Canyoneering Safety

[imike]

Of late we are addressing an issue that seems to have a fine line distinction... exactly what is the proper procedure when it comes to "minor" moments of danger in easy canyons?

We hike very easy canyon areas, mostly bouldering and scrambling up dry falls... 12' to 20' of near vertical with very good hand holds or narrow ledges. There are occasionally multi-tiered falls wherein the total ascent might be over 40'. To date, it has always been a best case scenario; no one has fallen far. Standing at the top of some of these and looking back over the edge two thoughts occur: 1) it is too steep to climb back down! 2) if I fell, I would fall all the way to the bottom, possibly with a few interesting bounces thrown into the mix. The question is simple: when should safety measures be added?

Hiking solo, it is a mute issue... but with the small groups that are beginning to show up for these canyon adventures I have to assume the chances are becoming greater that someone will eventually run into trouble. To date, we've left it up to the individual to climb or find a safer alternative route. I'm wondering if perhaps a different rule should come into play.

An aside to this issue: proper classification of the canyon. I've been rating these hikes as Class I... given their overall general nature. Yet, there are some of the drainages that do hold one or two of these moments where you are climbing, and a rope might have been a good idea... should that up the overall classification up a notch? In nearly every case there is an alternative route around the climb, usually a steep scramble with little risk or danger.

It is canyon hiking season... guess it is time to address this issue. I'm throwing rope and harness into the pack, just have to decide when it should come out and go into play.

mj

[nonot]

Sounds like you may be doing class 2 canyons.

Like climbing, a canyon is rated by its most difficult feature - 20 miles of flattish canyon hiking with 1 rappel of 20 ft halfway through makes it class 3 (though a boring class 3), unless you can bypass or downclimb the rappel.

If there is an "easier route", I'd think you'd want to rate it according to what you'd encounter on the "easiest route".

Class 1 - Canyon Hiking Non-technical. No rope is required. See the route description for difficulties.
Class 2 - Basic Canyoneering Scrambling, easy climbing or downclimbing. A rope may be handy for handlines, belays, lowering packs and emergency use. Exit or retreat possible upcanyon without fixed ropes.
Class 3 - Intermediate Canyoneering Rappels or technical climbing and/or downclimbing. A rope is required for belays and single-pitch rappels. Retreat upcanyon would require fixing ropes.

My guidelines are to know who you canyoneer with and be prepared for the most novice member. If they will call out for a belay on an upclimb, better to have the harnesses and ropes with than not. If they might get stuck on rappel, bring the rescue kit. If they are weak at rappelling, bring another experienced person so one can go down before and provide the fireman. If they will be slow, start earlier so you finish before nightfall.

If you can't prepare for the weakest member, don't go - the canyon will still be there when skills improve or an experienced partner can join to help manage logistics.

The key is to underestimate, rather than overestimate a novice...unfortunately that lesson wasn't learned so easy.