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We're going streaking! by CoryTallman Approach - Streaker Spire The approach for the spire is via the Chapel Trail. I would recommend parking on the road before the gate for the church parking lot (they're serious about locking you in at 5 p.m.). Follow the Chapel Trail towards the two obvious spires until a climber's trail cuts off to the left. Scramble up the northern most gulley prior to the first spire. Chimney up a short slot under a chockstone, and continue up the sandstone slabs to reach the ridge north of the first spire. There is a fairly obvious trail that heads east and then south to take you around the backside of the first spire and up to Streaker from the backside. Some minor downclimbing is required. Follow the trail to the north side of the southern spire, and do some easy scrambling to reach the ledge at the limestone band, there is a dead stump here that used to be the pine tree that marked the beginning of the route. This is where your first pitch begins. Climb - Streaker Spire P1- There are no bolts on the ledge, but we slung a large boulder on the east side of the ledge to belay from. Traverse out across the limestone band to the obvious ledge. There is a bolt and an old piton on this ledge to rebelay. P2- Traverse from the ledge past a small tree and around the corner to the west face of the spire. There is an offwidth with a bolt. Rebelay here. (P1 & P2 can easily be combined.) P3- Climb up the crack for a short distance until it becomes a finger crack. Head up and to the right into the obvious corner section. Once in the corner follow it straight up until it ends in an overhang. Climb up and past the overhang to a ledge with a tree. Rebelay here. There are no bolts at this ledge. P4- From the ledge with the tree you will be able to see your route to the summit. The main route to the top (5.7+) is a slot that's up and slightly to the left. You should be able to see a bush from the ledge you're belaying at. Climb up to the slot, and perform some awkward moves to get inside. Chimney to the summit from there. Alternative P4- (5.9+) From the ledge at the top of pitch three climb the same route you would to reach the slot. Instead of going slightly to the left and into the chimney, follow the crack straight up the middle towards the summit. Bring a standard rack with cams up to #4 & #5. There is a fixed anchor at the top and rap chains halfway down. Two rappels with a 60M rope will get you back to the beginning of pitch #1. Check out the Official Route and Triplogs. Leave No Trace and +Add a Triplog after your climb trip to support this local community.
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Rated
Streaker Spire
WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.
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Sedona Spires / Streaker Spire
The approach for the spire is via the Chapel Trail. I would recommend parking on the road before the gate for the church parking lot (they're serious about locking you in at 5 p.m.). Follow the Chapel Trail towards the two obvious spires until a climber's trail cuts off to the left. Scramble up the northern most gulley prior to the first spire. Chimney up a short slot under a chockstone, and continue up the sandstone slabs to reach the ridge north of the first spire. There is a fairly obvious trail that heads east and then south to take you around the backside of the first spire and up to Streaker from the backside. Some minor downclimbing is required. Follow the trail to the north side of the southern spire, and do some easy scrambling to reach the ledge at the limestone band, there is a dead stump here that used to be the pine tree that marked the beginning of the route. This is where your first pitch begins.
P1- There are no bolts on the ledge, but we slung a large boulder on the east side of the ledge to belay from. Traverse out across the limestone band to the obvious ledge. There is a bolt and an old piton on this ledge to rebelay.
P2- Traverse from the ledge past a small tree and around the corner to the west face of the spire. There is an offwidth with a bolt. Rebelay here.
(P1 & P2 can easily be combined.)
P3- Climb up the crack for a short distance until it becomes a finger crack. Head up and to the right into the obvious corner section. Once in the corner follow it straight up until it ends in an overhang. Climb up and past the overhang to a ledge with a tree. Rebelay here. There are no bolts at this ledge.
P4- From the ledge with the tree you will be able to see your route to the summit. The main route to the top (5.7+) is a slot that's up and slightly to the left. You should be able to see a bush from the ledge you're belaying at. Climb up to the slot, and perform some awkward moves to get inside. Chimney to the summit from there.
Alternative P4- (5.9+) From the ledge at the top of pitch three climb the same route you would to reach the slot. Instead of going slightly to the left and into the chimney, follow the crack straight up the middle towards the summit.
Bring a standard rack with cams up to #4 & #5.
There is a fixed anchor at the top and rap chains halfway down. Two rappels with a 60M rope will get you back to the beginning of pitch #1.
P1- There are no bolts on the ledge, but we slung a large boulder on the east side of the ledge to belay from. Traverse out across the limestone band to the obvious ledge. There is a bolt and an old piton on this ledge to rebelay.
P2- Traverse from the ledge past a small tree and around the corner to the west face of the spire. There is an offwidth with a bolt. Rebelay here.
(P1 & P2 can easily be combined.)
P3- Climb up the crack for a short distance until it becomes a finger crack. Head up and to the right into the obvious corner section. Once in the corner follow it straight up until it ends in an overhang. Climb up and past the overhang to a ledge with a tree. Rebelay here. There are no bolts at this ledge.
P4- From the ledge with the tree you will be able to see your route to the summit. The main route to the top (5.7+) is a slot that's up and slightly to the left. You should be able to see a bush from the ledge you're belaying at. Climb up to the slot, and perform some awkward moves to get inside. Chimney to the summit from there.
Alternative P4- (5.9+) From the ledge at the top of pitch three climb the same route you would to reach the slot. Instead of going slightly to the left and into the chimney, follow the crack straight up the middle towards the summit.
Bring a standard rack with cams up to #4 & #5.
There is a fixed anchor at the top and rap chains halfway down. Two rappels with a 60M rope will get you back to the beginning of pitch #1.
2016-02-28 CoryTallman
