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Ptarmigan Trail - 2 members in 2 triplogs have rated this an average 4 ( 1 to 5 best )
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Aug 22 2023
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 Guides 99
 Routes 1,484
 Photos 16,072
 Triplogs 1,374

male
 Joined Jan 07 2017
 Fountain Hills,
Mount Saint Helens Summit, WA 
Mount Saint Helens Summit, WA
 
Hiking avatar Aug 22 2023
DixieFlyerTriplogs 1,374
Hiking9.51 Miles 4,775 AEG
Hiking9.51 Miles   8 Hrs   19 Mns   1.32 mph
4,775 ft AEG   1 Hour   6 Mns Break
 
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1st trip
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Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
This hike was to the summit of Mount Saint Helens, which has an elevation of 8,333 feet and prominence of 4,573 feet. Both of these figures were about 1,300 feet higher before the Mount Saint Helens volcanic eruption in May, 1980.

Permits are required to do this hike, and I had obtained permits from wreck dot gov.

We started and ended the hike at the Climbers Bivouac Trailhead.

The first two miles were on a very nice trail through a forest. The elevation gain was around 900 feet in those two miles. The trail steepened after that, gaining a fairly constant 1,500 feet per mile over the next 2.5 miles. The first part of this portion was a lot of rock and boulder hopping; this was followed by a steep climb on loose dirt and ash. The trail got more powdery the closer we got to the crater rim.

Once on the rim of the crater we headed west along the rim to get to the summit. There was a good use trail to follow most of the way, but one section involved a bit of rock scrambling.

There were a lot of low clouds on the day which put a damper on the views, but the clouds opened up occasionally.

We only saw a handful if people on the way up, but there were quite a few people coming up as we started our descent. Many of them seemed to be struggling, and I noticed that a few were only wearing tennis shoes, which is not the best footwear for this hike.

The boulder hopping was slow going for me, moreso on the descent. We were able to bypass some of the bouldering on the way back by dropping down to a path just below the bouldery ridgeline that we were on. I plunge stepped down on the powdery ash on the initial part of the descent from the crater rim, which was fun!

This is not an easy hike, but I wouldn't mind doing it again sometime.
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
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Civilization is a nice place to visit but I wouldn't want to live there
 
Jul 28 2018
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 Guides 94
 Routes 840
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52 male
 Joined Sep 18 2002
 Tempe, AZ
Mount Saint Helens RimVolcano, WA
Volcano, WA
Hiking avatar Jul 28 2018
chumleyTriplogs 1,993
Hiking9.55 Miles 4,747 AEG
Hiking9.55 Miles   6 Hrs   52 Mns   1.74 mph
4,747 ft AEG   1 Hour   23 Mns Break
 
1st trip
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On February 1, while the rest of Arizona was paying thousands of dollars to get permits for Havasupai, I was among those Instagram Fame Seekers who was crashing the servers of the MSH Institute, trying to get one of the 100 permits available each day to visit the rim of the MSH volcanic crater. At $22 it's a reasonable fee, and the permit certainly makes it a more enjoyable experience by limiting the number of people you encounter (endure?) during the hike. Coconino should do the same on Humphreys. :M2C:

So, permits in hand, I headed to PDX for a weekend with friends, and a Saturday MSH summit as the highlight. It's less than 2 hours to the trailhead, so we didn't even get up early on Saturday before making the drive. The weather was record warm in the city, but on the mountain, it was nearly perfect. A light breeze accompanied sunny skies and temperatures in the 60s. The only downer was that visibility was pretty crappy and a layer of brown haze obscured many distant views.

Once we hit the trail, the lower 2 miles went by in a flash. We encountered a ranger who checked our permits before heading out of the trees and beginning the real ascent. As others have written, it's basically the same as Humphreys from the saddle to the summit. Only it lasts a little bit longer, and gets a little bit steeper. And then the final 1,500 feet turns into more of an ashy, gravelly, sandy, mess. You should try to make switchbacks on the climb up ... there have been many who have done it before. But the descenders run and slide straight down, making it appear that the best route is straight up. Save those paths for the way down, and make the climb a bit easier by switching back. :M2C:

Cresting the rim is one of the most unique hiking sights I've ever encountered. Truly impressive. So many colors and textures. The lava dome in the middle of the crater was smoking from a few different spots, and as we sat on the rim and enjoyed a snack, it became eerily apparent that this mountain is ever-changing. There was a constant barrage of rock slides echoing into the crater. Of course, the ash is loose, but it seems that even the solid rock that remains isn't really attached to the mountain. It certainly made me wonder about how close to the edge to wander!

Krista and Steve stayed near where the route reached the rim, while I had to take the opportunity to run over to the high point. There's a surprisingly deep saddle along the rim that you have to drop into and climb back up. Probably close to 300 feet. I wasn't really prepared for that, but it only took a few minutes.

Back with the others, we packed up and began the descent. The first 1,500 feet in the loose gravel and ash goes very quick as you can basically step and slide the whole way. Once the terrain turns into boulders, travel slows significantly until back on the Ptarmigan trail below tree line.

At the trailhead, we enjoyed leftover mac n cheese and a beverage before driving home to the heat. PDX is on a record spell of days over 90, and Sunday hit 98. In a city with little A/C, that's a bit rough, and we spent the better part of the next day floating in the Willamette with much of the rest of the local population!

If I lived here, I'd probably do this one a couple of times a year. I'd definitely like to go back and try a winter ascent sometime. That would be even more fun! :)
 Geology
 Geology [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Volcano
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I'm not sure what my spirit animal is, but I'm confident it has rabies.
 
average hiking speed 1.53 mph

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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