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| Hike & Climb | 22.34 Miles |
3,896 AEG |
| | Hike & Climb | 22.34 Miles | | | |
| 3,896 ft AEG | | | | |
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| Second IV PG • Trad • 5.9 Sandstone Not good • 700 Feet 9 Pitches | | |
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| partners | | | Pro: Bring a double rack, bring iron, bring a lot of slings, some webbing and strong nerves. | After a short turn around from Buddha, it was back to the Canyon for a summit attempt of a western Grand Canyon icon, the Dome.
A 5:00 a.m. Friday morning departure from Phoenix got us to the eastern Tuckup Trailhead by about noon. By 12:30 we were beginning the rugged 11 mile rugged approach along the Tuckup Trail/Route to basically the base of the Dome and the start of our climb the next day. Heavy packs again ruled the day on this trip, as all three of us were carrying 6-8 liters of water for the three days to go along with: two 70m ropes, a double rack, pitons, hammer, 3 days worth of food, general supplies and personal climbing equipment. We arrived to camp after 5.5 hours. The total distance was 11.5 miles. The Tuckup Trail was a little rugged and elusive at times. The stress of potentially three days without water was greatly reduced when we encountered good water at Cottonwood Spring at nearly the exact half way point. I would learn after the fact that its suggested that you do not drink this water. Early to bed for an early wake up.
Day two was an alpine start in the desert. After a steep but brief scramble we were at the scary (hands and knees at times) traverse through the hermit shale transition zone to the base of the climb. After an attention grabbing traverse, Sean was soon leading the first pitch by 6:30 a.m.
There were nine pitches on this climb and it would be too daunting to describe everyone of them in detail. However, I will describe the general gist of the climb. The pitches ranged from moderately sandbagged climbing to tough awkward climbing to real heady climbing and to downright loose, insecure dangerous climbing. Pernell and Sean swapped leads for the entire climb. Meanwhile, I did my best to keep the ropes managed and moving. The climb did not let up for one minute really. After the first four pitches, there was a tedious traverse across the top ridgeline that took careful scrambling, down-climbing and two raps just to reach the headwall and the final pitches of the massive climb. The final pitch was a 15 foot wall made of dried mud that was essentially a free solo as it took no pro and there were no great spots for drilling or hammering pitons. Pernell led the short, but spicy 5.9. From the top of the last pitch, it was a pleasant stroll up the steep hill to the unique summit. After a brief stay on the summit, we had to encounter our biggest anxiety of the day, “how are we going to get down?”
We had to sling a bush just to do some controlled scrambling down the steep east slope of the summit, where the real scary fun would begin. A narrow traverse was needed to link back up with the end of the 8th pitch. The traverse was airy and completely exposed, so we chose to pitch it out and cross with a belay. From the top of the 8th pitch, it was all about finding ways to safely build rap anchors. We used a combination of nuts and pitons to complete two raps that got us to the predominant saddle dividing the distinct ridgeline of the Dome. From there we utilized a piton and an old bolt to rig a two rope, 200 plus foot rap to reach the ground. It took us 10.5 hours to complete the climb and descend to the base.
Saturday evening it was all high spirits at camp. We spent a lot of time laughing about the absurd danger/nature of the climb, the spicy moments and generally marveled at our accomplishment. We thought about all the parties that turned around on this climb and the boldness of the first ascent. I don't think we could have been more content at that moment. Our amazing day was then capped off with a spectacular moon rise directly over the Dome.
It’s hard to grasp the enormity of this one and I could not be more grateful for the opportunity to join these two veteran Canyon climbers on this one. The Dome is undoubtedly the pinnacle of Grand Canyon climbing and I am almost in a state of disbelief that I was able to take part in this ascent. By our best calculations and information from the Canyon climbing community, we believe we were between the sixth and tenth party to ascend this summit.
28th Grand Canyon Summit. |
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Cottonwood Spring |
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| | | I drank two liters from this spring. They say it is mineralized and drinking the water is not advised. | | _____________________
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