Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
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Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
Grand Canyon, Ariz. – At approximately 7:20 p.m. on Tuesday, July 21, the Grand Canyon Regional Communications Center received a report that at least one young man, and possibly as many as three, were overdue from a backpacking trip at Grand Canyon National Park.
The young men are reported to have left on a trip to the Deer Creek/Thunder River area on Saturday after reading about the trip in a magazine. According to the reporting party, the father of one of the young men, his son had stated that he would be back on Monday, but did not return. Further investigation revealed that there were as many as four young men in the hiking party. All are in their early 20s, and all are believed to be students at Northern Arizona University. It was also determined that this group did not have a backcountry permit.
Today at approximately 7:30 a.m., rangers found the group's car parked at the Bill Hall Trailhead which is located about half way between the North Rim developed area and Tuweep. A containment area was established at the exit points the young men might have used in the area, and an initial ground search was conducted at the Indian Hollow and Bill Hall Trailheads. A helicopter with three spotters also conducted an initial aerial search of the Tapeats and Deer Creek drainages as well as all trails in the area, but did not locate the young men. Additionally, all groups currently on the river were notified about the search and groups who have disembarked, but were on the river between Saturday and Tuesday, are being contacted to determine if the young men were seen in the vicinity of the river. Thus far, no one contacted on the trail or on the river has reported seeing the missing hikers.
The young men are reported to have left on a trip to the Deer Creek/Thunder River area on Saturday after reading about the trip in a magazine. According to the reporting party, the father of one of the young men, his son had stated that he would be back on Monday, but did not return. Further investigation revealed that there were as many as four young men in the hiking party. All are in their early 20s, and all are believed to be students at Northern Arizona University. It was also determined that this group did not have a backcountry permit.
Today at approximately 7:30 a.m., rangers found the group's car parked at the Bill Hall Trailhead which is located about half way between the North Rim developed area and Tuweep. A containment area was established at the exit points the young men might have used in the area, and an initial ground search was conducted at the Indian Hollow and Bill Hall Trailheads. A helicopter with three spotters also conducted an initial aerial search of the Tapeats and Deer Creek drainages as well as all trails in the area, but did not locate the young men. Additionally, all groups currently on the river were notified about the search and groups who have disembarked, but were on the river between Saturday and Tuesday, are being contacted to determine if the young men were seen in the vicinity of the river. Thus far, no one contacted on the trail or on the river has reported seeing the missing hikers.
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
From Harvey's logs..... "They got to the beach by going down Bonita Creek (the wash that drains Surprise Valley) although they needed the rope at one place."nonot wrote:I was trying to find a description of someone using Bonita creek to access the Colorado but couldn't find any triplogs on the internet.
http://library.nau.edu/speccoll/images/ ... /47690.htm
"The censorship method ... is that of handing the job over to some frail and erring mortal man, and making him omnipotent on the assumption that his official status will make him infallible and omniscient."
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
I don't know if it's been mentioned. The folks at the Back Country Office told me that climbing gear was found in his car at the trailhead and they were operating on the premise that he was canyoneering. They brought in technical search crews from Zion and Bryce. I hadn't heard who found him.
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]

Such beauty hides such danger.
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Change will not come if we wait for some other person or some other time. We are the ones we've been waiting for. We are the change that we seek.- Barack Obama
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
I've been out a couple days and missed the sad news. If they found him at the top of the pour-off as the NPS report said, I suppose he succumbed to dehydration or heat stroke. It must have been horrible to reach such a point and be unable to retreat from it.
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
OK, some of the questions are solved here. I just got this from mikehikes who got it from his friend at the Park:
"He somehow missed the trail in Surprise Valley and headed down Bonita Creek. His body was found not far from the River ABOVE a dry fall by searchers that came UP the drainage from the River. Although it was rough territory, there was nothing really impassible that stopped him. He just ran out of everything (but heat).
Having a permit probably wouldn't have helped much. The search began about the same time either with or without one. He was not on a usual hiking route. Permits are issued for use areas or designated campsites, not hiking routes."
Ok, so that solves the question of whether he could have gotten down to the river. Apparently he could have if he'd had his wits about him, but by then it was apparently too late.
"He somehow missed the trail in Surprise Valley and headed down Bonita Creek. His body was found not far from the River ABOVE a dry fall by searchers that came UP the drainage from the River. Although it was rough territory, there was nothing really impassible that stopped him. He just ran out of everything (but heat).
Having a permit probably wouldn't have helped much. The search began about the same time either with or without one. He was not on a usual hiking route. Permits are issued for use areas or designated campsites, not hiking routes."
Ok, so that solves the question of whether he could have gotten down to the river. Apparently he could have if he'd had his wits about him, but by then it was apparently too late.
There is a point of no return unremarked at the time in most lives. Graham Greene The Comedians
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
Yea, what was he thinking hiking in that area in the middle of summer.
He might as well been wearing a shirt that said, 'Condor food coming thru!' 


Yea, canyoneering is an extreme sport... EXTREMELY dramatic!!! =p
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
Here's a good article about him. So very sad, what a waste.
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/co ... =rss_metroWashington Post Staff Writer
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Bryce Gillies, a seasoned hiker and McLean High School graduate, had just returned from an overseas development project when he set out by himself this month on a backpacking trip into the Grand Canyon.
Gillies, who attended college in Arizona, was drawn to the canyon there because he "loved its magnificence," his father, Randy Gillies, said Monday night.
After a month spent building a clinic in Africa, Gillies began the backpacking trip July 18, his 20th birthday. Three days later, he was reported overdue, the National Park Service said. Searchers, led by Park Ranger Anne Petersen, found his body Saturday.
Officials had not released a cause of death, but his father said it appeared to be dehydration. Apparently, his father said, a small navigational error was compounded by extreme temperatures.
The Park Service said Gillies's car was found at the Bill Hall trail head, half way between the canyon's Tuweep section and a developed area on the park's north rim.
After a wide-ranging search turned up personal items, rescuers focused on the Bonita Creek area. Gillies was found about one-half mile from where the creek joins the Colorado River, the Park Service said.
Bryce Gillies had carried enough water for the route he planned, his father said. But he said the apparent navigational error kept his son from reaching Thunder River, where he intended to replenish his supply.
Randy Gillies said he was told that Bryce tried to save himself by descending toward the floor of the canyon, to reach the water flowing there. As he headed down, the father said, his son descended 20- to 35-foot rock faces without a rope.
"Bryce made a heroic effort to rescue himself," the father said.
But the predicament might have been insurmountable. At the high temperatures that had set in, the father said, dehydration can occur in as "little as a couple of hours."
Randy Gillies thanked searchers for their efforts, and he emphasized the importance of filing a backcountry permit, which he called imperative for any wilderness venture.
The father lives in McLean with Gillies's mother, Warna. A brother, Neal, also survives. According to the father, Gillies graduated in 2007 from McLean High and then entered Northern Arizona University in Flagstaff, near the canyon.
Gillies, an Eagle Scout, had taken college calculus at George Mason University in high school and was a physics major in college. He had a four-year president's scholarship at the university, which he chose in part for the area's beauty. At Northern Arizona, Gillies, an outdoor enthusiast who had hiked the Appalachian Trail, learned to kayak and to rock climb.
He had spent June in Ghana as a project leader with Engineers Without Borders to build a medical clinic, and his father said he looked on such work as a possible career.
There is a point of no return unremarked at the time in most lives. Graham Greene The Comedians
A clean house is a sign of a misspent life.
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
Sad indeed that he would have been able to reach the river then, had he not been so far gone. 

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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
Generally the rangers give you crap about getting a permit in the canyon and tell you that you will probably die on your trip, perhaps a ranger telling him it wasn't wise to hike in 100 degree heat (apparently lots of people don't seem to get it) would have helped?
http://hikearizona.com/garmin_maps.php
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
Agreed.nonot wrote:...perhaps a ranger telling him it wasn't wise to hike in 100 degree heat (apparently lots of people don't seem to get it) would have helped?
AD-AVGVSTA-PER-ANGVSTA
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
I was in this area in July 2007 on a river trip. We hiked up Tapeats Creek to Thunder River, then across Surprise Valley and down Deer Creek back to the river. It was a very very rough hike because of the heat. We had a moniker for this journey that I have permanently retired considering this recent tragedy, but I just wish Gillies would have come to this site, and asked a few questions because at least one person here is very familiar with this area in July. What's done is done, and I'll do anything I can to help my fellow hikers enjoy our beautiful state in a safe manner.
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
Wise words Mr. Lyding. Joe has done such a magnificent job organizing this site and the members have added so much wisdom in the triplogs and GPS routes. Looking at the Deer Creek / Thunder River loop and related hikes, there are GPS routes providing terrain and topo maps. It doesn't look like we have a GPS route for the loop so I guess I'll have to head back in November. I've hiked this route and I was having trouble envisioning how Bryce Gillies sadly made the navigational error. But looking at the terrain map, I can see how someone without a map and map skills could end up going down Bonita Creek.JamesLyding wrote:. . . but I just wish Gillies would have come to this site, and asked a few questions because at least one person here is very familiar with this area in July. . . .
Noble sentiment Mr. Lyding. On a trail, I ask hikers if they are on HAZ and I tell hikers about HAZ. I've had many people help me and I always try to repay these debts.. . . and I'll do anything I can to help my fellow hikers enjoy our beautiful state in a safe manner.
Anybody can make a hike harder. The real skill comes in making the hike easier.
life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer it gets to the end, the faster it goes. Andy Rooney
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
Always Always Always look after your fellow hikers. Hope they do the same for you.
It's so sad that Gillies took the route he did because he was so close to Thunder River: one of the most beautiful spots in our beloved Arizona, and he probably would have been alright.
p.s. Al I'll get those dates to you this week. Accounting class has kicked my pumpkin pretty bad, and I need to figure out when the trip is going to be. The Tapeats-Thunder River-Surprise Valley-Deer Creek hike is 100% on the itinerary.
It's so sad that Gillies took the route he did because he was so close to Thunder River: one of the most beautiful spots in our beloved Arizona, and he probably would have been alright.
p.s. Al I'll get those dates to you this week. Accounting class has kicked my pumpkin pretty bad, and I need to figure out when the trip is going to be. The Tapeats-Thunder River-Surprise Valley-Deer Creek hike is 100% on the itinerary.
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
Story published in January 5th, 2010 Arizona Republic about Bryce Gillies' tragedy in the Grand Canyon. 10 people died in the Grand Canyon in 2009, and that's way too many. Know what you're getting into, be more-than-prepared, follow the rules, and ALWAYS have a safety contact. Don't let this young man's passing be in vain.
Grand Canyon adventure turned tragic
by Richard Ruelas
The Arizona Republic
Bryce Gillies came to a clearing in the Grand Canyon and peered down at the Colorado River rushing past him. On either side of him were stark canyon walls enveloping him in this place of natural beauty. The 20-year-old was thirsty and hot after a long day of brutal hiking on this Saturday in mid-July, but he could do nothing about it. He had ditched his water bottles and food, and there was no way he could go back and reach them. He had jumped sheer rock faces - some more than 30 feet - on his way down, and it would be nearly impossible to climb back up them. There was also no way to the river below. The clearing led to a drop of around 80 feet. The fall would have killed him. He could not head left or right. The tall rock walls that defined his boundaries were nearly vertical and offered no footings. This place is where Gillies' hike would end.
Gillies, an Eagle Scout, engineering student and experienced outdoorsman, came to the Grand Canyon to cap off what had been a transformative summer. He had just returned from a remote village in Africa where he had volunteered to construct a building for a medical clinic. It was an empowering few weeks that stretched Gillies' physical and mental abilities and left him energized and fulfilled.
He wanted to celebrate the trip, and his 20th birthday, with a hike through the Grand Canyon. A backpacking magazine article he had read described a North Rim hike to a remote location where water gushed out of a limestone rock wall, transforming the desert landscape into a lush, green oasis.
Treacherous beauty
Rangers believe Gillies deviated from his intended path and hiked along a dry creek bed that offered no shade. The path he had read about was several yards away. It was that path that led to the spectacular natural spring. It was that path that would have led him through a loop back out of the Canyon and allowed him to continue his life.
Gillies became one of 12 tourists in 2009 who died at the Grand Canyon, the natural wonder that plays host to around 4.5 million visitors annually. He was one of the 10 visitors who died accidentally within the Canyon, four of whom were on backcountry trails. (The other two deaths were from a heart attack and a suicide.)
The Grand Canyon can be as naturally treacherous as it is gorgeous. Its beauty can sometimes mask those potential dangers.
Rangers say tourists are frequently lured into what might be called an impulsive hike. They cautiously inch their way along a trail at the South Rim, sometimes in flip-flops, and are pulled by the scenery to keep going. Some reach the Colorado River before they realize they are unprepared to make the hike back up and need to be flown out by helicopter.
Experienced hikers, inspired by exhilarating tales in magazines and guidebooks, come from all over the world to conquer the backcountry trails. A permitting office at the Canyon offers advice and gently prods people away from dangerous hikes, sometimes by asking hikers to leave information about their next of kin.
Gillies seemed well-qualified for the hike, having spent his childhood tromping through the mountains of Virginia. His Eagle Scout training taught him to be self-reliant and to use a compass and map in remote areas. He had recently conquered Mount Baldy in California and Sandia Peak in New Mexico. He had also hiked the Grand Canyon's main trails during his freshman year at Northern Arizona University.
Gillies also seemed to have a good temperament for this hike. He could be competitive and determined. But he was not headstrong. Nor was he reckless.
New challenges
"We were wondering if he'd be safe in Africa," his mother, Warna Gillies, said. "Here, we lose him in the Grand Canyon. You just don't know what's going to happen."
Gillies grew up in Fairfax County, Va., outside of Washington, D.C. He joined the Boy Scouts, deepening his love of the outdoors. He stayed with it through high school - something only about half of Scouts do - and became an Eagle Scout.
Gillies was fond of the Appalachian Trail and the mountain parks around his Virginia home. His father said he would sometimes average 20 miles a day.
With the Scouts, he learned navigation skills, twice visiting the Philmont Scout Ranch in New Mexico, a 200-square-mile wilderness area where Scouts prove their mettle, said his scoutmaster, Jim Ahlgrimm.
That New Mexico camp - rocky and rugged - was different from the tree-laden hills of Virginia. Gillies yearned for more adventures in this new terrain.
After high school, Gillies visited colleges out West and fell in love with the Flagstaff campus of NAU.
"He said, 'This is it. I love this place,' " his father, Randy Gillies, remembered.
It was on the NAU campus that the mechanical-engineering major found Engineers Without Borders. The group organized students who wanted to work on volunteer projects that used their skills.
In the past few years, the chapter had traveled to a remote village called Yua, in the northern portion of Ghana, that had no electricity or plumbing and sporadic access to clean water. The main project for the summer of 2009 was building nurses' quarters near the medical clinic.
Gillies arrived in Ghana's capital May 25, according to an online journal of the group's activities. It was 100 degrees, with 80 percent humidity.
But the day Gillies arrived, the man who had been the chief engineer on the project came down with a severe case of malaria that required him to be hospitalized. Within a few days, he decided to head back to the United States. The team's faculty adviser went with him.
Now, the engineering would be in the hands of Gillies, who did not know the terrain or the language and who had never constructed a building.
Africa clinic
Jessica Lum, who was also on her first trip to Ghana, said she felt scared and nervous about suddenly managing the project.
"All of a sudden, we were left with this huge task to do, and the people who know anything about the culture were gone," she said.
The students recruited people from the village to help with labor. Most of them did not speak English, Lum said, and those who did had a tough time pronouncing Bryce's name. He became known instead as "Bright."
The new building was constructed by July. It gave the nurses a place to sleep, opening up a room in the small clinic that they had been using as a bedroom. The clinic would be powered by a solar array that Gillies also engineered.
Gillies and two other members of the team came back to the United States. Lum stayed behind to put the finishing touches on the clinic and to do more volunteer work.
Gillies had about a month before classes began at NAU. He had planned to spend a good chunk of that time at his parents' house in Virginia. But before then, he had a few days free at his apartment in Flagstaff. And the Grand Canyon beckoned.
"He chose to do (the hike) on one of the harder times of the year," his father said. "He kind of took on the Canyon."
Gillies had seen an article in the online edition of Backpacker magazine that told of the Deer Creek-Thunder River Loop.
The trail, the Web site said, "dishes out enough superlatives to send a guidebook writer running for a thesaurus."
Very strong hikers could do the 27.6-mile loop in three days, the Web site said. Gillies considered himself a very strong hiker.
The plan, according to the article Gillies read, had him taking the Bill Hall trail down to the Thunder River Trail. This was supposed to be the hardest part of the hike, with a drop of 2,000 feet over 2.5 miles. There was then a 3-mile hike across the relatively flat Esplanade before climbing down to Surprise Valley.
After that, it was supposed to be "payoff time," the article said.
Last time he was seen
Gillies would see the Thunder River spring out of a limestone wall. He would hike along its banks as it roared to Tapeats Creek. "This could also very well be the toughest long-weekend hike in Grand Canyon National Park," the online article said, "but you won't regret a single sunny mile."
Gillies talked with his parents about his planned hike. His father let him know that admission to the national parks was free that weekend, coinciding with his birthday. His parents didn't tell him that his birthday gift would be waiting at his Flagstaff apartment when he returned: a year's pass to the national parks.
Gillies talked to friends about the hike, his father said, but none could make it. One toyed with going and called Gillies that morning - Saturday, July 18 - but Gillies was already on his way to the North Rim.
The last specific time that anyone saw Gillies was at a general store that day. According to the National Park Service investigation, Gillies stopped in and bought a map for the dirt roads that lead to the trail. It was noon.
It would take two more hours to drive to the parking lot at the Bill Hall trailhead, said Anne Peterson, the ranger who was the incident commander in the Gillies search.
Gillies parked his car at the lot and loaded his backpack, leaving some food and a gallon of water behind in his car, anticipating being hungry and thirsty after his hike out three days later.
Investigators believe he started hiking around 3 p.m. The temperature on the rim reached 93 degrees that day. At the bottom of the Canyon, where he was headed, it would reach 114.
Gillies did not request a backcountry permit, as is required for overnight hikes in the Grand Canyon. He also didn't file his route with park rangers. Had he done so, park officials would have tried to talk him out of taking this brutal hike in the intense July heat.
Earlier that summer, the National Park Service sent out a warning about extreme temperatures at the Grand Canyon. It advised avoiding hiking completely between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. "These temperatures are beyond unpleasant or uncomfortable - they are, in fact, dangerous," the notice read, "and if you fail to factor the heat into your plan, the results could be tragic."
Surprise Valley
There is no way to pinpoint Gillies' exact route. Nor is it possible to know when he hiked to each point. But rangers did find clues that told them where Gillies was, and their experience leads them to sketch a rough idea of Gillies' descent into the Grand Canyon.
From his car, Gillies hiked about 2 miles along some switchbacks that led down into the Canyon. Once through the first descent, Gillies found himself on the Esplanade, a long, flat ridge rutted with potholes. It looks like a moonscape. Rangers figure it would have been 8 p.m. when Gillies reached this point.
It's common for hikers taking this trail to spend a night on the Esplanade's edge. And if Gillies did, setting up his tent on the rock surface, he would have enjoyed an unparalleled view of the Grand Canyon spread out below him. "On the rim, you don't get to see in the Canyon," Peterson said. "From the Esplanade, you are in the Canyon. You can see the whole thing."
Gillies' father is consoled by the thought of his son's peaceful night.
"He must have been the happiest guy on the planet," Randy Gillies said. "He was out doing something he loved to do, in a place that he loved so much."
Rangers found no sign of a campground, but, as a trained Eagle Scout, Gillies would have left no trace of his night there.
If he did camp there, he most likely started his descent of the Canyon's red wall at sunrise. It takes an experienced hiker about an hour to climb down.
At the bottom of the descent, Gillies entered Surprise Valley. It's not known how the area got its name. But there are theories based on hikers' experiences. It is a surprise that it is so hot. And it is a surprise because it seems every direction out is up.
Surprise Valley is shaped like a bowl. The low-rising side walls trap in heat and also make it seem like an unending stretch of desert.
It was in Surprise Valley that Gillies made a crucial error.
Ears playing tricks
Gillies was about a half-mile away from Thunder River, the waterway that cascades out of a cave wall. A hikers' guide describes it as "almost too good to be true" after the dusty, hot miles through Surprise Valley.
Gillies, it appears, had an opposite impression. His path might have seemed too desolate to be true. This can't be the right way.
His ears might also have played tricks on him. Depending on the way the wind is blowing, hikers in Surprise Valley can hear the sound of the water thundering out of the canyon wall. But that sound can bounce in odd directions, said Peterson, who hiked the same trail a month before Gillies did. The ear thinks the water is coming from one way, even though the map says to keep going another way.
Gillies followed the trail up a hill. It would have seemed logical that Thunder River was on the other side. Instead, he saw another valley, leading to another low hill. Had he kept going a quarter-mile more, to the top of that next hill, he would have seen a spot of white on the canyon wall. Below it was a vivid line of bright green that marked the path of Thunder River.
Instead, Gillies decided to backtrack. He dropped his backpack a few yards off the trail. He took out some food and water bottles and put them in a plastic bag. He also took out a head lamp. He then started retracing his steps.
The path along Surprise Valley crosses several drainages. Gillies' Eagle Scout training would have told him that dry creek beds eventually reach water. But, on the East Coast, a hiker doesn't have to go very far to find that water. In the desert, beds can stay dry for much of the year.
The Bonita Creek drainage runs only when severe monsoon storms force water down into it. Over time, those waters carved a rugged, violent path to the Colorado River.
Gillies, coming back across it, found something alluring about it. He decided to leave the trail and follow the dry creek bed.
It was not an easy trek. As soon as he left the trail, he encountered knee-high desert scrub brush that tore at his bare legs. But he wanted to keep going. He needed water.
Steep drops
There were no trees like those along his beloved Appalachian Trail, where hikers are covered by a canopy grown by nature. Here, he was in the open. From the midmorning to late afternoon, the temperature would get brutally hot.
It is possible that Gillies came down into Surprise Valley in the evening the same day he started his hike. But rangers think it more likely he was in this area in the day. The intense sun tends to dry the brain, they say, and that leads to a person not thinking clearly.
As he entered the creek bed, Gillies decided to drop the plastic bag that contained his food and water containers.
A little bit into the drainage, Gillies encountered a field of boulders the size of basketballs. Climbing rocks was one of Gillies' favorite activities, something he learned to do after moving to Flagstaff. He would do it here, scrambling on hands and feet for about a hundred yards.
Then he reached what would be the first of several steep drops. Rangers call it a "spill," and it is essentially a waterfall with no water.
They started off small, around 20 feet or so, manageable to an experienced hiker by scrambling down it, using hands and feet.
But after a few of these, he had no option of turning back. Rescuers later used rock-climbing equipment to climb these spills, and Gillies had none of that equipment. He was following this path until he reached water. This was the way he was going to go.
As he continued his hike, the ground became soft sand, like that found on a beach that feet sink into.
And along the path, Gillies kept coming to those spills - those dry waterfalls - that started getting steeper.
1 last, deep spill
Ahead of him, though, he could see the south wall of the Grand Canyon. He knew the Colorado River was below him and that it was getting closer.
As he dropped deeper and deeper into the Canyon, the temperature kept rising. The canyon walls around the creek bed also kept getting higher, radiating the brutal heat.
A bit farther on, Gillies came across a 30-foot spill. From this vantage point, he could see the Colorado River rushing below. Just a little more. Just get past this drop.
Rescuers tracing Gillies' path later did not think he had made it past this point. But then they saw footprints at the bottom of the spill. They told his father they didn't know how his son made it down the vertical drop, nor how he survived it.
From there, the sandy creek bed flattened and widened. Footprints showed that Gillies staggered through this area, sometimes walking in a circle.
He might have been dehydrated and stumbling. Or he might have been walking while looking up, like a tourist looking at a city's tall skyscrapers. Gillies might have been searching for a way out of the creek bed, Peterson said.
The Colorado River was about a half-mile away. He could hear the water, just as he might have heard the water up in Surprise Valley. Only this time, he knew which direction to go. If he could just get there.
The Canyon's walls grew taller around him as the path continued to widen.
Gillies came across one more spill. This one was dark, narrow and deep.
Topographic maps provided by the United States Geological Survey show the spill to be about 80 feet. Park rangers estimated it to be between 70 and 100 feet, about the height of a seven- to 10-story building.
Gillies did not know what it measured. He just would have calculated that making the jump would have led to his sure death.
Goodbye messages
Rescuers found Gillies' body here, sitting on the ground, resting against a boulder. The Coconino County medical examiner later determined Gillies died of heatstroke and dehydration.
His parents are pained by thinking of their son's final hours.
"I know my son did a hell of a job to get through these things," Randy Gillies said. "Those rangers said, 'Sir, he's one tough kid.' "
Gillies was supposed to be out of the Grand Canyon by Monday and on his way to Virginia by Tuesday. His father called park officials Tuesday when no one had heard from him.
Gillies was found Saturday, July 25. A search party on a boat along the Colorado River spotted his body at the top of the spill. Rescuers used rock-climbing equipment to reach his body. One week after he entered the Grand Canyon, Gillies was taken out of it.
Back in Ghana, Lum received a phone call telling her Gillies was dead.
"I kind of felt alone at that point," she said. As the only Westerner left in the area, in a country where death is accepted as part of God's will, she thought there would be no one to understand her grief.
She started telling people in the village about Gillies' death. But first she had to explain what hiking was and what the Grand Canyon was.
The nurses at the new clinic put a picture of Gillies on the wall as a dedication. In the photo, Bryce is standing outdoors and smiling.
Months after his death, Gillies' parents received the cellphone he had with him. It did not receive a signal in the Canyon, but Gillies used it to tap out two memos to friends and family.
"Life is good whether it is long or short," Gillies wrote. "I was fortunate enough to do and see much more than most, and for that good fortune, I am most thankful."
His messages included dashes of humor. He wrote that he was thankful he had his BlackBerry because it was easier to use it instead of chiseling a message in the rocks. He said he believed in God and was unsure what the afterlife held, " . . . but I hope there is water," he wrote.
His battery dying, Gillies typed out a final sentence: "I feel like going into the wild is a calling all feel, some answer and some die for."
Grand Canyon adventure turned tragic
by Richard Ruelas
The Arizona Republic
Bryce Gillies came to a clearing in the Grand Canyon and peered down at the Colorado River rushing past him. On either side of him were stark canyon walls enveloping him in this place of natural beauty. The 20-year-old was thirsty and hot after a long day of brutal hiking on this Saturday in mid-July, but he could do nothing about it. He had ditched his water bottles and food, and there was no way he could go back and reach them. He had jumped sheer rock faces - some more than 30 feet - on his way down, and it would be nearly impossible to climb back up them. There was also no way to the river below. The clearing led to a drop of around 80 feet. The fall would have killed him. He could not head left or right. The tall rock walls that defined his boundaries were nearly vertical and offered no footings. This place is where Gillies' hike would end.
Gillies, an Eagle Scout, engineering student and experienced outdoorsman, came to the Grand Canyon to cap off what had been a transformative summer. He had just returned from a remote village in Africa where he had volunteered to construct a building for a medical clinic. It was an empowering few weeks that stretched Gillies' physical and mental abilities and left him energized and fulfilled.
He wanted to celebrate the trip, and his 20th birthday, with a hike through the Grand Canyon. A backpacking magazine article he had read described a North Rim hike to a remote location where water gushed out of a limestone rock wall, transforming the desert landscape into a lush, green oasis.
Treacherous beauty
Rangers believe Gillies deviated from his intended path and hiked along a dry creek bed that offered no shade. The path he had read about was several yards away. It was that path that led to the spectacular natural spring. It was that path that would have led him through a loop back out of the Canyon and allowed him to continue his life.
Gillies became one of 12 tourists in 2009 who died at the Grand Canyon, the natural wonder that plays host to around 4.5 million visitors annually. He was one of the 10 visitors who died accidentally within the Canyon, four of whom were on backcountry trails. (The other two deaths were from a heart attack and a suicide.)
The Grand Canyon can be as naturally treacherous as it is gorgeous. Its beauty can sometimes mask those potential dangers.
Rangers say tourists are frequently lured into what might be called an impulsive hike. They cautiously inch their way along a trail at the South Rim, sometimes in flip-flops, and are pulled by the scenery to keep going. Some reach the Colorado River before they realize they are unprepared to make the hike back up and need to be flown out by helicopter.
Experienced hikers, inspired by exhilarating tales in magazines and guidebooks, come from all over the world to conquer the backcountry trails. A permitting office at the Canyon offers advice and gently prods people away from dangerous hikes, sometimes by asking hikers to leave information about their next of kin.
Gillies seemed well-qualified for the hike, having spent his childhood tromping through the mountains of Virginia. His Eagle Scout training taught him to be self-reliant and to use a compass and map in remote areas. He had recently conquered Mount Baldy in California and Sandia Peak in New Mexico. He had also hiked the Grand Canyon's main trails during his freshman year at Northern Arizona University.
Gillies also seemed to have a good temperament for this hike. He could be competitive and determined. But he was not headstrong. Nor was he reckless.
New challenges
"We were wondering if he'd be safe in Africa," his mother, Warna Gillies, said. "Here, we lose him in the Grand Canyon. You just don't know what's going to happen."
Gillies grew up in Fairfax County, Va., outside of Washington, D.C. He joined the Boy Scouts, deepening his love of the outdoors. He stayed with it through high school - something only about half of Scouts do - and became an Eagle Scout.
Gillies was fond of the Appalachian Trail and the mountain parks around his Virginia home. His father said he would sometimes average 20 miles a day.
With the Scouts, he learned navigation skills, twice visiting the Philmont Scout Ranch in New Mexico, a 200-square-mile wilderness area where Scouts prove their mettle, said his scoutmaster, Jim Ahlgrimm.
That New Mexico camp - rocky and rugged - was different from the tree-laden hills of Virginia. Gillies yearned for more adventures in this new terrain.
After high school, Gillies visited colleges out West and fell in love with the Flagstaff campus of NAU.
"He said, 'This is it. I love this place,' " his father, Randy Gillies, remembered.
It was on the NAU campus that the mechanical-engineering major found Engineers Without Borders. The group organized students who wanted to work on volunteer projects that used their skills.
In the past few years, the chapter had traveled to a remote village called Yua, in the northern portion of Ghana, that had no electricity or plumbing and sporadic access to clean water. The main project for the summer of 2009 was building nurses' quarters near the medical clinic.
Gillies arrived in Ghana's capital May 25, according to an online journal of the group's activities. It was 100 degrees, with 80 percent humidity.
But the day Gillies arrived, the man who had been the chief engineer on the project came down with a severe case of malaria that required him to be hospitalized. Within a few days, he decided to head back to the United States. The team's faculty adviser went with him.
Now, the engineering would be in the hands of Gillies, who did not know the terrain or the language and who had never constructed a building.
Africa clinic
Jessica Lum, who was also on her first trip to Ghana, said she felt scared and nervous about suddenly managing the project.
"All of a sudden, we were left with this huge task to do, and the people who know anything about the culture were gone," she said.
The students recruited people from the village to help with labor. Most of them did not speak English, Lum said, and those who did had a tough time pronouncing Bryce's name. He became known instead as "Bright."
The new building was constructed by July. It gave the nurses a place to sleep, opening up a room in the small clinic that they had been using as a bedroom. The clinic would be powered by a solar array that Gillies also engineered.
Gillies and two other members of the team came back to the United States. Lum stayed behind to put the finishing touches on the clinic and to do more volunteer work.
Gillies had about a month before classes began at NAU. He had planned to spend a good chunk of that time at his parents' house in Virginia. But before then, he had a few days free at his apartment in Flagstaff. And the Grand Canyon beckoned.
"He chose to do (the hike) on one of the harder times of the year," his father said. "He kind of took on the Canyon."
Gillies had seen an article in the online edition of Backpacker magazine that told of the Deer Creek-Thunder River Loop.
The trail, the Web site said, "dishes out enough superlatives to send a guidebook writer running for a thesaurus."
Very strong hikers could do the 27.6-mile loop in three days, the Web site said. Gillies considered himself a very strong hiker.
The plan, according to the article Gillies read, had him taking the Bill Hall trail down to the Thunder River Trail. This was supposed to be the hardest part of the hike, with a drop of 2,000 feet over 2.5 miles. There was then a 3-mile hike across the relatively flat Esplanade before climbing down to Surprise Valley.
After that, it was supposed to be "payoff time," the article said.
Last time he was seen
Gillies would see the Thunder River spring out of a limestone wall. He would hike along its banks as it roared to Tapeats Creek. "This could also very well be the toughest long-weekend hike in Grand Canyon National Park," the online article said, "but you won't regret a single sunny mile."
Gillies talked with his parents about his planned hike. His father let him know that admission to the national parks was free that weekend, coinciding with his birthday. His parents didn't tell him that his birthday gift would be waiting at his Flagstaff apartment when he returned: a year's pass to the national parks.
Gillies talked to friends about the hike, his father said, but none could make it. One toyed with going and called Gillies that morning - Saturday, July 18 - but Gillies was already on his way to the North Rim.
The last specific time that anyone saw Gillies was at a general store that day. According to the National Park Service investigation, Gillies stopped in and bought a map for the dirt roads that lead to the trail. It was noon.
It would take two more hours to drive to the parking lot at the Bill Hall trailhead, said Anne Peterson, the ranger who was the incident commander in the Gillies search.
Gillies parked his car at the lot and loaded his backpack, leaving some food and a gallon of water behind in his car, anticipating being hungry and thirsty after his hike out three days later.
Investigators believe he started hiking around 3 p.m. The temperature on the rim reached 93 degrees that day. At the bottom of the Canyon, where he was headed, it would reach 114.
Gillies did not request a backcountry permit, as is required for overnight hikes in the Grand Canyon. He also didn't file his route with park rangers. Had he done so, park officials would have tried to talk him out of taking this brutal hike in the intense July heat.
Earlier that summer, the National Park Service sent out a warning about extreme temperatures at the Grand Canyon. It advised avoiding hiking completely between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. "These temperatures are beyond unpleasant or uncomfortable - they are, in fact, dangerous," the notice read, "and if you fail to factor the heat into your plan, the results could be tragic."
Surprise Valley
There is no way to pinpoint Gillies' exact route. Nor is it possible to know when he hiked to each point. But rangers did find clues that told them where Gillies was, and their experience leads them to sketch a rough idea of Gillies' descent into the Grand Canyon.
From his car, Gillies hiked about 2 miles along some switchbacks that led down into the Canyon. Once through the first descent, Gillies found himself on the Esplanade, a long, flat ridge rutted with potholes. It looks like a moonscape. Rangers figure it would have been 8 p.m. when Gillies reached this point.
It's common for hikers taking this trail to spend a night on the Esplanade's edge. And if Gillies did, setting up his tent on the rock surface, he would have enjoyed an unparalleled view of the Grand Canyon spread out below him. "On the rim, you don't get to see in the Canyon," Peterson said. "From the Esplanade, you are in the Canyon. You can see the whole thing."
Gillies' father is consoled by the thought of his son's peaceful night.
"He must have been the happiest guy on the planet," Randy Gillies said. "He was out doing something he loved to do, in a place that he loved so much."
Rangers found no sign of a campground, but, as a trained Eagle Scout, Gillies would have left no trace of his night there.
If he did camp there, he most likely started his descent of the Canyon's red wall at sunrise. It takes an experienced hiker about an hour to climb down.
At the bottom of the descent, Gillies entered Surprise Valley. It's not known how the area got its name. But there are theories based on hikers' experiences. It is a surprise that it is so hot. And it is a surprise because it seems every direction out is up.
Surprise Valley is shaped like a bowl. The low-rising side walls trap in heat and also make it seem like an unending stretch of desert.
It was in Surprise Valley that Gillies made a crucial error.
Ears playing tricks
Gillies was about a half-mile away from Thunder River, the waterway that cascades out of a cave wall. A hikers' guide describes it as "almost too good to be true" after the dusty, hot miles through Surprise Valley.
Gillies, it appears, had an opposite impression. His path might have seemed too desolate to be true. This can't be the right way.
His ears might also have played tricks on him. Depending on the way the wind is blowing, hikers in Surprise Valley can hear the sound of the water thundering out of the canyon wall. But that sound can bounce in odd directions, said Peterson, who hiked the same trail a month before Gillies did. The ear thinks the water is coming from one way, even though the map says to keep going another way.
Gillies followed the trail up a hill. It would have seemed logical that Thunder River was on the other side. Instead, he saw another valley, leading to another low hill. Had he kept going a quarter-mile more, to the top of that next hill, he would have seen a spot of white on the canyon wall. Below it was a vivid line of bright green that marked the path of Thunder River.
Instead, Gillies decided to backtrack. He dropped his backpack a few yards off the trail. He took out some food and water bottles and put them in a plastic bag. He also took out a head lamp. He then started retracing his steps.
The path along Surprise Valley crosses several drainages. Gillies' Eagle Scout training would have told him that dry creek beds eventually reach water. But, on the East Coast, a hiker doesn't have to go very far to find that water. In the desert, beds can stay dry for much of the year.
The Bonita Creek drainage runs only when severe monsoon storms force water down into it. Over time, those waters carved a rugged, violent path to the Colorado River.
Gillies, coming back across it, found something alluring about it. He decided to leave the trail and follow the dry creek bed.
It was not an easy trek. As soon as he left the trail, he encountered knee-high desert scrub brush that tore at his bare legs. But he wanted to keep going. He needed water.
Steep drops
There were no trees like those along his beloved Appalachian Trail, where hikers are covered by a canopy grown by nature. Here, he was in the open. From the midmorning to late afternoon, the temperature would get brutally hot.
It is possible that Gillies came down into Surprise Valley in the evening the same day he started his hike. But rangers think it more likely he was in this area in the day. The intense sun tends to dry the brain, they say, and that leads to a person not thinking clearly.
As he entered the creek bed, Gillies decided to drop the plastic bag that contained his food and water containers.
A little bit into the drainage, Gillies encountered a field of boulders the size of basketballs. Climbing rocks was one of Gillies' favorite activities, something he learned to do after moving to Flagstaff. He would do it here, scrambling on hands and feet for about a hundred yards.
Then he reached what would be the first of several steep drops. Rangers call it a "spill," and it is essentially a waterfall with no water.
They started off small, around 20 feet or so, manageable to an experienced hiker by scrambling down it, using hands and feet.
But after a few of these, he had no option of turning back. Rescuers later used rock-climbing equipment to climb these spills, and Gillies had none of that equipment. He was following this path until he reached water. This was the way he was going to go.
As he continued his hike, the ground became soft sand, like that found on a beach that feet sink into.
And along the path, Gillies kept coming to those spills - those dry waterfalls - that started getting steeper.
1 last, deep spill
Ahead of him, though, he could see the south wall of the Grand Canyon. He knew the Colorado River was below him and that it was getting closer.
As he dropped deeper and deeper into the Canyon, the temperature kept rising. The canyon walls around the creek bed also kept getting higher, radiating the brutal heat.
A bit farther on, Gillies came across a 30-foot spill. From this vantage point, he could see the Colorado River rushing below. Just a little more. Just get past this drop.
Rescuers tracing Gillies' path later did not think he had made it past this point. But then they saw footprints at the bottom of the spill. They told his father they didn't know how his son made it down the vertical drop, nor how he survived it.
From there, the sandy creek bed flattened and widened. Footprints showed that Gillies staggered through this area, sometimes walking in a circle.
He might have been dehydrated and stumbling. Or he might have been walking while looking up, like a tourist looking at a city's tall skyscrapers. Gillies might have been searching for a way out of the creek bed, Peterson said.
The Colorado River was about a half-mile away. He could hear the water, just as he might have heard the water up in Surprise Valley. Only this time, he knew which direction to go. If he could just get there.
The Canyon's walls grew taller around him as the path continued to widen.
Gillies came across one more spill. This one was dark, narrow and deep.
Topographic maps provided by the United States Geological Survey show the spill to be about 80 feet. Park rangers estimated it to be between 70 and 100 feet, about the height of a seven- to 10-story building.
Gillies did not know what it measured. He just would have calculated that making the jump would have led to his sure death.
Goodbye messages
Rescuers found Gillies' body here, sitting on the ground, resting against a boulder. The Coconino County medical examiner later determined Gillies died of heatstroke and dehydration.
His parents are pained by thinking of their son's final hours.
"I know my son did a hell of a job to get through these things," Randy Gillies said. "Those rangers said, 'Sir, he's one tough kid.' "
Gillies was supposed to be out of the Grand Canyon by Monday and on his way to Virginia by Tuesday. His father called park officials Tuesday when no one had heard from him.
Gillies was found Saturday, July 25. A search party on a boat along the Colorado River spotted his body at the top of the spill. Rescuers used rock-climbing equipment to reach his body. One week after he entered the Grand Canyon, Gillies was taken out of it.
Back in Ghana, Lum received a phone call telling her Gillies was dead.
"I kind of felt alone at that point," she said. As the only Westerner left in the area, in a country where death is accepted as part of God's will, she thought there would be no one to understand her grief.
She started telling people in the village about Gillies' death. But first she had to explain what hiking was and what the Grand Canyon was.
The nurses at the new clinic put a picture of Gillies on the wall as a dedication. In the photo, Bryce is standing outdoors and smiling.
Months after his death, Gillies' parents received the cellphone he had with him. It did not receive a signal in the Canyon, but Gillies used it to tap out two memos to friends and family.
"Life is good whether it is long or short," Gillies wrote. "I was fortunate enough to do and see much more than most, and for that good fortune, I am most thankful."
His messages included dashes of humor. He wrote that he was thankful he had his BlackBerry because it was easier to use it instead of chiseling a message in the rocks. He said he believed in God and was unsure what the afterlife held, " . . . but I hope there is water," he wrote.
His battery dying, Gillies typed out a final sentence: "I feel like going into the wild is a calling all feel, some answer and some die for."
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joshvk121Guides: 0 | Official Routes: 0Triplogs Last: none | RS: 0Water Reports 1Y: 0 | Last: never
- Joined: Jul 05 2009 1:18 pm
- City, State: mesa
Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
We went on this hike about a month before bryce... First time hiking... An 8 day journey to deer creek , upper and lower tepeats , and thunder river.... I am lucky i was with other people because when we got to surprise valley i took a wrong turn and started walking in the same direction as bryce.... Luckily we had a big group and we were all paired up with someone else...
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berkforbesGuides: 0 | Official Routes: 0Triplogs Last: 4,829 d | RS: 0Water Reports 1Y: 0 | Last: 4,927 d
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
the last two paragraphs made me ball like a baby.. my man card just got revoked.. 

"Rather love, than money, than fame, give me truth."
-Henry David Thoreau
-Henry David Thoreau
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JoelHazeltonGuides: 16 | Official Routes: 1Triplogs Last: 15 d | RS: 1Water Reports 1Y: 2 | Last: 76 d
- Joined: Mar 22 2006 7:45 am
- City, State: Phoenix, AZ
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
berkforbes wrote:the last two paragraphs made me ball like a baby.. my man card just got revoked..

"Arizona is the land of contrast... You can go from Minnesota to California in a matter of minutes, then have Mexican food that night." -Jack Dykinga
http://www.joelhazelton.com
http://www.joelhazelton.com
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JimmyLydingGuides: 111 | Official Routes: 94Triplogs Last: 539 d | RS: 0Water Reports 1Y: 0 | Last: 2,111 d
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- City, State: Walnut Creek, CA
Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
The ending stuck with me as well. What a terrible tragedy.
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PaleoRobGuides: 171 | Official Routes: 78Triplogs Last: 443 d | RS: 24Water Reports 1Y: 0 | Last: 831 d
- Joined: Apr 03 2006 12:21 pm
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
"I just hope there's water"
I hope I can approach my end with as much levity.
I hope I can approach my end with as much levity.
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CanyonramGuides: 0 | Official Routes: 0Triplogs Last: none | RS: 0Water Reports 1Y: 0 | Last: never
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Re: Overdue Canyon backpackers [ Bryce Gillies ]
The Arizona Republic Sunday edition newspaper on Jan 3 2010 had a long article covering the tragic death of Bryce Gillies. The article answered many of the questions posted above. Terrible loss since this young man looked to have a bright future---he had just returned from missionary work and was doing the hike for a birthday celebration. Rest in Peace. The Canyon is yours forever.
"I shot a werewolf once. But by the time I went to retrieve it, it changed into my neighbor's dog." D. Schruete
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