username
X
password
register
for free!
help
ArticlesGuidesRoutes
 
Photosets
 
 Comments
triplogs   photosets   labels comments more
The Belly River Trail - 3 members in 6 triplogs have rated this an average 4.3 ( 1 to 5 best )
6 triplogs
login for filter options
Jul 09 2023
avatar

 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
The Belly River TrailNorth Central, MT
North Central, MT
Hiking avatar Jul 09 2023
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Hiking6.92 Miles 959 AEG
Hiking6.92 Miles   4 Hrs   9 Mns   2.03 mph
959 ft AEG      44 Mns Break
 
Linked   none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
July 7 - I drove from Idaho Falls to Helena MT via Butte MT and stayed the nite at an old Howard Johnson's. The drive was beautiful as usual as I made my way north through Idaho and into Montana. It seemed quite green to me. I think I forgot to mention how much snow there was in the mountains around Salt Lake City. The grasshoppers were fierce for most of my drive north. And as I stated in my ID Falls trip report, I got my lunch at the Dillon MT Safeway, including a Poke Bowl that I would eat in Helena. I stopped at my usual Rest Area just this side of Butte. There was some nice wildflowers and of course the views toward the Humbug Spires and Fleecer Mountain are really nice. I picked up fuel at Helena's Costco which wasn't too far away. What I thot was interesting is they set up 3 stations for window washing.

July 8 - I started a little later from Helena for my drive to Glacier Park which included a stop at Starbucks for a giant iced latte. The only problem with this is there aren't many places to stop once you leave the freeway to use the facilities. I finally found a full service gas station/restaurant/grocery store in Choteau, whew! And of course, the search for Huck It began, but none here. Looks like they planted some canola fields this year so it's always fun to see. The views were clear too, so that was nice as I parallelled the Rocky Mountain front to my west. As I was driving, I also really noticed how steep the hills are as you go in and out of giant valleys in this part of Montana.

I fueled up at Browning so that I would have enough for running around Glacier Park. Also, I wiped down the windshield and front of Tonto3 which was starting to smell like dead grasshoppers :lol:. I took the drive on Duck Lake Rd 464, a drive I always enjoy and today was no exception. This is the best road to take if you're going to Many Glacier.

I arrived at the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn where I waited for about 20 minutes for everyone else to arrive including Deborah (from Big Arm MT - my former classmate), Tina (from Calgary, glacier chatter), Jen and Maia (flew into Calgary the nite before from Chicago, also glacier chatters) as we were all staying here for the nite since the Campground was closed to soft-camping because of bear activity. That bear would eventually be euthanized. While I was waiting though, I went on my Huck It hunt at the Swiftcurrent store and scored two six-packs :D .

We got settled in our rooms and then headed for the Cattle Baron Supper Club where we met up with Jay (from MN, glacier chatter) who would be going with us and his wife, who was staying at a campground in Canada in their travel trailer. We had a great steak dinner, altho I cut up most of mine to take with me. It is a HUGE piece of beef that would actually take me 4 sittings to finish. It was so good, even cold.

Back at the rooms we finished packing our packs. We all had heavy packs and I started stressing about the weight and with my mental state, I was very worried. I've done a 5-nite backpack (2019) here before and managed just fine but I think this pack was a couple pounds heavier. My tech gear was very heavy. My pack wasn't really bulging or anything. We had breakfast at a restauarant in Babb before our drive to the Chief Customs border and Trailhead. Deborah ended up at the other border crossing that's about 20 minutes away so we had to wait for her, but no big deal.


THE HIKE: Well it didn't go well. I can't do a 42 pound pack (could have been heavier as I don't know for sure). The first part of the hike is in the shade below the very tall trees with tall thimbleberry bushes on each side of the trail. I do enjoy this part but everyone was off to the races so I was already behind a lot further than I like. I hiked down the hill and into the meadows trying to get comfortable with all this weight but it just wasn't happening.

At one of the bridge crossings there were 3 female rangers trying to get some signage up for stock not to use the bridge as some planks were loose. It was a small bridge but enough for a horse to put its foot through. I have noticed the last couple years that there are many more female rangers, good for them!

I gave thot to going to GAB and then hiking back out the next morning. But Tina came back to check on me and we took a break where the Belly River is right next to the trail and that's when I called it. The rest of the group had gone ahead, way ahead; so I felt bad for Tina trying to catch them. We hugged. We all knew I might not make it.

However, getting back up that hill with this heavy pack almost did me in :( . I'll spare you the details as it was sad and pathetic, but I made it.  I had hit the ground a couple times, on purpose. I was coming up with different ideas as to how to get out of there including emptying part of my pack and hiking up the 1.5 miles and then come back for the rest of my stuff. Thank God for the little bit of rain that got me off the ground, literally. I was glad to finally reach the forest as the grade moderates somewhat.  There was also some shade to keep me moving, granted slowly.

I was thirsty (as I didn't have that much water) and tired, but on the way up figured I would try and get a cabin at the KOA. Needless to say, I did a lot of talking to myself to get up that mountain. Thankfully I had the rest of the day. It was just so hard taking the heavy pack off and keeping track of the bear spray and then putting it back on and the bear spray plus a piece of foam I had to use between me and the bottom right side of my pack.

Luckily the KOA had a cabin available; not sure about tomorrow nite. I grabbed some Huckleberry ice cream :) and then drove to the St Mary VC so I could get the schedule for the ranger guided hikes. I returned to the KOA to see if they had some HuckIt beer and they did, BUT, it's no sale alcohol weekend at the Reservation. I whined and said I had a hard hike and was looking forward to a cold Huck It as I had two 6 packs in the car, but they were warm. Well the KOA gal saw my distress and let me exchange mine for their cold 6 pack, how awesome is that!!! I went to the cabin and drank my beer and ate some steak while listening to the birds. It took it awhile to cool off as it was a hot day in the park which I'm sure added to my distress on the way down that mountain.

I clearly made the right decision as I would have been pretty miserable for a good part of that backpack trip, plus it rained a few times. Tina ended up blowing out her boots and lost a couple toe nails along the way. She commented to Deborah that I would not have been happy on a few days of this. My desire is bigger than my abilities. So I tucked my tail, hung out at the KOA, did a ranger-guided hike, planned on two but the weather precluded the second one, and went to the ranch a couple days early.


Drive from Idaho Falls to Glacier Park [ youtube video ]
around Many Glacier [ youtube video ]
Drive to Belly River, hike and St Mary KOA [ youtube video ]
 Fauna
 Fauna [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Black Bear
 Named place
 Named place [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Grinnell Point  Swiftcurrent Lake
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Light
Paintbrush, Lupine, Angelica, Coralroot, Sticky and Richardson's Geranium, Cow Parsnip
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
 
Jul 22 2022
avatar

 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
Cosley Lake to Chief Customs Trailhead, MT 
Cosley Lake to Chief Customs Trailhead, MT
 
Backpack avatar Jul 22 2022
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Backpack9.32 Miles 1,316 AEG
Backpack9.32 Miles   5 Hrs   29 Mns   1.84 mph
1,316 ft AEG
 
Partners partners
desertgirl
Written on Oct 18th.  Sadly, we have to hike out of here and it will be the hardest/longest day of our backpack trip.  We woke up to a fabulous morning and just before leaving our campsite, we checked out our beach only to be delayed due to loons and the sunrise lighting up Cathedral Mountain and all its waterfalls!  After fifteen minutes of soaking it all in, we finished gearing up and headed on out.

So off we went east on the Stoney Indian Trail. We would be lucky to have overcast skies.  After a little while I realized my water bladder was leaking and after some adjustments, we continued on.  I had not been hiking well the last few days so I hoped today wouldn't be a disaster for me considering what lay ahead.  The wildflowers were a constant distraction.  This is a lovely hike in and out of the forest with occasional views of the grandeur of the mountains all around us.  It was very green today; especially with the overcast sky.  We passed by the junction with Cosley Cut-off and saw that the closure sign for the Elizabeth Lake Foot bear alert was still up.  I seem to recall we ran into a lady ranger who said she would be spending the nite at the camp to see if the troublesome bear was still lingering.  Not sure I would like that part of the job :scared: .

Many times the trail was lined with wildflowers on both sides :y: .  It's such a beautiful site but kind of hard to photograph.  Surprisingly, I didn't take any videos or the videos didn't load up as I was starting to have trouble with my Ultra 20.  So the videos I made are slideshows but still reflect the beauty of the hike despite the flat skies.  An hour and a half later we arrived at the swinging bridge above the Belly River and passed by Gable Campground without stopping as everyone wanted to keep moving.  The wildflowers are quite intense in this area. The Belly River Trail has lots to offer, thus 5 stars, altho I would like to dock it one for the elevation gain of the last two miles.

For the rest of the hike we would start encountering other backpackers and we stopped and talked to a couple of guys about backpacking the area since they were new to Glacier Park.  A little later a different lady ranger was riding one of the horses from the Belly River Ranger Station that we had visited with a couple nites before.  She was leading the mule and the other horse.  FYI, there is no road to the Belly River Ranger Station nor has there ever been one.

Once again we passed in and out of the meadows and into patches of aspen and/or fir trees.  We would occasionally have to glance back toward the south and west.  We were lucky to get to see the full blown Mountain Hollyhock plants :) near the Belly River as we continued our trek.  The wildflowers continued to dazzle, including with some new ones we hadn't seen yet.  We took a break by the same tree where we stopped on the way down as it's really about the only clear spot during this part of the hike to the border.  My back end was still damp from the leaking water bladder but now I think I had drunk enough water out of it so it quit leaking.  And actually, the dampness kept me somewhat cool.

It seems like it takes forever to get to the tall forest part of this hike.  I kept thinking I needed to stop and take a quick break but I just kept pushing.  Deborah and Ambika had hiked ahead so I didn't even see them in the last mile.  Tina was ahead as well but I could see her from time to time.  Once we got to the wider path and the taller trees, I was good to go.  And when I finally made it to the top Ambika wanted me to do a "wendy"... let's put it this way, it sure wasn't the prettiest "wendy" I've ever thrown.  I did better on this hike than I thot I might do, so I was glad of that.

We de-geared and Tina headed to East Glacier as she had to pick up some other glacierchatters and Deborah, Ambika and me headed for lunch at Johnson's in St Mary's.  The food is very good as it's mostly homemade.  We had a Huckleberry Creme Fizz which is a great treat altho I would have preferred some alcohol in it.  After, Deborah headed back to Big Arm, MT and we went to East Glacier.  We all had reservations at the same motel (Mountain Pine, second time I've stayed there).

I finally got to meet the infamous "Jen" of glacierchat.  I don't know how many peaks she's climbed :o in Glacier but as of 2014 it was 16 including the tallest, Cleveland.  We felt like we knew each other so well even though we haven't met.  She and her daughter from Chicago were there and also Matt, who I met in person last year.  So we grabbed a bottle of wine and headed out to the picnic table and talked until fairly late.... well until the wine was gone, ha!


Here are the two videos I made: 10-20-2022 GOOD NEWS! I knew I had taken movies and it came to me today that maybe they were on the SD card from the old phone and guess what, I found them. So I'll be re-making these movies and as of 10-25-2022, here they are and I think they're pretty good too!
Part 1  [ youtube video ] Stoney Indian Pass Trail
Part 2  [ youtube video ] including Belly River Bridge
Part 3 [ youtube video ] Belly River Trail
Part 4 [ youtube video ] Belly River Trail, East Glacier

I also fired up my watch for this one which was a good thing since when I transferred apps and data from my old phone, all the HAZ routes got wiped out. 9:01AM-2:32PM, 4666-5216 feet, 129 bpm/159 max. 31% in Zone 5 maximum, 40% in Zone 4 anaerobic, 22% in Zone 3 aerobic, 7% Zone 2 burning 2105 calories.
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Substantial
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
  4 archives
Jul 19 2022
avatar

 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
The Belly River TrailNorth Central, MT
North Central, MT
Backpack avatar Jul 19 2022
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Backpack6.25 Miles 492 AEG
Backpack6.25 Miles   4 Hrs   45 Mns   1.56 mph
492 ft AEG
 
Linked   linked  
Partners partners
desertgirl
Written two months later.  The day finally arrived.  Deborah was to meet us at 9:30, coming from Big Arm, to drive to the Canadian Border Chief Customs TH where we would meet Tina who was driving down from Calgary.  And believe it or not, it all worked out perfectly timed.  After introductions and a group photo, we started down the Belly River Trail through the dense Lodgepole forest and what I thought would be a relatively short and easy hike... well maybe not.  It was warmer than we anticipated and it took us a while to get our hiking legs and figure out the hiking order.  It was nice in the shade but that didn't last too long.  Nonetheless, it's nice to hike through the tall trees while being flanked by berryless :( Thimbleberrys on each side.  This area and for that matter, the whole hike, showed off the results from a moist winter, spring and summer.

Wildflowers would abound here and there that caused our brakes to go on; mostly for Ambika and me so it's a good thing we were at the back :lol: .  Tina and Deborah would end up getting a good lead on us several times; especially once we hit the meadows where the views open up as well.  It was warmer than we thot so I'm glad we didn't have to be in a hurry other than we wanted to get to camp to eat a late lunch.  There is a pond about a couple miles into the hike that always causes you to stop and observe.  I've never seen wildlife around it though.  Sentinel and Bear Mountain are to your west and provide a great backdrop for the flowered meadows.  The trail is a bit deep here so you have to be mindful of how you step as it's easy to get your feet tangled as it's also narrow.  

I wasn't feeling it today so I was dragging a bit.  I was disappointed in myself and sadly, I wouldn't do well the next couple days either. Ambika thot it might have to do with the new drug, Lipitor, that I was on so we'll go with that. However, next year I need to do some more serious hiking before this trip; I just didn't think it would be a problem as it certainly isn't a hard backpack!  Fortunately, I would rally for the last and hardest day. We took a break in the shade a little past the 3 mile mark.  There isn't much room to get off the trail for breaks through here and really no place while going through the meadows.  The meadows are separated by areas of trees and hills and a few times you get pretty close to the Belly River which has a beautiful color and a great view when looking west up the Mokowanis Valley.

We continued via the meadows that were loaded with lots of wildflowers in all sorts of glorious colors :) and a changing sky with some big clouds rolling around here and there.  And of course, there are those big old majestic mountains still with lots of snow.  It's like they are all teasing you to come closer, breathe deeper, take it all in.  We crossed a couple little drainage creeks full of water.  It was still a little muddy here and there as it had rained the previous day.  And finally, we see the sign for the campground.  Now it was a matter of getting a big enough space for four tents which we were lucky to find a very large space.  Of course, arriving there in the afternoon gave us a pretty good choice of spots.

We got set up and had lunch.  Our next goal was to figure out our water system.  Ambika brot a collapsible sink to gather the water, Tina brot the big bag, Deborah the Sawyer Squeeze and I had a CNOK so that we could filter a lot of water at a time.  And it is always entertaining to watch swinging the rope for the bear bags.  I worry about it wrapping as that's happened a couple times.  We both took a few times to get the job done.

A little after 7 we headed over to the Ranger Station to look around.  We all enjoyed this very much :y: as we just meandered around.  There were 2 horses and a mule in the pasture eating away and swatting their tails from all the bugs.  This was a buggy area.  We would see the horses and mule and ranger on their ride out on our last day.  There were a couple other backpackers hanging out at the Ranger Station porch.  The views were stunning and the light would shine occasionally on Gable Mountain... and if you've seen Gable Mountain, you know what a show that is!  And, of course, wildflowers everywhere.  What a great first day! even though I did terribly. 

 
Videos: Part 1  [ youtube video ] down the hill we go
Part 2  [ youtube video ] and by the pond and through the meadows
Part 3  [ youtube video ] more meadows and more mountains and the campsite
Part 4  [ youtube video ] Ranger Station Walkabout - it was fabulously beautiful.  I think you'll really enjoy this one!
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Extreme
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
 
Jul 07 2019
avatar

 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
The Belly River TrailNorth Central, MT
North Central, MT
Hiking avatar Jul 07 2019
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Hiking10.07 Miles 1,636 AEG
Hiking10.07 Miles   7 Hrs   11 Mns   1.72 mph
1,636 ft AEG   1 Hour   20 Mns Break
 
Linked   linked  
Partners none no partners
Glacier National Park Backpack, Day One of Six - after packing and re-packing food for our 5 nite backpack, alas, my huckleberry beer would not be able to make the trip for today :( . Oh that pack was heavy, what's two days more of food, ha! After having a mediocre breakfast at best at Nell's (Swiftcurrent Motor Inn) we took both our vehicles to the TH as Tina would head north to Calgary and I would head east to Chester after we got back. There were a few vehicles at the TH and another couple was just heading in. We would have around 9 1/2 miles today with a nice part of it downhill.

At around 8:45 we finally were ready to go with our heavy packs aboard. It had rained the night before so it was a humid start on a slightly muddy trail through the thimbleberry forest and the forest. And so the bear calls begin. Six days of bear calling. It seemed Tina did most of that as I don't like to yell out when I'm filming. I try to make up for it when I'm not. The good thing about this time of year is the berries aren't out yet so the bears are mostly doing ground foraging. We did see moose tracks that we seemed to follow for quite awhile.

Fortunately, the first mile or so of the trail is on a wide tread so you got a chance to get your sea legs. It was nice to be in the shade for the first part of this hike because once we got down to the meadows, the shade would be less. In amongst the thimbleberry was other flora like loads of Yellow Angelica and some Milkweed. Other flora was scattered about as well. It seems like it takes awhile to get down this two mile stretch until the views to Sentinel and Bear Mountains finally reveal themselves. Part way down Tina took a fall and while it isn't normally that big of deal she was recovering from stitches on her knee so it was already tender. Nothing broke open so she was good to go but it was a scary moment.

At around the 2 mile mark you start into the first meadow and pass by the beaver pond which is usually good for a photo or two. It didn't seem as pretty as I remembered it. You continue a little in the meadow and then thru a grove of trees, which you do off and on and into another meadow. The problem with a lot of the trail down here is it's a bit rutty and now mucky from all the water. So sometimes you had to step off the trail to avoid slipping on the mud.

We would encounter hikers from time to time now that were on their way out. Some of them had been quite ambitious so we felt a little silly about the 10 miles we were doing; altho we were doing 5 nites so had heavy backpacks. Most of the other folks were probably a couple decades less old than us. We did enjoy our quick visits with people from all over the country and the world. I should have thot to record their stories. (A couple of young girls had come over Boulder Pass from the NW side of the park. That's 57 miles in 3 days over two passes and you can't camp up there right now. Another set I think came from Red Gap Pass over nite so 26 miles in 2 days). Most hikers, at this point, were hoping they were a little closer to the TH then they were.

A little past the 2 3/4 mile mark you get a little closer to the Belly River for about the next 3/4 of a mile. We took a break about 3 1/2 miles in just off the trail or about 1/2 way to Gable Campground where we would have our lunch. We continued in and out of the meadows and both of us remarked how we didn't recall so much of the little ups and downs. Tina had hiked it last year when they did the whole Northern Traverse. I had last hiked this trail on 7/7/2013. What are the odds that I would hike it on the same day EXACTLY 6 years later :o? At about the 3.8 mile mark you hit one of the big meadows and it was loaded with flowers, all kinds, all sizes. It made a nice foreground to Sentinel and Bear Mountains in the background across the river. It definitely had that "hills are alive" feel to it.

At the 4.4 mile mark you hike closer to the river again. There were lots of little drainages coming off the side of the Lee Ridge and they were all running pretty full and fast which would be the case for most of our trip. And by now, those tall looming mountains were coming into view all around you. It is just awe-inspiring :worthy: . I guess it would be equivalent to seeing the Grand Canyon for the first time. We've seen it before but every time it's just breathtaking.

At exactly 6 miles we made the short detour into the permitted Gable Campground for our bathroom and lunch break at a little after 12:30. Gable is a big campground altho it's totally in the trees. After a pretty nice break we were off not knowing what was ahead of us as neither of us had been in the Belly River drainage. The clouds had rolled in again as we made our way around the cross-fenced Ranger Cabin area. In 2013 the flags were at half-mast in honor of the Granite Mountain Hotshots who had lost their lives. Today the flag was flying high and free.

As we rounded the corner a bunch of tall yellow flowers lined each side of the trail. I'm guessing they were Groundsel. I should have studied the flora before I arrived but I had a lot going on before the trip and just didn't even think to do that. Fortunately I would remember some of them though not necessarily correctly. I was glad Tina seemed to like learning about the flora as well. But now, it was back into the forest for most of the rest of our hike. Once again you are surrounded by thimbleberry but a new surprise was beautiful stalks of fluffy Beargrass on each side of the trail for very long stretches. It was incredible. Little did we know we would be hiking with this for many miles up and down the Belly River and Mokowanis Drainages. So very cool :y: . So, if you don't like Beargrass with nice poofy heads, don't be watchin' my videos :lol: .

The trail was a bit mucky here and there again as well and your views were pretty much limited. About the 7 3/4 mile mark you reach the single hiker planked bridge across the Belly River. It is still a little nerve-wracking to cross those bridges over such long expanses. Tina knocked it out in fine style. I tried to film while crossing; what was I thinking. Anyway, once you're across you are at a major intersection as if you go right, N you will be going to the Mokowanis area but if you go left, S you will be going to the Belly River area (Elizabeth and Helen) and on the Ptarmigan Trail. We would be coming back this way but today, we were headed to visit Joe Cosley's Elizabeth Lake (named after one of his girlfriends).

You hike above the Belly River with occasional views to Gable Mountain. It's a pretty mountain because even though a good part of it is bare, it is very colorful. You can hear the river below you as you continue toward Dawn Mist Falls. We had discussed not taking the detour to the Falls because of our heavy pack but by the time we got there, we opted to do it at the 8.35 mile mark. Well that was a good decision as it's easy trail and a little over a tenth off of the main trail. And needless to say, it was really gushing. We could actually hear it long before we got there. So we admired the Falls as they came in and out of the sunlight.

You head back up the trail and are soon back at them again at eye level. Here is the only place we a couple hikers got ahead of us. I think they ended up at Helen Lake. Well we were almost to Elizabeth now as this is the half-way point between the bridge and Elizabeth Lake Foot. A couple more times you get close to the river. It was running pretty high and fast from all the storms that keep passing through this past spring and now summer. We had a short sideways rain storm at the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn the previous evening. Less than a mile and 1/2 later we finally arrived at Elizabeth Lake. We placed our food in the storage box and then found a nice camp spot in the trees but with a slight view of the lake.

We headed back to the Food Prep area as it was Happy Hour time :) . Sadly the mosquitoes thought so too so they showed up in earnest. We had to get our bug nets and thank goodness we had them. I felt bad for those people who didn't as they apparently didn't do their Rx. One of the rangers at St Mary where we confirmed our permit said it was terrible and she wasn't kidding. You had to make sure your whole body was covered with something and also spray the bug spray heavily!!!

One of the Glacier Guides was there with a couple he had been guiding; it's his summer job and he's from Indiana. I'd say he was one of the older guides. He said this was one of his worst as the couple could hardly move (they were young) so it was a long haul down from Red Gap Pass where they had spent the nite at Poia Campground. Mind you, the guides carry all of the food and the stuff to make the food in. It was quite the operation he had. If it hadn't been so mosquitoey I would have filmed it. I think he was happy to be able to vent.

Next up was the ranger who had come to post signs that the Poia Campground was being closed due to bear activity. He let us know to pass along for folks that had reservations there that they could stay at the Ranger Station, a little over 3 miles away. There were a couple gals that came thru that ended up doing just that and fortunately they had a car at Chief TH. Earlier we would hear a dog when we were setting up camp but didn't know what quite to make of it as dogs are not allowed in the backcountry. The ranger had spoken to them and didn't seem happy about it at all. Well this couple came strolling in from their site and said it was a service dog. Ya right! They were very interesting to say the least. He was from Columbia. She was a part-time nanny and backpacked in-between.


Just a quick note, my camera gets knocked for shooting poorly in low light and sadly it didn't let me down in that regard. So some of the low light pics were a little out of focus. I need to remember that in the future.

from Chief TH toward Gable Campground: [ youtube video ]
last few miles toward Gable Campground thru the meadows: [ youtube video ]
from Gable toward Elizabeth Lake: [ youtube video ]
from almost the Belly River to Dawn Mist Falls: [ youtube video ]
Dawn Mist Falls to Elizabeth Lake: [ youtube video ]

By the way, Tina made a 6:30 video of our whole trip if you want a sneak preview of the whole backpacking trip in a nicely condensed version: [ youtube video ]
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Substantial
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
 
Jul 04 2017
avatar

 Guides 37
 Routes 556
 Photos 10,872
 Triplogs 1,052

43 male
 Joined Jan 21 2013
 AZ
The Belly River TrailNorth Central, MT
North Central, MT
Backpack avatar Jul 04 2017
FOTGTriplogs 1,052
Backpack65.87 Miles 9,182 AEG
Backpack65.87 Miles5 Days         
9,182 ft AEG
 
1st trip
This was my most ambitious undertaking while at Glacier National Park and the reason I chose to spend my summer in the northern Rockies. A big thanks to @tibber who spent a couple hours in Starbucks with me putting together the itinerary for this trip and teaching me the ins and outs of a permit system where first time success is rare.

The Belly River region is a lesser traveled area in the far northwest corner of the park. The trailhead for this park starts about 500 feet from the Canadian border. I spent a night at four separate lakes: Elizabeth, Helen, Mokowanis and Cosely and made two side trips up Red Gap and Stoney Indian Pass. The weather was generally great with no rain, but it was a little warm at times. There was no rhyme or reason to the bugs though, some lakes seemed to be devoid of them, while at others they were so bad I was compelled to retreat to my tent.

Day one was a very standard hike into the foot of Elizabeth Lake backcountry campground. The highlights of this day were the large meadows along the Belly River Trail, Dawn Mist Falls and Elizabeth Lake at twilight, although, it should be noted that twilight does not come until about 10 p.m. in Glacier this time of the year. The backcountry campground at the foot of Elizabeth was also superb and I would strongly recommend trying to reserve a site at the foot of the lake versus the head.

I started day two off by putting on my slack pack and heading up Red Gap Pass. The views from the pass were amazing and the portions of the trail above the treeline were unique and scenic. In particular, there were some great views of Helen and Elizabeth Lakes, as well as the glaciers that were feeding them. After my little nine mile side trip, I made the short 4.5 mile hike to my campsite at the desolate Helen Lake. The bugs nearly carried me away at Helen, but I shared the lake with some pretty cool Polish ladies via Wisconsin and slept very well at the remote lake.

I hiked to the foot of Elizabeth Lake with my camping neighbors and then began a long hike to Mokowanis Lake. I used the Cosley Cutoff to save some redundant mileage and took a nice break at Cosely Lake on the way to Mokowanis. This campsite ended up being my favorite of the five day trip, as I had the entire lake to myself. I also did a little exploring based on another backpacker's lead and found a pretty nice little off trail route to a nice set of falls and another lake. Although, I only went to the falls, as I was trying to play it a little safe, being solo and off trail. I ate well, swam a lot and slept great.

After a quick hike out to the Mokowanis River backcountry campground, I hung my gear and put on the slack pack for a quick trip up Stoney Indian Pass. This pass and the hike up proved to be the highlight of my backpack into the Belly River area and one of the highlights of my month in the northern Rockies. In fact, the scenery from the tiny but scenic Atsina Lake to the pass was perhaps some of the most scenic and awe inspiring trail I have hiked. The fireworks start at Atsina when the impressive twin falls Atsina and Paiota come into view along with another equally impressive one thundering down from the basin above them. The two fords at the top were running fast and were not dry crossings. The final push up to the pass highlighted by an unnamed lake, views of glaciers and distant waterfalls. After reaching the pass, the other side yielded even more treasure, highlighted by the brilliantly blue Stoney Indian Lake. I took a quick break here and returned to my gear for the five, or so mile hike to my campsite on Cosley Lake. This lake was certainly one of my favorites and very scenic with a great sites that included little private beaches and a very scenic spot to eat meals.

The final day was a quick 9.5 mile hike out, with the highlight undoubtedly being the Gros Ventre Falls. The rest of the hike was trail already covered and nothing overly eventful.

Its hard to identify favorite backpacks anymore these days, but this little trek certainly ranks somewhere near the top of my list and its beauty rivaled the Sierra Nevada, something I thought not possible. Its hard to articulate, but everything seemed a little more wild out there and I feel I encountered a level of wilderness that I have never encountered before. This backpack only marked about my halfway point at Glacier and much more would follow, however, this trip into the backcountry probably left me the most fulfilled and on so many different levels.
 Meteorology
 Meteorology [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Rainbow
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Light
_____________________
  1 archive
Jul 07 2013
avatar

 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
Belly River to Ranger Station GNPNorth Central, MT
North Central, MT
Hiking avatar Jul 07 2013
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Hiking12.75 Miles
Hiking12.75 Miles   7 Hrs   45 Mns   2.68 mph
   3 Hrs    Break
 
1st trip
Linked   linked  
Partners none no partners
Since I was on my own this year, I stuck with ranger-led hikes. This hike was first offered last year and I'm glad because it is an area I've wanted to see and WOW did it deliver. If you like BIG :o meadows with lots of flowers, a river running thru it, majestic mountains, along with a forest and a historic ranger station; this is obviously the hike for you.

You start in the forest for the first bit with a few seas of blooming thimbleberry plants at your side and occasional very tall cow parsnips. The elevation loss as you head down to the Valley is ever so slight but seemed longer than the mileage indicated. You eventually reach a bit of a clearing where you can just start to see the mountains in the distance.

You start gently switch-backing even further as you continue down and down but you notice the flowers more and more as you move out of the forested area. We are with a new ranger to GNP, the only one to be hired to GNP this year. He is a veteran medic with a huge pack. His name is Josh; he came from Alaska parks. We are hiking with two others originally from India but now living in Washington. Fortunately, he had a camera and liked to take photos. :)

I had done some Rx on the Belly River Trail and hadn't seen much on the WWW so I went into heavy movie mode; probably too much. But if you like virtual hiking, the four videos are the way to go. Before you know it we are at our first of many meadows and not just some break in the clearing; these are serious meadows the size of Two Dog Flats along the GTTSR. And not only are these meadows huge and the views stupendous, the flowers are everywhere. It was so hard to keep moving.

Most of the hike was in and out of meadows on the flats with numerous bridged water crossings. On this part of the hike to the Ranger Station, you really don't get to hike too much by the river which is probably a good and bad thing. Good because you keep moving and bad because you don't get to enjoy the sound and sight of this beautiful snow/glacier fed river with its intense turquoise color.

As we entered an aspen area we heard a woodpecker and Ranger Josh spotted him so I zoomed in for photos and movies. The other fellow didn't get any pictures cuz he couldn't get the right lens out in time :( . Having a high-end point and shoot better serves the purpose of getting fly-by pictures or fluttering wildlife when they scamper away so quickly. Along the way we would encounter backpackers coming back from their journey in the Belly River area. All were smiling. And of course, we would have a few backpackers pass us as they started their journey and they were smiling too. I was so jealous.

Unfortunately, the clouds had covered Chief Mountain to our east so we couldn't get any pictures that way... oh well, it wasn't like there weren't mountains everywhere else. What a wonderful hike this was. We approached the Ranger Station area where they have this cool fence along the trail to the station and along the trail for awhile as it continues in a southern direction toward the lakes and the mountains of Many Glacier.

The clouds had started to build just as we reached the ranger station where we had our lunch proceeded by a talk inside the station. The topic of course was about Ranger Joe Cosley, the first back country ranger, poacher and womanizer. Ranger Josh told the story about how he was eventually caught. The story is in video 3. The flag was flying at half-staff in honor of the Prescott Hotshots who died :( in the Yarnell Hill fire last week.

We got to tour the old ranger house with some some of the old stuff including old phones and traps and canteens etc. And then it was time to hit the trail. Under overcast skies we set off with a quick stop at the restroom at the main campsite near the area. As we continued on the trail we encountered a couple people on horseback. I squealed at a little snake that crossed my path. We passed through the meadows in different light and couldn't see a lot of the mountains to the east and souteast the clouds were resting pretty low by now.

We did stop by the river for a moment :D before tackling the last 1.5 miles of uphill. But just before that, I saw a big old bear leap on the other side of the river. It was fun to see but too quick to engage the camera. As we headed up the hill we ran into several hikers being guided out for their first day of a 4 day backpack. It was getting a little late in the afternoon so I presume they would be staying at the campsite by the Ranger Station. I asked the guide about the mountains we could see and I'm glad I did as Ranger Josh and I were way off based on the map.

Not too far from here we saw what looked like a rather large black fox in the woods off to our left. It went back and forth a couple times but we really couldn't get a clear visual. We thot it might be a wolverine. I researched on the net and indeed, I believe we saw a wolverine :) . We were quite excited at the time. Alas we continued on up the hill back into the forest. The last 1/2 mile seemed so much longer but even prettier going in this direction. The trail widens a bit and like so many Glacier trails, it is a pleasure to walk on :DANCE: .

We ran into some folks at the trail sign just below the TH. The boy with them had a close encounter with a bear over at the falls in Many Glacier area. He was quite reluctant to talk about it despite his dad's urging so I suspect the experience must have been somewhat traumatic. We were back at the parking lot at 4:45, said our goodbyes and I decided to go to Canada for dinner.

Here are my videos of the hike:
1 - http://youtu.be/v4ez86WsyeY
2 - http://youtu.be/g5M-dnHJZpw
3 (includes at the ranger station) - http://youtu.be/ZwAHIHxfzys
4 - http://youtu.be/mr_M2Whb8Ps
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Extreme
sticky geranium, elk thistle, gallardia, silvery lupine, self-heal, yarrow, just budding fireweed, thimbleberry, horsegrass, pink clover, death camas lily, several colors of paintbrush, tall cow's parsnip, white mariposa lily, alumroot, some prairie smoke, lousewort, loco, fleabane, harebell
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
 
average hiking speed 1.97 mph

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

helpcommentissue

end of page marker