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Bullhead Lake - 2 members in 3 triplogs have rated this an average 4 ( 1 to 5 best )
3 triplogs
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Jul 26 2023
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 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
Swiftcurrent PassNorth Central, MT
North Central, MT
Hiking avatar Jul 26 2023
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Hiking8.10 Miles 748 AEG
Hiking8.10 Miles   4 Hrs   33 Mns   2.03 mph
748 ft AEG      34 Mns Break
 
Partners none no partners
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
I offered for Deanna to come with us this morning as she didn't want to do the trail on her own, especially with the bear frequenting warning up.  She recruited Joelle and her son to come with us as well.  This worked great for me as even though I was hiking with Deborah and Mary, they hiked way too fast for me and would have left me in the dust.  Deanna and Joelle both liked to take pictures so this would work well.  As I was heading out the door I got to talk a little bit with Kathy, the owner, so that was fun. 

We started about 9:15AM in very windy conditions.  I would lag everyone as we made that initial climb altho I would catch up when they stopped for pictures or in Mary's case, she was readjusting her pack.

We started down the other side where you would start seeing all the lakes and then veer slightly and down some more.  Before we headed on, I was able to get a group photo with a small pond and large snow mass in the background.  You drop levels fairly fast as you continue through the forest.  Joelle's son that we called Weekend (he had a French name and I never heard it officially), hiked ahead with Deborah and Mary while the three of us lagged behind.  Before you know it you start switchbacking around and down the mountain with views of Swiftcurrent Glacier.  I always pay homage to the one area that we hiked over in 2011 (today I was hiking 12 years and a day later) that a massive snowfield was covering a waterfall; as it was a dicey crossing  [ photo ]
 
Eventually you come to a short-lived view of Windmaker Lake.  I wonder how many of my group even saw that lake as you kind of need to know where to look.  It's such a pretty little lake that is not well known in the park as you can't access it.  Around the corner, Devils Elbow, the cliff switchbacks begin in earnest where you have views of all the waterfalls coming off the mountain, some from the Swiftcurrent Glacier and some just from snow.  I am in constant awe of all that water :) .  We also had several encounters with some marmots, including Deanna who had an up close and personal photo session.

We came to a corner where we would meet up briefly with the lead hikers but just like that, they were gone again.  It's really too bad as I would have liked to get some more pictures of them in the environment.  I would take pictures of the various flora along the way and of course, took movies.  This would cause me to always lag the group but I didn't see the need to be in a real big hurry.  Finally we hit the really long switchbacks that took you through tall foliage on each side of the trail.  I always find this part a bit tedious.  And then we hear the water and just like that, we are at the bottom.

We did see about a dozen hikers on our way down.  They all had a long but beautiful climb up, that's for sure.  Joelle's son Weekend had waited for us here across the planked Swiftcurrent Creek.  There was also a volunteer ranger that we discussed the unpreparedness of some of the hikers we saw at the Chalet.  For example, one couple thot the shuttle was at the Chalet, they didn't know they needed to hike four miles and 2500 feet down on a very exposed trail.  We had a quick snack and I took off my vest as it was now heating up a little.

From here, as we headed toward Mount Wilbur, the trail was pretty much flat as we crossed over some various flows of water including one area that involved stepping stones.  We rounded Bullhead Lake and made good time as we started to encounter more people, which was to be expected.  There were still wildflowers to admire.  We came upon the side of Red Rock Lake where there is a side path you can take to get closer to the water, however, we continued on.  A little further there was a small little waterfall as the Creek went around the corner heading toward Red Rock Lake.  We hiked to the north of the Lake and encountered the intersection that takes you to the Falls.  The others didn't seem interested in stopping so we continued on.  Soon you are hiking right back to the lake where there is a beach and that's where we caught Deborah, Mary and Walker. 
 
We swung wide and continued through some tall foliage of thimbleberry bushes.  The thimbleberries are about to ripen fully and I found a few to eat :D .  The only thing is that they're a bit messy.  Needless to say when we get closer to Fishercap Lake the people traffic is freeway-like. We did encounter a group from Road Scholar which is the touring group I'd like to hook up with so it was interesting to see them and the ranger pointed out to me where I could nibble on some huckleberries🐻. We weren't going to go down to the lake but we heard there were moose.  When we got to the beach a ranger was giving her presentation and we got to see five moose. We hung here for a little while but I decided to go on as Joelle was sticking around.  Deeanna would come until we met Weekend and then once she hooked them back up again she would meet me at the Trailhead. 
 
We made plans with my other hiking partners to meet up at Froggies for Indian Fry Bread tacos but sadly, they only opened for dinner so we had a late lunch at St Mary Lodge Snowgoose Grille.  The girls had fried pickles for the first time.  I've had better.  I then drove Deanna to Rising Sun so she could catch the shuttle to Logan Pass where her car was parked and she would head for Spokane.  I met my hiking partners at St Mary VC where we had left the other vehicle that had my stuff.  They drove home to Big Arm and I headed up to Red Eagle Motel where I had made a reservation a couple nites prior.  I would walk over to Johnson's to get a piece of Huckleberry Ice Cream pie which thankfully they had.  The last couple times they haven't had it.  I enjoyed every bite :y:   

I had intended on staying another nite but I got a low tire warning the next morning so, after putting some air in the one tire, I decided I better head to Great Falls to get it checked out as technically I was in the middle of nowhere for service.  The folks at Big O said there was no need to be concerned as it was only a couple pounds of air and only one tire.  I headed to Taco John's as I was starved and texted Kim, my cousin's girlfriend, to see if she could meet.  We visited for a short time as she had an appt.  Then I called Cousin Connie about coming out to the ranch but it sounded like it might not be a good time, and quite frankly, I think she was sick of me.  After all, she did get stuck with me for an extra three days since I came early after not doing the 6-nite backpack.
triplog and photoset from 2018 (has pics of the Chalet's interior)  [ photoset ]


[ youtube video ] from Chalet to near Devils Elbow
[ youtube video ] to near the bottom
[ youtube video ] from above Bullhead Lake to Swiftcurrent Creek and beyond
[ youtube video ] from the hanging bridge to the end, including moose

WATCH 9:15AM-1:47PM, 7.7 miles, 5090-7599 elevation. 116 avg bpm/158 max. Temp showed as 80.9 and 23% humidity but I don't know when it recorded that.
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Moderate
Pearly Everlasting, Showy Aster, Fireweed, Paintbrush, Arrowleaf Groundsel, Beargrass (mostly non-blooming), Elderberry, Thimbleberry, Huckleberry
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
 
Aug 01 2018
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 Guides 21
 Routes 1,182
 Photos 36,858
 Triplogs 1,570

69 female
 Joined Feb 26 2004
 Phoenix, AZ
Granite Park Chalet to Swiftcurrent Trailhead, MT 
Granite Park Chalet to Swiftcurrent Trailhead, MT
 
Hiking avatar Aug 01 2018
tibberTriplogs 1,570
Hiking8.02 Miles 717 AEG
Hiking8.02 Miles   5 Hrs   28 Mns   1.63 mph
717 ft AEG      33 Mns Break
 
Linked   linked  
Partners partners
writelots
Swiftcurrent Trail/Continental Divide Trail (CDT)
Alas, it was time to part ways with the Granite Park Chalet. We took some last pictures and then stopped to visit with Margaret, the Chalet Host. We told her we had enjoyed the Backslope Brewery in Columbia Falls where she works when the Chalet is not open. She and Wendy also had the same sunglasses holder. She told us a little more about her work at the Chalet and how much she likes it. She's been there for three years I think. She was a boat captain on Two Medicine Lake previous to that. I think she is originally from Wisconsin as were a few of the other employees of the Chalet.

So UP the Pass we go. Our packs were a little heavier and it seemed a bit humid but we made pretty decent time. From there it's pretty much downhill for three miles but first Wendy wanted to take a side trip to the Overlook we had stopped at in 2011. I didn't realize that as we hiked by the turn off. So we found another spot which is where we cliffed out in 2011 as the area was covered in snow. Wendy was also fixing something in her pack so we lingered for a bit. I watched a chipmunk/squirrel over in the distance.

And once back on the trail, we got side-tracked looking at a little meadow being exposed by a snowfield that now had a little waterfall into it. You hike through a small fir tree area until you wrap around to the side of the mountain above this middle part of the Swiftcurrent Valley. And then, boom, there you are on the bare edge of the mountain before it makes the first switchback. Your view is of all the lakes below and despite the slightly smokey conditions, it was still quite the sight. We continued our hike until the area where we remember we could see the large snowfield in the distance that covered the waterfall of Swiftcurrent Creek that we crossed in 2011. That would not be an issue this year. We wrapped our way to just below and over the little waterfall. There was still a bit of a snowbank protecting part of this area. We lingered here just for a minute remembering the terrifying moments we had crossing the snowfield knowing there was water below.

From here you hike along very high switchbacks with a view for only a short time down to Windmaker Lake as you make your way around the Devil's Elbow toward one of the larger waterfalls coming at you from above. I just read the reason they call it the Devil's Elbow is that horses were ridden back in the day so it was a little tricky. As a hiker, it's really not that big of deal except that you can't quite see the turn at the top. After another brief moment admiring the water falls we continued our trek down encountering hikers here and there. Most were just hiking for the day and not to the Pass. There is this one area that gives you a spectacular view of the valley and all the lakes so there were several folks having a snack/lunch here. It would be about the four mile mark coming or going.

Now we were getting into the valley still utilizing these sweeping switchbacks where you have the headwall or the lakes in view and wildflowers scattered about from time to time. I also read recently that the fire of 1936 destroyed most everything in this valley and that is why you see very few trees. http://www.glacierparkfoundation.org/Hi ... storm.html
Tuesday, September 1: 4:00 am: Telegram to NPS Director: "Most disastrous fire in Glacier Park History resulted from yesterday's wind storm fire crossed swiftcurrent pass burned down Swiftcurrent valley destroyed everything there except many glacier hotel. Wednesday, September 2: 10:30 pm: "Moderate general rains have greatly improved fire situation approximately 300 men will be released tomorrow also about two thirds of forest service overhead from this region stop In the Many Glacier area the Swiftcurrent Valley was absolutely denuded of all trees and practically all other vegetation.
And now it makes sense why the Valley here is so baron except for the undergrowth.

It seems to take longer than it should to actually reach the Valley floor. You cross the creek where all the water flows from the several waterfalls of the Swiftcurrent Glacier. It soon becomes apparent that the creek is not flowing in its normal pattern as the second bridge is no longer there and instead, you wander a tad looking for the next crossing as the path is not evident. They took the remains of the bridge and used it in two different places to create make-shift crossings of the water.

And then Wendy ran into someone she knew would be up here but didn't know where; another of our many coincidences on this trip. They were just hiking to where they would see the waterfalls. We continued on our way around Bullhead Lake and were now running into a great deal more people. With the Iceberg Trail area closed due to bears, this was probably a nice option I guess. It was starting to get a bit warmer now but we were only a couple miles away from the TH. And then low and behold, we ran into Bob who we had met on our way into the Cut Bank area Glacier last week. How 'bout that?! He was with a different family member this time but still had his big camera with him.

And then Wendy's friend caught back up with us on their way back so they chatted some more and we got some pictures. After Redrock Lake you start hiking thru some aspen alleys which is quite nice and somewhere in here we were able to find some huckleberries to eat and a couple thimbleberries. It was more shaded as well and the trail widened substantially as we got near Fishercap Lake. We encountered a young boy who was having one of those moments of not wanting to go any further and his parents trying to deal with that. Later we saw a female deer and her buck a little after that. We would see her again when we crossed the bridge over Wilbur Creek. I was able to snap a few pictures. And then we passed the signs for the trail and the closed sign to the Iceberg/Ptarmigan Trails.

We put our stuff in the car and moved it for some reason. We then walked over to the restaurant at the Swiftcurrent Inn and ordered a couple appetizers and a couple Huckleberry Lagers finishing it off with a Huckleberry Smoothie, YUM! The food was pretty good and it wasn't too crowded. We looked through the gift shop before our drive back to the KOA at St Mary. We had a different cabin that was further from the bathrooms but had a better view. After showering we met up with Bill, Jim and McKenzie and it had been decided we were going to Johnson's for dinner to meet up with another glacierchatter and her daughter. And guess who we ran into... Max. So we visited with him for a bit again.

Afterward we decided to drive to Two Sisters to get some huckleberry pie to have for breakfast the next morning. And guess who we ran into again.... Max and not only Max, but Bob. Timing can be everything. Anyway, we tried to hook up Max to help with the Glacier Institute studies that were coming up. Not sure that it ever came to fruition but Max would be a great addition as he's a great hiker and climber. I can't remember what they were wanting to count but I think Pikas.

So quite the day we had before settling in our KOA cabin for the nite.


Videos: Part 1 from the Chalet [ youtube video ]
Part 2 a top the Pass heading down [ youtube video ]
Part 3 heading down [ youtube video ]
Part 4 down to the Valley floor and Bullhead Lake [ youtube video ]
Part 5 to Red Rock Lake to Swiftcurrent Inn [ youtube video ]
_____________________
For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled.
 
Jul 02 2017
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 Guides 37
 Routes 556
 Photos 10,872
 Triplogs 1,052

43 male
 Joined Jan 21 2013
 AZ
Bullhead LakeNorth Central, MT
North Central, MT
Hiking avatar Jul 02 2017
FOTGTriplogs 1,052
Hiking7.34 Miles 1,149 AEG
Hiking7.34 Miles
1,149 ft AEG
 
1st trip
Linked   linked  
Partners none no partners
This was just a short afternoon hike after hiking to Iceberg Lake. It was real warm, so eventually the hike devolved into a couple of nice refreshing swims.

The views along this trail are great. In particular, in the direction towards Swiftcurrent Pass. We turned around at the scenic Bullhead Lake, after a quick swim and cool visit from a bull moose. The hike back was pretty standard until we ran across a fun group from Mississippi who goaded us into some waterfall jumping along Swiftcurrent Creek. The water was cold and the current a little fast, but it was refreshing and the perfect ending to a warm day.
 Fauna
 Fauna [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Moose
 Named place
 Named place [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Mount Wilbur  Redrock Lake
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Isolated
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  2 archives
average hiking speed 1.83 mph

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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