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Hiking | 13.00 Miles |
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| Hiking | 13.00 Miles | 2 Days | | |
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| no partners | | A Trail So Rough That Even Freud Would Slip
It was early afternoon. A gray whale with seven eager hikers in its belly bumped over a road more suited to camel and jackass travel. The 4x4 crew-cab long-bed ¾ ton Dodge diesel carried these humans who had experienced psychological damage from years of city living back into the wilderness of their ancestors. They were seeking the beauty of nature and some relief from the pressures of cell phones and urban confusion. They were ready to backpack.
The trek was to begin at the historic Rainbow Lodge ruins and end with a ride across the earth's only monument valley on water. In 1909, John Wetherill led a couple ego maniacs across the deep canyons leading to the 300 foot high Rainbow Bridge. Immediately after this official discovery,, Americans with more money than brains wanted to see the newly publicized natural wonder. Nealy 100 years ago, the Richardsons, a family of Navajo traders, built Rainbow Lodge and forged a trail to the bridge for use by paying customers. Rainbow lodge, later owned by Barry Goldwater, was closed and burned to the ground over 50 years ago. The stone ruins remained on the southern flank of beautiful 10,388 foot elevation Navajo mountain and overlooked the deep finger maze canyons surrounding Cummings Mesa.
The first day, the crew that included Susan Richmond, Gary Johnson, Kathy Gindt, Roger Fournier, Lorna Peterson, Tim Blaser, and Ben Barstad made tracks for three miles while watching shadows of the late day sun move across red sandstone monuments. Tim turned back so he could make it to pavement with the Dodge whale before darkness left him lost in the reservation wilderness. He drove to Page and, as the shuttle driver, would meet the hikers at Wahweap two days later. The remaining six trekkers would camp at the first somewhat level spot they could find. Ben stretched out on a slab to enjoy a few minutes of comfort while a leaky air mattress deflated. Gary also slept in the open. The tent occupiers left the rain flies off so the beauty of deep space, only visible with the human eye where clear air and natural darkness prevailed, could be enjoyed by all. Lorna was able to watch a falling star shoot to earth.
This adventure was, as it should have been, not easy. The trail had deteriorated over the last 50 years and was covered with large and small rocks. Susan was shocked that it was not all downhill to the bridge destination. Wildlife was rare. Lizards were often seen and our lizardologist, Gary, was able to identify a rare Yellow Headed Collared Puff-Necked Lizard. and a Septicannus Brown Lizard. Everyone was impressed. Roger was excited. The Navajo Nation had given the crew a one page map that covered the entire area on an 8 ½ by 11 inch paper. "It ain't that long a trial." Roger told the crew. Roger loved his short trail map. Kathy attracted insects. Therefore, she wore a bee keepers hat through the entire backpack. Lorna ran into every thorny plant the desert had to offer. She was soon referred to as Thorna. Ben tried a shortcut off the mountain. Fortunately his tumble stopped about eight feet down. Gary, with his EMT training, plugged Ben's leaky skin so the two mile trip down the 1500 foot talus decline could continue. While Ben was hanging onto a rock over the edge, Lorna informed him, "Ben, that is not the trail." Ben had already reached that conclusion by himself.
Redbud Pass had been blasted by the Richardsons so jackasses, as pack animals, could ninety years ago, carry the goodies of those who were too lazy to do it themselves. The pass had become worse over the passing decades. Fantastic to look at, with high narrow walls of Navajo Sandstone decorated over the thousands of years with desert varnish, the pass was a true challenge. Once the crawling and scrambling had taken the trekkers to the top and back down the other side, Gary officially renamed it Red Butt Pass. He considered, but rejected, the name Sore Butt Pass.
Shortly before the water supply was exhausted, pools of water for filtering were located in Cliff Canyon. The last miles of the hike were fortunately less torturous for the tired travelers. When approaching Echo Camp, the hikers saw their first additional human figure. "He looks like Doctor Seuss." Thorna laughed. It turned out to just be some cat in a hat. Tim had bounced his jet ski 51 miles to Rainbow Bridge so he could also check out deep space and hear stories of near death experiences. Knowing that his clean rested persona could cause resentment on the part of this collection of bruised, limping, and stinking wilderness travelers, Tim had brought an offering. His small cooler of cold beer and soda pop made him seem godlike to all. Roger was captured, on film, in a position of worship to the cooler.
The last day, Gary was able to identify a short-tailed Carp. Then, the tour boat arrived and allowed the crew to relax and watch the wonders of Lake Powell pass by. The last night was spent at Camp Grandview, where everyone was able to shower, use facilities of civilization, and eat great tasting Mexican food someone else had prepared. The backpacking experience had prepared everyone to face the less natural civilized world again.
When all the façade of civilization was removed, individual psychology, both normal and abnormal, was displayed. It had also become possible to make some observations of hiker mental state and develop reasonable speculations.
Susan never stopped walking. She kept mumbling, "Keep on ticking." Did she possess a secret desire to become a Timex watch or Energizer Bunny? Tim had a great new many mega-pixel camera. Why did he try to take pictures under water. Did he possess some psychological need to test the warranty process? Did Roger suffer from cold beer fantasies? Was Kathy so altruistic that she intentionally attracted insects away from others? Ben took twelve great pictures. Then he put film in his camera. Did he suffer from digital camera envy? Lorna really wanted to find some less weighty dehydrated water for her next backpacking adventure. Was she absent from science class that day? And finally, Gary Johnson, when describing a Jackass Canyon hike, would slip and call it Johnson Canyon. His eyes also twinkled when he identified creatures. Was he afflicted with pumpkinosis?
Lumpy and limping, the crew returned to the greater Phoenix area with smiles. They had seen views reserved for those willing to get out and be there They also knew they could make the trip and were even willing to face new adventures. It was a great trip.. |
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