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| | | W Trek Torres del Paine NP Chile, WW | | | |
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W Trek Torres del Paine NP Chile, WW
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| Backpack | 74.09 Miles |
12,396 AEG |
| | Backpack | 74.09 Miles | 5 Days 22 Hrs 36 Mns | | |
| 12,396 ft AEG | | | | |
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| no partners | | The W Trek is a hut-to-hut backpacking trip in the Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia. The W Trek, or its longer version (the O Trek), is frequently mentioned in lists of the world's most iconic backpacking trips. And for good reason.
Patagonia--a somewhat vaguely defined area that covers the southern parts of both Chile and Argentina is simply amazing. Glaciers, rugged peaks and fjords, crystal blue alpine lakes, and totally unpredictable weather--including a regular dose of rain/snow/and hurricane-force wind gusts year round--are just some of what attracts outdoor enthusiasts to this austere area.
It's been on my wish list for some time, and we finally locked in permits and travel plans to make it happen.
It's called the W trek because the hiking route itself forms the shape of a "W." The longer "O" trek encompasses the W and adds on the more remote northern section of the route, making an "O" shape.
We considered doing the O, but it would have involved more logistics, and we also wanted to spend some time in Argentinian Patagonia, so we settled on the W trek, which is typically a 5-day, 4-night adventure.
The trek can be hiked east to west (more common) or, as we did it, west to east.
It can be backpacked in more traditional fashion--self-supported with food, tents, etc. OR (as we did it) in bougie, hut-to-hut fashion with full-board (all meals) available at refugios along the way, including hot showers. In either case, advance reservations at the refugios/campsites are imperative and generally are booked months in advance during the busy (austral summer) season.
Booking full board and staying at refugios made the international travel logistics much easier (we didn't have to pack sleeping bags, tents, camp food, stove, etc.). Our "backpacks" consisted of essentially day packs with some extra clothes. So, it was definitely backpacking "light." Purists may object, but I'm of the opinion that the outdoors can be appreciated in a large variety of ways. After our remote backpacking trip in the fall on the GC Royal Arch route via Point Huitzul, my wife was a big fan of the bougie backpacking option in Patagonia! 
On to the hike ....
Day 1: Grey Glacier Catamaran to Refugio Grey
Our permit contemplated taking a boat from Pudeto on Lake Pehoe to Paine Grande and then hiking up to Refugio Grey to spend the night, then hiking back to Paine Grande for a our second night. But instead of repeating the same trail, we looked for another option--and found one. The Lago Grey Hotel offers a catamaran tour of the Grey Glacier that starts from near the Hotel and includes a drop off on the beach, a 10-15 minute walk from Grey Refugio. The catamaran runs three tours a day--the first two make a drop off at the Refugio beach first, then go on to tour the glacier; but the third trip tours the glacier first, then makes a stop a the refugio beach. So, we signed up for the third trip to include the glacier tour.
Our day started out in Puerto Natales, from which we took a 4.5 hour bus ride to and through TDP to the last stop at Lago Grey Hotel, arriving around 11:30 am. Since we were on the third tour, which didn't leave until 4 pm, we had time to spare. So, we naturally did another hike--up to nearby Ferrier Point (see separate triplog), where we experienced some true Patagonian wind that literally threatened to blow us off the mountain top!
We checked in for our catamaran at 3pm, when they confirmed that the tour would proceed (it can be cancelled due to weather), and then hiked 1.25 miles from the hotel along the shore of Lago Grey to the beach where the catamaran would pick us up. Unlike some of the other lakes in the park, Lago Grey is aptly named to reflect the grey color of its water, which is constantly churning with glacial till and stands in contrast to the turquoise/blue waters of other lakes in the park. The walk is easy and, on clear days, offers nice views of the peaks in the park around which the W trek navigates.
We boarded the boat, which included a couple of other backpackers, but was otherwise filled with folks just there for the glacier tour. It was windy and cold out on deck, but the relatively up-close views of the glacier were nice. (Unfortunately, I forgot to start my GPS when we left the beach, which explains the gap in my route.)
After the tour, we disembarked on the beach and hiked up the trail to the refugio, where we checked in for our reserved camping spot, consisting of a nice, two-person tent, sleeping bags, pads, and pillows. We were surprised to learn that hot showers were included with our stay. Food at the refugio was great and plentiful.
We hit the hay early and slept well in the tent.
Day 2: Grey Refugio to Paine Grande Refugio
After breakfast at the Refugio, we packed up camp and stored our backpacks, and then began hiking in the opposite direction of our destination on the day, up the trail and across two of the suspension bridges that are part of the O trek. Past the second bridges is a lovely lookout over Grey Glacier. The wind was howling, so after some photos, we headed back.
Picking up our packs at the Refugio and enjoying a lunch break on the refugio's adirondack chairs, we continued on towards Paine Grande. Nice views for most of the route along Lago Grey, with some glacier fed waterfalls and creeks coming in from the opposite side of the trail.
We arrived at Paine Grande mid afternoon and checked in at the Refugio, where we would stay the night in bunkbeds in a shared room with 2 other couples. We hit the hot showers and enjoyed hanging out in the shared "living area," warmed by a wood-burning stove.
After relaxing a bit, we checked out the park visitors center next door and chatted with the rangers and then took a short hike around the bay of Lago Pehoe, and were treated to some of the most impressive views of the turquoise lake and TDP mountains, bathed in afternoon sunlight.
The two other couples in our room were from Israel and Australia. They were nice, but it's always a little awkward sleeping in a shared bunk room, especially when you need to get up during the night. We survived and slept relatively well, and were glad to be inside, as the wind was howling overnight!
Day 3: Paine Grande to Cuernos Refugio via the French Valley
This was our longest day (15+ miles), and took us through the French Valley, which many tout as the most beautiful portion of the W trek. Unfortunately, it was also our turn to experience some of the vaunted, crazy Patagonian weather. We started out with full rain gear--shells and rain pants, and kept them on all day. In the higher elevations, we experienced snow, and wind blowing the rain/sleet sideways. We persevered, but the views were limited as the cloud level was low.
That said, the hiking was still beautiful and we were able to see the mountainside glaciers and many waterfalls springing from their base, as well as views back down to the blue lakes below. The final section of the hike included a walk along the beach of Lago Nordenskjold, which was also quite beautiful and punctuated by a couple of nice rainbows.
We were happy to arrive at the Cuernos Refugio, where our most luxurious accommodations were--a private cabin with rooftop windows framing the Cuernos peaks and our own wood-burning stove. Next door was a waterfall along a glacier-fed drainage. Dinner was lovely; a hot shower and comfortable bed were nice, and the chance to dry out refreshed our spirits.
Day 4: Cuernos to Chileno Refugio + hike up to Base Torres
Overnight, the weather shifted favorably. I got up once in the middle of the night to a full moon over the Cuernos, and the morning sun on the mountains painted a lovely picture.
Following breakfast, we headed out to our final stop on the trek--the Chileno campground/refugio. Chileno is a coveted location, as it is only a 3 mile hike from there to the famous "Torres" (towers)--the Dolomite-like peaks from which the national park derives its name.
Here, our accommodations were essentially a spacious rooftop tent on stilts that gave off the vibe of some Star Wars planet community.
As we arrived by 2 pm and the day was clear and beautiful, we decided to drop our gear and head on up to the towers. Although only 3 miles further, it's a steep climb to get to them--particularly the last mile or so. They delivered in terms of views, and we imbibed freely, before returning to camp/showers/dinner.
Day 5: Chileno to Amarga Entrance + another sunrise hike up to Base Torres.
One of the iconic views on the W is catching the Torres at sunrise. Their east-facing orientation light up like fire with a good, clear sunrise--which is just what the forecast projected.
My wife was content with one trip the Torres, but I decided to do the pre-dawn trek and headed up around 5:30 am. Those not staying at Chileno, but trekking from the Central camp/refugio had twice the distance and elevation to cover and would need to be up and hiking around 2-3 am.
Arrived at Base Torres around 6:30 and found a good spot to watch the fireworks. It was clear and chilly but not windy (thankfully), as I waited about an hour for the sun to make its appearance.
The show did not disappoint, and this was definitely a highlight of the trip!
After taking an embarrassing number photos and videos, and just enjoying the sheer awe of the view, I made the return trip to Chileno, where we packed up and made the mostly downhill trek to the Central camping area and Welcome Center. We ate lunch and relaxed a bit.
From there, hikers take a shuttle to the park entrance, some 3 miles further. But the shuttle wasn't scheduled to come for a few hours and there was a trail to the entrance, so after resting, we decided just to hike it.
That portion of the hike was blase, compare to the rest of the trek, looking a lot more like the high scrub desert of Utah than the mountainous/glacier-fed lake paradise we were leaving behind, but it was nice to stretch the legs a bit more, and beat hanging around at the welcome center (mostly a gift shop) for several hours.
And, just like that, the trek was over. A magical trip of a lifetime. Highly recommend. Unlike other backpacking trips, where solitude is a prime factor, this trip involves a unique shared purpose an community/camaraderie with fellow hikers, and we really enjoyed the social aspect of the hike--meeting many hikers from all parts of the world and crossing paths with several of them multiple times while trekking. |
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Route Editor
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Route 
We continued up, and the weather continued to be chilly, on and off light rain, and very windy. We did see some great rainbows as a result, both on the trail and earlier at the hostel.
The trail comes out of the forest, and there is a junction to head down to some bathrooms and the ranger station. There are also some signs about the formation of the Towers and climbing routes. This point marks the start of the 1 km up hill section leading to the mirador. It is mostly open and very rocky. It is not super difficult really, and the route is easy to follow. Still not many people around. As you gain elevation, the trail becomes more exposed and very windy.
