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Cottonwood Lakes New Army Pass Trail - 4 members in 6 triplogs have rated this an average 4 ( 1 to 5 best )
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Aug 03 2025
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 Guides 25
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40 male
 Joined Mar 01 2018
 Chandler, AZ
Mount Langley 14032Sierra Nevada, CA
Sierra Nevada, CA
Hiking avatar Aug 03 2025
John10sTriplogs 346
Hiking27.14 Miles 6,916 AEG
Hiking27.14 Miles   10 Hrs   22 Mns   2.89 mph
6,916 ft AEG      58 Mns Break
 
1st trip
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Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
The Mt. Whitney hike on Saturday went well and I was done early, so I decided to try for a weekend 14'er doubleheader and go for Mt. Langley on Sunday. The drive from Lone Pine to Cottonwood Lakes Trailhead took ~40 minutes. The parking lot was packed despite an early start, and I was on the trail just after 3AM. The early miles were flat, easy, and desolate--I went hours without seeing anyone and occasionally paused and turned off the flashlight to enjoy the stars.

The trail crosses Cottonwood Creek a few times in the early miles, and it was still dark as I passed Cottonwood Lakes #1 and #2 and just barely lightening as I passed through the big boulder field southwest of the lakes. I didn't realize it at the time, but in the half-dark, I missed a subtle turn and stayed on the east side of Long Lake, which has a fairly obvious use trail from backpackers, but that died out quickly. I had to push through some brush and circled around the north side and past a campsite, but still hadn't picked up the trail.

I planned to filter water at High Lake since that was the last water source before Langley, so I continued off-trail in that direction until I reached the lake. I finally saw a few other people and topped off my water as the sun lit up New Army Pass. From there, I picked up the (obvious) trail and started up toward the pass, which looked like a long climb from the bottom but wasn't as bad as it looked thanks to the switchbacks, and the view of the lakes was great.

Langley came into view from New Army Pass, and the trail descended a few hundred feet on the way down to Old Army Pass. I saw a few marmots along that stretch, and Old Army provided great views of Cottonwood Lakes #4 and #5. Hiking up Old Army Pass would've been a shorter route, but I'd read the trail isn't maintained, it stays snowy later in the season, and it can be sketchy depending on the conditions.

From the pass, the climb resumed and became much steeper over the last mile and a half to the peak. The tread turns to looser sand closer to Langley, and there's a sign asking people not to build or knock down the established (giant) cairns to try to keep hikers on a single route. The cairns seemed mostly unnecessary at first--the trail was easy to follow, just steep. After clearing a ridge and getting a better look at the true high point, the route became more ambiguous and the cairns more sparse.

One particularly rocky area required a short class-three scramble, and any semblance of a single trail disappeared over the last ~3/4 mile. There were footprints in the sand all over, so I tried to spot the next cairn high up on the ridge and chose the path of least resistance/best footing to get there. That section felt especially steep with the elevation closing in on 14,000'. The high point finally came into view and the grade eased up a bit, and I reached the summit just after 8:30AM (again, could've slept in ](*,) ). I had the peak to myself, and it was cool to stand on Langley, looking north at Mt. Whitney when I'd been standing on Whitney looking at Langley exactly 24 hours before.

[ youtube video ]

There were three ammo/register boxes on top, and signed and sat down in the shelter of the rocks to get out of the wind while I ate a snack and enjoyed the views. With a long hike out still ahead, I didn't spend too long up there before I started down. I passed three separate people coming up the steepest part, and they all looked understandably miserable...I got a lot of silence and one mumbled "hello" when I said hi as we passed :lol:.

Needless to say, going down was much, much easier. The route-finding was still a little challenging near the top, but after the scramble, it was easier to half-jog down some sections of trail rather than trying to slow down. Back at New Army Pass, the switchbacks were empty as I descended, and I stopped again at High Lake to refill water and took a longer break there

[ youtube video ] .

When I got going again, I stayed on the trail this time, following the west shore of Long Lake. I eventually spotted where I'd missed the turn in the morning near a tiny sign, and everything beyond Long Lake was essentially new territory, seeing it in the light for the first time--it was nice to get a good look at the boulder field and the two Cottonwood Lakes. I was heading for an early finish, so I added a few more miles with an out-and-back at the Cottonwood Lakes intersection. I didn't get to see any new lakes, just a different vantagepoint of Cottonwood Lake #1, but it was a nice area.

I eventually returned to the main trail and finished off the last few miles, passing some Forest Service workers doing trail maintenance along the way, and I was back at the trailhead a little before 2PM. This was another fun, scenic, and challenging hike with perfect weather, I'm glad the doubleheader worked out. On the drive back to Lone Pine, I stopped at one of the scenic overlooks above the remains of Owens Lake.
  2 archives
Jun 02 2018
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 Guides 9
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 Triplogs 118

35 male
 Joined Mar 06 2016
 Salt River Valle
Cottonwood Lakes New Army Pass TrailSierra Nevada, CA
Sierra Nevada, CA
Backpack avatar Jun 02 2018
arizona_waterTriplogs 118
Backpack22.98 Miles 3,760 AEG
Backpack22.98 Miles2 Days         
3,760 ft AEG
 
1st trip
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My sister and her boyfriend wanted to come visit us in Phoenix. I reminded them that they were trying to visit Phoenix in summer. So we negotiated on a location that would be somewhat equidistant between southern Oregon and Phoenix. All that to say, we decided on an over-nighter in the Cottonwood Lakes Basin of Inyo National Forest.

Friday, June 1
We left Phoenix at 2:30pm and arrived at the walk-in campground at 10:30pm. Not bad! The drive went by super fast. We talked about the route, and after listening to other backpackers, decided against our original plan. I had hoped to stay at Lake 5 and ascend up the Old Army Pass route, where we would connect with the Langley trail and summit the peak as a day hike. Of course, none of my plans ever seem to come to fruition. But this is often for the best.

We heard from some backpackers that Old Army Pass was impassable, even with ice axe and traction devices. Plan B! Camp at long lake and check out New Army Pass area.

Saturday, June 2
We were on the trail early and soaking in the sequoia and white volcanic sand views. Langley came into view at mile 5. This spot near Lake One is beautiful. Several minutes later, Melody began to feel sever pains in her foot. We thought it was her new shoes, but regardless, we soon realized that this might prevent the group from summitting Langley on Sunday.

We set up camp on the northwest side of long lake and slowly made our way up to High Lake. We soaked our feet and boldered around some rocks near the lake. Returning to camp, I noticed another group had built a fire, violating the many signs we had passed on the trail that clearly prohibited fires.

Sunday, June 3
We went up to New Army Pass. Melody's foot was feeling a lot better, but we didn't push on towards Langley. While the group took a break at New Army, I headed down to Old Army Pass. I wanted to see Lake Five from above and check out the snow conditions. The reports were correct. There's no way I would feel comfortable climbing up this route, even with mountaineering equipment. The slab of snow was just too precarious and steep. It reminded me of something I used to ice climb when I lived on the east coast. I also noticed that Old Army Pass is minimally signed. In fact, the NPS sign doesn't title the pass. It just mentions the Big Horn Sheep.

The hike back was uneventful, but we circled around through the South Fork of Cottonwood Creek to make things interesting. This trail is not in great condition, and a little difficult to find at times. It was nice to have the change of pace, but it became clear that the FS is decommissioning this route. From the main trail, there were logs rolled across the intersection with South Fork Trail.
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Aug 04 2017
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female
 Joined Jun 06 2016
 Phoenix. AZ
Cottonwood Lakes New Army Pass TrailSierra Nevada, CA
Sierra Nevada, CA
Hiking avatar Aug 04 2017
amy1300Triplogs 27
Hiking10.00 Miles 1,300 AEG
Hiking10.00 Miles
1,300 ft AEG18 LBS Pack
 no routes
1st trip
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This was Day 3 of a trip that started on Cottonwood Lakes Trail, on August 2. Four members of our group hiked from our camp at "Home Lake" to the east, then south, then west, around Cottonwood Lake 1. Once we were headed west, we were on our way to New Army Pass. This was quite a day hike! Challenging and gorgeous. My Tom Harrison map of "Mount Whitney High Country" does not show trees at the west end of Long Lake, but the tree cover is there. In fact, on the trail to the pass we ran into a group of 15 people that had camped at Long Lake the night before the hike! That's where I'd camp if I wanted to bag Langley or Cirque from New Army Pass. (From where we'd camped it was too far, to do that as a day hike.) No route-finding challenges, but there was a snow & ice bank covering the highest part of the trail, so we had to do about a 15' class 3 climb to get on top of the pass. All over the steepest part of the route, where the switchbacks are, there were purple, bushy wildflowers clinging to the rock ledges we passed - sweet! EDIT: These might have been Davidson's penstemon (Penstemon davidsonii). At the end of the day we had golden trout for dinner, which Bruce had caught during the day while we hiked. Yum!
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Moderate
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"Sunshine on my shoulders makes me happy . . ." -- John Denver :D
  3 archives
Aug 31 2015
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 Guides 59
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male
 Joined Jan 01 2023
 Arizona
Cottonwood Lakes TrailSierra Nevada, CA
Sierra Nevada, CA
Backpack avatar Aug 31 2015
pseudalpineTriplogs 1,290
Backpack6.17 Miles 1,276 AEG
Backpack6.17 Miles
1,276 ft AEG
 no routes
1st trip
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Day 1: Cottonwood Lakes TR to Long Lake.
 Named place
 Named place [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Long Lake
  2 archives
Jul 23 2015
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 Guides 6
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male
 Joined Mar 12 2004
 Scottsdale, AZ
JMT - Onion Valley to Horseshoe Meadow, CA 
JMT - Onion Valley to Horseshoe Meadow, CA
 
Backpack avatar Jul 23 2015
John9LTriplogs 1,647
Backpack68.12 Miles 15,858 AEG
Backpack68.12 Miles5 Days         
15,858 ft AEG
 
1st trip
The John Muir Trail is finally complete! This was one of the hardest & most satisfying accomplishments of my life! The following is a day by day triplog of the southern section of trail followed by my final thoughts.

7-23-2015 - 8.8 miles, 2,691 AEG - Onion Valley to Bubbs Creek
After spending the night in a hotel in Barstow we drove to Lone Pine and picked up our permits and then drove up to Horseshoe Meadow where we were to meet our shuttle driver at 11am. To make a long story short he was over two hours late! He ultimately got us to Onion Valley and we started hiking around 2:40pm which was much later than originally planned.

The hike up to Kearsarge Pass took a lot of effort. We had no time to acclimate ahead of time and my stomach was upset after the long shuttle ride. We hiked up the trail at a steady pace and took several breaks and ultimately reached the pass. The weather was cool and pleasant with overcast but little chance of rain. From Kearsarge Pass we quickly dropped down and connected onto the John Muir Trail above Bubbs Creek. We hiked southbound and selected a campsite in Vidette Meadow (9,600 ft) that included a fire ring and a bear locker. We had a fire and enjoyed dinner and then turned in for the night. I slept poorly that night. I assumed it was from the elevation. I'll have a hard time sleeping the next two nights as well.

7-24-2015 - 13.2 miles, 3,768 AEG - Bubbs Creek to Tyndall Creek
We started hiking around 8:30am and knew we were in for a big day. We had to cross Forester Pass at 13,200 ft. The trail is in great condition and made steady progress up hill. We took our time and enjoyed the views along the way. It's so beautiful here we caught ourselves oohing and awing! We also chatted it up with a few other backpackers and met a couple from Mesa and a solo hiker from Tucson.

We continued the hike as we neared Forester Pass. You can't see it until you're about a mile below. The final stretch to the pass was a real grind especially from my lack of sleep. We took a break at the top and talked to more hikers. I've always enjoyed the camaraderie along the JMT. After our break we made the steep descent down the south side. The trail eventually leveled off and we cruised the next few miles to Tyndall Creek where we selected a site next to a small stream that included another bear locker nearby. Tonight we'll be camping at 11,000 ft so no fires. We both turned in around 9am. I had another night of poor sleep due to the elevation.

7-25-2015 - 11 miles, 2,223 AEG - Tyndall Creek to Guitar Lake
We have a relatively mild day planned. We took our time getting ready in the morning and hit the trail somewhat late for us. The going was fairly easy as we climbed to Bighorn Plateau. This is another sweet area with epic views! We caught a few glimpses of Mount Whitney and it looked intimidating and far away.

We continued hiking and saw several other groups. Some of them we saw the day before. Before long we arrived at Crabtree Meadow and headed east towards Mount Whitney. We took a break near FOTG's campsite where we ate lunch and filtered water. We were going to camp here but it was early in the day so we continued an additional two miles to Guitar Lake. This put us closer to Whitney and at a higher elevation of 11,500 ft. The negative is we're above tree line so no shade. We both turned in fairly early. Our plan was to day hike Mount Whitney starting at 6:30am the following morning. I had another night of lack of sleep. The summit was going to be tough!

7-26-2015 - 19.1 miles, 4,067 AEG - Guitar Lake to Rock Creek with Mount Whitney
I slogged out of my tent a little before 6am and felt crummy from not sleeping. I know it's the elevation. We both organized our day pack and started hiking around 6:15am. The skies were clear and it was chilly. I wore a mid layer and a beanie. I wish I had gloves.

We made steady progress as we hiked up the trail. Our day packs felt so light it was like hiking with nothing. This made a big difference as we ascended towards Trails Crest at 13,500 ft. We much effort we reached the pass. From there we had 1.9 miles and 1,000 ft of gain. Our pace was slow but consistent and we caught glimpses of the summit. It looked so far away as it teased us. My journey here has taken over two years and my goal was in sight. I had to exit the trail early the past two years due to injury. There is no way I'm turning around even though I feel crummy. I continued on and made the final push to the summit. Suddenly the summit hut was right in front of me and I knew I finally completed my journey! My eyes swelled and tears of joy ran down my face. I was elated to have finally completed the John Muir Trail! I composed myself and met Chumley on the summit. He greeted me with a handshake and congratulations. I was a bit groggy from lack of sleep and the elevation of 14,500 ft. We enjoyed the views, took pics and signed the register. After about 30 minutes we started our return to Guitar Lake. We flew down the trail and were back to camp around noon.

We both tried to nap but it didn't go well. The sun was beating down on us and it was way too hot to sleep. We decided to pack up and head back to Crabtree where we would be leaving the JMT and heading south on the PCT for a few miles. We took a break at the junction and then continued south. We crossed Goyut Pass and then dropped down to Rock Creek where we selected a wonderful campsite next to a creek. We had another bear locker and were camping at 9,600 ft so we could have a fire.

We got camp set up and started our fire. A few minutes later we were visited by the ranger. She was really nice and we chatted for a few minutes. She asked to see our permit just before heading out. I'm honestly glad to have my permit checked. Afterward we ate dinner and turned in around 9pm. I'm in for a good nights rest. The lower elevation helped a lot!

7-27-2015 - 16 miles, 2,888 AEG - Rock Creek to Horseshoe Meadow
We discussed our options and decided to hike all the way out back to the jeep. We had about 16 miles and had to go over New Army Pass. The first few miles had a mild gain as we climbed out of Rock Creek and left the PCT and continued east for the pass. We passed a meadow with a stunning view of Mount Langley and Cirque Peak. The Sierras are just breathtaking and never get old!

The climb over New Army Pass took a lot of work! We talked about going over Army Pass but I opted to take New Army Pass because that's the route I had loaded. The climb was a real grind but was worth it! The views are stunning of Cottonwood Lakes! After our break we made the very steep descent down New Army Pass. The trail eventually levels off as you pass High Lake then Long Lake then Cottonwood Lakes 2 and then 1. The last few miles to the jeep were exhausting and thankfully downhill for the most part.

We arrived to the jeep around 4pm and I was so happy taking off my backpack. I then go to open the jeep and find the battery is dead. I was so exhausted I wanted to freak out! Chumley kept his cool and asked some campers for a jump. It took a few minutes but ultimately we got the jeep started and were fine thereafter. We stopped in Lone Pine for Mexican food and then returned to Phoenix arriving home a little after 1am. The trip was over what an experience!


Final Notes
I took way too much food on all three of my treks. I could have saved several pounds of weight.

Hiking the trail solo on my first trek was nice but I enjoyed having company on my next two trips. Having someone along for the ride helped keep things fun and fresh. It also helped on all the climbing up difficult passes.

The best way to hike the JMT is to just wing it. Don't come up with a specific itinerary. Try to figure out how many miles you need to average each day and then go for it. Ideally camp low and cross the passes in the morning. Line yourself up each day.

The JMT is a picturesque place and has a romantic appeal to many people. It's important to realize you are going to work your pumpkin off on this trek! The passes are no joke and they keep coming at you. There is no way to cheat this trail. You earn every mile and every foot of elevation gain.

I owe thanks to many people on this. Thanks to Keepmoving for originally inspiring me to complete this based on his triplog from August 2012. [ photoset ] . He also answered several PMs with my numerous questions about the trek. Thanks to BiFrost for going with me last year. I'm sorry Karl you didn't join me this year. This trek came together the last few weeks. Thanks to FOTG for answering questions on the south side of the trail. You're triplog also inspired me [ photoset ] . It was comforting knowing we were following your footsteps. Special thanks to Chumley. He shuttled me two years ago on my initial trek. He also completed the final stretch and greeted me on the summit with a congratulations! It was a special moment for me and I'm glad you were there to share the experience with.

Completing the John Muir Trail is the highlight of my life! I faced much adversity after leaving the trail injured the two previous summers. I persevered and ultimately completed it! Now I need to pick my next obsession.
 Flora
 Flora [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Foxtail Pine
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  2 archives
Jul 23 2015
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 Guides 94
 Routes 840
 Photos 22,055
 Triplogs 1,993

52 male
 Joined Sep 18 2002
 Tempe, AZ
Onion Valley to Horseshoe Meadow, CA 
Onion Valley to Horseshoe Meadow, CA
 
Backpack avatar Jul 23 2015
chumleyTriplogs 1,993
Backpack71.45 Miles 16,439 AEG
Backpack71.45 Miles5 Days         
16,439 ft AEG37 LBS Pack
 
1st trip
About two weeks ago, 9L told me that by way of cancellation he had scored a last minute permit to finish his quest to complete the JMT via Onion Valley. I am fortunate enough to have a job with enough flexibility that planning a weeklong vacation only a week ahead of time isn't that big of a deal. With no other "major" hikes planned for the summer, I decided to take him up on the offer to join him on this trip in the Sierra -- a destination that is really tough for me to say no to.

Despite the excitement and anticipation, I was somewhat apprehensive about this trip. John had estimated about 65 miles and set aside 6 days, but wanted to finish in 4 or 5. All of those numbers are way out of my comfort zone. But I got all my gear together and did my best to keep my pack weight down and plan meals smartly.

It all turned out ok in the end. The 36 miles in the last 2 days wore on me and isn't something I would choose to repeat on purpose. I prefer some more downtime between destinations rather than just getting from point a to point b, sleep, repeat. An extra day in there would have helped me a lot.

All I can say is I have newfound appreciation for those who have done the JMT or similar through hikes. Especially Dave1 and Fotg who plowed through this in 8 and 10 days respectively. You have my utmost respect. :worthy:

Completing a hike like the JMT is not something I see myself ever doing. But I am truly impressed by those who make it a part of their life accomplishments, and I was honored to share a paltry few of those miles and stand atop Mt. Whitney and congratulate John for his personal feat. Bravo my friend. Bravo! : app :

OVERVIEW
Day 1: Onion Valley to Vidette Meadow
8.8 miles / 2,692 aeg / 4h2m / 23m stopped (2.18 overall / 2.41 moving)
Stunning scenery. Great weather. I would love to come back to this area again.

Day 2a: Vidette Meadow to Tyndall Frog Tanks
13.2 miles / 3,768 aeg / 7h38m / 1h43m stopped (1.73 overall / 2.23 moving)
Forester pass is a grind. But a fantastic area with great views in all directions.

Day 2b: Camp Wander
2.9 miles / 426 aeg / 1h28m (1.98 overall)
Happy to have no pack on my back. Nice wander down Tyndall Creek to the ranger station. Nobody home.

Day 3: Tyndall Frog Tanks to Guitar Lake
11.0 miles / 2,223 aeg / 5h26m / 1h 6m stopped (2.02 overall / 2.56 moving)
Hiked with Heather, a nice girl finishing her solo through-hike who convinced us to camp at Guitar Lake.

Day 4a: Whitney Summit from Guitar Lake
9.5 miles / 3,166 aeg / 5h18m / 55m stopped (1.79 overall / 2.17 moving)
Guitar Lake is great place to make summiting Whitney a more reasonable endeavor. Slow but steady and you're there in no time!

Day 4b: Guitar Lake to Rock Creek
9.9 miles / 1,102 aeg / 4h9m / 25m stopped (2.37 overall / 2.65 moving)
This was a grind after Whitney in the morning. Foxtail pines were the only real highlight on this otherwise hot and dry stretch of trail.

Day 5: Rock Creek to Horseshoe Meadow
16.2 miles / 3,046 aeg / 7h15m / 51m stopped (2.23 overall / 2.53 moving)
This was quite simply a death march with the car as the goal. Beautiful scenery though. Army Pass was tough and the final 8 miles down dragged on and on. The cooler still had ice in it and the beer was delicious!

Despite the heavy stats, I really enjoyed this trip and love spending time in this area. The Sierra truly are a wonderful range and I will be back to explore more. Thanks John for doing all the planning so all I had to do was show up and put one foot in front of the other! Another great trip that I'll always remember :)
 Flora
 Flora [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Foxtail Pine
 Meteorology
 Meteorology [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Ice

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Crabtree Creek Medium flow Medium flow
Plenty of water for filtering

dry Guyot Creek Dry Dry
Unexpectedly dry at trail crossing at 10,400. Ranger's note on bear locker at Rock Creek advises against using it as a reliable source for water - dated 2015. That said, there were some stagnant pools that could be filtered if absolutely needed.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Perrin Creek Medium flow Medium flow
Perrin drains into Rock Creek at a nice meadow area with ample camping opportunities and good clean water flow.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max South Fork Cottonwood Creek Medium flow Medium flow
Healthy flow on Cottonwood Creek along the entire length of trail
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I'm not sure what my spirit animal is, but I'm confident it has rabies.
 
average hiking speed 2.89 mph

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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