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| Backpack | 21.09 Miles |
3,626 AEG |
| | Backpack | 21.09 Miles | 1 Day 8 Hrs 48 Mns | | |
| 3,626 ft AEG | | | | |
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| no partners | | This is one of the most popular hikes in Idaho, and deservedly so. I first did it as part of a much longer trip, 8 years ago to the day, in a year when visitation was greatly reduced by two fires in progress and temps over 100F, even at altitude. We were out for a week on that trip and only saw three people before the last day. This time I brought Mrs. big_load for a shorter jaunt among the Alpine Lakes.
We spent the night before at the USFS campground at Pettit Lake. Clouds rolled in at dusk, and it rained hard overnight, but it was clearing in the morning. We thought the rain might hold off the crowds, but were informed by a ranger at the TH that a group of 14 first-time backpackers was on its way. After getting the "since we're all here" LNT talk, we scurried up the trail as fast as possible to outdistance the throngs. Life was great until halfway up the first ascent, when fresh clouds poured over the pass in a brisk wind and it started raining sideways. Dayhikers in shorts breezed past us with little concern for the weather, but we broke out the rain gear. Moments later, the rain turned to snow.
We rested until the snow eased, then pressed on, but it came back harder. As we neared Alice Lake, where the group of 14 would be staying, the dayhikers were turning back and advised us to do the same. Then came two groups of backpackers, who thought we were nuts to continue. It really wasn't too bad, though. We reached Twin Lakes in a brief clear moment and picked a wonderful site on the peninsula. Mrs. big_load was getting chilled, so I gave her my jacket and she curled up in her sleeping bag, although it was only mid-afternoon. I fired up some cocoa and explored for a while. She eventually warmed up and cheered for the occasional patches of blue between snow squalls. Nearly all the snow melted soon after landing.
Meanwhile, the hordes were arriving. We apparently weren't the only ones who brushed off the dire warnings. First there was a group of four geezers, possibly younger than me, then a group of seven scouts and their leader, and a few other isolated arrivals. Our quiet lake was now as crowded as Alice a few hundred feet below. It was a far cry from seeing only three other hikers in a week. Even so, it couldn't detract from the beauty around us. We had a great dinner and although clouds and fog poured in from the pass above, it soon retreated. After a few more cups of hot chocolate, it was time for bed, and we were almost tired enough to sleep through the whooping boy scouts.
After dark, the clouds blew off, stars filled the sky, and temps plummeted to the low 20s. The moon came out and the scouts ran out of gas. We rose at dawn, scarfed down breakfast, and hit the trail while they were still snoring. It's a steep climb over the headwall, but not too bad in the cool of the morning. The second day would be about 14 miles with all the switchbacks, so we kept moving. There were plenty of deer and birds about, and we had the place to ourselves most of the day, which was mostly downhill.
There was nobody at Toxaway, which was bigger than I remember it. I had also forgotten how the trail goes up several hundred feet on the bench above the lake to get around numerous marshes and to gain easier stream crossings. By late morning it was pretty warm, probably around 80F. As we approached the lower lakes, opposing traffic started to build, including a few strings of pack horses, a herd of backpackers, and some fishermen. Pushing uphill in the heat was taking quite a toll on them. Going downhill was taking a toll on Mrs. big_load, who has more than a few years on most of them, and probably hasn't made more than 11 miles with a pack on before. She help up well, even through the 450 ft climb and matching descent right at the end.
Passing the trailhead in high spirits, we met a USFS rep who was taking a survey of exiting hikers. We answered questions and gabbed for 20 minutes about berries, flowers, and favorite forests before rushing off to Stanley for some town food, and returning for another quiet night at Pettit Lake. In the morning, we splurged for pay showers at Redfish Lake and ate a fancy breakfast at Redfish Lake Lodge, with an outstanding view of the Sawtooths through the wall of windows.
Mrs. big_load disliked the cold and the long second day, but this was her first real excursion into the alpine, and she considered it well worth the trouble. Next time, I'm going for a less popular route, though.
(Pics to come) |
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Wildflowers Observation Moderate
Lupines, Mariposa Lilies, Penstemons, many Asteracaea, other typical alpine flowers. Currants and Raspberries were in fruit, Strawberries long gone. |
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Route Editor
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