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| Hiking | 21.40 Miles |
6,700 AEG |
| | Hiking | 21.40 Miles | 10 Hrs 45 Mns | | 2.49 mph |
| 6,700 ft AEG | 2 Hrs 10 Mns Break | | | |
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| partners | | Nearly too much to say about this day... and from so many potential perspectives.
The scenery was exceptional, and it would take numerous visits to even begin to fully take in all that is there over those few short miles, much less the extended side and connected trips that could be added. We caught a great weather day, immediatly following a socked in, stormy day, clearly visible on Friday as we checked in at the Ranger Station for our permit. That evening the storm on the mountain suggested lots of trudging through fog and rain... but, when we got up at 2am the sky was crystal clear. A nice start. We were up to the portal and on the trail at 3:30AM... a compromised decision. It was a full moon night and we noted that a number of the hikers were heading up early, taking advantage of the moonlight and planning to be on top for the sunrise. Nice idea, but our original plan was for a later start. It sounded as if 12 hours were a typical loop time, and we did not want to spend too much of that in the dark, but in the end we opted for a bit earlier; it worked out well.
The moonlight was enough to move on the trail, at least until we were high enough that the ridge blocked out the direct light, but that was short lived; the sunrise covered us after about three hours into the hike, up into the lakes and camping area. Oddly enough, most of the multi-day hikers were still milling around their tents or just taking off up the trail. I guess they had the acclimazation advantage of being up there, but their ascent day was not looking to start out very early. It may be that they only had to hit the peak and then return to their camp... exiting the following day?
We caught and passed a number of hikers, noting that to a person they all were using hiking poles. Now, this trailway is the nicest trail I've ever hiked. I could not see that poles offerred any help or advantage unless you already had bad knees and were trying to offset some of the stress. Most of the ascents were either smooth slope or steps nicely built into the rock face. It really appeared that the hikers were making more work for themselves with the use of the poles.
As we crossed the ridge (13,600') and crossed over to begin the final 900' to the summit we began to encounter droves of backpackers who had abandoned their packs and trekked up light, now coming back down. As we inquired of each what their peak experience was like we got only one word responses: "cold".... again and again, from very blank faces, sort of death march stares and that single word: "COLD!"... I finally quit asking.
On top we were lucky enough to encounter a few groups with a bit more optimistic outlooks, though the main thought for them too was the cold, biting wind. One couple were completing their fifth ascent and commented that their last time up the issue was sunburn while lying out on the rocks... but today the lady sat huddled against the wall of the hut, shivering uncontrolably. Still smiling, but clearly very cold. Another couple joined us, the woman commenting that she had on all nine pieces of her clothing... four layers!... and she was still cold! But, she was in great humor, and welcomed the little bottle of champagne I let her pose with for their victory picture on the peak.
Susan and I were the only hikers on the peak wearing shorts... in fact everyone else was in full alpine winter gear and wishing they had artic gear. I felt fine in the shorts and polypro shirt. Susan disappeared into the hut and after about 30 minutes it occurred to me to quit drinking the wine and check on her. Inside the hut, out of the sun, was like a big icebox and she was inside struggling to get her zipper to work on her leg sections to her shorts, and in the process going into a mild full body chill. We got her out of the hut and back into the sun, leggings on then into my parka and wrapped around with the dark colored pancho to begin to warm her back up. It was cold up there... my hands were pretty much uselessly numb, but it was also full sun. I find it really hard to worry much about temps when standing in clear weather.
A pleasant hour passed on the peak and then we began the trek down the hill. More of that great vista... exceptional no matter which way you gazed.
The walk up, stopping for numerous pictures and a few food breaks took five hours and forty minutes. The walk down with breaks took around four hours. I have to say it appeared that the more smiling faces came from the day trekkers rather than the multi-day hikers. The people who had been out for days had a clearly tired and worn look to them (for the most part... there were some exceptions). If/when I go again I will likely do a single day effort, but I will spread it out, staying on the hill many more hours, taking in the sites and talking to more of the hikers. It was interesting to hear their stories. One guy drove over days early, then camped at 10,000' for a few days to begin to adjust to the elevation. He then hiked to 11,000'+ and camped... then finally did the climb to the peak. Effectively, he spent three or four days immediately before his hike preparing for the ascent to the peak.
Susan and I did a bit of the opposite. We went hiking the day before over in Death Valley, hitting the 283' below sea level point!
I did appreciate all of the training I'd done in New Mexico, but noted that Susan's training in Tucson was just as effective. Her's was mostly running and I have to think that her more demanding cardio efforts were the better approach... either way, to really enjoy the trail it makes sense to put in the miles and efforts to be ready. We saw a lot of hikers sufferring their way up the trail... perhaps it will be a more memorable day for them, but maybe not for all the right reasons.
That is a really great burger at the Portal store!!
Great trail... great hike. |
| _____________________
| Ageless Mind... Timeless Body... No Way! Use It and Lose It. Just the way it is... |
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