Looking for spectacular views - 2.5 day hike in AZ, mid May

[SeekingLost]

Going to fly into Phoenix next weekend and I'm looking to pack in the most spectacular views possible on a weekend hike. Plane lands around 5:30pm on a Friday and looking to drive to my destination that night. Sleep in the car, at the trailhead or hike a short distance on the trail and camp. Plane leave at 2:15pm on a Monday, so a couple hours of hiking Monday morning is fine. Up to 15 miles a day is fine. Maybe 25-30 miles max for this hike. Looking for a place where the temps will be no more than 80 during the day, although less than 70 is greatly preferred. I always strive for remoteness but that's probably tougher to do on such a "short" hike. I prefer wilderness areas due to the ease of logistics (typically, no permits needed, just park n hike). I'm an experienced backpacker and comfortable with off trial hiking, class 3 scrambling, water crossings etc. My goal is to pack in as much adventure and amazing views as possible.

This will be my 4th trip to Arizona in the last 4 years. I've hiked in the Supes 3 times, and Sedona once. I do NOT want to go back to Sedona. It's beautiful but I just cannot get past the insane number of people out there. Was there on a Wednesday in March, at 10am, and couldn't find a place to park at any trailhead that had a paved road leading up to it. No desire to do that again.

The Grand Canyon is about as far as I'm willing to drive. I've never been and really want to, but want to go when I have more time. I have no desire to camp in the NP campground and do dayhikes though, which would mean I need a permit (lottery drawing) to camp in the canyon, right? If that's the case then GC is probably not an option for me right now. Really though I'd rather be a little closer to Phoenix. After all, I only have so much time and to spend 6-7 hours in the car would just mean less time hiking somewhere.

I've done some preliminary research and so far I'm "considering" the Four Peaks (maybe climb Brown's peak), Mazatzal (what are the best trails, loops, landmarks here?), Sycamore Canyon (yeah I's kinda close to Sedona but I've read there's no crowds).I don't want to do an out and back, looking for a loop. I'll make my own route as well if need be, I just need to find the right area. So that's where I'm at. Suggestions?

[JoelHazelton]

Some of my favorite views in the state are in the Sierra Ancha.

http://hikearizona.com/decoder.php?ZTN=944
http://hikearizona.com/decoder.php?ZTN=917
http://hikearizona.com/decoder.php?ZTN=889
http://hikearizona.com/decoder.php?ZTN=1279

If you start at the Reynolds Creek Trailhead, you can put together some really great routes that are full of incredible views off the east edge of the Sierra Ancha. And there aren't that many people on those trails.

[Grasshopper]

Some of my favorite views in the state are in the Sierra Ancha.

Agreed and this one is my favorite and you can spend one overnight with a perennial spring seep- Edward Spring (but I wouldn't plan to use a Sawyer Squeeze filter water bag setup at Edward Spring Seep)--> http://hikearizona.com/decoder.php?ZTN=15363

As JoelHazelton recommends, for a longer, more scenic day hike in, you could plan to start this one at the Reynolds Creek Trail 150 TH/Park http://hikearizona.com/decoder.php?ZTN=716 (also see soon to be posted HAZ- Oregon_Hiker 5/2/16 triplog and photo set for this Pueblo Canyon Overlook hike.. going in from the Murphy Ranch Trail 141 TH/Park)

[SeekingLost]

Thanks for the suggestion, looks like some good options there. How are the roads to the trailheads there? I'll be in a rental, something like a Chevy Spark or some tiny little economy car.

[Grasshopper]

How are the roads to the trailheads there? I'll be in a rental, something like a Chevy Spark or some tiny little economy car.

Access to THs, mostly "high clearance possible when dry" (will it be all dry.. I don't know) but would recommend you rent something with a little more clearance (intermediate-mid size) and hopefully better quality tires. You want to get away from the masses, this is one of those places to be but you need to do it via driving with a little more safety/security ;)

Also, if you do decide to enter the wilderness via the Reynold's Creek Trail 150, you should probably be aware of this recent triplog attempt http://hikearizona.com/trip=130954 and just be prepared for some bushwhacking/downed trees/route finding issues.. short pants not recommended hiking in these areas.

[SeekingLost]

Looks like the Reynolds Creek TH is accessible by car, so that's my best bet for the Sierra Ancha. Also looks like there's a lot of trees up there on the rim, I take it no problem for hanging a hammock? I can always bring my tent if there's any doubt, but would much rather sleep in the hammock.

Any other suggestions? Going to try and put together a route sometime today.

[JoelHazelton]

If your looking for accessibility, both the Parker Creek TH and the McFadden Horse TH are basically right off the highway. This track follows the entire eastern rim, and the northern end is McFadden Horse and southern end Parker Creek: http://hikearizona.com/map.php?MY=20567&M=6.

Trees will be no problem at all. There are some burn areas, but you'll always be able to find pockets of trees for camp.

[azbackpackr]

Grand Canyon permits are not done via a "lottery" drawing, unless you're talking about river rafting permits. If you choose wisely and also give them flexibility of dates, and stay away from the busiest trails, you can get permits. There are also walk-up permits available every day. I could drive there today and get a permit for hundreds of locations. The thing is, what you're hearing is that people have trouble getting permits for the busier areas. Most of them don't even know there are other areas available, even though Grand Canyon is almost 300 miles long. They all flock like lemmings to Bright Angel Trail.

However it is quickly becoming too hot in the bottom of the Canyon for comfortable hiking, especially since you specified cooler temperatures. October through April, but especially fall and spring months are best. Winter is okay but chilly.

[Grasshopper]

Any other suggestions?

You will need to plan to carry more daily/nightly water for a couple days of extended miles backpack hiking on these suggested Sierra Ancha upper plateau/rim areas. There are not a lot of reliable, perennial spring sources on the upper plateau rim areas but there are a few--> Edward Spring seep http://hikearizona.com/dexcoder.php?PID=601256 - Cienega Spring http://hikearizona.com/dexcoder.php?PID=590165 + a few possibly along the Rim Trail 139 (see the HAZ topo maps)

Have an enjoyable and safe trip and please HAZ post after.

[SeekingLost]

To be honest, I almost always hike in wilderness areas due to the ease of logistics, and I'm not really up on national park rules and regs. I'm planning this last minute and just figured trying to obtain permits would be too much of a pain. However, I noticed the Sierra Anchas are basically the same drive time from Phoenix as the south rim GC. I see a lot of cool areas in the Sierra Anchas but I'm not seeing a loop that jumps out at me yet. With that said, I'm open to the GC as long as I can get a permit. With the amount of time I have to work with, I'd rather skirt the top of the rim and make some sort of loop up top than dip down into the canyon anyways. Any places in GC that would work for me?

[te_wa]

i just got back from an overnight at Madera canyon, taking the super trail and old badly trail like a figure 8 loop with a summit of Wrightson. camped at josephine saddle. it was windy as hell!
that's some fine mountain hiking right there, close to tucson so you'll get the tourist/UofA crowd but beyond that, it was remarkable.
and tiny rental car friendly. paved the whole way. on your way back to PHX, stop by Dragoon brewing on grant and the I-10 and pick up a four pack of some really good (probably 2nd best in the state, behind Dubina) IPA. you can thank me later.

[SeekingLost]

Well I spent the afternoon putting this together in the Sierra Anchas:

http://caltopo.com/m/f8qb

Park at Parker Creek TH. Camp at Edwards Spring night one. Camp near Zimmerman Point night 2. Down FR 489/Pocket Creek to 288, back to my car at Parker Creek TH. Should be around 25 miles. Looks like it will be pretty awesome. Thanks for the help and info.

[ljcygnet]

For an experienced backpacker wanting a two day hike, away from people?

Chevelon Canyon -- from the crossing south, following the creek.

Drive time is +4-5 hours from Sky Harbor.

It's bushwacking and scrambling and creek crossing and route finding. Lots of water. The creek bottom starts out dry, but there will be water -- tons of water -- shortly after leaving the campgrounds at the crossing. TONS of wildlife, including stuff seldom seen in Arizona, like beaver and bear and an amazing number of birds of prey. Lush vegetation. More crawdads than you've likely ever seen in your life. Huge small-lake-sized swimming holes.

Not a hike I recommend to beginners. It's remote (you may wish to rent a sat phone as there is NO cell service, not even up n the ridges) and rough and did I mention bushwhacking? But if you know what you're doing, it's one of my favorites, and a really special place.

Did I mention bushwhacking? LOL. (I wear heavy denim on this one. It's the only way I've found to deal with the blackberries and canyon roses, which grow in extreme abundance.)

[Grasshopper]

Well I spent the afternoon putting this together in the Sierra Anchas:
http://caltopo.com/m/f8qb

I believe some of us (me for sure) that recommended this AZ scenic, rugged, & remote Sierra Ancha Wilderness area to meet your 2nt/3day (first visit) backpack needs, just assumed that you would be hiking established trails and/or roads in this upper rim wilderness plateau area. "Off-trail" backpack hiking in most of the entire area of your now planned 2nt/3day route will be, in my opinion, not doable in 2nts/3days. I now see that some other HAZers like your plan

In YR2000 a large portion of this area endured a catastrophic 10,000 acre wildfire- The Coon Creek Fire. Off-trail in this upper areas is choked with numerous burnt downfall trees + serious overgrowth that now blocks off-trail routes though, thus one important reason for staying on established trails & on-roads. Also, this interesting, but truly deadly "thorn bush/tree", The New Mexico Locust http://hikearizona.com/dexcoder.php?PID=1518 (with presently no leaves nor flowers.. only thorns) will alone impede your off-trail progress in many areas. Numerous stands of our very difficult to bushwhack through Manzanita Bush http://hikearizona.com/dexcoder.php?PID=1625 (another blood sucker) is also present on many off-trail sections you plan to hike.

[Oregon_Hiker]

Regarding your posted loop route in the Sierra Ancha, I'll add my thoughts to what Grasshopper said.
1. The off trail section of your hike down to Edwards Spring appears to go through very dense New Mexico Locust patches with a lot of downed trees for almost a mile after you pass the north end of Murphy Ranch. (based on looking at Google Earth) Google Earth images from the winter months can be deceiving because the NM Locust looses it leaves and look like open brown patches on GE. Look at these areas using GE images from summer months and you will see a dense green patch of bushes.

2. The off trail section on day 2 from the Parker Creek Trail to Zimmerman Pt requires busting through some dense manzanita thickets along the top of the ridge as experienced on this hike to Grantham Peak.
http://hikearizona.com...
Joe and JJ make light of the manzanita they encountered but I've been along part of this ridge and it's manzanita hell. Your planned Camp Night 2 is in the middle of this manzanita hell.

3. Drinking water will not be available over long stretches. On Day 2 and 3 you quite likely will not find water after leaving the upper end of Cold Spring Canyon until you reach Pocket Spring on FR489 connecting to 288 on your way down from Zimmerman point. You might want to cache water on the Parker Creek trail on Day 1 near where you plan to go off trail on Day 2.

Fortunately you have a bail out option if your running out of time on day 2 by skipping the off trail section to Zimmerman Point and returning on the Parker Creek Trail.

[SeekingLost]

Grasshopper and Oregon_hiker, thanks for the info. The two sections of off trail hiking on day one between Aztec Mtn and Edwards Spring, I could always just use the 4wd road and trail head downhill from Murphy TH if need be. I looked at that section on satellite and as you said, it looks fairly bare. I even routed that part to go over the completely bare areas on the satellite. If it's too thick when I get out in the field I'll have another option. Not too worried about that section.

Day 2 is more of a worry. The ridge leading to Zimmerman also seemed like it was passable from satellite though. But, you said it's manzanitas, not thorn bushes, right? I do a lot off off trail hiking and willing to accept some hell for the rewards. A hiker passed me in the supes a few years ago on a 7 day trek and said I had earned my "Arizona pinstipes", referring to all the cuts I had on my arms from wading through thorn bushes.

The camp spot I picked on Day 2 is very approximate, it's going to be a matter of selecting a spot when I get up there. I'll be in a hammock so I just need two sturdy trees. From satellite and other people's photos it looks like the hammock will be completely feasible with some hunting around for the right spot.

Water - As long as I can fill up at either Edwards or Cold Spring Canyon I'll be fine. I'll just filter what I need for the rest of the trip right there, I have no problem carrying 6 or 7 liters for the rest of the hike. I thought about caching too at the top of South Fork, but if I can get water at either of the two above springs then I probably won't bother.

[Oregon_Hiker]

Your plan sounds good with the mention of your bail out alternative using the road from Aztec peak to Murphy TH. Also, the off trail section you show from the road switch back on the backside of Aztec Peak following the ridge out towards Murphy Peak should be easy going. I've hiked this route recently across the saddle below the road to the top of the ridge and it's fairly open with some maneuvering around some low cliffs. The drop down off of Murphy Peak to the Reynolds Creek Trail #150 may be a little challenging (I've never been there so don't know) but once you get to Reynolds Creek Trail you have another alternative to bypassing your off-trail section to Edward Spring. Just follow Reynolds Creek Trail around Murphy Ranch to the Murphy Ranch TH.

Regarding hiking through manzanita. Often you can find a break between bushes where you can just push aside the branches to make an opening. This is especially the case where large animals such as elk or cows have frequented. I don't think there has been active cattle grazing in that area in a few years but we found the manzanita to be manageable in off trail wanders out to view points along Pueblo, Cold Spring and Devils Chasm on hikes there April 28-May 2. However It does slow you down considerably.

Regarding the water. We noticed that the water at the Cold Spring Canyon crossing was clearer with less junk floating in it than at Edward Spring when we were there on May 2.

[SeekingLost]

@Oregon_Hiker
Thanks for the additional info. I remember reading about the water being a little more clear at Cold Canyon Spring vs Edward Spring. That must have been your report. Well I think I have everything covered then. All I have to do is get through the rest of this week... Getting excited!

[SeekingLost]

One last question, for those of you who have been up to both Asbestos Point and Zimmerman Point(Grasshopper, Oregon_hiker, Cannondalekid), etc. Taking into account the views from each, with sunrise and sunset photography in mind, which would you camp at? I'm leaning towards Asbestos right now. Which would you choose, based on views and photography potential?

[Oregon_Hiker]

@MetalBackpacker
I would go with Zimmerman for getting both the best sunset and sunrise views at on location. Zimmerman is higher than Asbestos point and partially blocks the view of the eastern horizon from Asbestos point.