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Big Bear Trail #28 - 3 members in 4 triplogs have rated this an average 4.3 ( 1 to 5 best )
4 triplogs
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May 21 2025
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 Guides 93
 Routes 397
 Photos 4,984
 Triplogs 4,124

49 male
 Joined Jun 20 2003
 Tucson, AZ
West Fork/Big Bear/Middle Fork/Little Bear, NM 
West Fork/Big Bear/Middle Fork/Little Bear, NM
 
Hiking avatar May 21 2025
fricknaleyTriplogs 4,124
Hiking24.00 Miles 2,990 AEG
Hiking24.00 Miles   7 Hrs   31 Mns   3.88 mph
2,990 ft AEG   1 Hour   20 Mns Break5 LBS Pack
 no routes
1st trip
Up West Fork and Big Bear canyon, down Middle Fork and Little Bear canyon. Exceptional Loop with countless river crossings of variable depth up to mid thigh. Saw one person all day!

Beautiful piney miles, then numerous miles along the river and middle fork canyon. Saw several enormous gila river trout (surprised by the size of a couple). Also saw a large bear along middle fork! first bear i have seen in quite a few years. that was amazing. stopped by jordan hot springs which was cool to see, though the day was far too warm for that to be enticing to me.

what a treat to be able to carry my filter and a couple small bottles and not have to lug 10 pounds of water for a 24 miler for once.

had lunch on the rim before dropping down to the river, which was an instant HOF lunch spot

just an exceptional hike and day
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Sep 01 2023
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 Guides 94
 Routes 840
 Photos 22,055
 Triplogs 1,993

52 male
 Joined Sep 18 2002
 Tempe, AZ
Middle West Gila Loop, NM 
Middle West Gila Loop, NM
 
Backpack avatar Sep 01 2023
chumleyTriplogs 1,993
Backpack40.69 Miles 3,300 AEG
Backpack40.69 Miles4 Days         
3,300 ft AEG
 no routes
1st trip
We had a larger loop planned, but dialed it back a bit to shave a day off the total trip. We set out from Phoenix for the 6 hour drive. Google Maps doesn't even pretend this is a place you can drive to LOL. Apple Maps at least realizes there's a road. Reports of up to 2 hours to make the drive from Silver City to Cliff Dwellings proved a bit conservative for us. We managed it in just over an hour, though the whiplash induced vomiting was a bit of a negative. :/

Day 1: Middle Fork to Little Bear 7.61 mi - 300 aeg - 2:34
We set off at the crack of 2:45 for our planned short day. Middle Fork features 32 river crossings, so the warm afternoon sun was easily offset with constant splashing. West Fork was running around 9cfs and crossings were never more than knee deep. This one just gets better the farther upstream you get. We arrived at our planned camp near the junction with Little Bear, but it was a very popular spot and we decided to continue on a bit, camping at a peaceful spot about 10 minutes farther upstream.

Day 1 Extra: Little Bear 1.9 mi - 150 aeg - 0:58
I had read that the last half mile or so of Little Bear was really special, so Ryan and I headed back from camp to check it out. It really is a special little slot canyon with a trickle of water flowing through it. Definitely worth the visit.

Day 2: Little Bear to The Meadows 11.1 mi - 500 aeg - 4:42
We continued upstream on the Middle Fork trail to start the day. After another 15 river crossings, we took a break to soak in the Jordan Hot Spring, a really nice hot spring with clear blue-tinged water and a nice gravel floor. There were a few groups camped in the area and we were happy to have avoided a night here. Heading upstream, the route progressively deteriorated until the final 2 miles were just straight bushwhacking misery through shoulder high brush and complete mystery of route-finding. The Meadows promised good camping opportunities, but all but one spot was overgrown. Thankfully we were the first arrivals on the day so we were able to take advantage of this one.

Day 2 Extra: Meadows explore 2.25 mi - 200 ft - 1:40
I had planned to continue upstream and check out some more of Middle Fork, but I gave up on that after seeing the condition of the route just to get this far. Instead I tried to piece together some of the original route from before the post-fire flooding, as well as map out the reconstructed route. I figured it all out, but it's a mess that nobody carrying a backpack wants to deal with. I found a nice spot overlooking the valley, and hit a couple hundred yards of Meadows Trail #53 ... it doesn't look like it's had any maintenance (or use) in recent memory.

Day 3: Meadows to West Fork 8.88 mi - 1700 aeg - 4:00
We set out from the Meadows to cross up and over the plateau via Big Bear #28. The initial climb is steep and steady but tops out with some stunning views across the Middle Fork to the north. There's a couple of miles of pleasant ponderosa forest strolling up at 7,000 feet before dropping down to the West Fork. This south-facing ridge was hot and more exposed, with first class views across the Gila. Once we reached the river, it was like being in a whole different world. We headed upstream less than a mile before setting up camp in a nice riverside site.

Day 3 Extra: West Fork Upstream 4.14 mi - 200 aeg - 2:01
After some well-deserved afternoon nap time, it was time to explore a bit more upstream on West Fork 151. While this West Fork also suffered from post-fire flooding, the trail was a much more pleasant hike than Middle Fork. Oh, there was no less poison ivy to wade through, but the trail was nicely trodden and overall a more pleasant cut that was more of a trail through a beautiful forest with occasional river crossings compared to the flatter, riverside, rocky, scoured floodplain over on Middle Fork. After a couple of miles, we enjoyed an afternoon beverage before turning back downstream to camp.

Day 4: West Fork back 4.73 mi - 250 ft - 1:36
Another planned easy day took us downstream along the West Fork. A couple more river crossings brought our trip total to just over 100 (add 20+ for the daily "extra" hikes!). There's a mile or so east of EE canyon where the trail is far away from the river, before dropping back down and leading to the national monument. We took the horse trail along the river to avoid the road walk that lead us back to the visitor center and the end of our loop.

Notes: Poison Ivy: Tons of it. Lots of scrubbing at the end of every day and some luck are your friends. Bears: We only saw a few piles of scat. This seems to be the exception. Everybody we talked to who were frequent visitors or had been here before reported numerous encounters. Rattlesnakes: Beautiful black-tails. Big, healthy, and plentiful. Keep your eyes open as you push through that knee high grass! (After swimming the river or in wet grass, soggy rattles are almost impossible to hear. That was fun!)

dry Adobe Canyon Dry Dry

dry Big Bear Canyon Dry Dry


dry E E Canyon Dry Dry

dry Grave Canyon Dry Dry


dry Indian Creek Dry Dry


dry Jordan Canyon Dry Dry

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Jordon Hot Springs Gallon + per minute Gallon + per minute
Clear and 90+

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Little Bear Canyon Light flow Light flow
just a ribbon in the sand

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Middle Fork Gila River Light flow Light flow
9cfs

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max West Fork Gila River Light flow Light flow
5cfs

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I'm not sure what my spirit animal is, but I'm confident it has rabies.
  3 archives
May 22 2020
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 Guides 12
 Routes 192
 Photos 863
 Triplogs 356

42 male
 Joined Nov 30 2015
 Phoenix, AZ
Gila Wilderness loop, NM 
Gila Wilderness loop, NM
 
Backpack avatar May 22 2020
ShatteredArmTriplogs 356
Backpack46.85 Miles 4,216 AEG
Backpack46.85 Miles2 Days   21 Hrs   3 Mns   
4,216 ft AEG
 
This weekend I was supposed to be doing North Bass. But the GCNP decided that rather than honoring existing backpacking permits, they should open up the first thing they closed for public health reasons. But I had a backup plan, which was to check out the Gila Wilderness.

Friday - 9 miles

Arrived at West Fork TH at around 2pm MDT, and started walking. There wasn't really much of a plan; just that I would head up West Fork and come down Middle Fork. But daily mileage would just kind of be whatever I felt like. The plan for the day was to walk until there was 2-3 hours of daylight left, then set up camp. With about 2.5 hours of daylight left, and after almost 9 miles of walking, I found a really nice campsite and called it a day. Was pretty exhausted after the 6+ hour drive.

Saturday - 19 miles

Decided as I went to bed the night before that this would probably be the longest day. White Creek Cabin was only ~8 miles away, and I wanted to make it farther than that. But I also didn't want to dry camp if at all possible, which meant making it to Middle Fork or trying my luck at Prior Cabin. I decided to take the roundabout way through the Hell's Hole bend, because I have a general policy to always check out a place called Hell's Hole (this turned out to be the least interesting of the bunch, 2/5, not worth the time - maybe it was more interesting up the side canyon). Got to the last crossing of West Fork before the cabin, and also decided to check out the little out-and-back to the falls (didn't bother dropping my pack for some reason). That was more worthwhile than Hell's Hole.

Truth be told, right at that spot, a quarter mile before the cabin, was a very appealing camping area. Reavis Ranch x2. But it was only 11:30AM MDT when I arrived. I'm keeping it in mind for a later trip in which I stay there two nights and do a day trip up Mogollon Baldy. The cabin itself is OK, not as nice as the other end of the meadow, and it was locked up. Took a 20 minute break at the creek there to fill up on water and eat a couple of snacks.

Next was the climb up to Lilley Park, which was really not too bad. Just a moderately steep, switchbacky trail up a slope that felt much higher up in the mountains than the actual elevation would indicate. This stretch provided the best views of the trip, which a great overview of the White Creek Cabin area, and great views of the Mogollon Crest towards the west. Got to Lilley Park a little after 1PM MDT, and headed east on the Woodland Park trail.

That section of Woodland Park trail was just a stroll through the woods, and by the time I hit Prior Canyon 4 miles later, I was aching a bit, somewhat exhausted, and ready to set up camp. I resolved to camp at Prior Cabin regardless of whether there was water. The canyon itself was pretty, kinda reminds me of being up on the Mogollon Rim (makes sense, similar elevation). Outside of a trickling spring in the upper part of the canyon, it was dry until about a quarter mile before the cabin. With water there, and 19 miles on the day, I was pretty thrilled to not be forced to decide whether to continue on.

Sunday - 10 miles

Planned on an easy day. Figured I should get a little rest this weekend... Hiked east to the Meadows overlook, and from there down to the Meadows. My plan was to hike until about 1:30pm MDT, and then find a campsite. I didn't want to get too close to Jordan Hot Springs in order to avoid being shut out of the good campsites. Passed a great campsite near Brothers West Canyon, but it was only 1:15pm, so I kept going. At about 1:45pm, I found a decent spot at a bend. It was a bit brushy in the area, but it was situated so that the shade came early. Saw a lot more people in Middle Fork than I had seen thus far in the trip.

Monday - 9 miles

Set out hiking early (6:30am MDT) since I'd be driving back to Phoenix afterwards. Felt much better physically, on account of the rest day. Checked out the hot springs (closer to my camp than I realized), but couldn't take a picture due to a couple of bathers who eschew their garb. The trail between the hot springs and Little Bear is a superhighway compared to anything else I saw during the trip. It was actually somewhat enjoyable walking.

Little Bear Canyon was an unexpected surprise. Slot-like in the lower part, and really pretty the whole way up. The way down the other side became "let's just get this over with" mode.

In retrospect, I'm kinda glad I didn't get to do the original trip, because I had an absolute blast out there. Gila Wilderness really checks all the boxes in terms of great areas for backpacking, and I'm already looking at other routes.
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  4 archives
Jun 09 2019
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 Guides 107
 Routes 249
 Photos 2,067
 Triplogs 514

male
 Joined Nov 18 2005
 Phoenix, AZ
Middle Fork Trail #157Southwest, NM
Southwest, NM
Backpack avatar Jun 09 2019
nonotTriplogs 514
Backpack70.00 Miles 4,500 AEG
Backpack70.00 Miles
4,500 ft AEG
 
1st trip
Prehike-the drive to the Willow Creek area took me down some new roads, including the drive down NM28, which is signed for high clearance only. It is impressive the amount of erosion control and new bridges they had to build from the big flash floods. Cars should drive around and take the smoother roads from Reserve.

I nabbed the last spot at the Ken Lilley campground (4 spots, one is kinda exposed) for the night to rest up. The Willow Creek Campground is closed, which I think means the restrooms are locked, as there were people still camping there?

Hike- drove to the Gilita TH (the picnic grounds are closed but there is room for parking for a few vehicles. I set down the Middle Fork trail. The area has not received any maintenance since perhaps a decade, though someone did put green surveyor flagging along the route, for about the first two miles. It is around then that flash floods had wiped out what remains of the trail for the next 3 miles, but the canyon is easily traveled by staying to the inside bends of the river, and crossing often. There are many nice meadows and some trees remain, though in areas the fires burned all the way down to the river. With about 1.5 miles left to reach the snow lake trail, the middle fork trail begins to reappear and is easily followed (with some pink surveyor tapes) til you reach the CDT. From there the next several miles are in great shape. There are several expansive grassy meadows and some debris piles from the flash flood the size of small houses. I find a nice campsite for the afternoon along the river.

The next day I continue downriver and take the Trotter trail up onto Johnson Mesa, with good trails allowing me to reach Clear creek, a reliable water source, a little after noon, and I check out the clear creek trail (Old maps, and HAZ, call it the Pine Flat Trail?). As predicted, a bit of rain and thunder appears. I dayhike up to Marrs spring and am unimpressed by the spring, but the creek is very nice.

Next day I start off by taking the Trotter trail to Chicken Coop. Chicken coop is a wonderful trail, going through old growth pine forests and meadows, though the creeks in this area are already dry this early in the summer season. At the end I reach Prior Cabin, and there is some light flow of water in the canyon. Having been here before, I was glad to find water as it can be dry. I head over to the Woodland Park trail 12, and hike past Woodland Park Tank, and see a male bear, very healthy with shiny black coat. The encounter is very healthy and soon he is running away from the trail to get away from the annoying human. I decide to press on for another mile rather than camp close to the tank and risk encountering him again.

Next day I take the Lilley Park Trail (HAZ and old maps call this the Woodland Park Trail 164), and pass by Big Bear tank (dry). This area is more desertified than the rest of the park, and is also recovering from wildfire. I reach Big Bear Trail and go through Big Bear Canyon, then finish the day by taking all the switchbacks down into the Meadows area of the Middle Fork. The area seemed a little different than I remember - and I wonder if the flash flood altered where the reasonable campsites were.

The next day I wake up to overcast skies and cooler temperatures. This was not in line with the weather forecast and it seems like a storm is trying to push in. This spurred all the flies to bite and draw blood and this proved to be incredibly annoying throughout the entire day. Because of the cooler temps though I decide to press on and do my plan for the day and most of the next day today. The trail sections that were in the floodplains were destroyed by the 2015 (?) flash flood and the new trail that replaces it varies in quality. The first 2 miles were the most problematic as you go though the narrowest part of the canyon. But even having to walk the rip-rap by the river, it isn't too bad. The trail does get faint though and at times there are multiple new trails competing to win out. When I pass the homestead drop-in area I take a break for lunch. The next section I think is the best part of the middle fork, and the next few miles I go slowly savoring the scenery. I eventually find excellent trails (2 - one on each side of the river) once past flying V canyon, and complete the main loop of my figure 8 camping at the trotter trail intersection.

For my last day I head upriver and climb up the Iron Creek trail. Once up on top of the mesa, the trail disappears and you are free to roam the forest for about the next 2 miles. After this the faintest path begins to appear, and doesn't really turn into a trail until you are about 2 miles from the West Fork. There is a nice meadow you have to go through, and then you reach the burn scar of the Whitewater-Baldy Fire. But from here the hiking is easy and I reach the West Fork trail and take it back to the road. A short road-walk completes the loop.
 Fauna
 Fauna [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Black Bear
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Light

dry Big Bear Canyon Dry Dry
Dry at Big Bear Trail xing

dry Big Bear Tank Dry Dry

water 1 out of 5water less than maxwater less than maxwater less than max Canyon Creek Pools to trickle Pools to trickle
Very light trickle at intersection with middle fork gila river

dry Chicken Coop Canyon Dry Dry
Dry along Chicken Coop trail

dry Clayton Creek Dry Dry

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Clear Creek Light flow Light flow
light flow at intersection with Trotter. Surface water becomes intermittent as you head upcanyon.

dry Flying V Canyon Dry Dry

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Iron Creek Medium flow Medium flow
good flow coming down iron creek

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Iron Creek Lake 26-50% full 26-50% full

dry Lilley Canyon Dry Dry


water 1 out of 5water less than maxwater less than maxwater less than max Lower Marrs Spring Dripping Dripping
Hard to tell but assume this is the pool in the rivulet of the meadow.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Marrs Spring Quart per minute Quart per minute
Light flow, there are two springs in the area.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Middle Fork Gila River Medium flow Medium flow


dry No Name Canyon Dry Dry


water 1 out of 5water less than maxwater less than maxwater less than max Prior Creek Pools to trickle Pools to trickle
Light flow in lower section by cabin


water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Upper Marrs Spring Quart per minute Quart per minute
Light flow, there are two springs in the area.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Willow Creek Medium flow Medium flow
Very nice flow down Willow

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Woodland Park Tank 26-50% full 26-50% full
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  2 archives

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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