Introductory level DSLRs

[hippiepunkpirate]

I'm thinking about getting into level DSLR, hopefully around Christmas. Because I have a BestBuy credit card that allows zero interest for the first few months, I'm kind of limited to what they have in stock. I'd prefer to not spend more than $600, but would be willing to spend up to $800 for a worthwhile camera. So basically, at this point I've narrowed it down to the Canon Rebel XS and the Nikon D3000. Both cameras have great reviews on the BestBuy website, and elsewhere it seems. Any thoughts, opinions, other ideas (Joel, Nick, Joe, et. al)?

[hippiepunkpirate]

here's how I roll
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2478/409 ... cd5a68.jpg

hahaha

"This photo is currently unavailable"

[sundevilstormin]

oops - try this one
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sundevilst ... 099497746/

[joebartels]

I had a couple quick access setups in this thread
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=3111
quick enough to get shots like these
http://hikearizona.com/phoZOOM.php?ZIP=56891
http://hikearizona.com/x.php?I=19&u=2

[hippiepunkpirate]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sundevilst ... 099497746/

That's hardcore!

I had a couple quick access setups in this thread
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=3111

I like the simplicity of that setup.

[hippiepunkpirate]

So the good news is I'm moving back out of my parents house next week. The bad news is with rent, deposits, all my other bills plus Christmas and New Years approaching, I'm going to have to put off getting a DSLR . Maybe for my birthday in February

[Al_HikesAZ]

Dang Norm - when you carry all that photo gear with your halogen lighting system and generator it strikes me that you don't have much room left to carry Tequila. We have to work on your priorities. There's hiking for hiking's sake, hiking for photographys sake and then there's the most important - hiking for Tequila's sake (or Sake's sake if you're so inclined) or Boddington's sake for some folks I know.

HPP - well worth the transition. I would gladly buy my kids a dSLR if they moved out. ;)

[sundevilstormin]

Tequila, no.

Yerba mate Taragui sin palo, Si!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sundevilst ... 927140165/
(just add water)

[gringoantonio]

to Gringoantonio - BIG thanks for the Ron Bigelow articles - the section on sharpening masks was exactly what I have been looking for... a wealth of info in there :bigth:

De nada, amigo.

I've created some sharpening actions based on his methods. I use them on every image I print. I've done side by side comparisons (on screen and in print from 100% to 400% blowup) with the RB-based sharpening actions I created and others that are created and sold by PS professionals. None of those actions compare to the RB based sharpening actions. All his tutorials, though they can be overwhelming for any PS novice, are probably the most useful I've ever found online. Especially for anyone interested in landscape photography.

[gringoantonio]

Here's one of the clearest and simplest explanations of the advantages of RAW that I've come across:

http://www.prophotolife.com/2008/04/29/ ... eal-story/

[hippiepunkpirate]

Guess who got a new toy today...

http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/contr ... elid=18385

Guys- I need somebody to explain metering to me.

[BobP]

Guess who got a new toy today...

Did you get the Best Buy deal?...I looked at that one.

[hippiepunkpirate]

Did you get the Best Buy deal?...I looked at that one.

I did. I was at a Best Buy in Peoria at 5 AM. I had to work in Flag at 11AM

[tibber]

Congrats! I can't wait to see the first photos.

[hippiepunkpirate]

Congrats! I can't wait to see the first photos.

Thanks! We've got a storm coming in this weekend, so it should provide a spectacular backdrop, but I'm nervous about getting my new baby wet.

[JoelHazelton]

Guys- I need somebody to explain metering to me.

The camera detects ambient light, and based on that determines how much light needs to be let in to ensure proper exposure. When set on auto, the camera uses the metering to automatically set the exposure. On manual mode, the camera tells you whether or not the exposure you choose will be too dark or too light. This will be shown as a series of numbers and lines at the bottom of the viewfinder/lcd screen. The order of numbers, from left to right, will be: shutter speed, f-stop, meter reading, ISO. There's actually a number to the right of ISO (it's 17 on my camera right now) and I don't know what that number means.

To trigger the meter: Press the shutter down about halfway, basically until you start to feel some resistance. The meter will then appear at the bottom of the screen. It'll disappear in a few seconds, but if you apply some pressure to the shutter again it'll reappear.

My camera right now:

2" 16 -2||1||V||1||2 iso 100 17
So right now it's set at 2 second shutter speed, f16, iso 100. Those are all settings that I chose.


To use the meter: The actual meter will read something like: -2||1||V||1||2 There will be a line underneath the meter reading, most likely bouncing around to different spots depending on where you point the camera. If it's underneath the "V", that means the shot will be properly exposed. Anywhere to the left of the "V" is underexposed, anywhere to the right is overexposed. You then adjust the shutter speed and f-stop accordingly until your shot is exposed properly.

That's basic metering. Anything beyond that you'll learn by trial and error. What the camera considers properly exposed usually isn't what you want the shot to look like, depending on color, shadows, etc. If you meter for the shadowed areas of the scene, everything else will be bright and blown out. If you meter for the highlights, the shadows will be dark and blocked out.

It's really pretty simple once you start doing it. Especially since it's digital, you can just keep shooting until it looks good!

Quick rundown of f-stop and shutter speed: (some of which you probably already know)

Shutter speed: how long the shutter is open. If the shutter speed is 1/100, the shutter is open for 1/100th of a second, therefore allowing light to hit the sensor for 1/100th of a second.

F-stop: Number representing how wide open the aperture is, which is actually the opening in the lens that allows light in. The smaller the number, the wider the aperture. The wider the aperture, the more light can be let in at once. If you have a wider aperture letting in more light, you want a faster shutter speed to counter that.

Related to that... In looking at the metadata on photos posted here, I often times see shots taken at ridiculously high shutter speeds with wide open apertures (i.e. 1/1000, f2.8 ). That generally doesn't do much justice to the sharpness of the lens. The sweet spot for most lenses is usually between f8-f11 (for normal landscape images). If you can stop it down to around that f-stop without making the shutter speed TOO slow (unless you have a tripod), I highly recommend it. The image will turn out sharper (especially in the corners). Don't go slower than 1/60, handheld if you want a really sharp image. 1/100 if you're a shaky dude. With longer lenses the number goes up even more.

Times you want a really narrow aperture (f16, f22): When you have a wide scene with a really close foreground and a far background, and you want all in sharp focus. That requires knowing the hyperfocal distance and focusing accordingly, which is a whole other thing. Google it or PM me if you're ever interested

Times you want a really wide aperture (f2.8, f4): When you want to isolate a sharp subject against a blurry, out of focus background. You won't have too much success with that with a wide lens, but that's the basic idea.

Sorry for all the info, I could type about it forever. Have fun!

[Grasshopper]

In response to hippiepunkpirate:
Congratulations HPP on your new and exciting Canon investment! Also, good luck with metering
(Joel has published below such a wealth of knowledge to learn from). Right now with my G10 set in the "P" mode with "Auto" ISO set and -1/3 exposure on landscape day shots is about all I am able to comprehend. You have a lot to forward too!

[JimmyLyding]

If you're going to carry your camera around your neck because you want to have it ready should encounter Mr. Sasquatch I highly recommend getting a stretchy neoprene strap. It really does make the camera feel lighter, and it will accumulate sun screen lotion which is a gift that keeps on giving.
Also, you'll want to buy some sort of polarizer if only the cheap-o version. It's a lot easier to swallow replacing a $20 polarizer than your entire lens.

[sundevilstormin]

My camera right now:
2" 16 -2||1||V||1||2 iso 100 17
So right now it's set at 2 second shutter speed, f16, iso 100. Those are all settings that I chose.

the number on the right of the viewfinder indicates frames for Max Burst available in Continuous shooting mode. I interpret it as the buffer capacity. The number will depend on the card size/speed and image type selected

[JoelHazelton]

Ahhhh... Awesome! Thanks!

[Al_HikesAZ]

the number on the right of the viewfinder indicates frames for Max Burst available in Continuous shooting mode. I interpret it as the buffer capacity. The number will depend on the card size/speed and image type selected

Dang Sparky - you sure know your stuff about some stuff. You make it almost understandable