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Glacier Peak via Disappointment Peak Cleaver
1 Photoset

2023-08-05  
mini location map2023-08-05
103 by photographer avatarLucyan
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Glacier Peak via Disappointment Peak CleaverNorth Cascades, WA
North Cascades, WA
Hike & Climb64.00 Miles 11,693 AEG
Hike & Climb64.00 Miles4 Days         
11,693 ft AEG
 no routes
1st trip
Linked   none no linked trail guides
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Glacier Peak Approach:
Approach Time to Camp: 7-10 hours
Trailhead: Sloan Creek Campground, 2100 ft.
White Pass Camp: 5900 ft.
Glacier Gap Camp: 7300 ft.
Vertical Gain from Trailhead to Summit: 9200 ft. gain

From Sloan Creek Campground, we followed Trail 649 along the North Fork of the Sauk River. After 5.5 miles, we reached the Mackinaw Shelter Camp. We continued on Trail No. 649 up switchbacks for roughly 2,500 vertical feet until a rising traverse takes us to White Pass, just below its intersection with the Pacific Crest Trail. We made camp at 5,900 feet.

From White Pass, we followed the Foam Creek Trail on an ascending traverse under White Mountain. We left the trail and headed up to the Eastern Col at about 6,600 feet, where we enjoyed our first views of Glacier Peak. A 400-foot descending traverse leads to low-angle terrain that took us up to the former edge of the White Chuck Glacier at roughly 6,700 feet. Numerous campsites are available here on flat snow, but we continued north across the former bed of the White Chuck Glacier to our high camp at the col on the edge of the Suiattle Glacier at 7,300 feet.

From here we descended 100 feet to the nose of the Disappointment Cleaver and the beginning of our climbing route to Glacier Peak’s snowy summit. From high camp, we climbede moderate snowfields around Disappointment Peak to the Cool Glacier. We ascended the Cool Glacier, eventually traversing a snow and rock arête before stepping onto Glacier Peak’s summit. From the summit, we enjoyed panoramic views of the Glacier Peak Wilderness, Mount Baker, Mount Rainier and the peaks of the North Cascades. We descended to high camp, packed our gear and continue back to our White Pass camp for the evening.

After breakfast, we broke camp, packed our gear and retraced our steps back to the trailhead.
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Moderate
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