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I'd been apprehensive about taking on this trail, even more so than Nankoweap. Due to the process of elimination, this was the last of the "recognized NPS trails" that I hadn't done in the Grand Canyon. I had to do it! Not too much info is available on this trail, but I did get some useful information from the Falcon Guide "Hiking Grand Canyon National Park," but still left me with many unanswered questions. My goal here is to hopefully clarify and present good and informative info on this trail for others to use.
The drive to the TH is a trip in itself. It takes a little more than an hour and around 20 miles of driving on dirt roads to get there from the Kaibab lodge. This trail is "out in the middle of nowhere" and would be a long walk if you had vehicle issues. We found the first 12 miles of the drive to be in good shape as you drive through the Kaibab NF. The road conditions change when you enter GCNP. The road wasn't in bad shape but is much narrower, wagon tracked, and a little rocky in spots. We had no problem in a 99 stock Jeep Cherokee with descent off-road tires. By the way, you would have no trouble finding a place to car camp during this drive. I liked a spot overlooking the GC that is about 1/10th of a mile from the TH. Since this spot is in the NP, you'll need an overnight permit to use it legally.
Upon arrival, you'll find a TH kiosk, which will be at the end of Swamp Point Ridge. You may be in awe of the view. Take a look over the edge and try to figure out how far the river is... you won't see it. It hit me then how long it will take to get to the river. Those thoughts quickly went away as I glanced over to the Powell Plateau and then further west to the Esplanade where I could pinpoint where the Bill Hall and Thunder River trails start! Back in the direction in which we will head is Muav Canyon. It is directly south and below you. If you look closely, you'll make out parts of the trail you'll be on in a few hours.
TH TO MUAV SADDLEThe North Bass trail starts right next to the NPS kiosk and descends about 800' in 1 mile to Muav Saddle. You'll encounter eight switchbacks, including a very short one located behind the kiosk. This whole area leading to the saddle has burned in the not so distant past and is now well into the regrowth stage. There is no shade to be had here, and I'd call the regrowth chaparral. The good news is we guessed the NPS had to rework the trail after the fire. The reason for our guess was the trail is wide, rocky, and had no growth on the trail. As you get close to Muav Saddle, you may see the roof of Muav Cabin that is located in a nice stand of unburnt forest.
At the saddle, you'll reach a sort of a 4-way intersection. Here you'll have to take a left to continue descending on North Bass. However, to get to the cabin, you'll need to take a right just before the previously mentioned left and enter the big pines. I think if you continue straight at this junction that this will lead you up the trail to the top of the Powell Plateau and maybe even to an old route that drops you into Muav Canyon. The cabin is in great shape and clean, and it would be a good place to spend a night. If you do stay, remember, no fires, you are in the NP.
MUAV SADDLE TO THE TOP OF REDWALL DECENTFrom the saddle it'll be a short 2-5 minute hike to Queen Anne spring. On our trip (10/2012), the spring was flowing at about 1/2 GPM, and by the looks of all the lush vegetation around it, I'd say it's perennial. There are two faint trails by the spring, one before and one after. We didn't check out the one before it, but we guessed that it leads to where the water emerges from the cliff face. The one after leads to the remnants of a stone cabin. Not much remains except a wall. This might have been either a Bass cabin or the lone prospectors named White. The cabin remains are visible on your return trip, so don't worry if you missed them.
After departing the spring and cabin ruin area, you'll be on a section of trail that you could see from the TH, and it is also recovering from a fire. It'll start as a long descending traverse before hitting a few switchbacks, leading to a ridge that separates two drainages. Before arriving at this ridge, you'll have to cross water that feeds from Queen Anne spring. It was flowing on our trip and is tucked away in some dense but cool vegetation. I'm not sure if this is perennial, so I wouldn't count on it. Once at the ridge, you'll start a steep and rocky descent that offers little shade, but once you finish this plunge, you'll get to one of the most enjoyable parts of this trip. I'm going to say that it's between 1-1.5 miles from Muav saddle to this point.
After dropping off the ridge, you'll be in the dry western arm that the ridge divided. Even though it's cairned, take a good look, so you remember where you'll have to exit on your way back out. Hike down this drainage for a few minutes to where it ties into the wet eastern arm. For the next mile or so, you'll have to fight through some pleasant but lush vegetation as you try to keep your feet dry. There will be numerous creek crossings to deal with, the creek wasn't deep or wide on our trip, but I bet it can be. The stream will go underground and stay underground but will surface again later below the Redwall.
Somewhere in the wet section in the paragraph mentioned above, we found a small campsite that could handle one tent. Except for the cabin area at Muav Saddle, this is the only spot to camp to this point. The upcoming Redwall traverse will offer 4 or 5 good places to camp, but I don't think any will handle a large group. The Redwall section is dry, so you'll want to fill up on water before the creek goes underground. This is important if you plan on camping on top of the Redwall either on your first or last night of your trip. You won't have to go to crazy loading up on water here if you plan to drop off the Redwall on your first day. Water will be available below the Redwall in White Creek.
Now back to the trail; You'll continue hiking down the now dry creek bed and pass a lone but stately pine that seems way out of place here. This leg will cover around 1/2 mile until you reach a pour-off that can't be descended. At this point, look across the creek bed and look for cairns. They'll lead uphill and onto the top of the Redwall traverse. There will be lots of Pinyons and Junipers on top of the Redwall, and as mentioned earlier, good spots to camp. The traverse consists of 3 minor climbs and descents of feeder drainages (remember your in the GC). I'd say this section is about a mile long, and you'll gain 200'-300' in elevation from the pour off to the top of the Redwall descent.
REDWALL DESCENTThe start of the descent is deceptive. You'll descend into the 3rd small drainage and briefly climb. This will be followed by a traverse of maybe 100 yards or so. After this traverse, the plunge begins! This plunge isn't long (1/2-3/4 mile) but is very steep in spots and rocky. Three different spots come to mind as being very sketchy for footing. Hiking poles are strongly recommended. You'll exit into White Creek by having to duck under some overgrowth. At this point, it's recommended to study where you just exited, so you'll know where it is on your way out. It's cairned, but you might not be on the same track on your way out and miss it. On our way out, we missed the turn but knew within a minute that we missed it. *FYI Later in the trip, we climbed out on a cloudless day in the very early afternoon and were relieved to do more than 1/2 of the climb out in the shade!
WHITE CREEK BELOW THE REDWALLWhite Creek will be dry here, but you'll find running water in about 5 minutes. For the next mile, it's paradise, probably the loveliest leg of the trip. It's lush in here, has flowing water, and you're in a narrow canyon with Redwall all around you. They're a couple of campsites in this stretch, with 1 of them being prime. Again here, these spots will not work for a group. After a while, you'll come to some slick rock, which contains some deep tanks with resident frogs, so we named them "Frog Tanks." Water up here, it'll be the last until the still distant Shinumo creek and the last of the shade.
DRY WHITE CREEK ROUTEOnce leaving the mini oasis of "Frog Tanks," you'll quickly turn and climb out of the narrow canyon on the western side. Here again, it is an excellent place to stop and turn around to study where you just came from. It's probably unnecessary, but it may buy some peace of mind later on your way out. You'll stay away and above the now dry White Creek for the next 1/4 mile or so before you drop back into it. Once your back in the creek bed, you'll have a trail-less, shadeless, dry, boulder hop for the next couple of hours. You will climb into and out of the creek many times and drink a lot of water. I'm not sure of the distance, but I'll guess that it's 3 miles and maybe more when you come to a spot in the creek bed where you'll have to choose.
DECISION TIMEWe had discussed which way to go several times but couldn't decide until we got to this point. One choice is to continue down White Creek bed and negotiate pour-offs with down climbs, or the other choice; exit the creek bed in favor of hiking along the hot and shadeless Tonto platform and meandering around some small to medium-sized drainages. Believe it or not, we choose the Tonto platform since even though we were getting low on water. Our reasoning was the trail is on the west side of White Creek bed and would offer some shade from canyon walls as the day grew long in the tooth. Also, we guessed it would be quicker than tackling a bunch of downclimbs. This portion is typical Tonto, and we hiked around three small to medium-sized drainages followed by a moderately steep descent and the ascent of a 4th. 5-15 minutes after climbing back out of the 4th drainage, you'll finally come to an overlook that puts you right on top of Shinumo Creek, where you can see a nice place to camp more than 500' below. We were beat at this point and just wanted to get to camp.
ARRIVAL AT SHINUMO CREEKFrom the overlook of Shinumo Creek, you'll have a pretty decent descent to get to the creek. It's a good trail, but with our packs and the days' mileage, the creek's arrival would have been welcomed much earlier. I'd say it's only about 1/2 mile+ of hiking to the creek with a 500' drop. Once at the bottom, there is an excellent spot to camp for a group, the only group sized on this trip so far. We didn't like this spot since it wasn't directly next to the creek (50'-100' away), offered no shade, and with the temperature being very warm, we decided to look further down the creek. We couldn't find a good spot after crossing the creek, so we went back to the group spot and hiked down the creek. After 5-10 minutes, we found a suitable location for one tent next to and above the creek with a massive canyon wall that offered natural sunblock. We didn't have a thermometer, but it had to be 5-15 degrees cooler here.
I'll have to make this trip again and stay in White Creek and follow it to the confluence of Shinumo Creek to find out which is the better way to go. White Creek narrows down and deepens, which will offer shade and MAY have water in it. Another advantage would be since it's a drainage, it'll descend instead of the up/down/up/down/up/down... nature of the Tonto Platform. Except for a couple of dry but scenic camp spots on the Tonto shelf, I wouldn't even think about camping anywhere on the stretch from "Frog tanks." I didn't check it out, but I've heard that there is at least one good spot to camp at the junction of White and Shinumo creeks. I don't know how many this spot can handle. I'll add that on our way out from our campsite by Shinumo Creek, it took us only 1 hour and 15 minutes to get to the spot in White Creek, where we had to decide which way we'd go. We WERE hauling butt to beat the rising sun at the time, but we were rested and strong.
TRIP DOWN SHINUMO CREEK AND TO NORTH BASS BEACHThe following day was our "go to the river day". It was a nice stroll down Shinumo Creek with a small number of creek crossing to negotiate from our campsite. It appears that there is more than one path in places, so we tried to choose "the path of least resistance." Although it was early October, the creek had an excellent flow to it, so crossing was a little tricky. We mostly rock-hopped with the aid of our hiking poles. After about a mile, you'll encounter two mini-falls which make great body dunking holes where you can get wet and take a nice break. Just down creek of these two spots is a large area to camp. It could handle a good-sized group. This was the first good spot we came to camp after we left ours. I'm glad we found our little spot the day before. William Bass must have used this spot for something since we came upon the remnants of his camp very shortly afterward. You'll be on the east side of the creek in this area, and you'll come to an alcove with all sorts of remnants of his camp. I was expecting to see more, but it has been over 100 years since he lived here. Besides, the relics are rusting away in the alcove. The only other trace of habitation that we saw was an old foundation.
In about a 1/10th of a mile hike past the remains of Bass Camp, you'll see a cairn and trail heading up the eastern slope of Shinumo creek. Take it to get to the river. This trail requires you to climb 700' to a saddle that gives you your first look at the Colorado River. It's a little workout, but since we'd only hiked about 2 miles so far on this day, we had no problem. Unfortunately, you'll soon have to give that all back as you descend to the river. The trail on both sides of the saddle is rocky but easy to follow. The North Bass beach area is huge and can handle multiple large groups. We didn't explore the area for too long since it was warming up past my liking, and it wasn't even 10 AM. We turned around and hiked back up to the saddle. It figures, once we got there, lovely layers of clouds arrived, and they stayed with us for the rest of the day! Here we encountered a lone hiker wearing river shoes, we were surprised to see him (1st other person on this trip) as was he seeing us and we just said Hello and continued on our way.
We then dropped back down to Shinumo Creek to the cairn and decided since we had half-a-day left and with the unexpected cloud cover settling in on us, how far down the creek, we could safely go. We knew the lone hiker had to have come this way, so we were optimistic that we could make it to the river. The hike down the creek is lots of fun with lots of water crossings. This, to me, was the 2nd most excellent part of the trip. After a while, we came around a bend in the creek, and there was a small group of river runners hanging out, including the guy we saw earlier! This time we chatted with the group and then continued downstream. Of course, we assumed that they all hiked up the creek from the river, so we didn't ask them about the route. Should have! We continued and got so close to the river that we could smell it. We got stopped at a pour-off that may have been safe to jump but came to 2 conclusions; 1. We are very far from medical help if something went wrong? 2. What if we can't get back up?
We turned around and again ran into the river party and chatted. We found out that we were within 50 yards of the river but didn't take the bypass. We saw it earlier but thought it was a short-cut to North Bass beach. It's located on the eastern side of Shinumo creek, it's cairned, and it looks like a ramp is the best way I can describe it. If you make this trip and try to make it to the Colorado River, a useful tip is when you go down the creek if you come across a structure and transmitter (used to measure creek flow), you went too far and missed the bypass.
Check out the Official Route and Triplogs.
This is a difficult hike. It would be insane to attempt this entire hike without prior experience hiking.
This hike is listed as One-Way.
When hiking several trails on a single "hike", log it with a generic name that describes the hike. Then link the trails traveled, check out the example.