HikeArizona.COM

Hi all,

New member here. My wife and I have an upcoming 2-night Grand canyon trip in mid October. We are new to backpacking but have done quite a bit of hiking. We are interested in doing a quick 1-night test run to try out our gear and get a feel for the process before heading to GC.

We plan to leave from Gilbert and are thinking somewhere along the Rim would be good to see some foliage change in the coming weeks.

I have done a bit of research and am thinking of one of the following, but open to other suggestions.

My biggest concerns I'd like to hear opinions on are:
- We wont be able to arrive and begin hiking in until Saturday around 2PM. I worry in popular spots that it will be too crowded and we lose an opportunity for an ideal camping spot.
- We are likely looking to hike less than 5 miles from our parking area, as I want to make sure we can setup camp before it gets dark.
- I would prefer not having an area right along a trail where other hikers will walk through our camp. Prefer a place we can setup at least 50-100 feet from the trail.


Potential areas:
- Cabin Loop: Along Houston Brothers on the way to Aspen Springs
- Cabin Loop: Along Barbershop Trail, near what sounds like a meadow close to an area of Maple/Aspen trees?
- Upper Buck Spring Canyon: Grasshoppers pictures and trail description sound like a good opportunity to see foliage, but may be more of a walk instead of a hike?
- Horton Springs: Many areas along the creek but I worry it will be too dang busy

Any thoughts/recommendations?

Thank you!

ZonaNative22 wrote:Any thoughts/recommendations?

I recommend: [ photoset ]
(see my above pic captioned and geo coded picset and triplog from my 6/12/20 dayhike. This 6/12 trip is posted under HAZ Hike Guide [ Houston Brothers Trail - Aspen Spring Access ] )

This recommended 3 mile roundtrip backpack hike with a Saturday night camp at easy to access off-trail (off Houston Bros TR 171) at perennial and private on a Saturday, McFarland Spring area will be perfect to meet your needs. However, most likely minimal to no Autumn colors in this area.

Also, you will need to be able to locate the easy to miss, unmarked FR139G TH/Park at the intersection of closed to vehicle traffic FR9738N and know where to off-trail exit Houston Brothers Tr 171 to hike over to McFarland Spring Camp Area (I have my recommended for download and following- Gps Route attached to the above 6/12 triplog). Enjoy!

@Grasshopper
Thank you! I had definitely come across a few of your triplogs and trip summaries in this area, but I wasn't aware the McFarland Spring campsite was off the beaten path... now that I have seen more specifics on this, it appears this is just what I am looking for. It would be awesome for more foliage in the area, but beggars can't be choosers!

One question regarding driving from PHX. I need to approach from the 87 as Hwy 260 does not connect to this parking area via Rim Road 300, correct?

Thank you!!!

ZonaNative22 wrote:It would be awesome for more foliage in the area, but beggars can't be choosers! One question regarding driving from PHX. I need to approach from the 87 as Hwy 260 does not connect to this parking area via Rim Road 300, correct?

If you would like prime Autumn colors (Big Tooth Maple/Aspen) the last weekend of Sept-first week of October on a Saturday drive in, then you will need to put up with a lot more looky-loo's driving slow on The Rim Road (FR300) with a longer time and mileage drive. If that important, then I recommend you plan to backpack in and camp somewhere within [ Upper Buck Spring Canyon - Mogollon Rim ]

..and yes, if you decide to backpack hike/camp at McFarland Spring, I recommend you drive in from PHX via Hwy 87 North of Strawberry. AZ, then Hwy 87 up to the Mogollon Rim. I also recommend that on a Saturday during the ~Autumn season, that you avoid driving in/out via FR300 off Hwy 87 and instead:

DRIVE DIRECTIONS:
From the intersection of Hwy 87/FR300 (at Milepost 281.1) drive the additional 18-20 miles north on Hwy 87 (past the small community of Clints Well, then on and past Blue Ridge Reservoir, then a few more miles and a very short distance past The Mogollon Rim- Blue Ridge Ranger Station) Here, turn Right onto signed FR95. Drive FR95 for a number of miles and then downhill and cross over the bridge at East Clear Creek, then immediately turn Right, still on FR95, and continue for a few miles to the signed intersection of FR139. Turn Left onto FR139 and continue a few miles to the easy to miss, but signed FR139G (Here is the Gps Drive Route from Hwy 87/FR95 to FR139G--> [ gps route ] ). Turn Right on to FR139G for the short drive to the "unsigned" Park/TH Start at FR9738N.

Since you said you were training for the GC but everyone so far gave you ideas for "not climb or descend" routes. Let me please give you an idea for routes that will enhance your GC training and expectations. Climbing the rim from most of the trailheads I list will give you about 1/4 of the elevation gain & loss that you will get from the GC. These also have the benefit of being mostly on well marked trails.

Try out Babe Haught trail to Knoll lake from Hatchery Trailhead and back (this one will offer the best access to beautiful campsites and water) <- my #1 pick. Or try See Canyon to Rim Rd to Bear Canyon Lake and back if you enjoy crowds. Or Colonel Devin Trail from Washington Park TH to the top of the rim to some random campsite along the Fred Haught / AZT portion of of the Cabin Loop and then back (if you want a mix of both). Get water from Fred Haught spring for this one or if you want to go a little further there are some springs along that section of the AZT.

Great information from both of you, thank you.

@grasshopper Great point regarding "looky-loo's" along FR300; I did not think of that...

@wildwesthikes That's a good suggestion. I will look into the Babe Haught Tr option you mention. Not sure how much "GC training" we are looking for on this trip, as it's mainly just to try our gear out and not so much for hiking training. In any case, what do you estimate the crowds will be like on this trail? Any foliage present?

Thank you!

@ZonaNative22
Not crazy busy like some of the trails that start along Tonto creek. In my experience the trails going up the Rim are sparsely populated with hikers even on Saturdays. Most people going up the rim get an early start as well. I can make it to the top in less than 90 minutes if I 'm not taking breaks. I've been up on a Saturday afternoon a few times in Summer and early fall. I always come across one or two or three people at most.

Knoll Lake can be busy or it can be completely deserted. I've had both experiences. The rest of Babe Haught trail after it crosses Rim road from the top to the lake is easy to follow and there are a number of five star campsites at Knoll lake right where the trail ends and as you countour along the lake's shoreline - which are neither car nor ATV accessible. It's plenty far away from the campground that you won't have to contend those issues. You would only have fellow backpackers and maybe the odd day hiker or canoe enthusiast nearby.

To be perfectly honest I don't pay a ton of attention to foliage. I enjoy it as I hike but I don't really take note of what I've seen

Also regarding Horton Creek - I would not camp anywhere near Horton unless it was like a Tuesday or something. It's too dang busy for my taste. Although you can connect to the Highline Trail from the waterfall/spring area along Horton where most people stop and if you hike a couple miles along the Highline you won't see hardly a soul. There are some good campsites along Highline but you might not have the best water access except near Horton itself.

Thank you for all the info

The more I have read about this region from posted triplogs is that quite a few folks have seen black bears in the area. I’m guessing it’s recommended to use a bear canister as well as bring bear spray along for any backpacking trip along the rim?

I use a bear canister, or food hanging. The black bears tend to be timid and I've never needed bear spray. There is the off chance you could run into a bear people have been feeding which are the most dangerous black bears, so I wouldn't look down on someone who wanted to bring bear spray in case they ran into that situation. The common reaction is for a normal black bear to run away from you as soon as it detect you.

nonot wrote:The common reaction is for a normal black bear to run away from you as soon as it detect you.

@ZonaNative22
Consider yourself extremely lucky if you do view a bear within this Cabin Loop "hiking/camping area" of our Mogollon Rim.

No need to carry bear spray on the mogollon rim but I do frequently see others carrying it.
I hang an Ursack for bear/critter food safety at all times, except for places that need a canister. Never had an issue with animals at all except curious deer. Ironically the only places I have even seen bears out there is along the highway sitting there like a big dumb dog watching traffic before running back into the woods.

Something that applies to other subjects taken into the online world is that bear encounters are extremely rare even in the "canister required" areas. But the fact that it is a noteworthy event means people go out of their way to let others know about it. Creates the perception that these events are common when they are not.

wildwesthikes wrote:No need to carry bear spray on the mogollon rim but I do frequently see others carrying it.
I hang an Ursack for bear/critter food safety at all times

Same here on both counts. Bear scat exists in great concentration up there, and I've seen plenty of bears, but never any problem bears yet. Ursack has worked well for me since I started using it in 2002.

The only place I've seen in AZ that rivals the Rim for bear concentration is the Sierra Ancha.

Great to know. I may keep some spray with me *just in case*, but you've all made me more excited at the prospect of seeing a bear instead of being deathly afraid like I was while initially making the post! Ha

@ZonaNative22
Yep as long as you're smart with your food storage (don't sleep with your food on the rim) you should be totally fine. I'm more wary of drunken car camping wildlife on the rim than the wildlife wildlife

Wanted to come back and say thank you to everyone for the suggestions. We had originally planned for the Aspen Spring site via @grasshopper suggestion, but decided with the Grand Canyon trip looming we would be better served to push ourselves with some elevation gain on the Babe Haught Trail as @wildwesthikes suggested.

We had an amazing time. Left the Hatchery around 2pm and arrived to Knoll Lake close to 5pm. It kicked our butt for sure, but most of it was because of our first time wearing large packs. We had them loaded down too much (35# for me, 25# for my wife), but we knew that would likely be the case and it was a great learning experience.

We saw 2 people on the way up, and 5 people on the return trip - great solitude. When we arrived at the lake, there were many kayakers present who had already setup camps. We were worried we wouldn't find anything, especially so late in the day. To our pleasant surprise, after some walking along the SE section of the lake we came across an AWESOME site right off the water. It was such a good site I couldn't believe it was still available, but I am guessing it was because the kayakers couldn't get their rigs quite as close to camp in this site compared to others.

We had camp setup within 15-20 minutes, made a few dehydrated meals for dinner, and enjoyed a cold beverage that was cooled down thanks to our "lake beer garden" we made when we arrived.

The temps were great, and the only thing that would've made the trip better is a camp fire.

Thanks again to everyone for your input... we are hooked and looking forward to many more trips!

ZonaNative22 wrote:the only thing that would've made the trip better is a camp fire.

No reason you couldn’t have had one. Sounds like a fun trip either way.

chumley wrote:No reason you couldn’t have had one. Sounds like a fun trip either way.

Isn't Coconino in a Stage I fire restriction?

@ZonaNative22
You hiked through two national forests that are in stage 1, but you camped in A-S, which isn't.

But when you aren't absolutely certain, you made the correct choice to not build one.

@chumley
I just looked at my forest map... Wow, great to know! I would have never guessed...

ZonaNative22 wrote:We had them loaded down too much (35# for me, 25# for my wife)

With Grand Canyon backpacking I often find myself carrying 10-12 lbs of water which puts my pack even heavier. If you consider your weights too much you should probably stick to the corridor trails for your Grand Canyon trip.