished to no issues, no equipment lost and all person's present, so a good trip in my book. The once in a lifetime scenery, memories and experiences along the way only further reaffirm this assessment.
 Named place
 Named place [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Lake Solitude
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Light

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Granite Canyon Medium flow Medium flow

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Marion Lake 76-100% full 76-100% full

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Schoolroom Glacier 76-100% full 76-100% full
Its a glacier, ie a big block of melting ice, you will find water near...

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Sunset Lake 76-100% full 76-100% full
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Aug 04 2016
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 Routes 1
 Photos 24,285
 Triplogs 1,187

43 female
 Joined Jan 18 2011
 In the Wild
The Teton CrestYellowstone, WY
Yellowstone, WY
Backpack avatar Aug 04 2016
LucyanTriplogs 1,187
Backpack42.00 Miles 9,681 AEG
Backpack42.00 Miles3 Days         
9,681 ft AEG20 LBS Pack
 no routes
1st trip
The Teton Crest Trail is a 40-mile long hiking trail in the U.S. state of Wyoming that extends from Phillips Pass, on the border of Bridger Teton and Caribou-Targhee National Forests, to String Lake in Grand Teton National Park.

This trip is usually done as a 4-5 backpack, we did it in 2.5 days. We had perfect weather and conditions plus in a pretty good shape after hiking and backpacking in Sierras past few weeks :D

Day 1 - Granite Canyon - Marion Lake - Fox Creek Pass - Alaska Basin - 18 miles
Day 2 - Alaska Basin - Sunset Lake - Hurricane Pass - South Fork - Cascade Canyon - Lake Solitude - Paintbrush Divide - 15 miles
Day 3 - Paintbrush Divide - Holly Lake - Paintbrush Canyon - Leigh Lake - String Lake- Jenny Lake - 9 miles

For anyone looking for perfect backpacking trip with outstanding views and scenery - this is it! This trip is now on top of my list, absolutely amazing views (pictures don't make it justice), ocean of colorful wildflowers, moderate terrain, lots of wildlife, granite peaks, alpine lakes.
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Extreme
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Jul 23 2015
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 Photos 99
 Triplogs 872

male
 Joined Mar 18 2012
 Goodyear, AZ
The Teton CrestYellowstone, WY
Yellowstone, WY
Backpack avatar Jul 23 2015
MikeSTriplogs 872
Backpack50.20 Miles 10,910 AEG
Backpack50.20 Miles4 Days         
10,910 ft AEG30 LBS Pack
 no routes
1st trip
I am absolutely shocked that with this group of outstanding hikers (I really mean that, this group always impresses me), that no one has ever done this iconic trail across the backside of the Tetons. This was absolutely one of the best adventures I have been on. I am going to rank my top ones below as I would like to see the debate. I went with a group of 5 guys. 3 of us started up Granite Canyon while 2 took the gondola up to save their legs and meet us. The problem was the 2 that went up were the least experienced and got themselves lost in the backcountry. After looking for them for a few hours with no luck we went and set up camp. We found them the next morning but they were tired and cold. The 2 guys I was with had to actually use a 2 person tent for 2 people so you know how that goes. We had a tired group for our big day heading north to the Tetons. This trail is so amazing. Heading from south to north the trail gets more amazing by the mile. Night 2 we camped in the South Fork camp area literally right below the Grand Teton. So beautiful. Rained all night with some serious thunder but still awesome. My group was very tired the next morning so I got up early and went solo up a trail towards the Grand. Very peaceful and beautiful. Still a lot of snow up high which creates amazing waterfalls. Our group hiked down South Fork and the waterfalls got even better. 3 of our group had enough and hiked back to Jenny Lake via Cascade Canyon. While me and another guy continued on up North Fork towards Paintbrush. This was a beautiful trail. We got up to Solitude Lake and jumped in for a nice 35 degree refresher, then over Paintbrush divide. Coming down my legs were starting to feel it and I was grateful to get to our campground. We found a great spot looking down the canyon towards Jenny Lake. The next morning we were ready for a shower and even though we had 30-35 lbs packs, we ran a lot of the way out. An outstanding experience that I would highly recommend. I will paste a 4 min video below so you can see what 50 miles in the Tetons looks like. While hiking I decided to rank my top “big” adventures. I am interested in what others think as I know many of you have done some of these other “big” adventures.

https://youtube.com ... lqXo

Top 8 adventures I have been on

1. Kalalau Trail – On the Napali Coast of Kauai – Amazing combination of beauty and difficulty with rivers crossings, cliffs and jungle humidity
2. Teton Crest Trail – Grand Teton NP – see above – Amazing scenery
3. Half Dome – Yosemite NP – Did a point to point coming in on Panaroma and down Mist.
4. Grand Canyon R2R- GCNP – So many varitions to R2R, R2R2R or even down SK up BA. Done them all and love them.
5. West Rim, Angels Landing, Observation Point – Zions NP – Beautiful looking down the canyon from Observation Point, amazing scenic points from West Rim and Angel’s Landing is just plain fun.
6. Mt Whitney – Highest Point in lower 48. A great challenge and fun trail
7. Havasupai – Hike is a little on the boring side but the waterfalls are outstanding and fun to play in.
8. Under the Rim Trail – Bryce NP – Great challenge and beautiful but not as much as the ones above.

Near term bucket list
1. The Maze – Canyonlands NP
2. Longs Peak and Maroon Bells double in CO
3. Glacier NP backpack trip
4. Complete Trans Zions
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Substantial
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Follow my adventures on Instagram at: adventures_az
  3 archives
Aug 04 2014
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 Guides 3
 Routes 521
 Photos 11,967
 Triplogs 1,583

48 female
 Joined Sep 18 2009
 Tucson, AZ
Off the Beaten Path Loop in GTNP, WY 
Off the Beaten Path Loop in GTNP, WY
 
Backpack avatar Aug 04 2014
GrottoGirlTriplogs 1,583
Backpack36.59 Miles 8,913 AEG
Backpack36.59 Miles4 Days         
8,913 ft AEG
 
1st trip
Partners partners
RedwallNHops
Two years ago Joel and I did a backpack in the Wind River Range in Wyoming and visited Teton National Park briefly which caused us to have yearnings to go back. The Tetons are an impressive range that shoot straight up out of the high desert plains. They drew the interest of Ansel Adams and it resulted in the well known picture titled 'The Tetons and the Snake River.' A print has hung in our home for several years so it's a familiar site. Having grown-up in Wyoming, it's like the Tetons have been calling me home.

In early January, I started to dig around the internet to find a 4-day loop to do during peak wildflower season in the high country. In order to get reservations in advance I had to submit my application on January 8th.

During my research, I ran into a Backpacker magazine article regarding an itinerary that fit my requirements. The article says, "Consider this loop a lesson in investments. While hikers focused on short-term gains jostle for permits to the more accessible (and, yes, gorgeous) loop of Cascade and Paintbrush Canyons, venture a little more sweat equity and embark from Death Canyon trailhead instead. The payoffs are astounding: You’ll score solitude and million-dollar views of the Teton spires—and you won’t have to motor from camping zone to camping zone to nab the best sites. The route links Open Canyon, Mt. Hunt Divide, Granite Canyon, Alaska Basin, and Static Peak Divide to delve deep into the big, open country of the wildlife-packed southern Tetons, a less-visited area of rugged canyons, wildflower-strewn plateaus, endless mountain vistas—and empty campsites." Sold! I then started looking at logs with amazing flower photos to find dates that would deliver amazing flower displays in the alpine setting. I jumped on the reservation system the minute it opened and I scored my reservation.

The Tetons do have Grizzly and Black Bears. Therefore, in order to prep for this trip we had to all obtain bear canisters. We learned that the Park always you to check out bear cans so a couple of the members of our party took advantage of the offer. We also had to get some bear spray at a cost of $50 per unit. We didn't all carry bear spray but we had plenty.

Day 1:
Right out of the cars it lightly rained on us for most of the morning. We started at the Death Canyon TH and got views of Phelps Lake. Above Phelps Lake, we hiked over to and then up Open Canyon. We were in forest for most of the morning but then we started to get glimpses of the high country and the rain stopped for a while. We continued over the Hunt Divide where a Marmot was steadily nibbling to gain weight to survive 8 months of hibernation. Then we went down through hillsides of blankets of flowers and rocks. The small pikas were gathering their haystacks of flowers so they could munch all winter while they hang out in their tunnels under the snow. We finally made it into the Mt Hunt Camping Zone. We knew there was at least two creeks still running in the area so once we saw one we found a spot well off the trail with a view to pitch our tents. We went ahead and drank the water from the creek without treating it. There wasn't any trails in the country above so it should be pretty safe. As we went about our business I remember being nervous about Grizzles. The task of digging a cat hole was daunting and all the normal forest noises seemed to make me weary. We practiced appropriate precautions by eating away from our tents, caching our bear canisters so that they couldn't be rolled off a cliff.

Day 2:
It rained several times overnight but it stopped for us to eat breakfast and pack up for the day. We continued until we met Granite Canyon. The trail was extremely muddy and slippery in spots. We continued along the trail to meet up with the Crest trail near Marion Lake. The flowers in the area were fantastic! More flowers than one would expect. I saw elephantheads, lupines, geraniums, paintbrush, death camas, gentians, cinquefoil, and many pretty yellow flowers. This is what I wanted to see! I was extremely happy! We left the concentrated flowers and then the rain started again so we zipped up. We were joined by those hiking the Teton Crest Trail. I was sad that we were leaving our solitude behind but I knew we'd find it again the next day. Our plan was to stay at a spot marked as 5 stars in the Death Canyon Shelf zone. A good campsite is a good trade for solitude. As we met people, I asked where they were heading for the day. I kept track of those who mentioned the Shelf as their stopping point. I then made sure that as we approached the Shelf to pass those people. As we entered the Shelf we found that some people had already set up camp. I was getting nervous. I wanted the 5 star spot! Finally we reached the waypoint and found a campsite close to the edge that was open! Yay, it was a 5 star camp! We had an awesome view down into the glacier carved upper Death Canyon! The Shelf was comprised of limestone. The water used drainages that suddenly dissolved into fissures allowing the water to go underground. As cavers we really wanted to explore those areas but the weather and the loose rocks caused us to abstain. We had a snack and then it started to rain. I couldn't get myself to go in the tent so I puttered around camp and made sure the water didn't flow under our tents. The rain let up a bit so I spent some time looking down into Death Canyon. Suddenly I realized I was seeing a moose! I was able to zoom in with my camera to observe him and his friend that joined him later in the evening. The skies opened up and we got views of the Cathedral group. The Grand was poking above with a shawl of clouds around it. The view erased the feelings that a day of clouds had given me. It was amazing! Joel and I were excited to see the Grand as later on our trip we would climb the Grand with Exum Guides.

Day 3:
It rained a bunch through the night. But as it came time for us to get up the rain stopped. We took advantage of the rain break to eat and pack. Once we got on the trail we walked in the clouds for a bit. But then suddenly we had some sun! It was enough to revive us for the day's hike. We left Death Canyon Shelf behind and climbed over Mount Meek Pass. On Meek Pass several Marmots were hanging out. We were able to watch to young marmots play king of the rock. As we went down the Sheep Steps it started to pour. I was thankful for my new Patagonia rain jacket. We got down to Alaska Basin and the rain let up a bit but didn't truly stop. We turned onto the trail that would take us away from the Crest with all it's people. We wandered along side the Basin Lakes. We wanted to stop as close to the next junction as possible, yet we didn't want to get to high due to possible thunderstorms. Especially since we'd be approaching Static Divide and Peak, called such because of lightning strikes. Suddenly, the sun came out. We took that as a sign that we should set up camp. We found a good spot and took advantage of the sudden beautiful weather. We were able to get a snack and tea before the rains chased us into our tents. I changed into dry clothes, then played about an hour of solitaire, followed by another hour of practicing knots. Boredom was setting in! Finally, the rain let up and we tumbled out of our tents to make dinner. Typical of the last night of a backpack, there was a bit of sharing of extra foods.

Day 4: We awoke to clear skies! We were all in shock. We had no idea how to act with sun and blue skies! It was awesome! We hiked up to the Static Divide crossing a few snow fields. We stepped of the trail and bagged Static Peak. Static Peak is a walk up peak and is a great was to get an excellent view of high peaks and alpine features in the area. We saw the Grand Teton to the north, Buck Mountain to the west, and Timberline Lake directly below on the north side. Timberline Lake was an amazing blue and it was still partially frozen.

After the peak, we started to encounter a few hikers who were also heading up Static. We started our descent down many, many switchbacks into Death Canyon. We finally reached the bottom and Joel spotted a couple of moose laying in the grass under some trees. Then we found ourselves at a cabin about 4 miles from our trailhead. The dayhiking tourists started to appear. Shortly after the cabin the canyon plummeted down and the water rushed over in many small waterfalls. No wonder the tourists were there! The downhill started to get old but we pressed on to the cars. The day had warmed up and we missed our clouds and rain that had kept us cool. The final 4 miles went reasonably quick and we got to change out of our smelly clothes at Death Canyon trailhead. After such an awesome trip we had to celebrate! We headed to Dornan's in Moose for some pizza and beers!
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Aug 04 2014
avatar

 Guides 1
 Routes 269
 Photos 613
 Triplogs 1,360

47 male
 Joined Dec 22 2003
 Tucson, AZ
Off the Beaten Path Loop in GTNP, AZ 
Off the Beaten Path Loop in GTNP, AZ
 
Backpack avatar Aug 04 2014
RedwallNHopsTriplogs 1,360
Backpack36.59 Miles 8,913 AEG
Backpack36.59 Miles4 Days         
8,913 ft AEG
 no routesno photosets
1st trip
_____________________
 
average hiking speed 2.56 mph

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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