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| Backpack | 18.90 Miles |
6,246 AEG |
| | Backpack | 18.90 Miles | 3 Days | | |
| 6,246 ft AEG | | | | |
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| no partners | | I now completely understand why folks who are accustomed to backpacking in the Sierra come to AZ and are like "ick - seriously?". What an incredible, incredible, incredible place. I was like  the entire time, and pretty much paralyzed by Tibber-mode from the word go. There were moments of  , and a little bit of  , definitely lots of  . It was almost too exciting to  . Of course, as is true with all great adventures, it didn't go exactly as we planned... 
To start with, the trip was really supposed to go to the Rae Lakes. This had particular interest to me not only because of the whole "blah-blah" about Rae Lakes being the most spectacular backpacking destination in the country, but because my middle name is Rae, and I felt like it was calling just to me. We discovered about a week before the trip, however, that the snow conditions on Glen Pass may be more than we were able to / wanting to deal with. No Glen Pass means no Rae Lakes, unless you want to do a high country trek about 40 miles out of your way. Our plan B was to make it up when we got there. No problem, right?
Rather than camping overnight up at Onion Saddle after a 10 hour dash from Phoenix, the group decided instead to crash at my mother-in-law's pad in San Bernardino. While this was a total boon for the good-nights-sleep side of things, it was not really good for the get-an-early-start brigade. We didn't make it to the visitor center in Lone Pine to get our permits until almost 11am. Then after lunch at Carl's Jr. (I still shudder), and gas, and what not, we weren't even in Onion Valley until after noon. We scrapped the idea of hiking any further than Kearsarge Lakes that day, opting in exchange to take it slow and easy while our bodies acclimated to the elevation and our backs got used to the extra weight of those pumpkin heavy bear vaults.
Once past the trailhead, though, it was drop-jaw beauty the entire time. I suppose if you want more details on this part, you'll have to look at my pics. But if you're the impatient type and you just want a quick summary here are two important things you must know:
- You are reading the wrong girl's trip report for brevity
- When this place is feeling kind, it is SO so very soft and gentle! Unlike the desert, where in it's softest moments it will still bite/stick/stab/starve/suck you dry - this place has a welcoming air to it that just amazed me. Soft, spongy ground. Predictable rocks. Drinkable water at every turn. Vegetation that is more likely to cradle you than kill you. I was in awe, and I was thrilled to be alive. I think I set a record for the number of Wendys in one trip. I just couldn't stop.
The first night we camped near (but more than 100' from) the shores of the Kearsarge Lakes. Across the lake was a waterfall that looked like it was designed by a famous landscape architect. Above the lake were frozen granite peaks. Between the lakes were burbling, clear mountain streams. Birds singing, crickets chirping, children laughing...okay, so no kids, but it was just that idyllic.
We agreed to take the mornings as they came, so I slept until the sun started to warm the tent. (Luckily, this time of year, that happens quite early up there). I got up and put on some warm layers and headed out to take some photos of the lake and the environs. I think I stopped after I realized that processing that many photos was going to take me a lifetime. I came back to camp, we ate breakfast, explored the waterfall, then broke for the trail again. Rather than hiking back up the hill to the trail junction, we decided just to follow the creek downstream to the next lakes and meet the trail there. SO fantastic! No catclaw, no prickly pear, no razor sharp rocks. I felt like play gazelle, or would have if my lungs weren't still a little desperate for oxygen.
We pondered our map during a snack break at Bullfrog Lake, and decided if we couldn't go over Glen Pass, then at least we could get close to it. There were a few lakes on the map that looked just as inviting on topo layers as the lakes we'd just camped at. So, we started humping it up hill toward the pass. We walked past Charlotte Lake, which was on this trail far below us. Beauty. Some of the other hikers we'd passed mentioned hiking past the lake and to Charlotte's Dome - but since there weren't trails there on our high-dollar, low-resolution maps, we'd scrapped that as an option.
Turns out we should have listened. As we got closer to the pass, we approached the first of the lakes, we crossed a number of small snow fields, as well as numerous run-off streams that told us that there was still lots of snow up there. The bowl-shaped enclosure of the first lake was protected enough that the lake was still partially frozen. Even if it had not been the consistency of my mom's iced-tea, it just wouldn't have made for good camping due to the fact that it was in a bowl made out of granite and dust. Sweet. We stopped for a lateish lunch, winded by the 11k+ altitude and a little worn out, and feeling a bit sheepish that we hadn't read the terrain a little better.
One of the party continued on (Mark, the fit adventurous type) to the pass with only a bottle of water and his camera, while the rest of us decided to head back to Charlotte's Lake to camp. We'd decided against it at first because it sounded quite busy because of the established campsites and ranger station and infested with mosquitos because of it's lower elevation. However, as we hiked in we found it to be tranquil, quiet, nearly deserted (save for a slightly over-used backcountry ranger) and relatively light on the bug presence. It was a wonderful camp, a perfect place to watch the 9pm sunset, and a little slice of heaven after all of our climbing and exploring.
The plan the next day was non-existent. Instead of trying to pretend we had one, we decided to leave our camp put for the moment and day-hike out to see more of the lowlands below Charlotte Lake and check out some new vistas of Charlotte's Dome. We didn't make it far before we realized that the rapid descent through trail-less forest would not be nearly as much fun on the way down. We snacked rather lavishly, enjoyed some incredible views, then made our way back up the valley to break down camp.
Now the plan was to return to Kearsarge Lakes and camp for the final night before a quick hike out. Everyone was dreading the long drive back. We took the higher trail back, which contoured along the side of the valley about 300-600' above the lakes. When we realized that we'd have to descend that hill in order to camp, then ascend it again before we left, we elected instead to go ahead and get the pass behind us before nightfall. We figured we could camp at one of the very pretty little lakes on the east side of Kearsarge Pass.
And, as fate seems to do so often out there, we were shown yet another path, which I think we all jumped on with an eagerness born from being tired and sunburned and ready for a hot bath. We met up with a through-hiker at the pass who was headed to the trailhead that evening, hoping to find a ride into Independence. Well - it so happened that we had a car there, and we were headed that way, and it was, after all, earlier than we thought it'd be when we got to the pass...so maybe we just hike all the way out in one day. It's all down hill, right? Then we can give this nice little through-hiker (her name was hummingbird and her total pack weight was under 8lbs) a lift.
So, the down-hill "race" as it were, was on. I took fewer pictures than I might have liked, and I got to spend a little less time contemplating the giant trees, but at the end of the hike I was relieved and content. I'd get to sleep with Mr. Gary and the four-legged children that night - and to me, at that moment, that was a treasure beyond all those mountains and lakes. I think I might, finally, after more than 18 months of frenzied hiking, backpacking and traveling, have worked a little bit of that wonderlust out of my system. |
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Change will not come if we wait for some other person or some other time. We are the ones we've been waiting for. We are the change that we seek.- Barack Obama |
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Route Editor
Route Scout
for the whole trip.
.We headed for Glen Pass and from talking to a few people found out Rae Lakes got hit harder with rain. That turned out to benefit us as the weather was better and a lot of people left. That would leave us plenty of camp spots. The climb up the Pass wore me down but the views help make you feel better 
. Painted Lady, Rae Lakes, Fin Dome, etc. Very nice area. Kelly and John picked us out a great camp spot. We ate lunch,set up camp, and recharged ourselves for our dayhike adventure 
. We finished our dayhike just after dark.We ate dinner and hung out at Johnnys. I actually stayed awake until 9:30! Great day and hiking without the Pack was nice.
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