|
| | | Off the Beaten Path Loop in GTNP, WY | | | |
|
|
Off the Beaten Path Loop in GTNP, WY
| | |
| |
|
| Backpack | 36.59 Miles |
8,913 AEG |
| | Backpack | 36.59 Miles | 4 Days | | |
| 8,913 ft AEG | | | | |
|
|
| |
| Partners |
|
[ show ]
| partners | | Two years ago Joel and I did a backpack in the Wind River Range in Wyoming and visited Teton National Park briefly which caused us to have yearnings to go back. The Tetons are an impressive range that shoot straight up out of the high desert plains. They drew the interest of Ansel Adams and it resulted in the well known picture titled 'The Tetons and the Snake River.' A print has hung in our home for several years so it's a familiar site. Having grown-up in Wyoming, it's like the Tetons have been calling me home.
In early January, I started to dig around the internet to find a 4-day loop to do during peak wildflower season in the high country. In order to get reservations in advance I had to submit my application on January 8th.
During my research, I ran into a Backpacker magazine article regarding an itinerary that fit my requirements. The article says, "Consider this loop a lesson in investments. While hikers focused on short-term gains jostle for permits to the more accessible (and, yes, gorgeous) loop of Cascade and Paintbrush Canyons, venture a little more sweat equity and embark from Death Canyon trailhead instead. The payoffs are astounding: You’ll score solitude and million-dollar views of the Teton spires—and you won’t have to motor from camping zone to camping zone to nab the best sites. The route links Open Canyon, Mt. Hunt Divide, Granite Canyon, Alaska Basin, and Static Peak Divide to delve deep into the big, open country of the wildlife-packed southern Tetons, a less-visited area of rugged canyons, wildflower-strewn plateaus, endless mountain vistas—and empty campsites." Sold! I then started looking at logs with amazing flower photos to find dates that would deliver amazing flower displays in the alpine setting. I jumped on the reservation system the minute it opened and I scored my reservation.
The Tetons do have Grizzly and Black Bears. Therefore, in order to prep for this trip we had to all obtain bear canisters. We learned that the Park always you to check out bear cans so a couple of the members of our party took advantage of the offer. We also had to get some bear spray at a cost of $50 per unit. We didn't all carry bear spray but we had plenty.
Day 1:
Right out of the cars it lightly rained on us for most of the morning. We started at the Death Canyon TH and got views of Phelps Lake. Above Phelps Lake, we hiked over to and then up Open Canyon. We were in forest for most of the morning but then we started to get glimpses of the high country and the rain stopped for a while. We continued over the Hunt Divide where a Marmot was steadily nibbling to gain weight to survive 8 months of hibernation. Then we went down through hillsides of blankets of flowers and rocks. The small pikas were gathering their haystacks of flowers so they could munch all winter while they hang out in their tunnels under the snow. We finally made it into the Mt Hunt Camping Zone. We knew there was at least two creeks still running in the area so once we saw one we found a spot well off the trail with a view to pitch our tents. We went ahead and drank the water from the creek without treating it. There wasn't any trails in the country above so it should be pretty safe. As we went about our business I remember being nervous about Grizzles. The task of digging a cat hole was daunting and all the normal forest noises seemed to make me weary. We practiced appropriate precautions by eating away from our tents, caching our bear canisters so that they couldn't be rolled off a cliff.
Day 2:
It rained several times overnight but it stopped for us to eat breakfast and pack up for the day. We continued until we met Granite Canyon. The trail was extremely muddy and slippery in spots. We continued along the trail to meet up with the Crest trail near Marion Lake. The flowers in the area were fantastic! More flowers than one would expect. I saw elephantheads, lupines, geraniums, paintbrush, death camas, gentians, cinquefoil, and many pretty yellow flowers. This is what I wanted to see! I was extremely happy! We left the concentrated flowers and then the rain started again so we zipped up. We were joined by those hiking the Teton Crest Trail. I was sad that we were leaving our solitude behind but I knew we'd find it again the next day. Our plan was to stay at a spot marked as 5 stars in the Death Canyon Shelf zone. A good campsite is a good trade for solitude. As we met people, I asked where they were heading for the day. I kept track of those who mentioned the Shelf as their stopping point. I then made sure that as we approached the Shelf to pass those people. As we entered the Shelf we found that some people had already set up camp. I was getting nervous. I wanted the 5 star spot! Finally we reached the waypoint and found a campsite close to the edge that was open! Yay, it was a 5 star camp! We had an awesome view down into the glacier carved upper Death Canyon! The Shelf was comprised of limestone. The water used drainages that suddenly dissolved into fissures allowing the water to go underground. As cavers we really wanted to explore those areas but the weather and the loose rocks caused us to abstain. We had a snack and then it started to rain. I couldn't get myself to go in the tent so I puttered around camp and made sure the water didn't flow under our tents. The rain let up a bit so I spent some time looking down into Death Canyon. Suddenly I realized I was seeing a moose! I was able to zoom in with my camera to observe him and his friend that joined him later in the evening. The skies opened up and we got views of the Cathedral group. The Grand was poking above with a shawl of clouds around it. The view erased the feelings that a day of clouds had given me. It was amazing! Joel and I were excited to see the Grand as later on our trip we would climb the Grand with Exum Guides.
Day 3:
It rained a bunch through the night. But as it came time for us to get up the rain stopped. We took advantage of the rain break to eat and pack. Once we got on the trail we walked in the clouds for a bit. But then suddenly we had some sun! It was enough to revive us for the day's hike. We left Death Canyon Shelf behind and climbed over Mount Meek Pass. On Meek Pass several Marmots were hanging out. We were able to watch to young marmots play king of the rock. As we went down the Sheep Steps it started to pour. I was thankful for my new Patagonia rain jacket. We got down to Alaska Basin and the rain let up a bit but didn't truly stop. We turned onto the trail that would take us away from the Crest with all it's people. We wandered along side the Basin Lakes. We wanted to stop as close to the next junction as possible, yet we didn't want to get to high due to possible thunderstorms. Especially since we'd be approaching Static Divide and Peak, called such because of lightning strikes. Suddenly, the sun came out. We took that as a sign that we should set up camp. We found a good spot and took advantage of the sudden beautiful weather. We were able to get a snack and tea before the rains chased us into our tents. I changed into dry clothes, then played about an hour of solitaire, followed by another hour of practicing knots. Boredom was setting in! Finally, the rain let up and we tumbled out of our tents to make dinner. Typical of the last night of a backpack, there was a bit of sharing of extra foods.
Day 4: We awoke to clear skies! We were all in shock. We had no idea how to act with sun and blue skies! It was awesome! We hiked up to the Static Divide crossing a few snow fields. We stepped of the trail and bagged Static Peak. Static Peak is a walk up peak and is a great was to get an excellent view of high peaks and alpine features in the area. We saw the Grand Teton to the north, Buck Mountain to the west, and Timberline Lake directly below on the north side. Timberline Lake was an amazing blue and it was still partially frozen.
After the peak, we started to encounter a few hikers who were also heading up Static. We started our descent down many, many switchbacks into Death Canyon. We finally reached the bottom and Joel spotted a couple of moose laying in the grass under some trees. Then we found ourselves at a cabin about 4 miles from our trailhead. The dayhiking tourists started to appear. Shortly after the cabin the canyon plummeted down and the water rushed over in many small waterfalls. No wonder the tourists were there! The downhill started to get old but we pressed on to the cars. The day had warmed up and we missed our clouds and rain that had kept us cool. The final 4 miles went reasonably quick and we got to change out of our smelly clothes at Death Canyon trailhead. After such an awesome trip we had to celebrate! We headed to Dornan's in Moose for some pizza and beers! |
| _____________________
| | |
|
|
|
Route Editor
Route Scout
