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Middle and East Fork Gila River - GET #22 - 1 member in 2 triplogs has rated this an average 5 ( 1 to 5 best )
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Jun 09 2019
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 Guides 107
 Routes 249
 Photos 2,067
 Triplogs 514

male
 Joined Nov 18 2005
 Phoenix, AZ
Middle Fork Trail #157Southwest, NM
Southwest, NM
Backpack avatar Jun 09 2019
nonotTriplogs 514
Backpack70.00 Miles 4,500 AEG
Backpack70.00 Miles
4,500 ft AEG
 
1st trip
Prehike-the drive to the Willow Creek area took me down some new roads, including the drive down NM28, which is signed for high clearance only. It is impressive the amount of erosion control and new bridges they had to build from the big flash floods. Cars should drive around and take the smoother roads from Reserve.

I nabbed the last spot at the Ken Lilley campground (4 spots, one is kinda exposed) for the night to rest up. The Willow Creek Campground is closed, which I think means the restrooms are locked, as there were people still camping there?

Hike- drove to the Gilita TH (the picnic grounds are closed but there is room for parking for a few vehicles. I set down the Middle Fork trail. The area has not received any maintenance since perhaps a decade, though someone did put green surveyor flagging along the route, for about the first two miles. It is around then that flash floods had wiped out what remains of the trail for the next 3 miles, but the canyon is easily traveled by staying to the inside bends of the river, and crossing often. There are many nice meadows and some trees remain, though in areas the fires burned all the way down to the river. With about 1.5 miles left to reach the snow lake trail, the middle fork trail begins to reappear and is easily followed (with some pink surveyor tapes) til you reach the CDT. From there the next several miles are in great shape. There are several expansive grassy meadows and some debris piles from the flash flood the size of small houses. I find a nice campsite for the afternoon along the river.

The next day I continue downriver and take the Trotter trail up onto Johnson Mesa, with good trails allowing me to reach Clear creek, a reliable water source, a little after noon, and I check out the clear creek trail (Old maps, and HAZ, call it the Pine Flat Trail?). As predicted, a bit of rain and thunder appears. I dayhike up to Marrs spring and am unimpressed by the spring, but the creek is very nice.

Next day I start off by taking the Trotter trail to Chicken Coop. Chicken coop is a wonderful trail, going through old growth pine forests and meadows, though the creeks in this area are already dry this early in the summer season. At the end I reach Prior Cabin, and there is some light flow of water in the canyon. Having been here before, I was glad to find water as it can be dry. I head over to the Woodland Park trail 12, and hike past Woodland Park Tank, and see a male bear, very healthy with shiny black coat. The encounter is very healthy and soon he is running away from the trail to get away from the annoying human. I decide to press on for another mile rather than camp close to the tank and risk encountering him again.

Next day I take the Lilley Park Trail (HAZ and old maps call this the Woodland Park Trail 164), and pass by Big Bear tank (dry). This area is more desertified than the rest of the park, and is also recovering from wildfire. I reach Big Bear Trail and go through Big Bear Canyon, then finish the day by taking all the switchbacks down into the Meadows area of the Middle Fork. The area seemed a little different than I remember - and I wonder if the flash flood altered where the reasonable campsites were.

The next day I wake up to overcast skies and cooler temperatures. This was not in line with the weather forecast and it seems like a storm is trying to push in. This spurred all the flies to bite and draw blood and this proved to be incredibly annoying throughout the entire day. Because of the cooler temps though I decide to press on and do my plan for the day and most of the next day today. The trail sections that were in the floodplains were destroyed by the 2015 (?) flash flood and the new trail that replaces it varies in quality. The first 2 miles were the most problematic as you go though the narrowest part of the canyon. But even having to walk the rip-rap by the river, it isn't too bad. The trail does get faint though and at times there are multiple new trails competing to win out. When I pass the homestead drop-in area I take a break for lunch. The next section I think is the best part of the middle fork, and the next few miles I go slowly savoring the scenery. I eventually find excellent trails (2 - one on each side of the river) once past flying V canyon, and complete the main loop of my figure 8 camping at the trotter trail intersection.

For my last day I head upriver and climb up the Iron Creek trail. Once up on top of the mesa, the trail disappears and you are free to roam the forest for about the next 2 miles. After this the faintest path begins to appear, and doesn't really turn into a trail until you are about 2 miles from the West Fork. There is a nice meadow you have to go through, and then you reach the burn scar of the Whitewater-Baldy Fire. But from here the hiking is easy and I reach the West Fork trail and take it back to the road. A short road-walk completes the loop.
 Fauna
 Fauna [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Black Bear
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Light

dry Big Bear Canyon Dry Dry
Dry at Big Bear Trail xing

dry Big Bear Tank Dry Dry

water 1 out of 5water less than maxwater less than maxwater less than max Canyon Creek Pools to trickle Pools to trickle
Very light trickle at intersection with middle fork gila river

dry Chicken Coop Canyon Dry Dry
Dry along Chicken Coop trail

dry Clayton Creek Dry Dry

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Clear Creek Light flow Light flow
light flow at intersection with Trotter. Surface water becomes intermittent as you head upcanyon.

dry Flying V Canyon Dry Dry

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Iron Creek Medium flow Medium flow
good flow coming down iron creek

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Iron Creek Lake 26-50% full 26-50% full

dry Lilley Canyon Dry Dry


water 1 out of 5water less than maxwater less than maxwater less than max Lower Marrs Spring Dripping Dripping
Hard to tell but assume this is the pool in the rivulet of the meadow.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Marrs Spring Quart per minute Quart per minute
Light flow, there are two springs in the area.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Middle Fork Gila River Medium flow Medium flow


dry No Name Canyon Dry Dry


water 1 out of 5water less than maxwater less than maxwater less than max Prior Creek Pools to trickle Pools to trickle
Light flow in lower section by cabin


water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Upper Marrs Spring Quart per minute Quart per minute
Light flow, there are two springs in the area.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Willow Creek Medium flow Medium flow
Very nice flow down Willow

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Woodland Park Tank 26-50% full 26-50% full
_____________________
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Hike Arizona it is full of sharp, pointy, ankle-twisting, HAZmaster crushing ROCKS!!
Hike Arizona it is full of sharp, pointy, shin-stabbing, skin-shredding plants!
Hike Arizona it is full of striking, biting, stabbing, venomous wildlife!
  2 archives
Jul 07 2013
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 Guides 107
 Routes 249
 Photos 2,067
 Triplogs 514

male
 Joined Nov 18 2005
 Phoenix, AZ
Meadows - Hells Hole LoopSouthwest, NM
Southwest, NM
Backpack avatar Jul 07 2013
nonotTriplogs 514
Backpack36.50 Miles 1,800 AEG
Backpack36.50 Miles3 Days         
1,800 ft AEG32 LBS Pack
 
1st trip
Drove through some heavy monsoon rains and started out the next morning on Little Bear #729. We quickly, but easily, get on top of the mesa, pass the trail intersection 2 miles in, and head down Little Bear canyon. LBC had a trickling flow after about halfway and was quite pleasant. We arrived at the junction with Middle Fork at a nice campsite and waited for the rest of our group to catch up.

After regrouping, we headed up the Middle Fork trail, which is fantastic at this time of year with many creek crossings. The terrain is mostly ponderosa pine on wide flat floodplains, punctuated by getting your feet and calves wet crossing every few hundred yards. Yellow coneflower lines the banks of the river.

We reach and enjoyed Jordan Hot Springs, being careful to avoid submerging our heads due to the amoeba that causes meningitis. From there we packed further upriver into the Meadows, where the thunder and rain finally caught up with us as we endured a downpour setting up our tents.

The next morning we packed up the Big Bear Trail, to the Prior Canyon trail, running into some first response firefighters returning from their dispatch of working on a tree set ablaze by lightning. We then saw a mamma black bear with two cubs, which we gave a wide berth. We reach the cabin before noon. Prior Cabin is intact and nice, but locked up tight. We continued up Prior Creek trail to the seldom traveled Lilley Park trail, which we took to Hells Hole Trail and dropped down into West Fork.

Surprisingly, unlike the Middle Fork, which was clear, West Fork of the Gila River was mud soup, the look of chocolate cocoa. It appeared to have flash flooded very recently. It was also icy cold, perhaps 50 degrees or less. Numbing almost instantly. As we made our way down the West Fork, we wondered what we would do for water, since the mud coming down West Fork looked unfilterable.

We spot a trickle of yesterdays storm coming down a crack in the wall and some members decided to filter from it. I didn't like the look of it and continued downstream, crossing the river and finding another trickle I liked better that I could filter.

As I unpacked my water filter and began filtering, I hear the sound of the river suddenly increase, as the river rapids seemed to suddenly intensify. I look at the river and notice it rose 3 inches in seconds. I realize some type of flash flood is about to happen. I look at my pack which is 3 ft above the water line and conclude it is OK for now. 30 seconds later the river has already risen another ft and I no longer like the position of my pack. As I scramble down to grab it the river comes up another foot. I grab my pack and within another 40 seconds, the spot it was sitting on is already underwater. At that point, trees, logs, and a torrent of debris come flying down the river. With my pack I scramble higher, content that I can survive as I can continue higher up my little cleft in the cliff face.

I then worry about the rest of my group, which were at the other trickle in a far more exposed spot along the river. I decide to wait at least 5 minutes, as the river has risen another 2 ft since I grabbed my pack and I don't know how much higher it will get. I don't want to leave my spot as I can climb another 10 ft up easily. After awhile I notice the amount of logs is less and the river isn't getting higher, though it isn't getting lower either. I pack up my filtering gear and decide if I can get to a better spot, as I will be trapped in this bend of the canyon for awhile and my current position isn't that comfortable.

I find that I can break off branches of a tree, bypass the underwater section of trail, and get back onto the portion of the trail which is still higher than the river by a few feet. I make my way back to the last river crossing and hail my group. Some miscommunication occurs, as I think they are all OK, but what I realize a half hour later is one of our group is trapped on the wrong side of the river against the cliff face. I can see he has found an uncomfortable spot to sit and begin to worry.

We track the river. Within 30 minutes it drops a ft. After another hour, another 6 inches. In the next hour it only drops an inch of two. By this time it is getting late. I set up my tent and sleeping bag to warm up in the event that swimming may be necessary to retrieve our trapped member. I ford the river and find the flow is low enough that crossing is possible, though difficult. The water is even colder now, if that is possible. I encourage the rest of our group to help get our member off the cliff face, before it gets dark. I wait at the shallow part in the event he slips into the water and needs to be grabbed before being swept downriver.

Luckily at this point he can traverse on the side of the cliff upriver and cross without incident and everybody retires for the night.

The next morning we set out early as the weather forecast is the same, and the river appears to have flashed 2 days in a row, and may do so a third time. We head down and cross the muddy river, back to normal levels, many times. We observe some nice ruins and redirect some lost backpackers. All too soon our trip is done and we arrive at the National Monument trailhead.
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Extreme


water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Cliff Dweller Canyon Light flow Light flow
Nice clear flow

dry E E Canyon Dry Dry



water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Jordan Canyon Light flow Light flow
Hot springs were flowing, beware the ameoba and filter/treat your water!

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Little Bear Canyon Light flow Light flow
Very light flow, but clear.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Middle Fork Gila River Light flow Light flow
Clear, nice flow


dry Prior Creek Dry Dry
Dry near Prior Cabin

dry Ring Canyon Dry Dry

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max West Fork Gila River Medium flow Medium flow
Muddy flow, seems that the fire from before is allowing flash floods with every rain and dumping ash/silt into the river.

_____________________
http://hikearizona.com/garmin_maps.php

Hike Arizona it is full of sharp, pointy, ankle-twisting, HAZmaster crushing ROCKS!!
Hike Arizona it is full of sharp, pointy, shin-stabbing, skin-shredding plants!
Hike Arizona it is full of striking, biting, stabbing, venomous wildlife!
 

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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