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Jacks Canyon / Main Wall
3 Photosets

mini location map2019-09-14
4 by photographer avatarDennisWilliams
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Jacks Canyon / Main WallPayson, AZ
Payson, AZ
Climbing avatar Sep 14 2019
 no routes
1st trip
Linked none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
 Blackened Lead 5.10aSport1 Pitch40 ft
 TakeYour Pick Lead 5.10aSport1 Pitch55 ft
 Windchill Lead 5.10aSport1 Pitch55 ft
A pretty good day climbing.

My climbing buddy Brett and I spent the day at Jack's Canyon, located about half-way between Clint’s Well and Winslow along SR87 just as the pines give way to the cedars and junipers. A cool and scenic hiking destination as well as a climbing crag. It has over 200 bolted routes on decent limestone. The climbs tend to be short and with hard first moves. This means that it can be tough just to get started on a route with somewhat easier but sustained climbing above. The upshot is that you can really go for it knowing that the toughest stuff will be over quickly and you don’t have to conserve energy for higher up. The routes also tend to be pretty much vertical or overhung, reducing the risk of a lead fall as long as you are above the second bolt. It may seem counter-intuitive that overhung routes are less dangerous but with proper rope handling the risk in falling is from hitting things on the way down and not so much from hitting the ground. An overhung route has nothing to hit, leaving you hanging in space if you fall.

The three routes listed are all on the Main Wall and are the easiest to be found there. We also did Mickey Goes To Vegas over on the nearby Casino Cliffs at 5.9. I led these four and on-sighted them all. In fact, this was my first experience leading at 5.10. It's true that it is sport climbing and Jack's has a reputation for soft grading, but I'll take it! We spent the rest of the time burning ourselves out on nearby 5.11s that we top roped from anchors we could reach from the easier routes.

- Antoninus Pius

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