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| Death Valley sojourns, CA | |
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| | Death Valley sojourns, CA | | | |
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Death Valley sojourns, CA
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| Hiking | 100.00 Miles |
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| | Hiking | 100.00 Miles | | | |
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| no partners | | I have made several trips to Death Valley over about a 15 year period. This is a summary of those trips, more to include them in my historical hiking profile than anything else. Oh, and to add pictures too.
My initial trip was more of a 4X4 touring trip with short side hikes. I explored mainly the Panamints and the southern end of the park. At this time a good portion of the panamints were not included in the park; now they are. No changes I can see.
I took my Jeep out of the ghost town of Ballarat up Pleasant Canyon, past the massive mining remains of Clair Camp---envision a huge bull wheel taller than a normal house--- then to the top of the Panamints. From the playas the mountains look fairly vertical and jagged. On top is a series of large swales and some cabins of varying vintage which you can stay or camp at as you like, first come first served. Feral burros of all colors abound and you will have an audience of them as you drive on the old mining roads.
My first time up I didn't find a loop road down, so retraced my steps, on a later trip a friend and I went down the South Park canyon, past the scary as heck "chicken rock".
Here your Jeep is angled about 30-40 degrees toward a sheer cliff and your tire about 8 inches from an 80 foot sheer drop. Once you crawl past that you cross a homemade log bridge on a narrow gauge road cut into the cliff. The county was threatening to close the bridge, made by 4wheelers, as it was not to specs.
Once down into south park, during the descent if you can make yourself look down into the rocky gorge you see a picturesque cabin, it is 4 wheel rock crawling out to the main road in front of the Panamints.
The only southern route through the Panamints to Death Valley proper is the 4 wheel drive Goler Wash. It's mild 4 wheeling at best, need high clearance. There are some active mining claims in it. It's claim to fame though is a turn off at Sourdough Spring to the old Barker Ranch. Here the notorious Charles Manson and his followers were arrested for vandelizing park property, bulldozers and such, but had already committed the LA Tate-LoBianca murders. Charlie was supposedly hiding in a bathroom cabinet, you can walk through the house and see the same today. At times the ranch is trashed by irresponsible visitors, but when I was there is was pretty neat, although very creepy I thought.
On up Goler you climb up Manly Pass, just awesome views and descend into beautiful open Striped Butte Valley. Three cabins here, Geology Cabin--nice rock work; Stella Andersons' place, and the very nice and fancy for backcountry, Russell camp complete with the signed "Honeymoon suite". As always camp at large if no one else is there.
There was actually running water at Russell camp, piping still intact from an uphill spring. As you drive down the valley the road roughens up and you come to Warm Springs, an abandoned resort looking area, actually built for miners supporting huge talc operations in the area. An old swimming pool graces the front of several large abandoned buildings. The warm springs have several shallow pools, and are striking with huge green grape vines in this desolate area.
You finally reach the southern end of Death Valley proper. From here I car camped then hiked up to Ash Fork mining ruins, almost stepping into a deep shaft in the process. Lots of open adits and shafts still in Death Valley, so watch your step. This trip I chose to explore the southern end of the park, visiting the small Ibex Dunes and mining area.
Just stark and beautiful. The small dunes rise as a foredrop to dark volcanic hills. I climbed and slid and played on the dunes, you have to hike about a mile to them. Did not see another person all day.
Another trip was a quickie to hike up Surprise Canyon to Panamint City. My first ever backpack was from Johnson Canyon on the park side, up over the pass and down Surprise. It was a miserable experience for me with a too heavy pack and poor fitting boots. At the time Surprise Canyon was visited by hardcore 4wheelers who winched their vehicles up a series of running waterfalls. Now the canyon is closed to off roaders. Depending on sources its 5,6 or 10 miles one way to Panamint City (0ld sign at Novak Camp where you park) an old Silver mining town from the late 1800's. Its an incredible hike, doable as a day hike, but so much more fun to backpack in and explore from a base camp. Two large springs make part of the hike by water, and the smooth granite small waterfalls make it surprisingly tricky to keep dry. It was beautiful at the large springs. As you reach the City, you see low rock walls and evidence of old and newer mining remains, there are some active prospects in the area.
The crown jewel is the towering smelter stack, stunning in red brick, towering I would estimate at least 80 feet, and the great cabins scattered about, cared for by the 4 wheelers and now hikers. I stayed at the "Hilton" but had the "Castle" and several others to choose from. I had fun summiting Sentinel peak at over 9K and exploring the mines. A cold front was coming in and it stormed in the night and I woke up to snow. It was just wonderful. I hiked out in a snow storm, I had hiked in in sunshine and warmth.
I visited the most worthwhile out the way spot, the "racetrack" and walked on the playa and studied the rocks, at rest, and the long curving tracks they had left in the dried mud, now set in an almost octagonal pattern, so neat and precise. The long playa seems flat but mild curves may hold a key to the mysterious moving rocks.
Yet another short trip was a peak bagging expedition with my San Diego friend Jerry, Wildrose and Telescope peaks. I had been wanting to do Telescope for a while. The Mahogany Flat campground seems to be a well kept secret. Free, at about 8K, some shade, picnic tables, fire grates, toilets. Something wrong with the park service here. The TH to Telescope is right out of the camp area; Wildrose is at a lower elevation by the huge beehive Kilns. Telescope is a great hike, on a clear day you can see Badwater, the low point of the continental US, and then look over to Mt Whitney in the Sierras, the high point. You do some nice narrow sidehilling and ridgelining on this one and the summit is small with stunning 360 views.
My latest trip I took a special friend and we drove and hiked. Up Trail Canyon on the park side of the Panamints, to the wonderful mine on the flanks of Wildrose Peak, in a little snow, explored the distant Eureka Sand dunes, and listened to them "sing", on to Saline Valley, just the most incredible place, with the hot springs and the small cult that has grown around them and cares for them, to the amazing Inyo mountains, rising snow capped above us. As my friend says, makes the San Fransisco peaks look like molehills. The beautiful salt lake in Saline Valley is another special place, to walk to see the tramway and its' engineering, to marvel at the geology and history here.
I'll post some pics, mainly of my latest trip, to an exceptional area on this planet, one worth visiting again and again. |
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