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Chilkoot Trail, AK

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Guide 1 Triplog  1 Topic
Rated  Favorite Wish List AK > South
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Difficulty 3.5 of 5
Distance One Way 33 miles
Trailhead Elevation 48 feet
Elevation Gain 3,715 feet
Avg Time One Way 5 Days
Kokopelli Seeds 45.38
Backpack Yes
varies or not certain dogs are allowed
editedit > ops > dogs to adjust
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Photos Viewed All Mine Following
10  2011-08-08 hikeaz
Author HAZ_Hikebot
author avatar Guides 16,882
Routes 16,052
Photos 24
Trips 1 ( 6 miles )
Age 22 Male Gender
Location TrailDEX, HAZ
Historical Weather
Trailhead Forecast
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Preferred   Jul, Aug, Jun, May → Early
Sun  5:27am - 6:25pm
Official Route
0 Alternative
Nearby Area Water
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Culture Nearby
footsteps of the stampeders
by HAZ_Hikebot

Overview: The Chilkoot Trail is one of two main routes to the Klondike that originate in this area. Long before the gold rush, the trail was established by Tlingit people as a trade route into the interior of Canada. Fish, seal oil and seaweed were traded with the First Nations peoples for moose and caribou hides, plant materials and other goods unavailable on the coast.

The most challenging way to follow in the footsteps of the stampeders and natives is by hiking the 33-mile-long Chilkoot Trail, accessible only on foot. It is a difficult hike and usually takes three to five days. The trail begins at the Taiya River bridge near the Dyea townsite and travels over the Chilkoot Pass to Lake Bennett.

Camping There are a total of nine designated and maintained campgrounds on the Chilkoot Trail:
  • Finnegan's Point Finnegan's Point is located right next to the Taiya River while the valley is still relatively flat. The mosquitoes are very bad at Finnegan's Point partly due to its location and the abundance of standing water. The campsite itself features a canvas warming and cooking shelter complete with mosquito screens, a bear pole and a bear-proof food storage locker for safekeeping of food overnight, an outhouse, and ample tent sites.
  • Canyon City Canyon City is the second-largest campground on the American side of the trail. It too is conveniently located right next to small tributary of the Taiya River. It features a spacious log cabin complete with a wood stove, numerous shelves full of artifacts, several bunks (although sleeping is not permitted inside park shelters), and several shelves for cooking. It also has a small porch ideal for hanging up gear to air out or dry and some wooden chairs to sit in. Canyon City features over 30 campsites and two outhouses as well as food lockers and bear poles.
  • Pleasant Camp Pleasant Camp is the smallest of the campgrounds on the American side of the trail. It is located next to a sandbar in the Taiya River and features a canvas warming and cooking shelter, a spattering of campsites, and a bear pole. Pleasant Camp usually serves as a back-up campground in case Sheep Camp is full. There is a sign near the cooking shelter notifying backpackers whether Sheep Camp is at capacity or can still take backpackers.
  • Sheep Camp Sheep Camp is the largest of the American campsites. It is located in between a crick of meltwater from the adjacent mountains and some branches of the Taiya River. Occasionally after disruptions upstream such as avalanches, rockslides, or exceptional rains, portions of Sheep Camp next to the Taiya become flooded. Sheep Camp has three separate canvas shelters, a small cache used by the trail crew, outhouses, and over 40 campsites. The only U.S. Ranger Station on the trail is located just a few hundred meters north of Sheep Camp and the ranger during the official season comes down to give a presentation on the history and current conditions of the pass.
  • Happy Camp Happy Camp is the only campground on the trail entirely out of the treeline although small shrubs are prevalent. A very small wooden warming cabin and a food closet as well as an outhouse (with refuse deposited into a container that is heli-lifted out as to protect the fragile alpine environment) are all located at this campsite. There are a decent amount of campsites but the number is limited due to the rather steady slope the campground is located on. However, in the spring, watching the melt-off streams pour into the small river in front of Happy Camp can be a spectacular sight.
  • Deep Lake Deep Lake is the only one of two campgrounds on the trail to be devoid of some kind of protective shelter and is one of the smallest on the trail. Deep Lake has an outside cooking area, bear proof lockers for food, and a small number of campsites. However, views from here are spectacular. It is situated between the end of Long Lake and the beginning of Deep Lake, both of which hold a most mysterious indigo hue.
  • Lake Lindeman This is the largest campground on the Canadian side, and possibly the entire trail. Featuring separate north and south campsites, a small cluster of buildings for the wardens and trail crew, a makeshift dock and boat for transportation of the wardens (unlike the Americans, the Canadian wardens cannot just hike out to Skagway), a canvas shelter containing a museum of photographs and small library on the outdoors and Klondike history, and a web of trails leading through the remains of the old town. The north and south campsites each feature a large wooden cabin that serves as a cooking and warming shelter, numerous bear poles, and several picnic tables. The campsites are located throughout the surrounding sparse pine forest and are never far from the lake.
  • Bare Loon Lake Bare Loon Lake is the other campground on the trail without a warming shelter, though it now sports a pavilion-style cooking shelter. Located on a small ridge above Lake Lindeman in spacious pine forest and overlooking the small Bare Loon Lake, the campground is one of the most beautiful on the trail. There is an outhouse, a helicopter pad, and bear poles. One can also swim in the lake. Unlike almost every other water source encountered on the trail thus far, Bare Loon Lake is not glacially-fed, and so, while it may be cold, it does not compare with the newly-melted water that feeds the Taiya River, Deep Lake, or Lake Lindeman.
  • Bennett Bennett is the end of the trail and the first step back into civilization. There are several structures built and maintained by the White Pass and Yukon Route including a museum for tourists, a depot, and housing for employees. There is also a private First Nations residence which is off limits and private property. While Bennett doesn't have a shelter specific for cooking, there is shelter to be found easily among the structures scattered throughout Bennett. The campground is relatively small and has bear poles, picnic tables, and an outhouse. Also at Bennett is the still-standing St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church. It is a remnant from the gold rush and has since been renovated.

Warning: While in the summer there are full-time rangers and wardens on both the U.S. and Canadian sides, the Chilkoot Trail is still by no means without its risks.

Bears Bears are the primary concern in the park. It is very common for hikers to encounter them. Firearms are not permitted. Almost all parties take bear spray and/or bear bangers as repellents (bear bells are now considered an attractant), but more importantly both sides of the park mandate smart bear practices. It is required to safely stow your food in a bear-safe location whether that be provided lockers or bear poles as to prevents bears from associating humans with food and thus creating "problem bears." There are constant notices and reminders of how to react if one sees or encounters a bear. Because of the well-coordinated bear education campaign by park officials, bears remain just a potential for problems and have yet to actually become a problem.

Weather and terrain Weather and terrain also pose challenges to hikers. While there are very few risks in the forest regions of the trail, once hikers start hiking in the alpine problems become prevalent. Snow bridges in the Taiya River valley before the pass don't really have potential to create serious injuries or situations but are a hazard hikers should look out for to prevent unnecessary bruises and wet gear. A larger problem is lack of preparation, poor weather, or a combination of both of the above. These factors often result in groups not making the jump from Sheep Camp to Happy Camp. Often the ranger from Sheep Camp sweeps late in the day up to the pass to check for straggling groups and suggests that those who don't look like they'll be able to make it to Happy Camp stay in the warming shelter at the summit for the night instead of risking it on the barren alpine between the summit and Happy Camp.

Another danger in the winter or spring is that of avalanches. While those hikers in the mainstream season don't need worry about this, early-season hikers are often briefed of potential chutes and suggestions of navigating them.

Best season
Parks Canada and United States National Parks Service staff patrol the trail from early June, when the route over Chilkoot Pass is first marked, until early September. USNPS Rangers are stationed at Sheep Camp and Parks Canada Wardens are stationed at Lindeman City and Chilkoot Pass.

Early June: Winter like conditions persist. Travel may be very difficult. Avalanche hazard. During this time you will want to cross Chilkoot Pass early in the day to reduce your exposure in avalanche terrain. There will be few other hikers on the trail. Check with Trail Center for seasonal conditions.

Mid-June - early July: Early season backpacking, significant amounts of snow, variable travel conditions. Avalanche hazard persists until mid-July. During this time you will want to cross Chilkoot Pass early in the day to reduce your exposure in avalanche terrain.

Mid-July - mid-August: Peak Season. Trail is generally snow free though some snow patches persist. Travel conditions are highly variable and dependant on weather. Peak visitor use occurs during this period.

Mid-August - late September: Fall Backpacking. Trail is generally snow free though some snow patches still persist. Weather is wetter; daylight hours are shorter, nights are colder (often below freezing). The route over Chilkoot Pass is not marked after patrol staff leave the trail in early September.

Weather Mountain weather is known unpredictable. It can quickly change from one location to another. Regardless of the season, hikers can expect wet, cold, windy and/or whiteout conditions; severe rain or snow storms are possible even in the middle of summer. Avalanche hazard persists until mid-July . If hiking in the early season you should be properly equipped with shovels, avalanche transceivers and probes, so as to be able to find and rescue a member(s) of your party if they get caught in an avalanche.

Most weather systems blow in from the coast. As moist ocean air rises to go over Chilkoot Pass, it cools and loses its ability to hold moisture, producing precipitation. As a result the US side of the trail tends to be rainy and/or overcast. The section of the trail between Sheep Camp and Deep Lake is above tree line and frequently experiences severe weather conditions - driving rain, sleet, hail or snow, low temperatures, high winds and fog - as weather systems move through the area. As cool air descends from the alpine tundra to the shores of Lindeman Lake, it becomes warmer and its ability to hold moisture increases, creating a "rain shadow". Weather in the low lying areas at the north end of the trail tends to be drier, a pleasant contrast to conditions which prevail on the rest of the trail.

Difficulty level The Chilkoot Trail is isolated, strenuous, physically challenging and potentially hazardous.

The Chilkoot Trail is located in an area home to both black and grizzly bears. Remember that national parks are not a zoo and the animals are not tame. Do not approach any wildlife. View them from the safety of your vehicle. If an animal reacts to your presence, you are too close. Keep your distance and stay safe and you will see more of an animal's natural behavior and activity.

Careless food storage or feeding spells death for bears. Allowing a bear to obtain human food, even once, often results in aggressive behavior. The bear is then a threat to human safety and must be removed or killed. Do not allow bears or other wildlife to obtain human food. Be alert for tracks, do not approach carcasses, and avoid surprising bears in any location or situation.

During the day when on the trail, always keep your backpacks within arms reach. Once at campgrounds, securely stow all food and other attractants. Bear poles or food-storage caches are provided at each campground. You need to bring your own rope (9 m / 30') for use with bear poles. Cook and eat only at designated eating areas (shelters or picnic tables) not at tentsites.

If precautions fail and you are charged, bear pepper spray is a good last defense. (Personal self-defense pepper spray is not effective.) Become familiar with bear pepper spray, read instructions, know its limitations. It must be instantly available, not in your pack. Remember, carrying this spray is not a substitute for vigilance and good safety precautions.

If you are injured by a bear (regardless of how minor), or if you observe a bear or bear tracks, report it to a park ranger as soon as possible. Someone's safety may depend on it.

Check out the Official Route and Triplog.

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2018-07-14 HAZ_Hikebot

    One-Way Notice
    This hike is listed as One-Way.

    When hiking several trails on a single "hike", log it with a generic name that describes the hike. Then link the trails traveled, check out the example.
    WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

    Most recent Triplog Review
    Chilkoot Trail
    rated 5rated 5rated 5rated 5rated 5
    A spectacular trip that exceeded my (high) expectations.
    The hikebot has done a pretty good job of describing the trail itself, so I will skip that part -
    We stayed at Canyon City, Sheep Camp, Happy Camp and Lindeman. There is a 'library tent' at Lindeman, replete with period photos, stories, newspaper clippings, etc., which I especially enjoyed. Also very enjoyable was the comradarie of the travellers at the warming cabins each afternoon/evening - it was a blast sharing stories with hikers from around the world. Coming up from 115+ in Phoenix, it seemed a bit chilly sometimes (to me) but those western Canadians were in shorts and a T-shirt - a hardy bunch for sure and very fun-loving to boot.
    Although at the campsite area there was a 'crowd' of sorts, on the trail I barely saw anyone (maybe I was OFF the trail?) - so it seemed very peaceful and serene.
    One thing that the hikebot and even most photos cannot capture is the immensity of the area. We walked past glaciers that had to be 300 acres - huge snow-covered mountains as far as you could see surrounded us.
    Another item that really hit home was how hardy the Gold-Rushers were - these folks were BAD-A$$! Having to carry a literal TON of gear up this impossible pass, 50# at a time, making boats, sleds and such from scratch, trying every-which-way to forge a way up to Dawson. These folks did more in a day than most of us do in a YEAR - oh, and sometimes they did it when it was 40 below 0.

    Of the 4000+ period photos I saw, many of them posed, I never saw one smile on the face of these guys and gals - they were just trying to survive and many did not. There is an abundance of artifacts that can be seen on or nearby the trail, so doing this hike in 4.5 days allowed a lot of time to see these items, even the ones 1/4 mile or so off the trail.

    Traveling light realy helped here, as the trail has a ton of elevation changes and the tread is much less than ideal, with jagged rocks (and roots when below treeline).

    Gear-wise.... it is at least likely to rain every day (more like a heavy drizzle in Alaskan terminology), so having some dry, warm clothes for camp is essential - you may even consider drybagging your camp clothes & sleeping bag.
    Often a breeze accompanys the drizzle, but my umbrella still worked quite well - I was able to hike in a poly shirt while most were sweating away in their breathable(not) rain ponchos/jackets. Another advantage to the umbrella is that you can look around when using it vs. with a rain jacket hood having your head down to shield the rain. I could have sold my umbrella many times over.
    The warming cabins are nice but get cramped, so I brought my custom Te-Wa sil-nylon tarp and it served us quite well, providing a nice communal cooking/card-playing/hooch-drinking area out of the rain.

    Anyway - if you can't tell, I really enjoyed the trip - including the wonderful, scenic train ride back from Bennett to Skagway after the hike.
    This backpack & trainride, coupled with the pre-hike excursions that included the 3-day/2-night Prince William Sound fishing we did (yes, many halibut were slayed along with yellow-eye and of course a few salmon), a hike up to Flattop in Anchorage, a road-trip from Anchorage down to Homer, a gnarly 4x4 drive to an off-the-grid Russian boat-building village, traveling by large catamaran from Juneau up to Skagway and then flying back to Juneau in a small 6-place Piper while overlooking mountains and glaciers on a bright and sunny day all helped make it an unforgetable trip - you should put it on your list.
    BTW - none of this was through an outfitter - it was all self planned and self-led.

    * Should anyone want the 'skinny' on the how-to's of the hike logistics, just ask.

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    Map Drive

    To hike
    The Chilkoot Trail can be accessed from the town of Skagway, Alaska. Skagway can be accessed by the road from Whitehorse, Yukon, via the South Klondike Highway. During hiking season in summer there is daily bus service between Whitehorse and Skagway, or rent a car in Whitehorse. There are both ferry and commuter air service to Skagway from Juneau, Alaska.

    Dyea Trailhead The Dyea trailhead, distant 16 km / 10 miles from Skagway. Access all year by dirt road. Overnight parking is available in Dyea at the National Parks Service campground located 1 km / A 1/2 mile from the trailhead. If you prefer you can also take the private shuttles that provides transport from Skagway to the trailhead at Dyea. Some operators provide returning service from the end of your hike from Log Cabin back to Skagway. These are reliably services, but the periodicity changes from one season to another, so you must contact operators and check before. Contact information for these services is available at the Trail Centre.

    Bennett Trailhead The campground at Bennett is very basic, there is no phone or other tourist services. All post-hike travel arrangements should be made before hand. Access to/from Bennett is possible by rail, by taking the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway. To check schedule and time information call toll free 1-800-343-7373 1-800-343-7373. Float plane charter service to/from Bennett is also available. For air charter information contact Alpine Aviation at (867) 668-7725 (867) 668-7725 . For those that are starting the hike out to Log Cabin on the South Klondike Highway, the Trail Centre can provide information on bus schedules and shuttle services.
    page created by joebartels on Jan 05 2011 10:21 am
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