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This is likely a great time to hike this trail!  Check out "Prefered" months below, keep in mind this is an estimate.

Powell Plateau, AZ

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Guide 4 Triplogs  0 Topics
Rated  Favorite Wish List AZ > Northwest > North Rim
Rated
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Difficulty 3.5 of 5
Route Finding 3 of 5
Distance Round Trip 14 miles
Trailhead Elevation 7,173 feet
Elevation Gain -800 feet
Accumulated Gain 3,000 feet
Avg Time Round Trip 8 hours
Kokopelli Seeds 29
Interest Historic
Backpack Yes
varies or not certain dogs are allowed
editedit > ops > dogs to adjust
feature photo
Photos Viewed All Mine Following
19  2013-06-15 azbackpackr
33  2011-07-03 Dave1
15  2006-07-28 azbelknap
Author azbackpackr
author avatar Guides 26
Routes 365
Photos 4,732
Trips 720 map ( 5,214 miles )
Age 66 Female Gender
Location Flag-summer-Needles-winter
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Preferred   Jun, Aug, Sep, Jul → 6 AM
Seasons   Late Spring to Early Autumn
Sun  6:16am - 6:28pm
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Not as flat as a pancake!
by azbackpackr

Likely In-Season!
General information and history: The Powell Plateau is a large mesa semi-detached from the North Rim by a neck of land, sort of like a peninsula partially surrounded by deep side-canyons. Over much of its 8.5 square mile surface it’s relatively flat and covered with a fine forest of Ponderosa Pines. At an elevation of approximately 7400 feet, the best time to visit is summer. There is a great deal of history and prehistory associated with this area, starting with the Anasazi, who lived on its top during the 11th and 12th centuries. Much later on, in 1870, John Wesley Powell visited the plateau that now bears his name. In 1873 he returned, bringing along an artist, Thomas Moran, whose famous painting Chasm of the Colorado is a compilation of views, including the panorama from Dutton Point on Powell Plateau. This painting hung at the US Senate for many years. It now is found in the Smithsonian American Art Museum. However, now that I’ve been to Dutton Point, I don’t see much of a resemblance to the painting!


In the early 1900s, Theodore Roosevelt hunted mountain lions on the Plateau, as did Western author Zane Grey, both unwittingly contributing to the infamous ecological disruption of that area. Between 1907 and 1939 virtually all predators were removed from the Kaibab Plateau, mostly by the US government, causing the deer population to explode, which in turn created deer starvation and habitat destruction. wiki

Surface water is not now reported on the Plateau, although one would assume that during the Anasazi occupation there must have been a spring. According to literature, Muav Spring is 0.2 miles east of Muav Saddle, near the ranger cabin, but I did not look for it. Exploring the entire plateau would take several days. Although it is mostly flat, there are several small canyons full of extremely thick, thorny brush (mostly New Mexico Locust) which have to be negotiated. However, a hiker can enjoy the heavily forested plateau and its views without having to cross any of these canyons. The area is perfect for a day hike or an overnight backpacking trip, carrying sufficient water, of course. There are a great many beautiful, flat forested areas which beg for campers to set up, some which also have rim views.

The hike: The hike begins at Swamp Point. The trailhead is the same as for North Bass Trail. When reaching Muav Saddle, watch for a turn to the right which leads to the ranger cabin, also known as “Teddy’s Cabin” although it was not built until 1925, so Roosevelt didn't stay there. A hard left turn after that would take you down the North Bass Trail. So, you want to take the first right turn, visit the cabin, then retrace your steps back to the main trail, and go straight at the junction with North Bass Trail, which goes left. There are no signs. It’s pretty clear where the trails lead, however. You can see North Bass Trail snaking down the hillside into White Canyon, and you can also see the Powell Plateau and the direction you must take to get there. It would be pretty hard to get lost, especially if you have a map.

Reaching the rim of the Plateau, it flattens out immediately. There is a metal cabinet at the first flat area which holds fire tools and empty water containers. From here a well-traveled trail leads south, generally following the east rim of the Plateau. After a couple of miles the trail becomes very faint in places, or is covered with deadfall. However, careful route-finding will allow a hiker to follow this trail almost all the way to Dutton Canyon, at which point I could no longer find any trace of it. This trail was built in the 1920s but has not been maintained.
To reach famous Dutton Point, named after the geologist, Clarence Dutton, it is necessary to cross Dutton Canyon. This is not dangerous, just slow-going through the thorny brush. Several other canyons may be encountered by the hiker especially if straying too far to the west. After crossing Dutton Canyon I used a GPS to mark Dutton Point, making it easier for me to find it. There are several points which overlook the Canyon, and any one of them will afford a fine view worth taking time to see. However, you can't see the Colorado River until you reach Dutton Point. You may also find traces of the old trail along this rim, but it’s not reliable on the south side of Dutton Canyon.
When leaving Dutton Point, keep more or less to the east side of the plateau the way you came in. If you think you will find a better place to cross Dutton Canyon toward the west, you'll be mistaken. When bearing west-northwest I encountered not one, but four thorny canyons to cross! It was an error in judgment I won't make again if I return to the area.

Permits and logistics: Although at this writing the road to Swamp Point can be reached without putting your vehicle into 4 wheel drive mode, it’s still preferable to use a 4WD to get there. If it should rain, you'll need 4WD to get out of there! If you plan to dayhike to the Plateau, you can get a car camping permit from the Backcountry Office, same as you would get a backpacking permit. Of course, since the Plateau is in Grand Canyon National Park, if you want to overnight backpack you will need a permit. The rangers do stop by. While I was solo hiking the Plateau my companion was visited by rangers at our camp, asking to see our permit.

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2013-06-19 azbackpackr
  • Grand Canyon Use Area Boundaries - Dynamic Map
WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

Most recent Triplog Reviews
Powell Plateau
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This is one of those hikes I'll remember forever! Powell Plateau is beautiful in every way, but to get out to Dutton Point requires some real thorny bushwhacking. If you just stayed in the flat, park-like areas you'd miss out on the view of the river from Dutton Point, though.

Wildlife seen: One buck deer with velvet antlers. Also I flushed some sort of game bird: either a spruce grouse or chukkar. Also, on the ground, lots of cattle dung. I was told later it is from the beefalo that wander all over the Kaibab Plateau.

Flowers: Fields of lupine!

We car camped at Swamp Point two nights. This does require a camping permit available from the Backcountry office. I solo hiked out to the Powell Plateau all day Saturday. My friend, who stayed in camp, said the volunteer rangers did come to check our permit, which we had attached to a tent.

The road to Swamp Point has been graded in recent years, probably so the firefighters could have better access. So, it's no longer truly 4WD. I probably could have driven my 1994 Honda Accord down there, although I would have had to go very slowly. I absolutely do NOT recommend driving a sedan out there, I'm just saying it would be possible in dry weather at this particular moment in time.

This one was up there on my bucket list. I am not sure I'll be back any time soon, but I sure would like to hike North Bass (same trailhead) and also would love to do some summer backpacking all over the Kaibab Plateau.
Powell Plateau
rated 5rated 5rated 5rated 5rated 5
Not as flat as the name implies. Made it all the way Dutton Point this time. The trail ends about 1 mile after you first reach the rim. It just fades out and becomes non-existent. There are a few cairns and markers nailed to trees though. The Plateau is not too difficult to traverse but a trail would be nice because of the Foxtails. I read that there are about 80 ruin sites up here. I saw exactly zero. Awesome place, can't wait to come back. Its too huge to see it in one or two days.
Powell Plateau
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My wife and I spent three days hanging out at the North Rim, sleeping in the back of our truck at night.

The first night was spent near Crazy Jug Point, which is not far from the Bill Hall TH. We tried to hike down Crazy Jug Canyon but turned back due to the excessive heat and not finding a good trail. We decided to take a drive over to Swamp Point and check out Powell Plateau instead. We probably didn't take the most direct route as it took us about three hours to get to Swamp Point from Crazy Jug. In that time the weather changed dramatically. It went from hot and sunny to cloudy, cool and breazy with a little rain during the drive. A nice surprise for a July day at the Canyon!

The Kaibab forest roads were in good shape and mostly passable by car until we got to the National Park Border. As soon as Swamp Point Road crosses into the Nat. Park, high clearance becomes necessary. I don't know if this is due to lack of maintenance or the changing terrain as you get closer to the rim.

We parked right on the rim at Swamp Point, arriving around 3:30p and picked up the trail that leads down to Muav Saddle, Teddy's Cabin and the North Bass Trail (I forget the official name of the trail, its probably North Bass though). We went down to the cabin, poked around for a while and then went up to Powell Plateau. Near the cabin is a trail junction: you can follow the North Bass Trail down White Creek/Muav Canyon or you can head up to Powell Plateau. The trail to PP is well used and easy to follow. Its comparable to most named trails in the canyon except the corridor trails. There was one section on the way up to the Plateau that goes through a wash for a bit. It was a little over-grown but the vegetation was not sharp and the trail was still visible. The rest of it is easy and the switchbacks help with the steepness. We made it to the rim of Powell from Swamp Point in about 2 hours at a normal pace, including the stop at Teddy's Cabin. We then followed the flat trail that leads to Dutton Point for about one mile. It was still quite a distance to DP from where we turned around. We really wanted to continue but it was getting late in the day and we were still unsure if the clouds were going to let loose again. We returned to Swamp Point the same way, making it back right at dusk.

As we were heading down to Muav saddle, we passed three Thai Buddhist Monks who were heading up. They are not allowed any contact at all with women, so my wife, who is also Thai, had to step completely off the trail so the monks could safely pass :oplz: . We spoke briefly with their handler, who was bringing up the rear. He said they started early in the morning from the TH and went all the way out to Dutton Point. They were from a San Diego monastery. They all looked exhausted!

Powell Plateau is definitely a place I would like to return to and explore more thoroughly. Its so beautiful and unspoiled. Except for the Dutton Point trail (which begins to fade the further you go), there is almost no sign of man. It really feels like being on a deserted island! ...A perfect place for some condos, maybe a 9 hole golf course ;) ....


Directions
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Road
High Clearance possible when dry

To North Bass Trailhead
From the US-89A & AZ-67 junction head south on AZ-67 for 25.7 miles to FR-22. Turn right onto FR-22 and follow 2 miles then turn sharply left, (south) hard left onto FR-270. Drive 2 more miles and turn right onto FR-223. Drive 5.3 miles to FR-268. This is a hard right and easy to miss. Turn left onto FR-268 and continue about 0.2 mile to FR-268-B. Slight left at the fork (small pond is on your right) and continue 1.0 mile to the NPS boundary. You will see the Welcome to Grand Canyon sign. Drive into the park and proceed 0.1 mile and turn right (west) onto a rough double track road (Swamp Point Rd). Continue west on this road with deep ruts for 6.9 miles to North Bass Trailhead.

AZ-67 is normally open: Mid-May through Mid-October. Opening and closing dates of the north rim may vary depending on the weather.

From PHX (I-10 & AZ-51) 357 mi - about 7 hours 14 mins
From TUC (Jct 1-10 & Grant) 462 mi - about 8 hours 44 mins
From FLG (Jct I-17 & I-40) 211 mi - about 5 hours 6 mins
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