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|  | | Poetry in Motion |
 | Second | 5.10a | Trad | R | 3 Pitches | 485 ft | | | Single rack to BD #4, large set of nuts, tricams, slings. | | | I headed down to Cochise for the first time on Saturday. Myself and Tyler got on an old hardman classic, Poetry in Motion.
With two R rated pitches this routed is not for everyone and I have no shame in saying I let Tyler lead all three of them. The first pitch is an old school 5.6 that starts off with a 70 foot run out to the first bolt and that pretty much sum up that pitch. From there is an airy hanging belay for the second pitch, which takes gear for the majority of the pitch. Tyler got a little off route and ended up clipping another bolt on a different route. This created some fun for me in cleaning it, as cleaning it opened up a nice 20 foot pendulum for me back to the proper route. TThe second pitch ends with an unprotected, exposed 45-50 foot right to left traverse to the chains. The third pitch was perhaps the crux at 5.10- R. Three bolts and some well placed nuts were the only protection for the 160 feet or so pitch. Big props to Tyler for the heady lead on this one. 5.10R, 400 feet off the deck, might as well be free soling.
Final Notes:
What an amazing area and what an amazing intro to Cochise for me. I can't wait to refine my slab game some and come back. For a little back history, this route is kept at the R rating on purpose. There is some nostalgia attached to the route, as it was the first ascent up the end pinnacle. The route is bolted in the exact same way the original FA bolted it on their first climb. The boldness in this route can been seen in the fact that there are only 11 ticks for it on Mountain Project. By comparison, the route next to it (End Game) has 153 ticks. |
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