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Hesperus Mountain - 4 members in 6 triplogs have rated this an average 4.5 ( 1 to 5 best )
6 triplogs
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Jul 06 2024
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 Guides 94
 Routes 842
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52 male
 Joined Sep 18 2002
 Tempe, AZ
Hesperus MountainSouthwest, CO
Southwest, CO
Hiking avatar Jul 06 2024
chumleyTriplogs 1,994
Hiking4.52 Miles 2,776 AEG
Hiking4.52 Miles   4 Hrs   23 Mns   1.24 mph
2,776 ft AEG      45 Mns Break
 
1st trip
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I was camping nearby and looking for a solid butt-kicking, so this one looked to fit the bill. Wx was providing cloudless skies with no threat of afternoon storms, so running around on mountain peaks seemed to be a fine idea.

In the years since the description for this hike was written here on HAZ, it seems that the relatively few who summit this peak have congregated onto a common route, which despite it's steepididity and the oxygen deprivation that occurs for flatlanders like myself, I found to be fairly straightforward. In the lower woodlands, the route is thoroughly trodden and beaten down, while the scree areas are well-cairned.

After traversing the lower talus slopes, I took the main gully toward the saddle following the "black line" early on before trying to make some more tolerable switches and cut the grade a bit. Finally I was able to reach a pooey rock band to the right of the black line that provided some more firm hand and foot holds to allow for steadier anchors on breathing breaks. Closer to the top of the helpful rock band, a couple of defined switchbacks lead me to the saddle where I had time to evaluate my decision making and life choices.

Along the entire ascent you can see the summit (or close to it) and it seems that from the saddle to the top isn't too much more, but that is just flat wrong. It's 1000 feet more in under half a mile. That 12-13k level always seems to suck it out of me. The route was generally easy to follow, traversing the talus below the true ridge on the south side, though there are a couple of easy rock bands to get through where multiple use paths diverge. I'm sure one is better than the other, but none are more challenging than anything before it, so there are no surprise cruxes or obstacles to be found higher up.

At the summit, I caught up to a pair of couples who I had seen on the ascent most of the day. One of the couples had married on the summit 9 years earlier and were celebrating their anniversary.

We discussed the route and they had previously taken the full ridgeline similar to shatteredarm's route posted here, but they had long concluded the additional mileage was not worth avoiding the steep ascent.

Summit views covered most of the notable San Juan highlights from Wilson to Handies and the Chicago Basin group. Four-state views included the La Sals in Eastern Utah, Shiprock, the Chuskas, and Pastora could be seen in New Mexico and Arizona.

On the way down, the best part of the day was descending the black stripe. It's essentially a fine gravel scree slope, but the gravel is made of small flat slate-like chips rather than round pebbles. It was like skiing down a nice double black diamond. With no turns. Lol. Each step probably dropped me about 10 feet, and it was a wonderfully controlled slide the whole way down.

From the bottom of the black stripe it was just deliberate steps through the talus until getting back below the treeline and the short trail back to the trailhead.

It had taken just under 2.5 hours to reach the summit (a blistering pace of under 1mph!) and just under 1.5 to get down (I could have done this quicker but didn't want to catch up and crowd the group of four that were on the summit and descended ahead of me).

This was a difficult summit for me. When the comfort and joy of a trail doesn't exist, I'd rather have firm rock and light scrambling on my mountain climbs than so much loose talus. But I also don't do class 4 or higher, so perhaps talus is the better alternative if forced to choose? I carried two hiking poles with me and found that using them was the better decision for about 80% of my steps.

A good challenge, but I'd probably think twice before making a second attempt on this one.
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  2 archives
Aug 28 2021
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 Guides 12
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42 male
 Joined Nov 30 2015
 Phoenix, AZ
Hesperus MountainSouthwest, CO
Southwest, CO
Run/Jog avatar Aug 28 2021
ShatteredArmTriplogs 356
Run/Jog14.13 Miles 4,351 AEG
Run/Jog14.13 Miles   6 Hrs   21 Mns   2.29 mph
4,351 ft AEG      10 Mns Break
 
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1st trip
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Thought this one would be fun since it's one of the Navajo sacred peaks. The "standard" route is only ~5 miles RT, and I needed more miles, so I started all the way over off the Echo Basin loop road, at the end of FR566A, which is also the start of the Golconda Trail 173. This trail is an old road that is now only legal for vehicles up to 55" wide.

Foot was hurting a little on the jog down to Trail 183 (Owens Connector Trail), so I was a bit worried. 183, along with West Mancos Trail, are legal for motorcycles. West Mancos Trail was nice, and it was early enough in the morning that the motorcycle crowd was still asleep...

At about 4.5 miles the trail was heading up, and I saw a couple who had left the trail, so I thought this must be the area to start heading up. Once I got to a clearing, I could see the ridge - the scree slope, along with the "grassy slope" I had heard about. I decided to shoot for that, since I like traction. The going wasn't too tough in the lower sections; I mostly followed clearings whenever possible. After about half a mile off trail, it started getting really steep - climbed about 1,000 feet in about half a mile. Gaining the ridgeline was a relief.

Once on the ridge, the route was obvious. There was *maybe* one spot that could've been easy class 3, for the most part it was just hiking on loose scree and talus. After a couple of false summits I made it to the top, and took in the view for a few minutes.

Went back down to where I had gained the ridge, and saw the couple from earlier heading back down. I guess they decided to only do the hard part... I decided at this point to just follow the ridge all the way down, which was really nice until I hit the trees. This it was slower going, but nothing terrible. A couple times I ran across cairns, so I think at one point the entire ridge must have been a more popular route...

I was relieved to be back on trail, and only ran into one group of motorcycles on West Mancos trail. Took a little detour on the way back to the Golconda site, then back up the old road to the gate.
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Sep 27 2018
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 Guides 13
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60 male
 Joined Nov 15 2005
 Jackson, CA
Hesperus MountainSouthwest, CO
Southwest, CO
Hiking avatar Sep 27 2018
toddakTriplogs 577
Hiking6.50 Miles 3,000 AEG
Hiking6.50 Miles   5 Hrs   30 Mns   1.18 mph
3,000 ft AEG
 no routes
1st trip
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Fine peak in a beautiful area. The spine of the summit ridge is Class 3, there's also a well-established Class 2 route up the scree slope just right of the ridge. Parked along FR 350 and road walked to the trailhead.
foliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observation
Autumn Foliage Observation Substantial
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Jul 10 2013
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46 male
 Joined Sep 08 2006
 
Hesperus MountainSouthwest, CO
Southwest, CO
Hiking avatar Jul 10 2013
JimTriplogs 2,324
Hiking5.00 Miles 2,800 AEG
Hiking5.00 Miles   5 Hrs      1.00 mph
2,800 ft AEG
 no routes
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Partners none no partners
Had a long report written, but decided that was stupid. I went up the black scree slope, summited, enjoyed the views, and returned. Happy I did this. Lovely day. Deeper thoughts, but they will stay just that. Been almost 5 years since I was on Hesperus.
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wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Substantial
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Sep 13 2008
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 Guides 73
 Routes 176
 Photos 10,174
 Triplogs 2,324

46 male
 Joined Sep 08 2006
 
Hesperus MountainSouthwest, CO
Southwest, CO
Hiking avatar Sep 13 2008
JimTriplogs 2,324
Hiking5.00 Miles 2,800 AEG
Hiking5.00 Miles   6 Hrs   50 Mns   0.73 mph
2,800 ft AEG
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I was back up in Durango and climbed Hesperus with a partner from 14ers. Had some snow, and its turning over to autumn. The best way to go up and down may actually be the scree slope directly below the first saddle.
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Jul 20 2008
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 Guides 73
 Routes 176
 Photos 10,174
 Triplogs 2,324

46 male
 Joined Sep 08 2006
 
Hesperus MountainSouthwest, CO
Southwest, CO
Hiking avatar Jul 20 2008
JimTriplogs 2,324
Hiking6.00 Miles 2,800 AEG
Hiking6.00 Miles   7 Hrs   30 Mns   0.80 mph
2,800 ft AEG
 no routes
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Hesperus Mountain is located in the La Plata Mountains west of Durango, CO. The La Platas are a sub-range of the San Juan Mountains. Hesperus is generally considered the high point of the La Platas, but some say Lavender Peak is. I don't know, but Hesperus seemed higher to me. I don't care that much though, so lets not argue it if you have an opinion on the matter.


This was my 3rd summit of the 4 sacred mountains of the Navajo that I was to climb this summer. It was the hardest sacred mountain and the hardest of all the climbs I did on my Colorado trip. It had the best weather, though, so I can't complain. Basically. I camped near the Twin Lakes, headed upslope from the west Mancos trail and did a traverse over some nasty scree and talus before ascending a talus gully to the second saddle east of the summit. I then went through a gully on the south side of the peak to reach the first ledge and followed a climbers trail to the summit. I descended to the saddle, and went down a steep scree slope. This description is very vague and doesn't do my efforts justice (see the long climbing time). It was a very hard climb and being alone made it all the more difficult. Fantastic views of the San Juans and surrounding areas including Mesa Verde, Ute Mountain, and possibly the La Sals in Utah. I was able to see Lizard Head Peak, the Wilson Group (14ers), the Chicago Basin Group (14ers), and the Animas River valley from the summit. It was my first 13er/ 4000 meter peak of the summer season.
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average hiking speed 1.21 mph

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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