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West Fork of the Gila River - 4 members in 3 triplogs have rated this an average 4.8 ( 1 to 5 best )
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Sep 01 2023
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 Guides 94
 Routes 840
 Photos 22,055
 Triplogs 1,993

52 male
 Joined Sep 18 2002
 Tempe, AZ
Middle West Gila Loop, NM 
Middle West Gila Loop, NM
 
Backpack avatar Sep 01 2023
chumleyTriplogs 1,993
Backpack40.69 Miles 3,300 AEG
Backpack40.69 Miles4 Days         
3,300 ft AEG
 no routes
1st trip
We had a larger loop planned, but dialed it back a bit to shave a day off the total trip. We set out from Phoenix for the 6 hour drive. Google Maps doesn't even pretend this is a place you can drive to LOL. Apple Maps at least realizes there's a road. Reports of up to 2 hours to make the drive from Silver City to Cliff Dwellings proved a bit conservative for us. We managed it in just over an hour, though the whiplash induced vomiting was a bit of a negative. :/

Day 1: Middle Fork to Little Bear 7.61 mi - 300 aeg - 2:34
We set off at the crack of 2:45 for our planned short day. Middle Fork features 32 river crossings, so the warm afternoon sun was easily offset with constant splashing. West Fork was running around 9cfs and crossings were never more than knee deep. This one just gets better the farther upstream you get. We arrived at our planned camp near the junction with Little Bear, but it was a very popular spot and we decided to continue on a bit, camping at a peaceful spot about 10 minutes farther upstream.

Day 1 Extra: Little Bear 1.9 mi - 150 aeg - 0:58
I had read that the last half mile or so of Little Bear was really special, so Ryan and I headed back from camp to check it out. It really is a special little slot canyon with a trickle of water flowing through it. Definitely worth the visit.

Day 2: Little Bear to The Meadows 11.1 mi - 500 aeg - 4:42
We continued upstream on the Middle Fork trail to start the day. After another 15 river crossings, we took a break to soak in the Jordan Hot Spring, a really nice hot spring with clear blue-tinged water and a nice gravel floor. There were a few groups camped in the area and we were happy to have avoided a night here. Heading upstream, the route progressively deteriorated until the final 2 miles were just straight bushwhacking misery through shoulder high brush and complete mystery of route-finding. The Meadows promised good camping opportunities, but all but one spot was overgrown. Thankfully we were the first arrivals on the day so we were able to take advantage of this one.

Day 2 Extra: Meadows explore 2.25 mi - 200 ft - 1:40
I had planned to continue upstream and check out some more of Middle Fork, but I gave up on that after seeing the condition of the route just to get this far. Instead I tried to piece together some of the original route from before the post-fire flooding, as well as map out the reconstructed route. I figured it all out, but it's a mess that nobody carrying a backpack wants to deal with. I found a nice spot overlooking the valley, and hit a couple hundred yards of Meadows Trail #53 ... it doesn't look like it's had any maintenance (or use) in recent memory.

Day 3: Meadows to West Fork 8.88 mi - 1700 aeg - 4:00
We set out from the Meadows to cross up and over the plateau via Big Bear #28. The initial climb is steep and steady but tops out with some stunning views across the Middle Fork to the north. There's a couple of miles of pleasant ponderosa forest strolling up at 7,000 feet before dropping down to the West Fork. This south-facing ridge was hot and more exposed, with first class views across the Gila. Once we reached the river, it was like being in a whole different world. We headed upstream less than a mile before setting up camp in a nice riverside site.

Day 3 Extra: West Fork Upstream 4.14 mi - 200 aeg - 2:01
After some well-deserved afternoon nap time, it was time to explore a bit more upstream on West Fork 151. While this West Fork also suffered from post-fire flooding, the trail was a much more pleasant hike than Middle Fork. Oh, there was no less poison ivy to wade through, but the trail was nicely trodden and overall a more pleasant cut that was more of a trail through a beautiful forest with occasional river crossings compared to the flatter, riverside, rocky, scoured floodplain over on Middle Fork. After a couple of miles, we enjoyed an afternoon beverage before turning back downstream to camp.

Day 4: West Fork back 4.73 mi - 250 ft - 1:36
Another planned easy day took us downstream along the West Fork. A couple more river crossings brought our trip total to just over 100 (add 20+ for the daily "extra" hikes!). There's a mile or so east of EE canyon where the trail is far away from the river, before dropping back down and leading to the national monument. We took the horse trail along the river to avoid the road walk that lead us back to the visitor center and the end of our loop.

Notes: Poison Ivy: Tons of it. Lots of scrubbing at the end of every day and some luck are your friends. Bears: We only saw a few piles of scat. This seems to be the exception. Everybody we talked to who were frequent visitors or had been here before reported numerous encounters. Rattlesnakes: Beautiful black-tails. Big, healthy, and plentiful. Keep your eyes open as you push through that knee high grass! (After swimming the river or in wet grass, soggy rattles are almost impossible to hear. That was fun!)

dry Adobe Canyon Dry Dry

dry Big Bear Canyon Dry Dry


dry E E Canyon Dry Dry

dry Grave Canyon Dry Dry


dry Indian Creek Dry Dry


dry Jordan Canyon Dry Dry

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Jordon Hot Springs Gallon + per minute Gallon + per minute
Clear and 90+

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Little Bear Canyon Light flow Light flow
just a ribbon in the sand

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Middle Fork Gila River Light flow Light flow
9cfs

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max West Fork Gila River Light flow Light flow
5cfs

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I'm not sure what my spirit animal is, but I'm confident it has rabies.
  3 archives
May 22 2020
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 Guides 12
 Routes 192
 Photos 863
 Triplogs 356

42 male
 Joined Nov 30 2015
 Phoenix, AZ
Gila Wilderness loop, NM 
Gila Wilderness loop, NM
 
Backpack avatar May 22 2020
ShatteredArmTriplogs 356
Backpack46.85 Miles 4,216 AEG
Backpack46.85 Miles2 Days   21 Hrs   3 Mns   
4,216 ft AEG
 
This weekend I was supposed to be doing North Bass. But the GCNP decided that rather than honoring existing backpacking permits, they should open up the first thing they closed for public health reasons. But I had a backup plan, which was to check out the Gila Wilderness.

Friday - 9 miles

Arrived at West Fork TH at around 2pm MDT, and started walking. There wasn't really much of a plan; just that I would head up West Fork and come down Middle Fork. But daily mileage would just kind of be whatever I felt like. The plan for the day was to walk until there was 2-3 hours of daylight left, then set up camp. With about 2.5 hours of daylight left, and after almost 9 miles of walking, I found a really nice campsite and called it a day. Was pretty exhausted after the 6+ hour drive.

Saturday - 19 miles

Decided as I went to bed the night before that this would probably be the longest day. White Creek Cabin was only ~8 miles away, and I wanted to make it farther than that. But I also didn't want to dry camp if at all possible, which meant making it to Middle Fork or trying my luck at Prior Cabin. I decided to take the roundabout way through the Hell's Hole bend, because I have a general policy to always check out a place called Hell's Hole (this turned out to be the least interesting of the bunch, 2/5, not worth the time - maybe it was more interesting up the side canyon). Got to the last crossing of West Fork before the cabin, and also decided to check out the little out-and-back to the falls (didn't bother dropping my pack for some reason). That was more worthwhile than Hell's Hole.

Truth be told, right at that spot, a quarter mile before the cabin, was a very appealing camping area. Reavis Ranch x2. But it was only 11:30AM MDT when I arrived. I'm keeping it in mind for a later trip in which I stay there two nights and do a day trip up Mogollon Baldy. The cabin itself is OK, not as nice as the other end of the meadow, and it was locked up. Took a 20 minute break at the creek there to fill up on water and eat a couple of snacks.

Next was the climb up to Lilley Park, which was really not too bad. Just a moderately steep, switchbacky trail up a slope that felt much higher up in the mountains than the actual elevation would indicate. This stretch provided the best views of the trip, which a great overview of the White Creek Cabin area, and great views of the Mogollon Crest towards the west. Got to Lilley Park a little after 1PM MDT, and headed east on the Woodland Park trail.

That section of Woodland Park trail was just a stroll through the woods, and by the time I hit Prior Canyon 4 miles later, I was aching a bit, somewhat exhausted, and ready to set up camp. I resolved to camp at Prior Cabin regardless of whether there was water. The canyon itself was pretty, kinda reminds me of being up on the Mogollon Rim (makes sense, similar elevation). Outside of a trickling spring in the upper part of the canyon, it was dry until about a quarter mile before the cabin. With water there, and 19 miles on the day, I was pretty thrilled to not be forced to decide whether to continue on.

Sunday - 10 miles

Planned on an easy day. Figured I should get a little rest this weekend... Hiked east to the Meadows overlook, and from there down to the Meadows. My plan was to hike until about 1:30pm MDT, and then find a campsite. I didn't want to get too close to Jordan Hot Springs in order to avoid being shut out of the good campsites. Passed a great campsite near Brothers West Canyon, but it was only 1:15pm, so I kept going. At about 1:45pm, I found a decent spot at a bend. It was a bit brushy in the area, but it was situated so that the shade came early. Saw a lot more people in Middle Fork than I had seen thus far in the trip.

Monday - 9 miles

Set out hiking early (6:30am MDT) since I'd be driving back to Phoenix afterwards. Felt much better physically, on account of the rest day. Checked out the hot springs (closer to my camp than I realized), but couldn't take a picture due to a couple of bathers who eschew their garb. The trail between the hot springs and Little Bear is a superhighway compared to anything else I saw during the trip. It was actually somewhat enjoyable walking.

Little Bear Canyon was an unexpected surprise. Slot-like in the lower part, and really pretty the whole way up. The way down the other side became "let's just get this over with" mode.

In retrospect, I'm kinda glad I didn't get to do the original trip, because I had an absolute blast out there. Gila Wilderness really checks all the boxes in terms of great areas for backpacking, and I'm already looking at other routes.
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  4 archives
Jul 07 2013
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male
 Joined Nov 18 2005
 Phoenix, AZ
Meadows - Hells Hole LoopSouthwest, NM
Southwest, NM
Backpack avatar Jul 07 2013
nonotTriplogs 514
Backpack36.50 Miles 1,800 AEG
Backpack36.50 Miles3 Days         
1,800 ft AEG32 LBS Pack
 
1st trip
Drove through some heavy monsoon rains and started out the next morning on Little Bear #729. We quickly, but easily, get on top of the mesa, pass the trail intersection 2 miles in, and head down Little Bear canyon. LBC had a trickling flow after about halfway and was quite pleasant. We arrived at the junction with Middle Fork at a nice campsite and waited for the rest of our group to catch up.

After regrouping, we headed up the Middle Fork trail, which is fantastic at this time of year with many creek crossings. The terrain is mostly ponderosa pine on wide flat floodplains, punctuated by getting your feet and calves wet crossing every few hundred yards. Yellow coneflower lines the banks of the river.

We reach and enjoyed Jordan Hot Springs, being careful to avoid submerging our heads due to the amoeba that causes meningitis. From there we packed further upriver into the Meadows, where the thunder and rain finally caught up with us as we endured a downpour setting up our tents.

The next morning we packed up the Big Bear Trail, to the Prior Canyon trail, running into some first response firefighters returning from their dispatch of working on a tree set ablaze by lightning. We then saw a mamma black bear with two cubs, which we gave a wide berth. We reach the cabin before noon. Prior Cabin is intact and nice, but locked up tight. We continued up Prior Creek trail to the seldom traveled Lilley Park trail, which we took to Hells Hole Trail and dropped down into West Fork.

Surprisingly, unlike the Middle Fork, which was clear, West Fork of the Gila River was mud soup, the look of chocolate cocoa. It appeared to have flash flooded very recently. It was also icy cold, perhaps 50 degrees or less. Numbing almost instantly. As we made our way down the West Fork, we wondered what we would do for water, since the mud coming down West Fork looked unfilterable.

We spot a trickle of yesterdays storm coming down a crack in the wall and some members decided to filter from it. I didn't like the look of it and continued downstream, crossing the river and finding another trickle I liked better that I could filter.

As I unpacked my water filter and began filtering, I hear the sound of the river suddenly increase, as the river rapids seemed to suddenly intensify. I look at the river and notice it rose 3 inches in seconds. I realize some type of flash flood is about to happen. I look at my pack which is 3 ft above the water line and conclude it is OK for now. 30 seconds later the river has already risen another ft and I no longer like the position of my pack. As I scramble down to grab it the river comes up another foot. I grab my pack and within another 40 seconds, the spot it was sitting on is already underwater. At that point, trees, logs, and a torrent of debris come flying down the river. With my pack I scramble higher, content that I can survive as I can continue higher up my little cleft in the cliff face.

I then worry about the rest of my group, which were at the other trickle in a far more exposed spot along the river. I decide to wait at least 5 minutes, as the river has risen another 2 ft since I grabbed my pack and I don't know how much higher it will get. I don't want to leave my spot as I can climb another 10 ft up easily. After awhile I notice the amount of logs is less and the river isn't getting higher, though it isn't getting lower either. I pack up my filtering gear and decide if I can get to a better spot, as I will be trapped in this bend of the canyon for awhile and my current position isn't that comfortable.

I find that I can break off branches of a tree, bypass the underwater section of trail, and get back onto the portion of the trail which is still higher than the river by a few feet. I make my way back to the last river crossing and hail my group. Some miscommunication occurs, as I think they are all OK, but what I realize a half hour later is one of our group is trapped on the wrong side of the river against the cliff face. I can see he has found an uncomfortable spot to sit and begin to worry.

We track the river. Within 30 minutes it drops a ft. After another hour, another 6 inches. In the next hour it only drops an inch of two. By this time it is getting late. I set up my tent and sleeping bag to warm up in the event that swimming may be necessary to retrieve our trapped member. I ford the river and find the flow is low enough that crossing is possible, though difficult. The water is even colder now, if that is possible. I encourage the rest of our group to help get our member off the cliff face, before it gets dark. I wait at the shallow part in the event he slips into the water and needs to be grabbed before being swept downriver.

Luckily at this point he can traverse on the side of the cliff upriver and cross without incident and everybody retires for the night.

The next morning we set out early as the weather forecast is the same, and the river appears to have flashed 2 days in a row, and may do so a third time. We head down and cross the muddy river, back to normal levels, many times. We observe some nice ruins and redirect some lost backpackers. All too soon our trip is done and we arrive at the National Monument trailhead.
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Extreme


water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Cliff Dweller Canyon Light flow Light flow
Nice clear flow

dry E E Canyon Dry Dry



water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Jordan Canyon Light flow Light flow
Hot springs were flowing, beware the ameoba and filter/treat your water!

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Little Bear Canyon Light flow Light flow
Very light flow, but clear.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Middle Fork Gila River Light flow Light flow
Clear, nice flow


dry Prior Creek Dry Dry
Dry near Prior Cabin

dry Ring Canyon Dry Dry

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max West Fork Gila River Medium flow Medium flow
Muddy flow, seems that the fire from before is allowing flash floods with every rain and dumping ash/silt into the river.

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