Morning Glory Spire, AZ | HikeArizona
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Morning Glory Spire, AZ

Guide 34 Triplogs  3 Topics
  4.7 of 5 
117 34 3
Warning! Technical climbing skills required. Risks include serious injury to death.  Risks are not eliminated by skill.
Climb Consensus (28) → View
Difficulty 4th
Climb I Boulder
Rock Sandstone Good
Length 60 ft 4 Pitches
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Difficulty 5 of 5
Route Finding 4 of 5
Distance Round Trip 1.4 miles
Trailhead Elevation 4,453 feet
Elevation Gain 609 feet
Accumulated Gain 770 feet
Avg Time Round Trip 2 hours
Kokopelli Seeds 5.25
 Interest Off-Trail Hiking & Peak
 Backpack No
 Dogs not allowed
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13  2016-03-23
Morning Glory - Sterling Loop
3  2016-03-23
Morning Glory - Sterling Loop
7  2016-02-20
Cibola - Soldier - Brins Loop
15  2016-02-20
Cibola - Soldier - Brins Loop
11  2015-06-01 BobP
14  2014-10-02 Jim_H
15  2014-02-15 Hikergirl81
20  2011-05-30 martinz
Page 1,  2
author avatar Guides 64
Routes 75
Photos 9,059
Trips 2,073 map ( 12,572 miles )
Age Male Gender
Location Arizona, AZ
Historical Weather
Trailhead Forecast
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Preferred Mar, Apr, Sep, Oct → 9 AM
Seasons   ALL
Sun  6:14am - 6:48pm
Official Route
2 Alternative

A Glorious Spire
by Jim_H

 Likely In-Season!
If you've done Capitol Butte and you like the scrambling you encountered on that, you might like to try Morning Glory Spire. This small formation sits just off of the Soldiers Pass Trail and is not often climbed since it isn't very tall, or high. It does offer some pretty nice views and is pretty fun. This climb has some great views of Capitol Butte's north face.

From the Soldiers Pass Trailhead, take the trail to the large sinkhole known as the Devil's Kitchen. Proceed around the sinkhole and you might see a rappel anchor on the north to the northwest side. Finding it isn't important, but it is neat to see. At this point, you are on the south side of Morning Glory. Continue and climb up over the red sandstone hill and make your way to the north side of the spire. There are some rough trails, but nothing is well defined. It may be helpful to look for the Ocotillo growing on the east side of Morning Glory near its base, and once you have found them, try to climb up and move further to the north.

Eventually, you will arrive at a fairly well-defined climbing trail. Take it as it climbs steeply and over some loose sand and scree to the bottom of the climbing area on the north to the northeast side of Morning Glory. You may have to do a little route finding if a trail takes you to a viewpoint and a dead end. Just before you get to the base of the first pitch, you will go underneath some branches from an Arizona Cypress and then take a right up to a tall pinyon growing at the base of pitch one.

Climb up this first pitch of relatively easy 4th class climbing that is about 20 feet in length and take a left towards the summit. There should be a visible climbing trail that will take you where you want to go. Follow it to another small pitch of 3rd class climbing and then proceed to the only hard part of the entire climb, the 4th class pitch which is just left of, or in a small angled chimney. If you go left of it, there are numerous small holds that you will be able to use and a narrow ledge about 2/3 of the way up this pitch. After the difficult section, there is one last pitch of 3rd class climbing that will take you to the summit block. It is small, but you'll enjoy gaining it. Descent is either by the route you came up or using one of the rappel anchors which are on or near the summit. It looked like you would want at least a 60-meter rope to rappel.

No protection is needed, including helmets. There are rappel anchors on the summit and just off of it, in case you would rather not down climb.

Check out the Official Route and Triplogs.

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2009-08-27 Jim_H
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WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

 Permit $$
Red Rock Pass - may or may not be required. Go to Red Rock Pass then check "When is a Red Rock Pass Required?". If you have questions contact the Coconino forest service.

Red Rock - Secret Mountain Wilderness
see map for camping restrictions

Paved - Car Okay

To hike & climb trip
From the 'Y' in Sedona ( 179/89A ) follow 89A 1.2 miles Southwest to Soldier Pass Road. Turn right and follow 1.4 miles to Rim Shadow Drive. Turn right again and look for the parking area on the left within 0.25 miles. The parking area is closed for the evening, leave time to be back by the gate closing.
page created by Jim_H on Aug 27 2009 7:23 pm

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