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| Climbing | 1.00 Miles |
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| | Climbing | 1.00 Miles | | | |
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|  | | Quaker Oats |
| | 5.5 | Sport | | 1 Pitch | | | | It looks like the last time I was up here was six years ago. I had to read through the triplog again, because I recalled it being a beautiful day, and super easy climbing despite the fact that it was on slab. So easy, that I figured it would be a super fun lead for another time. What I discovered is that it was actually a really cold day, and I was just beginning to figure out how my feet work.  I think if I'd read the triplog before coming up here, I might have been scared off of trying what I did. (So I'm glad I didn't.)
Originally, we were supposed to do the Monk. But after driving by the trailhead three times (and "autohiking" a 2.5x Camelback circumference loop!) we decided to give up. The decision was made to try Sven Slab, despite Claire's best efforts to convince us that the better climbing experience was into a tall glass of craft beer. I recalled the Quaker Oats route being super easy, to the point that I could comfortably lead it! I roped up and was on the wall almost before my belayer was ready. Stood at the first bolt, clipped, and then began to wonder what I was doing. Started up the route anyway, found the second bolt (run-out, groundfall potential) and released a huge breath of air after clipping. Third bolt, pretty sure I was nuts at this point. I looked up to the fourth bolt and thought I could do it, and then halfway up realized that I was giving up. Not sure if I was afraid more of falling at this point, or of the physical cheesegratering I'd experience. Couldn't back down at this point, but I was increasingly unsure of my feet and hoped that if there was a fall, I wouldn't somehow catch the rope on my foot (biggest fear). Went big and got to the fourth bolt, fumbled a little and clipped. I stood there for a few minutes, assessing everything, and feeling the uncertainty in my legs and feet. They were fatigued, and so was my mental game, so I lowered and Joey got on the sharp end instead. He seemed to fly up the first four bolts on TR, then led up to the fifth. The runout from here is part of the "fun" factor; there's nothing left at this point but anchors, and it seems like only half the climb is done. Joey took one for the team and ran it up there and clipped the anchors. Perfection. Claire played around on the route for a little while before I went up on TR. Seemed like everything was there this time, and it was so easy! Footwork is important, and a proper amount of focus is as well, but too much and it kills you. My rope is Dumbo's feather. I could have completed this on lead had I just had a little extra confidence in my abilities, and stopped overthinking things. Maybe next time. Climbing straight 5.9 or 5.10 on actual holds is one thing, but on slab, even a 5.5 route is heady as heck unless you've had a fair bit of practice first. |
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Route Editor
Route Scout
Surprisingly, the climbing required enough focus that I did not have much apprehension of leading. Great belaying from Kelly also helped.
