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| Backpack | 12.00 Miles |
7,000 AEG |
| | Backpack | 12.00 Miles | 2 Days | | |
| 7,000 ft AEG | | 48 LBS Pack | | |
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| no partners | | In February of 2010, I got a chance to visit Vancouver for the Olympic games. Off to the southeast, I saw a soaring, glaciated peak and its magnetic pull was unforgettable.
Four years ago, my good friends from Denver, Shawn Keil and Dave Gaffield, and I met a group from across the country to climb Mt Rainier together, and have stayed in touch ever since that successful trip. Two from that Rainier climb, Alex Gaskins and JD Schlandt, and another friend from CO, Caroline Moore, made our group of 6. We all met up near the SeaTac airport and caravaned to Bellingham. Driving east into the hills, we couldn't help but stare at the mountain looming nearly 9,000' above us.
Shifting to more practical matters, we unpacked our gear in the Mt Baker Lodge at the foot of the volcano, sorting out who would carry what, reviewing knots, hydrating, and finalizing our packs. We packed into the room, joking and playing music. The next 2 days offered unsettled weather forecasts, with chances of storms over 50%: chances of summitting looked questionable, but all we could do was be patient and get in good position.
We checked in with the rangers and headed up to the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead. Earlier in Seattle, we had secured our Northwest Passes for the cars, so they wished us well and gave us a last-second report, highlighted by the uninspiring weather report. Rain drove against our windshields and visibility was poor. It was a quiet drive. By the time we'd reached the 3,000' level and the hike's start, at least the rain had ceased. Crowds of climbers were descending, and our spirits perked up when we realized almost all had made the summit. Tales of sunlight up higher and clear skies gave us hope in the Northwest mist.
With heavy packs, negotiating the climb and occasional log-covered, fast-moving river crossings proved challenging, but our group's progress was steady. Occasional snow began to interrupt the trail around 5,000', and soon we broke above the clouds and could see the picturesque Coleman Glacier to our left. Above treeline on the good trail, the temperature dropped and the wind picked up. Pitching camp on the last bit of dry ground before the glacier began, we hurriedly set up tents, melted snow for water and meals, and prepared our gear for the following day. With the wind, rain, and clouds, a summit bid beginning in mere hours seemed a pipe dream.
1 a.m. broke the next "morning", Shawn poked his head out of our tent, and his mood gave me all the indication of the weather outside: all good. Stars lit the clear sky above, though the wind still was a nuisance. Time to inhale some calories, put on clothes, and suit up. By 3 am, we were finally moving, with Shawn, Alex, and myself on Rope 1 and Dave, Caroline, and JD on Rope 2.
The climb was long - deceptively long - but steady. We moved underneath the Black Buttes and onto the Coleman Glacier proper. Occasional narrow crevasses laced the glacier, but at this point in the season, they were too narrow to be a concern. As daylight broke, we found a good bootpack, following this steady grade (no more than 25 degrees) all the way to the 9,000' saddle between Mt Baker and Colfax Peak.
The fun soon began. The angle increased as we gained the ridge, the wind howled and tossed us off-balance, and the track forced us to negotiate some loose pumice instead of solid snow and ice. Strong smells of sulfur occasionally wafted over from the Sherman Crater, reminding us that Baker is a dormant volcano. Still, we were finally in the sun and blue sky dominated the view, with Mt Rainier looming to the south. A few hundred feet later, we stared at the final obstacle, a 35-40 degree pitch, known as the Roman Wall. The exposure increased with the angle, and the views were spectacular. Soft snow conditions made traction more difficult as Shawn led our rope up at a steady pace. Alex, with such little snow experience, moved well. Dave, Caroline, and JD were directly behind me. After what seemed an eternity, we crested the wall and saw a welcome sight: flat ground and the true summit, close at hand! Coiling our rope, each time of three finished together, soaking in the panoramic and powerful view. At last, we stood atop Mt Baker's summit!
Getting on the leeward side of the peak, we refueling and rehydrated before starting down. Caroline prepared her skis and would stay near us throughout the descent. The descent of the Roman Wall was eventful! JD accidentially broke a trekking pole that he used in addition to his ice axe. Near the end of the pitch, Alex lost her balance and was unable to stop her slide, prompting me to arrest the rope team's fall. After that, it became a slog across the gentle glacier, dodging crevasses and fighting in vain to keep the sun from baking us. Our progress slowed as energy dropped. Finally, by about 3 pm, we descended the final slope above camp. Breaking camp was the last activity anyone wanted to do, but cold beer and thousands of calories in Bellingham was too much to resist. Thank goodness for longer days this far north.
It was a long and painful descent down the Heliotrope Ridge trail back to the car: river crossings were more swollen by the warm day and late hour, which required vigilance on tired legs. After crossing the final "crux log", it was all but over. After a 16-hour day, all six of us had stood atop Mt Baker and safely returned. Who could ask for more? The weather had held and we had another summit under our belts. IPA never tasted so good. |
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