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Backpack | 35.00 Miles |
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| Backpack | 35.00 Miles | 5 Days | | |
| | 50 LBS Pack | | |
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Partners |
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none
[ show ]
| no partners | | We entered the Canyon on 5/25 via Point Huitzil and exited via Royal Arch Route and South Bass on 5/29. There are road routes to get to South Bass TH that are perfectly legit that stay off tribal and private land. I have the track we followed to get to South Bass TH and linked it to this triplog. It was circuitous and added an additional 90 minutes of drive time. We ran into two other groups that said there is a road that skirts the Havasupai fence line at the locked gate that stays off private and tribal land and was a quicker route to connect with pasture wash road. Both routes require high clearance 4x4. This is where I get annoyed with the park service as the backcountry rangers were adamant there is no road access to get to South Bass TH and we would need to park at the gate and hike an extra 7 miles!!! But I digress.
This was the most focused I have ever been on a backpack. I lost track of the numerous points along this trip where not being sure footed or sure handed for the scrambles risked death or serious injury. I was out of my comfort zone for a good amount of time on this trip, but had two solid people with me that helped calm my nerves.
We saved time coming down Point Huitzil, but I would never recommend that route for anyone with a fear of heights. There is a lot of exposure on this route...but then again that is pretty much the norm for Royal Arch route as well. A lot of intermittent parts of this route that leave little room for error. The route posted by Bifrost was a huge help and spot on.
There was water just below where Point Huitzil meets Royal Arch route in the tinaja's which is pretty amazing considering the dry winter and lack of measurable precipitation the last few months so I would feel pretty confident there is water here year round other then maybe end of June before the monsoons hit. Might dry up...but IDK the holes were pretty deep and seemed like they would last. Trying to figure out how to add that location to the water report for this hike. The frogs loved them!!! And some of the nastiest water I've ever drank. Tasted like dirty aquarium water. But it's the best you're gonna get this time of year so when in Rome. I hiked in enough water (3 liters plus two 12 ounce Gatorade bottles and my emergency 10 ounce water pouch I drank) to make it to the spring at Royal Arch...well almost...as we ran out maybe a quarter mile before we got to the spring. So my recommendation is to bring four liters and five if coming in South Bass this time of year to avoid the frog water. Or just plan on drinking frog water.
From the river I hiked up 4.5 liters. I used that as my bladder water which got me within a few hundred yards of the South Bass TH on the hike out before I ran out. The frog water was our overnight camp for the hike out and I cooked and dropped orange flavored electrolyte tablets into my nalogen bottle to make it more palatable in an effort to save as much of the river water as possible to drink while hiking.
Absolutely loved Royal Arch!!! Spent the second day and night there to relax and recover from the hike down and had the place all to ourselves enjoying the pools under the arch. I would stay there over Toltec beach this time of year since it's so hot at the river. It's a bummer no camping at Elves' Chasm, but would just as soon not have to drag my gear beyond Toltec beach as the route to Elves chasm has some exposure as well. Tried to get a private raft group to hitch us a ride to Elves, but no luck...but did score three beers. .
I don't climb much, but being on belay my partners were able to pull out the slack as I made my moves so I could rest and didn't have too much trouble climbing up the rappel. The trickiest part is the beginning and then as you climb the hand and footholds get better. The young kid (32) with us didn't even harness and just used the rope to climb up and down so it just depends on your comfort, skill level, and physical abilities. I'm a 50 year old man who hates heights with kids and a wife and can't make moves like I could 20 years ago so I'm all about being locked in.
We decided to go back up Royal Arch and avoid the death trap we felt the Tonto could give us with the heat and water reports stating no water until South Bass Beach. We started hiking as soon as there was enough light to see without headlamps day's 2-5 to avoid the heat. On our way out when we got to the redwall climb it was getting hot and knowing there was little shade at the water holes for our camp we bedded down for six hours under an alcove until the redwall had shade then made our way up and through the rabbit hole to get above the big dryfall.
All in all a stellar trip, but would be better I'm guessing to hit this one earlier in the spring or in the fall to avoid the heat and have better opportunities for some decent drinking water, but the water sure felt good to jump in!!!
Here's a link to a video of this madness. Enjoy the 20 seconds of frogs chirping in the darkness. [ youtube video ] |
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Amphitheater Tinaja's |
51-75% full |
51-75% full |
| | A good amount of water here despite the dry winter and lack of recent rainfall. The frogs loved it and it was nasty water, but it kept us alive and we filtered it with a steripen and a sawyer and no one got sick. |
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Royal Arch Creek |
Medium flow |
Medium flow |
| | There is always water at the spring at Royal Arch to Elve's Chasm. Tastes awesome!!! | | _____________________
Not all who wander are lost... |
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