| |
|
| | |
|
| Hike & Climb | |
|
| | Hike & Climb | | | | |
| | | |
|
| Onsight III PG • Trad • 5.8 Sandstone Not good • 250 Feet 3 Pitches | | |
| Linked |
|
none
[ show ]
| no linked trail guides |
| Partners |
|
none
[ show ]
| no partners | | | Pro: Double rack. Need a static line and gear to ascend. 70m rope for the climb and rap. | The Approach:
The approach to Brady Peak is downright diabolical. It amounted to some of the nastiest bushwhacking I have ever done and it was through some of the most unforgiving vegetation (New Mexican Locust) there is to bushwhack through. We ended up choosing the wrong drainage to rap down from and ended up at the bottom of a drainage with a much further drop. After cursing our misfortune for a minute, we committed to raping down about 20 feet to a ledge we believed could be free climbed to the top. Then we tied a static line for rapping down and jugging back up to cover the final 70 feet to the ground. From the bottom of the rap to the cruiser hermit shale it was more bushwhacking. Some of the bushwhacking could be mitigated by hugging the base of the Coconino layer. Meanwhile, the Hermit Shale was a breeze and we were at the base of the climb in a rather short amount of time after breaking through the thick stuff.
The Climb:
The first pitch is a low fifth class scramble, so we free soled it to save time. The beta for the second pitch calls for putting in some pro and traversing over to a 5.6 well protected chimney that will take you to a small ledge and tree belay. Unfortunately, I started up a little high on my traverse and rather than a relatively easy traverse over to the Chimney, I set myself up for a spicy transition out onto a short stretch of exposed slab that was guarding access to another much narrower crack system. Pernell was sure I was in the right spot and encouraged me to make the move into the crack system, assuring me it only went 5.6. I was positive that the sequence required to reach the next available crack was tougher than 5.6, but I continued on anyways thinking maybe I was just not seeing the Jesus hold, or something. The sequence out onto the sandstone slab ended up involving trusting a pure finger lock and some friction work with the feet, it was steep and sustained, but I climbed it about as clean as one could climb it. Of course my attention to detail and technique was motivated by the fact that I was not crazy about the pro below me and I was simply in a no fall zone. Even if my gear held, it would have been an R type fall two that would have probably ripped Pernell off his ledge and blew the piece he was using to anchor himself to the rather narrow belay ledge. The pro was not great after reaching a point of rest, but I was able to get creative and buried a number 3 deep in a little roof crack within a wider crack just above my head. The bomber number three gave me the confidence to get back out on the face and reestablish myself in the crack to finish the final ten, or so feet of it. I came to a point where the crack became far too difficult for me to climb. By now, I could see the 5.6 chimney that I was suppose to be in. Luckily, there seemed to be a manageable traverse over into it from my position. I backed up the spicy traverse with a .3 and a .5 and headed over with ease. Getting inside the 5.6 Chimney was such a relief! The holds were blocky and the climbing was easy. I continued on with ease to the belay tree. From there I pulled up Pernell. We quickly swapped leads upon his arrival and he finished off the easy 3rd pitch.
The Summit:
This summit definitely does not see much traffic. There was no register, so we left behind one of the coveted copper colored boxes and a new note pad and pencil for future ascents. There are a set of brand new rap anchors off the west end of the lower summit and we were able to reach the start of pitch two with a 70m rope. The rap is big and fun, but the pull is tricky.
Getting Back to the Rim:
There were three major obstacles to getting back up on the north rim. Repeating the bushwhack, a 70 foot jug back up our fixed line and a small lead climb. The jug out proved to be an absolute smoker. Jugging up a 70 foot single fixed line with a heavy pack is an absolute workout to say the least. Then the short lead to reach the rim that looked rather easily on the way down, now all of a sudden looked pretty daunting. Pernell was able to lead the large OW crack by walking up a number five as far up as the large piece could protect. From there it was a physical OW climb to a "God" hold and eventually a prehung sling that we had left behind on our way down. Pernell pulled me up from there and we began the dreadful uphill bushwhack through some of the thickest New Mexican Locust I have ever walked through.
Final Notes:
The approach for this summit is not for the faint of heart. I can't imagine anyone other than a dedicated Canyon enthusiast attempting this one due to its approach. Because of the approach and the tough second pitch lead, this summit gave me a strong sense of accomplishment. It was nice to get some props from Pernell on the second pitch lead and the development of my climbing overall. I also complete this climb with a broken pinkie toe, which although maybe a bad idea, somehow worked out fine. Albeit, with a little added pain and some cursing. Feel free to DM for more detailed beta on approach and climb.
Grand Canyon Summit #26. |
| _____________________
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
| |
Route Editor
Route Scout
