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Weaver's Needle Summit, AZ

Guide 55 Triplogs  1 Active Topic
  4.8 of 5 
no permit
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Warning! Technical climbing skills required. Risks include serious injury to death.  Risks are not eliminated by skill.
Climb Consensus (44) → View
Difficulty 5.4
Climb III PG Trad
Rock Volcanic Good
Length 600 ft 4 Pitches
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Difficulty 4.5 of 5
Route Finding 3 of 5
Distance Round Trip 8.1 miles
Trailhead Elevation 2,400 feet
Elevation Gain 2,153 feet
Accumulated Gain 3,414 feet
Avg Time Round Trip 8-12 hours
Kokopelli Seeds 25.17
Interest Off-Trail Hiking & Peak
Backpack Yes & Connecting
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9  2021-03-27 friendofThunderg
8  2021-01-31 friendofThunderg
14  2019-11-24 friendofThunderg
12  2019-01-25 jtaylor
9  2018-08-11 friendofThunderg
9  2018-08-11 BiFrost
19  2017-11-23 GrottoGirl
7  2017-03-03 DennisWilliams
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Author Fritzski
author avatar Guides 43
Routes 0
Photos 597
Trips 59 map ( 132 miles )
Age 67 Male Gender
Location Gilbert, AZ
Historical Weather
Trailhead Forecast
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Preferred   Feb, Mar, Nov, Dec → Early
Seasons   Autumn to Spring
Sun  5:16am - 7:38pm
Official Route
1 Alternative

Warning the 2019 Woodbury Fire & 2020 Sawtooth Fire damaged a majority of the Superstition Wilderness.
Tired of just looking at it!
by Fritzski

This classic adventure takes you to the top of one of the most famous landmarks of the Superstition Mountains. The majestic Weavers Needle spire tops out at 4553' and dominates the skyline for miles around. Although this climb has been done non-technically, it is recommended that it be done as a technical climb with the proper equipment and at least one experienced climber in the group since some moves have been rated as high as 5.6. All climbers should have basic rope and rappelling experience. There are two common approaches to the Needle. Although both converge on the evident notch between the smaller south spire and the main north spire, they come in from opposite directions. The eastern approach is considered the least technically difficult of the two, but the longer hiking distance and off-trail portions would be more time consuming (see "Weavers - Base of the Needle" in TrailDex for directions). This description will cover the "western" approach from Peralta Trail. For the initial description of the hike from the Peralta Trailhead to Pinon Camp, see Peralta Trail or "Weavers Needle Loop" in TrailDex.

The first challenge will be to find the "use" trail going up the 45 degree scree and boulder slope to the notch. It is actually fairly straight forward. Just past Pinion Camp, look for the first ramp-like terrain just north(left) of the distinct ravine on its right. Basically its the first spot that offers a straight shot up the slope to the notch at about 90 degrees to Peralta Trail. There may or may not be cairns marking the departure point, but the only slight bushwhacking you may encounter would be finding a good spot to cross the wash immediately to your right before commencing your climb. As with most climbs of this type, the biggest challenge is really just negotiating the treacherous scree slope to the base of the rock. It is a bit of a hump with heavy packs, but the trail is actually quite evident and well marked with cairns, so take just your time and be careful on the loose stuff.

As you finally approach the base of the wall, you'll notice a large rock formation rising up in front of the notch. Continue to follow the trail and it will lead you around and behind it to the left. Here in this shaded nook, you will find yourself at the end of the dirt and the beginning of rock as it heads straight up the chimney above. Here is the place to stow your hiking stuff, have a snack, and gear up for the climb.

There are four pitches comprising this climb. Although some may want to technically protect all four, we found it necessary only on the second. The first pitch begins up the slot and involves some low angle, low exposure climbing to a small ledge where the chimney begins to narrow and steepen. Set up a belay for the second pitch here.

The second pitch involves some Class5 climbing up the narrow chimney to the large boulder or "chock stone" wedged in at the top above you. As you start the climb you will encounter a pipe hammered into the rock at about 10' up which you can sling for your first piece of protection. From here the chimney gradually continues to close and steepen with great hand holds and ample spots for protection (I used two medium stoppers and a tricam). As you approach the "chock stone", you have three choices: go under it(5.0), right of it(5.2), or left of it(5.4). We chose to go to the left(4816) which takes you out on the wall to get around the boulder which made this short move the "crux" of the entire climb and the only really exposed move on the pitch. At the top of the chock stone is a large rappel anchor for the belay.

You are now in the crook of the notch, and from the nice small flat area you can see out both sides and get a view looking down on the east approach. As you begin pitch 3 the route is evident as it climbs a short 12' wall straight up the main spire to your left. The hand and foot holds here, as with the entire climb are very secure - basically "bomber jugs" as they say in climber lingo. After the short wall just continue on the Class3 trail up past a couple small trees ending at a large defined ledge overlooking the west edge.

Pitch 4 consists of the final 300' up the southwest face of the summit headwall of which about the first 50' could be considered technical. This section basically hangs you out over the edge of the upper west face. Although the difficulty level of this pitch is no more than 5.1, the extreme level of exposure may psychologically affect some climbers. Once again, the hand and foot holds couldn't be better and the rock affords ample opportunity to place protection if you so choose. This short, but sustained technical portion then quickly gives way to an easy Class3 trail up to the summit.

At the summit you'll find the American Flag attached to a century plant stalk poked in a large pile of rocks. Beneath it is the obligatory ammo box with sign-in log and so much extraneous stuff in it its hard to get it closed. There are a couple flat camping spots surrounded by 2' security walls and a nice fire pit. The views are stupendous as you might expect, so plan on taking some time to enjoy and photograph the experience.

When its time for the descent, you'll find having a 200' rope for rappelling a godsend as opposed to tedious and nerve-racking down climbs. For the first rappel look for a large new chain anchor on the wall to your left as you approach the top of the last technical section. This will be a part free hanging down to the west ledge. From here back track down the trail and down climb the short 12' wall to the top of the notch (there is an anchor at the top of the short wall if you choose to rappel it). From here the next anchor is the one on the top of the boulder/chock stone and if you have a 200' rope it will just take you all the way down the chimney to the top of the first pitch where you can easily scramble back down to your gear.

From here comes the most dangerous part of the hike in my opinion. Getting back down the scree slope with heavy packs is very tricky with looseness and gravity fighting against you as a team. I stepped on about a 300lb boulder which let loose and instead of hanging on for the ride I bailed right into a prickly pear which left me with a few souvenirs I was still finding a week later. Fortunately the slope steadily lessens and the soil firms up as you make your way down.

This was a truly excellent adventure and one that I would highly recommend to anyone having the basic experience and skills to do it safely.

60m / 200' rope
harnesses w/ belay/rappel device
climbing shoes (recommended)
medium pro, carabiners, 2' slings(2), extra 1" webbing(10')
water (we packeded small hydration packs for the climb)
camera w/ padded case

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2002-12-02 Fritzski
    WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

    Permit $$

    Map Drive
    FR / Jeep Road - Car possible when dry

    To Peralta Trailhead
    7.6 miles east of the junction Idaho Rd / US-60. Turn Left on to FS77 which is Peralta Road. Follow FS77 5.6 miles to a left and up turnoff. Continue 1.9 miles to Peralta Trailhead.

    The trailhead has restrooms minus running water. The parking lot is enormous. It does fill up in season on weekends. Since there are no lines, the rangers ask that you park straight between the posts in the main lot. Please do your part with this simple request and make room for the next guy. 0.5 miles before reaching the trailhead is an overflow lot, which is also suited for horse trailer parking.

    From PHX (Jct I-10 & AZ-51) 45.2 mi - about 1 hour 8 mins
    From TUC (Jct 1-10 & Grant) 97.0 mi - about 2 hours 16 mins
    From FLG (Jct I-17 & I-40) 192 mi - about 3 hours 15 mins
    90+° 8am - 6pm kills
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