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Eagletail Peak
6 Photosets

2020-01-18  
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2017-01-28  
2013-02-13  
2011-03-12  
2011-03-12  
mini location map2013-02-13
7 by photographer avatardwightnancy
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Eagletail PeakSouthwest, AZ
Southwest, AZ
Hike & Climb avatar Feb 13 2013
dwightnancy
Hike & Climb10.20 Miles 2,027 AEG
Hike & Climb10.20 Miles   11 Hrs      0.93 mph
2,027 ft AEG35 LBS Pack
Onsight IV PG  • Trad • 5.7 Unknown Not good • 1 Pitch
 no routes
1st trip
Linked none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
Pro: .5 to 2 c4, slings, 60m rope, HELMETS.
The longest day, most physical summit in the area. Also probably my favorite. You gotta get on this one. Amazing views, stunning technical summit, very low traffic.

Mostly followed SBKellys' route. Routefinding was easy thanks to his excellent description. The only navigation issue will be walking directly back to your vehicle in an undifferentiated sea of tall cacti. We climbed up the last little hill (25 ft.) on the way back to spot our vehicle in the binoculars and pick a spot directly above it on the horizon to hike towards. Also consulted Todds desert hiking topo.

Avoiding the knifedge makes this route class 3 except for the summit which I estimate at 5.8+. NOTE- outbound we did the knifedge ridge instead of going down through the broad gully below the summit and it indeed was horrendous. And time consuming due partly to Ginger- the dog. Ginger has a Ruffwear fall-rated ($125) harness and 20ft. Dyneema tether to allow me to "short-rope" or haul her through the tough spots. It is no casual matter to take a dog on this part of the trip. On return we elected to go down into and back up the broad gully and it was much quicker and waaaaay less exposed. I can reccomend this route to experienced hikers/climbers with a properly harnessed dog. Basically we did a bee-line from the saddle (where you first see the summit) to the summit ridge -thus avoiding the knifedge ridge. The actual sub-summit ridge looks spicy, but it is super juggy and only mildly exposed. After that part we left Ginger right at the base of the technical pitch (climb).

My wife and I both summited. I felt it was a safe technical climb with good gear. A leader comfortable at this grade will not have trouble, but it is not a total cake walk. The technical pitch was a little overhung in spots and the rock was somewhat loose, so climber and belayer should wear a helmet. I set up a belay anchored on the bolts with a re-direct (cam) to the top of the climb. This allowed a relatively low friction belay with me directly above the climber. I did not belay off my harness as I wanted to be able to rig a 3-1 GriGri pulley if needed.

What a great, long, hard, rewarding day.
Fauna
Fauna
Dog
Culture
Culture
Throwing a Wendy
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dwightnancy's
11 Photosets

  2016-01-26
  2014-03-05
  2014-02-04
  2014-02-02
  2014-01-25
  2013-03-01
  2013-02-26
  2013-02-13
  2013-01-30
  2013-01-27
  2013-01-18
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