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Pitamakan Pass Trail - 2 members in 7 triplogs have rated this an average 5 ( 1 to 5 best )
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Aug 14 2021
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 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
Oldman Lake to No Name Lake, MT 
Oldman Lake to No Name Lake, MT
 
Backpack avatar Aug 14 2021
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Backpack7.52 Miles 1,749 AEG
Backpack7.52 Miles   6 Hrs   29 Mns   1.44 mph
1,749 ft AEG
 
1st trip
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Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
After a restful nite and a good breakfast, we had a big climb ahead of us. We started going about 7:45AM on a lovely morning. We walked through the silver trees for a bit before we came to a clearing where the side of the mountain about smacks you in the face as you look nearly straight up to where the Pass is. We all know there are switchbacks are involved and thank the switchback Lord for them before we proceed. We will be going up about 750 feet in a mile. And once we're at the pass, we'll still have another 500 feet to the Pitamakan Overlook in about 1/2 mile.

Fortunately, this is one of the more beautiful "ups" :) one will ever hike I think. Almost as pretty as the hike to Triple Divide Pass in the valley to the north of us. As you go higher your view of the lake gets larger. And the geology and flora along the way is entertaining. When you start heading east, of course, you have a smoky view of the Dry Fork Valley. The smoke was getting pretty intense which made for a fiery sun rising into the air. And even though it's sad to see all the silver (dead) trees, it is rather artistic as we look down at the area around Oldman (Old Man) Lake.

I started counting the switchbacks, the first five were itsy bitsy. One of them I thot I was filming but I wasn't; probably number seven, "come eleven", as it was long at 1/4 mile with 300 feet of gain and not that easy. You can see number seven on the topo map. Number eight, "don't be late", actually had a bit of a downhill which didn't please us cuz our objective is UP. However, it was slightly longer than seven at 1/3 of a mile with 100 foot of gain including the downhill. Switchbacks 9 and 10 were fairly short before 11 took its time getting us to the Pass.

When Wendy (@writelots) and I were here in 2018, we did not come to this area where you almost come out at the top of the Pass. Well, the view down to the lakes is stunning; just too bad it was smoky. But still the colors of the lakes below you is impressive :D . We took the obligatory pictures before finishing off the last of this part of the hike to the signs that direct you to Cut Bank Pass, Morningstar Lake and Pitamakan Overlook. We decided to take a break where Wendy and I sat in 2018 with a view down to Oldman Lake as the views to the north were loaded with smoke. Needless to say, I was glad I got to see the Cut Bank Valley in all its glory [ photoset ] .

We saw quite a few hikers and talked with a few. One of them was hiking with an artificial leg and they were doing the whole loop as a day hike. We finally decided to tackle the last of the up along the north side of Mount Morgan. It's a narrow trail for the angle, but despite the scree-look, it'd not too slippery. There are a few flowers here and there sticking out of the rocks that I tried to document. I kept plugging ahead as the others were behind me as I was having one of those "killin' it" days and felt strong a : rambo : s I had since yesterday.

We joined up with three of the hikers we had met at the Pass and talked with them for a bit before heading on as it was a bit on the windy side which is quite normal for this area. We would be lucky that today, doing this traverse from the Overlook to Dawson Pass wasn't overwhelming with what can seem like gale force winds except when you got up on the viewpoints and saddles along the way. This part of the hike is notorious for crazy winds and many have turned back.

Sadly the smoke would interfere with any kind of distant views. In fact, it took me awhile to find the beautiful Nyack Lakes way below us in the Nyack Valley. I almost wondered if they had dried up but eventually I found them and did some zooms. I saw some big snow patches to the NW but it was so smoky, my camera wouldn't focus :o . Even the normally spectacular views to the south were shrouded in smoke as I could barely make out Mount St Nicholas.

It's quite the trek across the west side of Mount Morgan; longer than you think. You get up on two different saddles that give you some normally fantastic views down to Oldman Lake but once again, the smoke :( . One didn't linger long on these saddles because of the wind which you would think would blow the smoke out; just too much of it. Across the way is Mount Phillips looms large above the Nyack Valley. There is still a large snowfield on its side that once was Lupher Glacier. These snow masses always get my attention. Soon we were at Dawson Pass where all of a sudden the wind almost stopped; but it was just a tease as we made our way up and over the small hill before heading down a couple switchbacks to the head of the Bighorn Basin.

We stopped and had lunch within the shelter of some short rock walls that had been built so that was nice. There was still quite a bit of people traffic, at least I thot so. The last time I was here was 2013 when I took a ranger-guided hike with the notorious Ranger Pat Hagan who snowboot skied down a snowfield [ photo ] . (FYI - Wendy and I ran into Ranger Hagan in 2018 on our hike back from Upper Two Medicine and we also saw him on this trip but at Two Medicine Ranger Station a couple days prior).

As we started again we noticed a few hikers heading over to summit Mount Helen. Looks like a fairly easy summit but pretty narrow traverse to it. Now, we had to go down about 1700 feet in 2 1/4 miles. It was smoky here too which really obstructed the views into the valley below us that included Two Medicine and No Name Lake. As we made our way down this rather steep trail in places, I constantly questioned how I got up this in 2013 as it's not very forgiving.

There were spurts of wildflowers from time to time and even saw a butterfly. As you get closer to the bottom the trees start getting much taller and then the huckleberry-lined trail begins in earnest. However, I was still full from lunch so didn't imbibe :o . We eventually made it to the leg where I was put in charge of picking the campsite, there are three. After investigating them all, the best one was closes to the food prep area and not too far from the privy.

When I tried to set up my tent, I had a little difficulty with the shock cord but was still able to get it to work. We were able to just chill for the afternoon and kept waiting for others to join us but we had the place to ourselves which is surprising as it's not too far from a TH and a relatively easy backpack. The smoke interfered with our view of the lake so that was disappointing. There was lots of elderberry in the area and we were told there had been some bear in the 'hood and once again, we didn't see anything furry until the next morning.

Videos:
Oldman Lake to Pitamakan Pass [ youtube video ]
Pitamakan Pass to Dawson Pass [ youtube video ]
Dawson Pass to No Name Lake [ youtube video ]

WATCH: 6.96 miles (lowest elevation 6000, highest 8265) in 8,265 feet (1.79 up, 2.59 down). Avg bpm 115, max 148 with 26% in Zone 4, 43% in Zone 3, 21% in Zone 2) burning 2003 calories. Temperature shows as 65.8 degrees with 49% humidity finishing at 2:41PM.
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Moderate
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
  2 archives
Aug 13 2021
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 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
Pitamakan Pass Trail to Oldman Lake, MT 
Pitamakan Pass Trail to Oldman Lake, MT
 
Backpack avatar Aug 13 2021
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Backpack7.03 Miles 2,187 AEG
Backpack7.03 Miles   5 Hrs   21 Mns   1.71 mph
2,187 ft AEG
 
1st trip
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Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
Day 1 of 3: This was supposed to be our second backpack of our Glacier Park stay but weather precluded the first one to Gunsight Lake. (We ended up hiking 6 days in a row, 3 of them pre-planned.) I would meet Tina and Laura (another glacierchatter) at the Two Medicine Ranger Station as Tina had to run to Cut Bank to get her Covid-travel test in order to get back into Canada on the 15th. So we got a late start on what was to be a slightly warm day for the Park. We parked our cars at the campground and were lucky to find the last two spots in this area. The loop we were getting ready to do is also very popular with day hikers and doing it counterclockwise from Pray Lake is considered the easier route.

We geared up and headed across the Two Medicine River pedestrian bridge and would be taking the right (north) fork to skirt around the base of Rising Wolf Mountain. This would be all new territory for me until the Pass itself where Wendy and I were in 2018 on a day hike. This is also part of the CDT.

We would be walking in and out of shade and up and down a couple little hills before the landscape opened up as we swung west with Spot Mountain in the distance to the NNE. Soon we would be crossing and hiking next to the Dry Fork that spills into Two Medicine Creek to the east. Just a little past where we walked across the bridge over the dry Dry Fork (however, it was running up higher as we headed west), we saw another hiker and looking at the map, there is another trail that takes you back to the Two Medicine Entrance Station 2.6 miles from here called, you guessed it, the "Dry Fork Trail". We took a break a little ways after a wet drainage that was coming from a small lake above us to the north (between Spot and Red Mountains). It had some great flora along its banks :) .

We continued our trek up the Dry Fork valley. It was mostly open until the last mile or so where you gained in elevation. In the hazy distance you could see Flinsch Peak and Mount Morgan. I could also see the wet portion of the Dry Fork off to my left (SW) so I would do some occasional zooming to get a closer look. We would cross a couple more drainages and started to see some day hikers from time to time. We also saw a couple of grouse that weren't sure if they wanted to stay on the trail or not so we waited for them to decide before proceeding.

In the far distance I could see water falls. I thot they were flowing from Young Man Lake or Boy Lake but after further Rx, I think it was Lake 6182 below Rising Wolf. The water eventually flows into the Dry Fork. Wish it wasn't so hazy as the zoomed pictures didn't turn out that well. As we entered into the forest permanently the trail crew had built these very nice steps and it seemed from here, Huckleberry Heaven began :y: . Yes, I had to pull over to imbibe. Some other hikers saw us and asked if they were huckleberries. I would be surprised to find how few people knew about these lush berries but I guess that's not a bad thing as it leaves more for me and the bears :D .

Shortly we would encounter two people that had stayed at the Chalet and that we had met about a mile from Ahern Pass two days ago. We exchanged phone numbers as she wants to do some hiking in AZ. They are very good hikers from Maryland. That's what I love about Glacier as this happens more often than not you run into people you know. As we got nearer the junction to the campground, we were told by some hikers that there was a bear and cub around. But as usual, we would see neither hide nor hair of her but we did keep an eye out. Also in this area you start to see lots of silver trees. The short side path down to the lake travels through a ghostly forest of dead whitebark pines, the result of white pine blister rust, a fungal disease that was accidentally introduced from Europe around 1900.

We did have to take our time on this hike as Laura hasn't been out backpacking for quite some time so she had to get her sea legs. She is quite the hiker/backpacker and has been all over the park. We used her large MSR 10L Water Gravity Filter so that would save us a few trips to fetch water for our trip. On our hike down to get water at Oldman (Old Man) Lake, two people had just come out from their swim. We kept our eye out for Momma Bear and I can see why she would use this as her entrance to the lake as it's steep and rugged around the edges.

Soon a big group of guys came in to the food prep area. They were being led by a Glacier Guide. They were very tired as they had come from Upper Two Medicine. They were Ivy League college buddies that had united for this trip. They were a lot younger than they looked which surprised me. Tina and I made our tries at the bear pole food hang. Tina nailed it and I once again, wrapped my string again but we were able to get it undone without too much effort.

After cocktails and dinner, we went up to our very nice campsite and hung out sitting in our chairs. It was a lovely evening, perfect weather.


3 videos:
[ youtube video ]
[ youtube video ]
[ youtube video ]
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Light
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
 
Jul 29 2018
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 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
Atlantic Creek Camp to Cut Bank Ranger Station, MT 
Atlantic Creek Camp to Cut Bank Ranger Station, MT
 
Hiking avatar Jul 29 2018
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Hiking4.77 Miles 282 AEG
Hiking4.77 Miles   2 Hrs   38 Mns   1.93 mph
282 ft AEG      10 Mns Break
 
1st trip
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writelots
You know it's funny, now that I'm back I don't really remember how I slept so I have to think I slept well while camping in the back country. I still think I am a bit of a human rotisserie but not as bad as I once was. I am loving my new tent and once Wendy helped me with the staking after the rain a couple nites before, I like it even more. Today would be an easy day, a time to enjoy and reflect on an incredible two days. We didn't have to rise early altho the sooner we got back to the car, the sooner we would get to a Huckleberry Lager.

It already seemed a little warm after we parted camp. We got started around 8:45. The conditions for the hike back on this trail were certainly different then when we came in. Today we would have blue skies. I decided to move my E/V setting down a third on my camera and that paid off. I have to remember that more often when we have those high contrast days; especially coming in and out of the forest. It really was a nice hike in different light; the pictures reflect that. Our big surprise today was the meadows. OMG, the meadows and not just your run of the mill meadows but flower-filled meadows :y: . It was flower-filled meadow after flower-filled meadow. The meadows weren't as full of blooming flowers when we came in but between the rain and the sunshine today, they were putting on a show.

The trail takes you away from the creek for a bit and you cross over a drainage, past the mooseless/beaverless ponds, in and out of the forest and then into some serious meadows, one after the other. We did do our little side tour to see if we could find Wendy's container of rum but just like my sunglasses, some critter made out pretty well. No reports of a loopy critter yet. After that we did encounter a ranger on her way in. She said she was new to the area, had only been there for a year and came from Yellowstone. When we got to the parking area we see she had ticketed a car parked by the No Parking sign. I can't remember if there is a sign up that says there is additional parking at the ranger station 1/2 mile from the TH.

I seem to recall we did run into a few hikers off and on as we were coming out. We also encountered some horseback riders. But most of our encounters was with the wildflowers. So many wildflowers and sometimes we got filtered light which really helped with taking photos. However, I find taking photos of meadows is very hard. It's not like a skill one practices as how many meadows does one usually run into.

Once back at the TH we walked the 1/2 mile to our car. Even this was quite scenic with additional wildflower action and a great pasture. We had stashed some coco sparkling water in the styrofoam cooler and ice we bot; they were ice cold. That was so great. We headed to St Mary's and hit the grocery store first where we picked up some stuff including a six pack of Huckleberry Lager and I got these really cool Glacier National Park sunglasses.

And then we went to check into the St Mary KOA but they wouldn't let us into the cabin until 3 so we headed to Johnson's across the highway for a fried chicken dinner that we split as they are served family style with fresh bread, a killer soup, great cole slaw and french fries. But the piece de resistance for me was the Huckleberry Creme Fizz, OMG! It was killer and so refreshing. Here is where we talked to one of our fellow campmates from Morning Star Lake. It was a down day for them.

We finally got checked into our cabin and showered and then met up with some fellow glacierchatters, one who was staying in a tent (he leads hikes for Glacier Mountaineering Society) and the other two just happened to be in the cabin next to us. I can't remember what we did for dinner but later we car pooled to Swiftcurrent TH where we would be coming out in a few days. The road into Many Glacier is as bad as I heard. There is one hole that could almost eat a small car but luckily we came out okay. There is one on the other side of the road as well. It's terrible all the way to the Ranger Station.

Bill picked us up and then we went over to Many Glacier Lodge to catch the Jack Gladstone show. I knew I had seen it before but it's probably been at least 15 years. It was a good show as he now incorporates the artist Charlie Russell's artwork into his presentation. He sings and plays the guitar and tonite a ranger added in with her cello on three of the pieces. Jack Gladstone is “Montana’s Troubadour.” An enrolled citizen of the Blackfeet Indian Nation, Jack illustrates Western and Native American culture through a mosaic of music, lyric poetry, and spoken word. He performs all over in the Park and elsewhere.

As we were departing guess who saw us and came to say hello. Think Triple Divide Pass, yep, it was Max. So the coincidences continue. Max also knew Bill from somewhere but I don't recall but probably from the GMS (Glacier Mountaineering Society). Bill is in his 60s I think and Max in his 20s. So that was a pleasant surprise. They talked about how Bill and his crew were the last ones out of Iceberg Trail as it was closed due to bear activity. Bill leads the Shangrila hike over the back way to Iceberg Lake. He and his other friends from MN that we were staying next to have been hiking in the park for a couple decades. (I think Bill sometimes reads my trip reports, so feel free to send me an email to correct my recollection).

And tomorrow, it's off to the Granite Park Chalet.

The video only has one movie as it's mostly pictures. If you don't like mountains, meadows filled with wildflowers, a big creek and classical music, you may not like this one: [ youtube video ]



 Culture
 Culture [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Throwing a Wendy
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Extreme
it's more like what I didn't see. Meadows filled with flowers let alone flowers along the trail.
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
 
Jul 28 2018
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 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
Morning Star Lake to Atlantic Creek Campground, MT 
Morning Star Lake to Atlantic Creek Campground, MT
 
Hiking avatar Jul 28 2018
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Hiking3.51 Miles 315 AEG
Hiking3.51 Miles   2 Hrs   4 Mns   1.77 mph
315 ft AEG      5 Mns Break
 
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I guess I really should include this with the Triple Divide Pass report but being as I recorded a separate route and we set up camp at ATL, I'll try and make this short. We had a big rain/thunder storm last nite at MOR. It was amazing to listen to the thunder as it rolled up the glacial valley and then seemed to roll back. I didn't think to record it until about the last part as it really was quite loud. (It's at the end of Video 5 for Pitamakan). The rain came down pretty hard so needless to say, we packed up wet tents and some wet bags that had been hanging from the bear pole. AND this also means, hiking through wet flora.

So off we went after a little breakfast. It was a bright beautiful day and the rain seemed to make the green a little more intense this morning. We stopped and gazed at the North Fork of Cut Bank Creek again and then gazed at the waterfalls coming from Lake 6686 of Medicine Grizzly Peak. The lighting was difficult. Even as we passed the four waterfalls we would still look back occasionally as the light was better too.

It was nice to hike thru the valley part in the morning as we had come thru here late afternoon under hazy skies on Thursday. Once again we were intrigued by an offshoot trail that goes east in one of the meadow areas toward the creek. It's well worn but has also been cordoned off by brush. I don't see anything on the topo but it does show up on satellite. It's 2.34 miles from MOR. I included a picture of it at the end of the photoset. Perhaps it was the old campsite for the area? Oh, I also have it on the video.

By now we were soaked from our knees down by the wet vegetation. We got to the junction and saw that we had another .4 miles to go uphill to the campground. I didn't realize it was that far from the junction so up we trudged thru the thick vegetation. A couple campsites were already taken so we had a choice of two different sites that would best fit Wendy's hammock. We went over to the food prep area and hung our bear bags and then came back and hung up the hammock tarp and put all of our stuff below that and would set up camp when we got back. We watered up at the creek next to the food prep area and after a snack, loaded up our packs to do Wendy's mountain.

And here is the [ youtube video ]
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Moderate
spirea, aster, cow parsnip, red monkey flower, pearly everlasting, groundsel, parry's catchfly, aster, hellebore, paintbrush, foam flower
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
 
Jul 27 2018
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 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
Morning Star Lake - Pitamakan Pass plus, MT 
Morning Star Lake - Pitamakan Pass plus, MT
 
Hiking avatar Jul 27 2018
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Hiking8.32 Miles 2,624 AEG
Hiking8.32 Miles   7 Hrs   40 Mns   1.43 mph
2,624 ft AEG   1 Hour   50 Mns Break
 
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writelots
We had no idea how beautiful this hike was going to be. But first we had to admire the beauty of Morning Star Lake on a blue sky morning. None of the critters were about yet. We had a nice breakfast and then just loaded up for a day hike to the Passes. I was very nervous about the elevation gain as other than yesterday, I hadn't hiked for a month let alone any kind of elevation unless the Stair Stepper at the Club counts?
I had the elevation gain all written down:
  • 1000 feet in 1.82 miles (about a Shaw Butte and 1/2)) to Pitamakan Lake
    825 feet in 1.26 miles (another Shaw Butte) to Pitamakan Pass
    446 feet in .50 miles (1/2 Shaw Butte in 1/2 of the distance) for a total of 2240 feet in 3 1/2 miles
So off we went and it starts up right away. However, the grade was pretty good for most of the trek up to Pitamakan Lake including some flat areas here and there through the forest, along the creek. As you round the first switchback you get to see the seedheads of anemones, they're just so darn cute. They were mixed in with some paintbrush so it was a real pretty area.

About 3/4 mile into the hike we could hear rushing water and saw a little use trail so we obliged. We got to see a pretty waterfalls over the red rock; this was unexpected and I don't know that I've seen anyone mention it. It's not super big or anything but certainly worthy of stepping off the trail. You eventually get pretty close to the actual drainage and walk alongside of it for awhile as you constantly have your eyes pointed to the prize as you can see Mount Morgan lurking over you. To your right, west, is McClintock Peak altho I thot it was Medicine Grizzly.

About a mile in you get a glimpse of Katoya Lake (Lake #6368) with Red Mountain rising 3000 feet above it. Many years ago there was a backcountry site on the lake shore, but Grizzly activity through the years forced it to be removed. It's pretty foresty through here as you climb a switchback.

After a little more climbing the trail levels off and actually starts taking you down as you get closer to the lake. And what a lake this is. It may not be big but it's glacial. Pitamakan Lake seemed like a perfect place for a break even though we were only into the hike less than two miles. We had all day and the days are long here. So we had a snack and just sat back and admired the beauty of its colorful rock bottom and silty blue top with a huge snowbank at the end. There had been glacier lilys blooming all around here.

Alas it was time to continue the second part of our climb. This part would have some steep sections but they were very short plus it really was beautiful as you elevated above the lake and watched it changed color. Aas you walked up on the usual excellent trail tread of GNP, we admired the flora with more anemones and paintbrush and all sorts of fir trees from little to medium to big. I get so spoiled here. And then to your right you start to get glimpses of the Lake of the Seven Winds. As you get a little higher you get the view of both lakes and they are just spectacular to look at. And then the rising mountains and it's hard to imagine from here a glacier made its way down the Cut Bank Valley. The Cut Bank Glacier was relatively small compared to some of the other valleys but it had to make one heck of a cut when it eventually veered eastward.

We are also seeing different flora as we get higher into the switchbacks until you finally get to the straightaway for that last 1/4 mile. And now on the mountainside the flora gets really small but very colorful and the marmots apparently find it pretty tasty as do the Rocky Mountain sheep we will see on our way up Dawson Pass. From a ways back we were able to see people both on the Pitamakan Ridge and going up Dawson Pass. Before you know it, HAZel said we were at 3 miles at the trail sign. We could look down the 800 feet we had just come up and see others taking a break at the mouth of Pitamakan Lake.

The ridge is fairly wide here as I made my way over to the other side to get my first glimpse of Oldman Lake. I'm not sure why they spell it all as one word since not too far from here is Young Man Lake tucked into the wings of Flinsch Peak. It's finally great to come to a place I've heard about and seen so many pictures. This hike has been pretty amazing and now it was time for a great lunch that Wendy started down at our Pitmakan Lake stop by adding water to some ramen noodles in a baggie. Now up here she added all the other good stuff. It was so good. There was a chipmunk that had his eye on us though. It was a fairly busy place as one guided group passed through. Most people are doing the Pitamakan-Dawson Loop.

Next it was up to Dawson Pass. From here is also the trail to Cut Bank Pass which takes you over into the Nyack Valley. That is probably where you will see more bears than people. Sadly a lot of it burned a couple years back. The trails are also not that well maintained. The hike up west up this north part of Dawson pass is a lot what I envision hiking up the Weatherford Trail from the Inner Basin. And the reward, well, pretty awesome. Except here, while hiking up the pass we looked down a little ways to see a rather large herd of female sheep and a couple lambs coming up the Pitamakan Pass Trail. We stopped to enjoy watching them. The little ones were having a good time. I got some pictures and movies.

I expected it to be quite windy as this pass is noted for that but today, it was just right. There were a few people up here enjoying the views both near and far. The next portion where we head south to the western side of Mount Morgan, is a whole other ballgame for Wendy as she has a fear of heights. This really tested her in a couple spots. A hoary marmot jumped on the trail to lead the way and the sun came out so I thought that would help. It's only 3000 feet or so down. The mountainside is pretty bare but I thot the trail was pretty wide for the most part. Wendy was huggin' the side of the mountain though. We encountered a few people along the way. We made it to the west side of Mount Morgan. I wanted her to see Mount Saint Nicholas as it's pretty cool-looking but we could only see one side of it. Nonetheless, this was a neat spot and we hung here for just a bit before heading back.

On our way back (north) toward Pitamakan Pass, a hoary marmot jumped around Wendy and startled her. I presume he was the same marmot that was trying to lead her earlier. He lurked above us for awhile and then we scurried on. I could tell Wendy was anxious to get this over and done with. The nice thing about it is she hikes a little slower so I really get to take in the sights. And once we hit the NW corner of Mount Morgan, another marmot appeared. They sure seemed to be out en masse up here as this was the third one we had seen up close and personal today. We enjoyed seeing more flowers as we hiked down the pass to Pitamakan intersection.

The sun was coming in and out so the colors of the two lakes was constantly changing. They are really a sight to behold. Plus some other flowers had started blooming including these little white flowers that almost covered this nearly bare side of the mountain. We stopped many times to admire the scenery and look back at the folks on the Pitamakan Ridge. A lot of folks seemed to linger there. Once we made it to the Lake we stopped to admire it before heading on our way. We hiked in and out of the forest, got our glimpse of Katoya and hiked along its drainage. We finally came to the view of our lake altho it's just a glimpse. And before you knew it, we were back at camp.

Another hiker was tossing up her bear bag and later the Frenchman Bruno would show up. His English was not the best and he was trying out new cooking equipment that Wendy had to assist with when the stove's fire wouldn't go out. The other gal was a hike leader/guide and had some great stories. She brot the kitchen to cook up her tasty meal. She had hiked quite a distance via a walk-up permit from Red Eagle Lake over Triple Divide Pass to here. Bruno had hiked from Two Medicine and was on a five day backpack I think. Bruno was another coincidence that we would be staying at the same camp ATL the next nite. Oh I almost forogt, a female moose didn't stop for dinner as she was startled by our presence when she came back from the lake.

It was a good day and just as we had climbed into our sleeping quarters the rain started lightly, then the thunder and lightning. The thunder was fascinating as it rolled up the glacially carved valley and seemed to roll back when it hit the cirque wall that was less than three miles from us. And of course with mountains on three sides... it was quite the audio. I did get some of the sound on video.

Here are the videos:
[ youtube video ] Morning Star Lake to Pitamakan Lake
[ youtube video ] Pitamakan Lake to Pitamakan Pass and Ridge
[ youtube video ] Pitamakan Ridge to west side of Mount Morgan and back to North side of Dawson Pass (marmots and sheep)
[ youtube video ] North side of Dawson Pass almost to Pitamakan Lake
[ youtube video ] Pitamakan Lake to Morning Star Lake


wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Substantial
alpine paint brush, anemone, bistort, artic willow, forget me not, moss campion, sub alpine fur, death camas lily, lousewort, gentian, pasqueflower, yellow columbine, mountain penstemon
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
 
Jul 26 2018
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 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
Cut Bank Trailhead to Morningstar Lake, MT 
Cut Bank Trailhead to Morningstar Lake, MT
 
Hiking avatar Jul 26 2018
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Hiking7.10 Miles 1,015 AEG
Hiking7.10 Miles   4 Hrs   46 Mns   1.77 mph
1,015 ft AEG      45 Mns Break
 
1st trip
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writelots
We started late since we had all day to do this 6.4 mile hike according to our permit (ended up at 7). The weather was threatening but not enough to stop us from going. We went to Two Medicine Grill for breakfast and then over to Rock n Roll Bakery to see if they had a little knife in their gear section as Wendy had left hers over at Two Medicine where we had lunch. We also picked up two huckleberry grizzly buns. We returned to Brownies Hostel to load up our gear and headed off to the Cut Bank/Pitamakan Pass TH. It's a beautiful drive on Hwy 49. They are doing some major construction on US 89 once you get past that intersection. It looks like they are straightening a lot of the road; better late than never I guess.

We came to our turn for our five mile gravel road drive to our TH where I had hoped there would be parking and there wasn't. So we dropped our backpacks and Wendy took the car back to the ranger station a little more than 1/4 mile up the road. The ranger at Two Medicine said that would be an option. There is certainly room for more parking at this TH. There were already 4 or 5 cars at the Ranger Station parking area. On Wendy's walk back is where she met Bob, an elderly man. He is a volunteer Researcher with the Glacier Institute. I think he had been or would be working on a loon survey or something. She said they had great conversation. He carries quite the camera gear as well. He had recently done the trek over to Red Eagle Lake and said it wasn't the best hiking after the pass.

Bob would be the second of our many coincidences on this trip as we would meet him again on our hike down from the Chalet in less than a week and then running into him at Two Sisters in Baab. Our next coincidence was running into the gal that was at Glacier Outfitters in Apgar where we rented our bear spray. She was doing Triple Divide Pass today. And after enjoying our grizzly buns we were off on the Cut Bank Pass Trail, finally. Oh the packs were heavy as we loaded up knowing we had two nites at MOR and then only a 4 mile hike to ATL with heavy packs as we would be day hiking the rest of the time.

As usual, it starts off with a beautiful meadow and not just any meadow, a meadow with lots of flowers. And what else to finish off this scene but the North Fork of Cut Bank Creek and a big ole mountain, Bad Marriage Mountain. And there is little stretches of forest you come in and out of. And alas, our thimbleberry flora but not quite arm pit high. The thimbleberrys are not ripe yet so probably won't be much threat of bear activity for berries. We would run into Bob and his family about a mile in and talked with them a bit.

A couple miles later the rain was threatening so we geared up for it rather then getting caught in it. Wendy would now have to be in charge of the potato chip bag as I would put my pack cover on. The potato chip bag is a big responsibility as you have to be careful when you put the pack down not to crush the chips. I think Wendy thot I was a little crazy for carrying the chips but she found later at camp the next day after our big hike what a delight they were. About the 2 3/4 mile mark we saw a little side trail that went toward the Creek so we took it. You had a great view down into the rushing creek. We decided as long as were here to take a break. Sadly, this is where we think Wendy's little capsule of rum got left behind altho when we came back thru, it was nowhere to be found.

Once done enjoying the scenery we continued on. We crossed over a side creek where the views opened up pretty significantly; especially toward Kupunkamint and Amphitheatre Mountains to the north and northwest. We got closer to the creek and passed by a pond that would be perfect for moose habitat but alas, nothing. Shortly past here we would run into about 5 hikers who I assume were coming back from Triple Divide Pass. We crossed a couple bridges here. (FYI - if you follow the photos on the topo, the photos are about a tenth of a mile ahead). We came to the intersection with ATL campground/Triple Divide Pass/CDT and took pictures of the signs. We would be coming back this way in a couple days.

So we turned south for MOR thinking we had about 2.5 left but it would end up being 3 left, no big deal. We came to Atlantic Falls which are pretty except for the debris of course. They were flowing fast and furious. We eventually got a little closer to the North Fork of Cut Bank Creek and were hiking below Medicine Grizzly Peak on our right (west) and the west side of Bad Marriage Mountain. Eagle Plume and Red Mountain would also start coming into view. It opened up to quite the glacial valley ahead of us. And soon, we would see several water falls plummeting off of Medicine Grizzly. There is an unnamed lake 6686 that is responsible for all that action and it looks like its fed by a huge snowbank per the topo (we couldn't see either). Our lighting was not the best. We would cross over little running drainages while below the waterfalls that were very high above.

And yep, we were doing the heh bear for all of this hike and clicking our poles together. We would not see anybody on this stretch of our hike. We really didn't see much in the way of critters other than some squirrels and chipmunks. We took a quick break just before the lake; I can't remember why but I think that is where I lost my sunglasses. So we were thinking it was a good day for the critters between the rum and the sunglasses.

It started to sprinkle as we got to the foot of the lake and the sun came out. The bridge was an interesting one as it looks like it was held up by stumps. It was quite solid. We continued our way along the lake for less than a quarter mile when we finally came to the signage. First thing we saw was the pit toilet (covered), next were two camping spots, one already occupied by three tents. We continued walking toward the lake where we picked our spot with a HUGE downed log and a nice flat area for me and almost a perfect hanging spot for Wendy. Interesting, there was still some hail there from the hail storm we experienced the nite before in East Glacier.

We went to the food prep site to hang our food. Wendy got the line throw on the second try. Our campmates were doing some CDT and had started near Marias Pass at Essex where we were a couple nites ago. And for coincidence number 3, we would run into the fellow from IL I think it was at Johnson's restaurant on the 29th. Our campmates were most impressed by our booze collection (vodka, huckleberry wine spritzer, fireball). Anyway, it was nice visiting with them.

I can't remember if it was before or after dinner when we went to the lake for water that we saw the beaver, the goat and the ducks. We saw the ducks when we came in but now they were swimming around across from us. We think they were Goldeneye duck based on Wendy's bird app. Anyway, I took some movies of the beaver and the ducks. And to all a good nite.

Videos:
Part 1 Cut Bank Pass Trail [ youtube video ]
Part 2 to Atlantic Falls [ youtube video ]
Part 3 Atlantic Falls to Morningstar Lake including critter action about the 12 minute mark [ youtube video ]

wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Substantial
Sub alpine Paintbrush, bedstraw, lupine, gallardia (blanket flower), harebells, aspen fleabane, thimbleberry
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
 
Jul 13 2017
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 Guides 37
 Routes 556
 Photos 10,872
 Triplogs 1,052

43 male
 Joined Jan 21 2013
 AZ
Pitamakan Pass TrailNorth Central, MT
North Central, MT
Hiking avatar Jul 13 2017
FOTGTriplogs 1,052
Hiking25.66 Miles 5,537 AEG
Hiking25.66 Miles
5,537 ft AEG
 
1st trip
Linked   linked  
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This was a nice little over-night backpack that I did out of the Two Medicine area. I took Dawson Pass trail to Oldman Lake, then went over Pitamakan Pass on the way to Atlantic campground, where I hung my gear for a quick day hike up Triple Divide Pass, from there I hiked Cut Bank out to the trailhead and then hitched back to my car at Two Medicine.

I intended to hit Dawson Pass on the way to Oldman Lake through a very indirect large looping option. However, I was feeling very fatigued that day for some reason and my legs were feeling very heavy from the start, so I opted for the very direct route up Dawson Pass Trail and along day of relaxation at the lake. The hike in one was more tiring than it should have been, but it was pretty scenic in spots and over pretty quickly. I took several naps, snacked and read during my lazy day at the lake. Two other campers came in later in the day and they were pretty good company. Endured some very heavy winds, but no rain. Went to bed early in an effort to recoup a little energy.

Day two started with the climb up Pitamakan Pass. After hitting the intersection that connects the Dawson-Pit Loop, I made the quick half mile hike up to the overlook on the way to Dawson. Some of the nicest views in the park may be had here, however, they were slightly diminished by the scars of a recent forest fire on the west side of the pass. From there, I backtracked back to the Pitmakan Pass and started my hike towards Atlantic Campground. This stretch of trail was generally top notch. In particular, I enjoyed the descent from Pitmakan Pass and the Morning Star Lake area. After reaching Atlantic, I hung my gear and made a quick hike up to Triple Divide Pass. I thought Triple Divide Pass was pretty amazing and would probably rank it near Stoney Indian, as my favorites of the park. The grade going up was great and the views of Medicine Grizzly Lake and the waterfall feeding it will be hard to ever top. After Triple Divide, it was back down to my gear and then a pretty uneventful hike out Cut Bank to a series of hitches back to my car at Two Medicine.
 Culture
 Culture [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Intrepid Back Shot

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Oldman Lake 76-100% full 76-100% full

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Pitamakan Lake 76-100% full 76-100% full

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Seven Winds of the Lake 76-100% full 76-100% full

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Two Medicine Lake 76-100% full 76-100% full
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  1 archive
average hiking speed 1.67 mph

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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