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Squaw Butte 4330 - Verde River - 1 member in 3 triplogs has rated this an average 4 ( 1 to 5 best )
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Dec 27 2015
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 Guides 9
 Routes 128
 Photos 1,379
 Triplogs 87

54 male
 Joined Feb 19 2013
 Prescott, AZ
Squaw Creek-Houston Creek-Verde River, AZ 
Squaw Creek-Houston Creek-Verde River, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Dec 27 2015
Peter_MedalTriplogs 87
Hiking4.00 Miles 600 AEG
Hiking4.00 Miles
600 ft AEG8 LBS Pack
 
1st trip
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From I-17; Bloody Basin Road to Forest Road 16 is 26.2 miles. North on 16 to Forest Road 565 is about 18.7 miles. 565 dead ends with a "No Motorized Vehicles" sign about 0.3 miles down.... just east past the sign, you will see what appears to be a 2 car parking spot, thats the start of the "trail" that will meander north down and up and then east on a ridgeline to Houston Creek. There was a cairn on the south side which goes south, which drops into Squaw Creek and probably to Squaw Butte.

We learned about the actual trail route on the return flight, instead, we ventured straight EAST and routed a path down to the unnamed creek on the north side. From here Carlos and I split up, he took the high road and traversed up to the known path we mapped on google earth, I decided to follow the creek, water was flowing and it drained into the Verde, we would connect at our final destination, the Verde River (he beat me by 15 minutes).

The unknown creek drained into Squaw Creek which drained into Houston Creek. At times I encountered some cairns and various "paths" or trails. The sound of water flowing along the creek, with numerous baby waterfalls and pools was very soothing.

At times the creek(s) ledged with a waterfall, and smallish pool to below and had to re-route. Did not filter, water was tasty.

The habitat was amazing, cant even think of a comparative trek but if I had to...perhaps Grapevine Creek "like" (Big Bug Mesa)...for over 1.5 miles it was a little slice of heaven. Definitely have to return for a backpack and bag and tag Squaw Butte as a part of said backpack.

Got to the Verde as Carlos was setting up a big cairn (we will be exiting the Verde here April 2016 packraft/backpack trip). The water was flowing very fast. The dog swam in the icy cold water to hello. We noshed and I followed his route back to the car.
foliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observation
Autumn Foliage Observation Light
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"Before there was a trail..... there was no trail"
 
Apr 12 2014
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 Guides 14
 Routes 115
 Photos 4,830
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male
 Joined Oct 29 2005
 Scottsdale, AZ
Verde Hot SpringsCamp Verde, AZ
Camp Verde, AZ
Hiking avatar Apr 12 2014
topohikerTriplogs 3,536
Hiking38.36 Miles 7,263 AEG
Hiking38.36 Miles   13 Hrs   55 Mns   3.07 mph
7,263 ft AEG   1 Hour   25 Mns Break
 
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The Drive.

There a couple of ways to get to the Verde Hot Springs, and I choose the long dirt road way. I took Cave Creek road (FR24) to Bloody Basin to FR16.
There was a lot of camping activity at the Seven Springs area. The large group camp site on the east side of the road was open, and it looked near full. This is the first time I’ve ever seen the large group camp grounds open.

About 2/3 of the way down Fr24 I came across a couple of cows that I think came from Florida. They were in the middle of the road and wouldn’t budge. I was lucky that the road was a bit wider and was able to get around them. They were following the "Stand Your Ground" law.
I made to Bloody Basin / FR24 / FR16 intersection. FR16 is not a bad road, its rougher than FR24. After I passed the 3 hour drive mark, I got fidgety like my son and started asking are we there yet. I figured I was close enough and parked at a big corral.

The Hike.

From my research on the HAZ route manger, I determined that there are two routes to the hot springs on the west side of the Verde. One is to take FR16 to FR57(Dugas) road, which winds around the hot springs. Or take FR16, which is more of a straight shot to the hot springs. The road ends at the Verde about a 1/2 mile south of the springs. From the satellite view, I could see a path from FR16 to about 1,000 feet from the hot springs. Then the Verde narrowed up. From using the satellite and topo views a drew up two options to get across that 1,000 foot gap. This was my plan. Take FR16 to the Verde, then the path and cut-across to the hot springs.

FR16 started off with great views of Pine mountain. Soon I dropped into the horse camp. There is an outstanding cabin there. If the LF cabin is the Hilton, then this cabin is the Scottsdale "W" resort. The Cabin had two twin beds with pillows/sheets, propane stove, water and a concrete pad. See the pics for more detail. Soon the road starts to drop down to the Verde. As you drop Squaw peak comes into view and stays with you for almost rest of the hike. I saw three black helicopters going back and forth over the mountains ranges. I wasn't sure if there were doing exercises or looking for something.

I dropped about a 1,000 feet and FR16 went through some nice tree stands. There’s was a nice tree canopy for a while. I was surprised how cool and shady it was at the 3,000 foot level. Then FR16 went up and over a pass and then I started getting views of the Verde and the power plant. Soon I was at the Verde.

The foot path was an old ATV/jeep path. It followed the river and its washed out at two point. It ended at an old fording point on the Verde. There were a lot of foot prints along the path. I was able to cut across 4 foot of the Verde to another flat area. I was very close to the hot springs! The flat area ended .15 from the Verde! The walls here were too tall climb. I thought about walking up the Verde, but it looked too fast to do that. FOILED!

I back track to one of my possible bushwhacks and the canyon was too tall and steep. FOILED :tt: !

I back tracked again to a drainage and followed that. I found a lone cairn in the drainage. The drainage started to climb to the top of the canyon and then it started to have small water falls. I climbed the water falls until it came close to my comfort level. I then started to climb canyon walls, but there was very loose dirt. FOILED ](*,) for a third time!

Well the best laid plans of mice & men. I decided not to bushwhack to the hot springs. It was late in the day and I had a long drive home.
I returned the way I came. I pumped 2 liters of water at the Houston creek. It was cool hiking back under a full moon.

Even though I didn't make the hot springs, it was still a fun day. The morning was on the cold side with the cool wind and being @ 4,000 feet. It did warm up a lot the closer I got to the Verde. The only people I saw for the was campers on the east side of the Verde. If I try it again, I'll have to drive much further down FR16 or come in from Camp Verde and cross the Verde.
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"Everywhere is walking distance...If you have the time"
-Stephen Wright
 
Jan 04 2014
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 Guides 94
 Routes 840
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52 male
 Joined Sep 18 2002
 Tempe, AZ
Long way to Squaw, AZ 
Long way to Squaw, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Jan 04 2014
chumleyTriplogs 1,993
Hiking7.60 Miles 3,216 AEG
Hiking7.60 Miles   6 Hrs   31 Mns   1.17 mph
3,216 ft AEG
 
1st trip
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ASUAviator
The SSOs finally headed out this weekend, but with only a generous 6-hour advance notice, I decided to stick with the original plan and head up the Verde. This is a wonderfully unvisited area. Something about a 50-mile dead-end dirt road that lands you adjacent to three separate Wilderness Areas, and you pretty much have the place to yourself. Of course, it takes 3 hours just to get there!

Long Peak:
With very little pre-planning, we hit the trail around 10. The route to Long Peak is well-traveled and easy to follow. It begins in the big turn where FR16A heads downhill off Long Mesa and proceeds south along a fence line before turning east and crossing a short saddle. About halfway up to the peak, a fence crosses and the route is lost. The climb to the peak is still pretty straightforward and not too overgrown. The views are fantastic for such a short and relatively easy hike. The hike to Long was exactly 1 mile and we arrived at the peak in about 40 minutes.

Long-Squaw Ridgeline:
As with most ridgelines, there are a series of ups-and-downs, and this one is no different. While Long was a moderately smooth peak, 4709 and a slightly lower peak just north of it were very rocky, with large boulder slabs of rock to negotiate. It took half an hour to to get the .6 miles from Long to 4709.

It took another half hour to get to 4517, just .5 miles from 4709. But the northern exposure of the ridgeline was now providing more thick vegetation to fight through. Catclaw was minimal, and manzanita non-existant, but plenty of agave, and probably 80% desert holly (I call it razor holly. Not very Christmassy if you ask me). There was some other sharp stuff too.

The descent off 4517 to the saddle gets increasingly steep and the vegetation thick. Occasional wildlife trails provided some openings, but they have a tendency to end abruptly, and were the exception rather than the rule anyway. On this descent, I continued to use my hiking poles, but would have been better off putting them back in my pack since I really needed to use my hands more often than not. It took us just under an hour to make it the .8 miles from 4517 to the saddle.

Squaw Butte climb:
From the saddle up to the summit of Squaw Butte, the slope is south-facing and sparsely vegetated. That made travel easier, but this is quite simply a very steep climb. It climbs 800 feet in .3 miles, and took us 45 minutes. The easiest route leads up left of the fence line to the first large rock outcropping before you cut to the left and head up a steep gully to gain the peak.

On the way up I placed a friendly wager on the date the most recent person would have climbed this peak. I assumed we would find a register, but its remoteness made me guess 2010. Aviator went with 2012. Upon reaching the peak, I was astonished to find 5 separate containers buried in a pile of rocks, each loaded with paper. As I began to read some of them it became apparent that this peak was visited by some unusual people who all had inspirational, spiritual things to write, and all had unique Native American names. I was able to do some research on this when I got home, and all the visitors had participated in an expensive journey of spiritual enlightenment and becoming one with the wilderness run by a commercial entity that I'll just not mention here. The whole thing seemed shady on the peak, and it seems shadier after reading their website. But to each their own I guess. Of all the crap up there, there was no pen or pencil, so we didn't add our names to those of the envirocultists before us.

Squaw Butte to FR16A:
On our descent we decided not to return the way we came and instead descended the 1,400 feet to the Squaw Creek drainage with hopes of finding our way across the valley and meeting up with the road for some bushwack-free miles back to the trucks. We stayed on the north side of the saddle drainage because there was less brush to fight, until eventually it dropped us into the creek. Getting through here was a pain, but eventually we discovered we were on a very old roadbed, one I would estimate has not been used in at least 50 years, and likely longer. Subsequently, it was difficult to follow, but with a keen eye we mostly kept to it, with somewhat easier hiking than just plain winging it. We lost the road at Squaw Creek Tank and should have just headed north to FR16A, but instead headed off trail up canyon until the junction of FR16A and Roadside Spring. From there it was about 2 miles of pleasant road grade to climb the 900 feet back to the trucks. In the end, it was a completely annihilating 7.5 mile hike. Exhausted, tired, sore, bleeding, etc. But well worth the effort!

The Rollover:
The ride home became eventful after I saw the upside-down headlights of a Ford F-150 that had rolled off the road, about 30-feet down a hill. I yelled from the road above and was relieved to hear a voice respond that he was OK, but could use some help. I quickly put my boots on again, grabbed a headlamp and headed down toward the truck. Once there I discovered the passenger standing next to the vehicle, but the driver still trapped inside. He was conscious and talking, seemingly without major injury, but unable to free himself from below the steering wheel, with his hand out the window below the truck.

With the truck on it's side and a large berm behind it, there would be no way to lift and roll it to free the driver. At this point Kyle had arrived on scene and immediately decided we needed to go for help. I scrambled up the hill to my truck, quickly powered on my GPS and marked a waypoint. I drove 12-miles before I was able to get a signal and get through to 911. Knowing that it would take a mimimum of one hour for anybody to arrive on scene, I decided to head back to the wreck just to assure the victim that help was in fact on the way.

Little did I know that I wouldn't have to wait that long. DPS dispatched their SAR helicopter and we both arrived on scene at about the same time. Luckily by this point another vehicle had stopped to assist and they had been able to use a high-lift jack to raise the truck and were able to extract the driver through the windshield. Meanwhile, the helicopter found an LZ about half a mile away, and I drove up to pick up the officer/medic and bring him back down to the scene. The DPS medic did a series of basic tests and seemed to confirm what the driver was telling us ... that he was ok.

Nonetheless, DPS would require the driver visit the hospital for some basic tests to check for internal injuries. After what seemed like forever, finally some firefighters from Rural Metro arrived from Cave Creek, followed shortly by the RM ambulance. In the end, it seems everybody would be ok. Good news for something that could have been so much worse.

This is a remote area, but not that remote. It's about 6 miles north of Seven Springs on FR24. The DPS SAR helicopter medic said this is the third time he has been to this spot for a rollover off the road. There is no cell service near here. We arrived within 5 minutes of the accident. It took 30 minutes before we got through to 911. It was 15 minutes later that the GPS coordinates I gave them were relayed to the helicopter, and half an hour after that before the helicopter arrived. It was nearly 90 minutes after the accident before a helicopter was on scene ... and another hour before ground crews arrived! It's a good reminder just how long you might have to wait in the event something ever happens when out on the trails.
 Fauna
 Fauna [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Talus Snail

water 1 out of 5water less than maxwater less than maxwater less than max Roadside Spring Dripping Dripping
This is a seep and sees some cattle use, but there is water here, though pools are small and shallow, basically just in the hoofprints of the cattle use. See photo here: http://hikearizona.com/photo.php?ZIP=385635

water 1 out of 5water less than maxwater less than maxwater less than max Squaw Creek Tank 1-25% full 1-25% full
Just a little puddle of muddy water at the bottom of it.
_____________________
I'm not sure what my spirit animal is, but I'm confident it has rabies.
 
average hiking speed 1.17 mph

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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