Queen Creek Cyn / Devil's Cyn Upper - Throne • Climb Trip • Arizona • All Triplogs • HikeArizona.COM

Guides 10
Routes 673
Photos 7,281
Triplogs 4,660

67 female

Joined Nov 17 2008
phoenix, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		May 27 2019
		trekkin_gecko • Triplogs 4,660

Climbing	1.00 Miles	400 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles
	400 ft AEG

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Fletchkl


Stuart Little	5.6	Sport	1 Pitch	40 ft

Dr. Giggles	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	50 ft

The Jester	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	50 ft

Lumberjack	5.8

great day of climbing in upper devils canyon with mike and fletch
last time here was six years ago

haven't been outside much this year, so it took me a couple of climbs to feel comfortable on the rock
we did three routes on the throne, then moved into the pancake house
climbed too stiff to tip, a 5.7 and French toast, a 5.9
finished with lumberjack, just outside the pancake house
mike led all routes, fletch led three, i did all routes on toprope
great weather, even a bit chilly in the shade with a breeze
fun to revisit this place - johnr1 and i climbed here several times
nice to get outside again

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hazhole

Mar 30 2019

FOTG

Guides 37
Routes 556
Photos 10,872
Triplogs 1,052

43 male

Joined Jan 21 2013
AZ

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Mar 30 2019
		FOTG • Triplogs 1,052

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Blanco


Stuart Little	5.6

Cracker Jack Crack	5.7	Trad

The Jester	5.7

A nice short day of climbing in Upper Devils. The main goal was to get in another trad lead, but I cherry picked some easier sport leads in the process. Trad lead went well, a little tricky in the middle for me. Mainly foot placement and being happy with my pro. But some nice bomber placements higher up had me climbing confidently. Beelined to the chains on The Jester to finish, which led it out a little at the end, but good holds and easy climbing.

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1 archive

Apr 30 2016

CoryTallman

Guides 1
Routes 1
Photos 665
Triplogs 55

31 male

Joined Jun 19 2015
San Tan Valley A

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Apr 30 2016
		CoryTallman • Triplogs 55

Climbing	1.00 Miles	400 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles
	400 ft AEG

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•••	Cracker Jack Crack	Lead	5.7

••	Dr. Giggles	Lead	5.7

••	Squeeze Play	Lead	5.7

•••	The Jester	Lead	5.7

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Feb 20 2016

juliachaos

Routes 37
Photos 2,160
Triplogs 627

43 female

Joined Mar 01 2010
Phoenix, AZ

Queen Creek Cyn / Lost Wall - Upper Devils

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Feb 20 2016
		juliachaos • Triplogs 627

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jimmydIsorder


Dr. Giggles	Toprope	5.7
my favorite of the three 7's in this area

Squeeze Play	Toprope	5.7

The Jester	Toprope	5.7

Got notified a few days ago that some climbers were getting together for a memorial climb and dedication to John Scott/johnr1. We met up at Lost Wall, beneath his final route, where they had installed a plaque in his memory. The route has been renamed "Great Scott" (formerly Projectiles). We then shared some memories and experiences with John.

Afterwards, we went up top, had a small potluck-style lunch, and then went over to the Throne where there was shade. Had a nice afternoon of easy climbing with a good group of people.

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Feb 02 2014

Guides 4
Routes 17
Photos 8
Triplogs 340

78 male

Joined Dec 22 2007
tempe, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Feb 02 2014
		johnr1 • Triplogs 340

Climbing	1.00 Miles	600 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles	8 Hrs	0.50 mph
	600 ft AEG

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	Cool Breeze	5.4	Sport

••	Stuart Little	5.6	Sport	1 Pitch	30 ft

•	Dr. Giggles	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	35 ft

•	Hidden Treasure	5.7	Sport	1 Pitch	30 ft

Provided rope gun service for a group of gym climbers. Put up 5 routes and also top roped a couple of them. New skill/thrill was putting up Dr Giggles and Stuart Little as separate climbs on one rope. Worked great keeping people climbing while we put up the rest of the ropes. Only issue was having to think through the cleaning process.

Helped one gentleman get his first outdoor lead on the new short route next to lumber jack. Fun to see people achieve new goals and he was one happy climber.

dinner at los hermanos where we now rate a hug from Flo for our many visits (and generous tips)

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Feb 01 2014

Guides 4
Routes 17
Photos 8
Triplogs 340

78 male

Joined Dec 22 2007
tempe, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Feb 01 2014
		johnr1 • Triplogs 340

Climbing	1.00 Miles	600 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles	8 Hrs	1.00 mph
	600 ft AEG

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••	Stuart Little	5.6	Sport	1 Pitch	30 ft

•	Hidden Treasure	5.7	Sport	1 Pitch	30 ft

meet up group. Easy day with only 3 routes.

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Oct 07 2013

Guides 10
Routes 673
Photos 7,281
Triplogs 4,660

67 female

Joined Nov 17 2008
phoenix, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Oct 07 2013
		trekkin_gecko • Triplogs 4,660

Climbing	1.00 Miles	500 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles
	500 ft AEG

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Cool Breeze	5.4	Sport		1 Pitch	40 ft

No Breeze	5.7	Sport		1 Pitch	50 ft

Too Stiff To Tip	5.7	Sport		1 Pitch	50 ft

French Toast	5.8	Toprope	G	1 Pitch	65 ft

first time climbing outside with fletch today
she is one of my gym partners, and i've climbed several things with her partner mike
fletch wanted to get some leading in, so we went to the pancake house for the shade and because i am familiar with the climbs
started with cool breeze, next was hidden treasure on the throne wall, then too stiff to tip and french toast inside the pancake house, finishing with no breeze on the outside
had fun and it was great to see fletch climbing well again
she is a far better climber than i am outdoors

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hazhole

Sep 30 2013

Guides 10
Routes 673
Photos 7,281
Triplogs 4,660

67 female

Joined Nov 17 2008
phoenix, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Sep 30 2013
		trekkin_gecko • Triplogs 4,660

Climbing	1.00 Miles	500 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles
	500 ft AEG

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johnr1


Cool Breeze	5.4	Sport		1 Pitch	40 ft

French Toast	5.8	Toprope	G	1 Pitch	65 ft

LumberJack	5.8	Toprope		1 Pitch	65 ft

john had a monday off, so we headed to queen creek
cool enough to climb at upper devil's, especially the pancake house
started on stuart little, on the throne wall
for some reason i simply could not execute the needed move leading
john led it, then i did it easily on top rope
i've led this one before, but often seem to need a climb or two to get into leading
moved on to cool breeze, which has some exposure on the outside of the pancake house
then led a mix of lumberjack and a newer climb just to the right of it
set a top rope to do both climbs as they were intended
last climb of the day was french toast, which is rated 5.9 on mountain project
john went first, and led it awesomely!
had fun as always
too bad we both had to get back into town, forgoing los hermanos this time

we'll be back

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hazhole

Sep 30 2013

Guides 4
Routes 17
Photos 8
Triplogs 340

78 male

Joined Dec 22 2007
tempe, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Sep 30 2013
		johnr1 • Triplogs 340

Climbing	1.00 Miles	500 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles	6 Hrs	0.17 mph
	500 ft AEG

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trekkin_gecko


Cool Breeze	5.4	Sport

French Toast	5.8	Sport	G

LumberJack	5.8	Sport

Rare opportunity to climb with Kelly on her day off meaning we had the entire Queen Creek area to ourselves. We did one sun exposed route on the Throne wall as a warm up and then scurried into the shade of pancake house. I was thrilled to lead French toast which MP carries as a 5.9. Hardest lead for me so far. Naturally Kelly sent it with ease. Also worked in "new" Lumberjack on top rope and enjoyed the view from the top of cool breeze. Played with the start of "old" lumberjack but it still escapes me but gives an excuse to come back to my favorite close in sport climb area.

skipped los hermanos as I had to get to the airport for business trip.

Weather was great as was the company

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Mar 17 2013

Guides 10
Routes 673
Photos 7,281
Triplogs 4,660

67 female

Joined Nov 17 2008
phoenix, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Mar 17 2013
		trekkin_gecko • Triplogs 4,660

Climbing	1.00 Miles	400 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles
	400 ft AEG

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johnr1


Stuart Little	5.6	Sport	1 Pitch	40 ft

Cracker Jack Crack	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	45 ft

Dr. Giggles	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	50 ft

Hidden Treasure	5.7	Sport	1 Pitch	40 ft

Squeeze Play	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	50 ft

The Jester	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	50 ft

third trip to upper devils with john
lots of climbing for our level in one area
led stuart little to start with, and had my usual adjustments to make
there are four climbs on this wall, and we moved our rope over each time to top rope the next
we were also able to climb cracker jack crack from the anchors next door
my favorite on this wall was squeeze play, and that will be a lead climb next time
moved our gear to another area and led hidden treasure
there are two newer bolted lines between lumberjack and hidden treasure
can't find any beta on them, but i led the shorter one, making it more difficult than necessary
only three leads today, but four new climbs and nine total
want to return for the pancake house routes next time
shared our last spot with an interesting group

more people here than i've ever seen, likely due to the beautiful weather
a nice dinner at los hermanos on the way out of town
which reminds me that my apple pie is still out in my truck
not to late to have that for breakfast
many thanks for another great day on the rock, john

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hazhole

Mar 17 2013

Guides 4
Routes 17
Photos 8
Triplogs 340

78 male

Joined Dec 22 2007
tempe, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Mar 17 2013
		johnr1 • Triplogs 340

Climbing	1.00 Miles	400 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles
	400 ft AEG

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trekkin_gecko


••	Stuart Little	5.6	Sport	1 Pitch	30 ft

	Cracker Jack Crack	5.7	Toprope

•	Dr. Giggles	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	35 ft

•	Hidden Treasure	5.7	Sport	1 Pitch	30 ft

	Squeeze Play	5.7	Toprope

	The Jester	5.7

Craging delight with Kelly at one of my favorite areas - Upper Devils.

The origional plan was to go to the Pond but there was a small brush fire darkening the initial approach climb so we passed by. Thanks to Kelly's work schedule we got an early spot and pretty much staked our claim to the Throne wall where we climbed every route. It was a bit heady as we had most recently (2 days) been on the rock at Papago which is nothing like the pockets and edges of Queen Creek. However we got over it and enjoyed climbing some new stuff including Cracker Jack Crack. This route had a wonderful mix of moves including steming, mantling and hand/foot jamming. I could get into crack climbing if I could find more of these to climb.

The branch has broken off the tree which many of us used as the start to Lumberjack. Sad as you now have to belly up to the wall and climb thin slab at the start which is the way I am sure Marty intended it to be.

Replacing the limb are two new short bolted routes that dont appear in the guide. We climbed one which is probably a 5.3 and left the other harder one for the future. A combination of excessivly animated climbers and a hungry Kelly caused us to quit while we were on top and head home.

Perfect weather and much cooler than our clamber at Papago

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Oct 14 2012

Guides 4
Routes 17
Photos 8
Triplogs 340

78 male

Joined Dec 22 2007
tempe, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Oct 14 2012
		johnr1 • Triplogs 340

Climbing	1.00 Miles	300 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles
	300 ft AEG

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trekkin_gecko


	Cool Breeze	5.4	Sport

••	Stuart Little	5.6	Sport	1 Pitch	30 ft

•	Dr. Giggles	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	35 ft

	No breeze	5.7	Sport

Perfect fall climbing weather and the entire upper devils to ourselves - all day. This was the outing we had been witing for after driving for hours to the mountains during the summer.

Only issue was my lead head was a bit rusty for queen creek after being spoiled on the granite of Mt Lemmon. I have climbed and led Stuart Little a number of times and Sunday it seemed like a new planet made of graphite. I made the lead but it was pretty ugly and Kelly deserves double time pay for the length of time it took. Setup the neighbor climb Dr Giggles for top rope and we worked out some of the kinks.

I am not sure why No Breeze and cool breeze are part of Throne since they are physically part of pancake house, but there they are on the menu.

Cool breeze is a short and fun morale builder that has some awsome exposure. I like it cause it is an easy climb but requires some thought. The first move is stepping onto a narrow ledge below which is what seems like 200 feet of air to the creek. After that it just goes up at a nise angle with lots of features to grab. Cleverly the features lead you to the left and the bolt line is on the right so I always end up traversing back which makes me look down and (see previous description of down).

No breeze was the last climb of the day and it was a mind game for me. It is right next to cool breeze and similar rock but half way up the wall goes almost vertical. One thing I enjoy is looking for different routes than just blindly following the bolt line. It frequently works as long as I dont get too much of a pendulum fall possible. For this climb, I tried to go around left which cliffed out even though I was already on a cliff. So I went right and stemmed accross to cool breeze and inched upwards. As I got even with the next bolt, I looked for a traverse back which proved undoable by me. Haz crossed my mind as I was imagining the obit which would say something like "he tried a traveerse too far and he knew better". So back down (poor Kelly could have read a novel by now) and sucking up for the direct approach. I tried a few timid moves and then said screw it and just stepped up grabbing for a couple hand holds. They were not very positive and so down I went in my first fall in months. (Nice catch Kelly - thankyou) After collecting my limited wits and inventorying body parts, I tried again and was able to hold on long enough to clip the draw and then hang enough to clip the rope. After this the rest of the climb was easy and the view from the top amazing. But I was happiest at having stuck it out and willed myself through moves that were very heady for me. I think the adrenelin finally stopped flowing 12 hours later.

Great finish to the climbing and mmy usual bush whack back out of the canyon. Today was hard mental work but the result very satisfying.

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Oct 14 2012

Guides 10
Routes 673
Photos 7,281
Triplogs 4,660

67 female

Joined Nov 17 2008
phoenix, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Oct 14 2012
		trekkin_gecko • Triplogs 4,660

Climbing	1.00 Miles	300 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles
	300 ft AEG

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johnr1


Stuart Little	5.6	Sport	1 Pitch	40 ft

Dr. Giggles	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	50 ft

Hidden Treasure	5.7	Sport	1 Pitch	40 ft

cool enough to climb in queen creek canyon today
nice to have a shorter drive
upper devils was one of the first places john and i climbed together, so it was interesting to make a return trip several months later
however, on our first climb (stuart little), it seemed like i had forgotten how to lead
the rock here is a little different than say, mt. lemmon, and pockets and edges are there but smaller
made it, but felt awkward, so we did the one next door (dr. giggles) on toprope
had a better feel for the rock by our third (hidden treasure) and led again
did this one again on toprope to get the roof pull more smoothly, as i misplaced my cojones on lead and first tried to go around
good climbing here, just an adjusment to old school ratings and different quality rock

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hazhole

Dec 26 2011

oceanwithin

Photos 377
Triplogs 579

female

Joined Jun 19 2009
AZ

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Dec 26 2011
		oceanwithin • Triplogs 579

Climbing	0.50 Miles

Climbing	0.50 Miles

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Dr. Giggles	5.7	Toprope

The Jester	5.7	Sport

Working on getting past the "I can't do this get me DOWN" mentality

Love this area!

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Oct 09 2011

Guides 10
Routes 673
Photos 7,281
Triplogs 4,660

67 female

Joined Nov 17 2008
phoenix, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Oct 09 2011
		trekkin_gecko • Triplogs 4,660

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Climbing

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johnr1


Stuart Little	5.6	Sport	1 Pitch	40 ft

Dr. Giggles	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	50 ft

Hidden Treasure	5.7	Sport	1 Pitch	40 ft

another excellent climbing adventure with john
this area was new to me and i loved the climbing
it's also a lot closer to phoenix
first lead was stuart little and it took me awhile to get used to leading on rock again
we led this one and then topped rope it for practice, same with dr. giggles
hidden treasure was a nice climb, too
different rock than jack's, but as the day went on i felt comfortable on it
just need more experience and there's plenty of routes here to work on
thanks for a great day of climbing, john, followed by a trip to los hermanos for some delicious mexican food!

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hazhole

Apr 02 2011

Guides 4
Routes 17
Photos 8
Triplogs 340

78 male

Joined Dec 22 2007
tempe, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Apr 02 2011
		johnr1 • Triplogs 340

Climbing	1.00 Miles	800 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles	6 Hrs	0.17 mph
	800 ft AEG

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	Cool Breeze	5.4	Sport

•	Hidden Treasure	5.7	Sport	1 Pitch	30 ft
	hardest lead so far

••••	Lumberjack	5.8	Toprope	1 Pitch	70 ft
	Ginger variation

Five of us from Phoenix Rockclimbing Meetup braved the heat and went to upper devils for a great day of climbing. Through clever planning and pure dumb luck we staked out the Pancakehouse and held it all day in the face of a mob of people from AMC.

The pancakehouse is a pile of big boulders with routes running from inside to out. On a hot day, there is shade (at least for the belayer) and generally a cool breeze. For pictures, Hikergirl81 posed some in 2010.

The pancakehouse is up near the top of the canyon and the view into the canyon is awesome, esp when you are near the top of a route. You get a nice feeling of exposure on some of the routes.

For the record, I got two leads and 4 top ropes in.

finished the day at Hermanos in Superior where we ran into the AMC folks again. Sad that the Negra Modelo seems to not find its way to Superior but after a day of climbing even Bud Light would taste great.

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1 archive

Jan 15 2011

Guides 4
Routes 17
Photos 8
Triplogs 340

78 male

Joined Dec 22 2007
tempe, az

Globe, AZ

Climbing		Jan 15 2011
		johnr1 • Triplogs 340

Climbing	1.00 Miles	500 AEG

Climbing	1.00 Miles	6 Hrs	0.17 mph
	500 ft AEG

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••	Stuart Little	Toprope	5.6	Sport	1 Pitch	30 ft
	great warmup

•	Dr. Giggles	Toprope	5.7	Toprope	1 Pitch	35 ft

•	Hidden Treasure	Toprope	5.7	Sport	1 Pitch	30 ft

••••	Lumberjack	Toprope	5.8	Toprope	1 Pitch	70 ft
	the start seems stiff for a 5.8 and there are two alternate starts including the Gigner route up the tree or the crack route

About 30 folks with or associatd with Phoenix rock climbing meetup took over upper devils for the day and had a great time. Though cool and breezy in the morning, the day turned perfect in the afternoon with clear skys and about 60 degrees. We had couples, kids and old guys all mixed in together. With a number of good leaders and plenty of ropes the moderates stayed in use all day long.

The view of the canyon from these walls is excellent and the stream bed had flowing water in it. of course it is a long hike down to get to it or a good zoom lense to record the fact. The afternoon sun lit up the east side including a balenced bolder that seemed to be launching the moon from its top.

For some reason I ended up belaying a lot more than climbing which was okay as a lot of new folks were enjoying thier first visist to upper devils. This could easily become my favorite local crag.

Best news is that dos hermanos in Superior once again has negra modello after a month long drought.

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Oct 30 2010

suzaz

Guides 1
Routes 2
Photos 3,905
Triplogs 154

female

Joined Nov 23 2003
Gold Canyon, AZ